Cosmetic improvement ideas for a plastic tenders

Dullcote.

Well that sound simple enough. Thanks

When it dries will it be sticky ? Or when handling it will make those permanent finger print mark impressions or anything ?

You could add some handrails.  I like to use the wire handles from Chinese food containers, they keep their shape pretty well and the size seems about right.  Though I'm usually using them to replace missing ones on postwar engines/tenders, so the eyelets are usually there to slide them through

And here I thought using the chopsticks for wood was all that was in that bag.

Dull coat is a paint (I'm pretty sure, but have never actually used it).

 I think it may be water based, & can be removed with water, but don't quote me on that either.

  A very "flat" clear coat is sometimes needed. Its just more likely you'd be used to seeing clear on shelves in satin, semi-gloss, or gloss. You can get flat clear coats.   

I assume you mean the Railking 2-8-0.  No doubt Mike approved the plastic tender because in many cases versions of this loco are intended to be in a lot of RTR sets where price is a considerable issue.  Taking out detail, etc., is one what you get price down. This is among the most "price competitive" locos that MTH sells, and having bought two for grandkids, I find it difficult to complain - you get what you pay for. 

The plastic sheen on the tender does look bad.  Dullcoat will kill the plastic sheen as noted above.   But it is not guaranteed to match the patina of the cast metal loco.  You can end up with a dull flat tender that does not match the loco perfectly.  Although its more work, you might consider doing the loco, too, to get a more even match when done.  

Other ways to kill the sheen somewhat, more subtly and slowly, are to paint the thing with paint thinner or solvent and then wipe it off - one time barely dulls the plastic but several times of doing so  gradually wear it duller: you can control the look and may be able to match the loco more.  You can also use fine (#800 - #1000) wet-dry sandpaper on it.  This will dull the painted letters, too, and if you have a light touch, can look really good. 

Plastic tenders are easy to work, since you can cut and glue to plastic easily.  With a bit of work you can add details such as ladders, a little hardware, etc., even a rear running light, to add a bit more detail and realism to it.  

Are you saying the tender has been redesigned??? I have not seen a change in design since the loco first came out years ago. It's always been very simple as it was a starter loco.......all of mine have been bought for under $75.....so I was not expecting a brass level detail. If too glossy finish Tests dull coat will work well. 

My in progress conversion. Was a baseball loco and tender. 

I have a few of the Rail King 2-8-0 engines, and all of them are relatively plain. I plan the following mods to mimic the Long Island Rail Road's H10s Class:

> Backup light on the rear deck;

> Red marker lights on the rear deck;

> Real coal;

> Dog house behind the coal bunker for the switchman;

> Step boards;

> New ladder on the back of the tank;

> New paint in Long Island Rail Road livery.

There are many different finishes in clear coats. Nowhere is it written in stone that you must use, Dullcoat. Also, you can find many photos of prototypes to use as guides to go by, when adding trim. 

Cosmetic improvements to consider:

Add a ladder to the rear of the tender so the fireman can climb up to put in the water.

Add tool tray under one side.

Add a "push pole" to the other side.

Add some chains w/loop on one end & a hook on the other.

I have used paper clips to make handrails, cut the headlight off of junk boiler fronts to make back up lights on slope backs. Ladders from tank cars as well.

Dave,

You have good ideas. I use plastic or brass tubing to make a backup light. For the lens, I use clear plastic found in the packaging of new dress shirts.

a couple examples. I cut the headlights from two junk Berk boiler fronts. I still need to make the handrailing for the slope back.

I am aware that it is from an inexpensive R-t-R set. I have several set units and as mentioned, to date I found that they were made quite nice for what they are. However my disappointment & what I find odd that Mike approved was in regards to eliminating what ever they did in the step to make the dull finish as with previous issues. An earlier issue Pennsylvania 2-8-0 was not done like this. Nor was any of the 2-6-0 versions issued in the past. Any that I have ever came across has always had a dull finish. 

 This one lacking such with this shinny fresh out of the mold extruder finish just looks horrible and shows all of the imperfections. Truly making this unit look like a cheap version while in the past it really wasn't all that cheap looking in my opinion. Just lacking the  detail.  

Yes,  Lee that was what I was thinking, that I may have to do the engine as well. Even  though it looks good. But I am also wondering that since it already has a more normal looking dull finish to it that it still may not match in another way.

I like the handrail addition ideas. Guess that is one advantage to being plastic. Easy enough to drill through. Also like the idea about the Chinese food carry out container handles. However unfortunately I don't really get to do that all that often. So I guess I will have to go the paper clip route. Though length and straightness may be somewhat of an issue with this particular application.

Oh, the polar opposite. Thanks Balshis.

Lacquer is great, but volatile. Light coats on plastic.

  Only overcoat more lacquer on lacquer, primer, or strong, well cured enamels with very light coats. Thin once cured, good for detail. Coats don't need to be as "wet", especially with flats, and imperfections sand out, and repair easily.

 I thought it might have been another weathering staple that was water based. I just remembered "too much? wash it off" was in the same article.

  I normally use a bottle of dirty brush cleaner as a wash if things are too bright.(insert caveman noise here)     

By the way, what is the best glue to use in these applications. 

5 minute epoxy for dissimilar  materials. (plastic to metal etc)

Thanks, Is this one acceptable ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Multib...;hash=item566df76a2e

Also is this what I should use to hold the rails in place on the inside of the shell ?

I like JB Weld as it dries to a near exact match for "post war tender black".

 I have one junker Lionel Scout tender on a wood frame. A full corner near 2" square inches is unpainted JB Weld. You cant tell until its in you hands.

 Cotter pins make decent rail mounts if short enough. A small washer, and you have a cheap stanchion & escutcheon. Brass tube can cover the cotter pin split on uprights. 

   Paper clips might be too thick if your fussy. I have a roll of .035 stainless packaging wire, but it may be a bit thin, & has to be straightened. My engine handrails are .040. But if you'd like a few feet of .035, shoot me an address by email.

 It is stainless, nothing sticks well to it, so the ends need an "L" bend & must be imbedded in epoxy product. Notching can produce a decent hold too.

 Hobby shops, or even a good hardware store should have something you can use. Brass is common, but it might "require paint" to look right for you. (Personally I love the brass look. Ask the hobby shop for "music" or piano" wire. I was stopped from just leaving once by another customer, after asking for "wire stock" once. After going back to the counter & asking for music wire  the clerk said, "Oh I thought you wanted electric wire".  

 Oh, a welder, or good music/piano shop may have plain piano wire available in various gauges too. A tuner/repairman could be a scrap source. Bet a coffee, or Big Mac would get you a nice handful.    

Ahh, much better. 

The second coat was just applied and is drying.

Not sure what it looks like next to the engine, but since it already has a dull finish I am sure that it will be fine as is.

In regards to the tender itself, it made the world of a difference.

Thanks much.

I should add that in regards to purchasing the testors.  It certainly was not as easy. So much for the days that you could just go anywhere and it was offered. Or just go and expect it to be there. That said I wasted so much time doing so. I went to Walmart, Kmart, a hardware store and a hobby shop and neither place had it. I got frustrated and went home. Then got frustrated again and wasted even more to e looking online for who carries it near me. Finally found a place about twenty minutes away.

In all I wasted about three hours to finally have it in hand to apply. Unbelievable,  but true.   

It's times like these, when one really does start to think,"What happened to all of the Local Hobby Stores". IMHO

Happy Pappy, 

I know what you mean all to well.  I miss the days I didn't have to pay shipping and wait a week for supplies.  It's really frustrating when it arrives and isn't 'quite' what I wanted...

OP=Let's see pics when done!

I just this place

I always use Krylon Matte Finish spray, number 1311.  It dries in minutes and can be found at any hardware store or Walmart.  I also use Krylon Clear Gloss.

>>>>>>>So now that I now know the step that for what ever reason was not done at the factory. I can only shake my head in disappointment as to why that would be. 

Sorry but a simple dull coat sprayed over the abs plastic tender is going beyond a step that should have been dismissed. 

Surely this was an inexpensive step that should not of been avoided. A simple step that "makes it, or turns it into a plastic piece of junk.

A step that I would not want attached to any thing with my name on it. 

I can only think that MW would agree and would not either. So I could only hope that this was simply some sort of mishap in China.<<<<<<<

After

Looks a "little" less MPC-ish now!

A least you've found a supplier & learned a new trick.

Speaking of MPC, not a bad way to soften the "toy" look of some cheaper cars.

You didn't use it all yet right?