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I have 2 CW80's that I aquired early on in O guage from sets. They are only used for accessories. I use the throttle side of each to power lighted buildings and other accessories so I can set the correct voltage. At 14-15 volts down to zero the lights on the buildings pulsate/ flicker in kind of a strobe effect.

 

Raising the throttle higher than 15v reduces the pulsating, lowering makes it worse. However,I don't want to run my accessories at higher than recommended voltages for obvious reasons.

 

Whats the issue here? Should I unload the 2 CW 80s and use a GW180 in place. Will this anomaly occur with a GW 180 as well? I've also conssidered a 180w brick with a TPC unit.

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Some of the early CWs had defects. You could try hooking it to a 10 amp or more bridge rectifier.  Put the A and U to the AC terminals and put a 4700uf 35 volt capacitor across the + and - output for accessories and lights. . That should remove the flicker  and produce filtered DC 41% higher than the throttle voltage. Lights and many accessories will run on DC. Exceptions are vibrator motors such as the radar tower etc.

 

Dale H

Originally Posted by RickO:

I have 2 CW80's that I aquired early on in O guage from sets. They are only used for accessories. I use the throttle side of each to power lighted buildings and other accessories so I can set the correct voltage. At 14-15 volts down to zero the lights on the buildings pulsate/ flicker in kind of a strobe effect.

 

Raising the throttle higher than 15v reduces the pulsating, lowering makes it worse. However,I don't want to run my accessories at higher than recommended voltages for obvious reasons.

 

Whats the issue here? Should I unload the 2 CW 80s and use a GW180 in place. Will this anomaly occur with a GW 180 as well? I've also conssidered a 180w brick with a TPC unit.

First, check the code on the bottom. If it doesn't have a G in the code, the outputs may be reversed. Red was the common. I believe Lionel would still swap these for you.

 

Secondly, it may be useful to use the accessory outputs and set the voltage with the button presses. It don't think the "chopped sine wave voltage" is output for the accessory terminals. This is typically set at 12-14vac from the factory, so moving your connection there to test for pulse/flicker would be easy.

 

Finally, what Dale said. Light bulbs don't really care whether it's ac or dc, but dc voltage for the lamps would eliminate the ac pulse.

Last edited by Moonman

I've found it sort of curious. I guess that the level is stored for the acc output and the chip has to repeatedly read the level for the adj output. So I think the repeated readings have a little jitter from reading to reading. Maybe affected by a little 60 Hz noise from reading to reading whereas the stored value is what it is.

Can't the output of the micro processor be programmed differently for each pin out?  If so, the regulation my not be the same.  Doesn't the Track out put have a sort of momentum with throttle settings, where as the Accessory output may not have any sort of wave form modification.  Just meant to hold a given voltage.  G

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
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