I have collected several sets of passenger cars that are specific to a given railroad name. And, most are in the 9-12 car length size. Plus, I have some, although not nearly as much, freight rolling stock. I am planning to build a set of shelves (with ends to keep them from rolling off) on the walls of my media room, below the shelf tracks that I have. For those of you that have built shelves out of wood, especially 1" x 5" or so, have you cut grooves in the shelving material for the "wheel flange" of the wheels or made it wide enough to accommodate the entire wheel? Just curious what most folks are doing. I don't need to cut these dados deep, but wide enough to keep them from getting accidentally bumped off of the shelf. Any thoughts here? By the way, the shelves will be approximately 14' long for the cars and on a separate wall, I plan to put up different shelves for my locomotives. Thanks!
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Not sure what you mean by wide enough for the entire wheel. It would seem that the wheel would appear sunk into the shelf if the whole wheel was in the groove.
I cut the boards so that the flanges will fit in the grove. End stops? not sure how a nine car set would start rolling.
Well, I wasn't sure I was going to couple them together. It would make it easier to lift off of the shelf if they were not coupled. So, I just thought a 1" x 2" at each end would at least keep the last car or two from moving. My biggest concern is not people hitting it, but our dogs. This is in our media room. It's a dual track shelf layout about a foot from the ceiling. I am planning on putting the shelves on one of the "long" walls (room is 18' x 25'), but I already have artwork hanging and sconces on the walls. So, the shelves were going to be roughly 14' long to accommodate the cars. If one of our three labs brushes up against one, even in the middle, then, without some sort of end stops, I think they may go flying off of the end. They may come off the front anyway, but I am hoping that that does not happen. I think I will just run the boards across my table saw and cut a double 1/8" groove in each, wide enough for the flanges to drop into, but not wide or deep enough for the entire wheel to fit into. Just wondering how others solved this issue when longer trains were involved. Appreciate the responses.
Here is write up on my train display shelves showing details on routing grooves for train wheels.
Train Shelves - Economical, Wall Friendly and Moveable
Three wall, easy to build, economically, wall friendly and moveable train shelves were made in the 1980's and were installed in a hall ways and/or a spare bedrooms of three prior houses and the current house. Each shelve is made in two sections each to allow moving thru doors and up stairs. They also stand on the floor and are held to the wall by two 1" x 1" angles screwed into a wall stud per section, meaning only two small holes in the wall are required. The shelves are backed with 1/8" Masonite, with some strips of white felt glued to the back, to protect the wall. The shelves have router grooved surfaces to hold the train wheels and keep the cars and engines from rolling off. The design has one wider 1" x 6" wide shelve, one half way up and one wider 1" X 8" top shelf to allow display of wider accessories or other items in addition to the typical train cars and engines. Some of my shelves have track sections and are powered to allow lighting of train cars.
Construction is 1" x 4" straight pine #2 lumber with grooves routed in for train wheels. It is usually less expensive to buy 1x 4 x 8 ft long #2 common pine boards at Home Depot and pick through them to find straight boards. Knots are not that important to me as they can be filled in and painted over. I used 5 min epoxy glue(fingered on) to coat the knots to keep them from bleeding through the white paint which I chose to make the trains show out better. The length of the shelves can be any you like up to 8 ft with this type of shelve boards. I place the shelves with a 4 1/2 in open space between each shelve. Mine are 7 ft 2 in tall and have 16 shelves with the bottom one 3 1/2 off the floor (about the height of my baseboards). They are nailed together with two 2 1/2 inch finish nails per shelf each end and have 1/8 " Masonite, nailed with 3/4" roofing nails every 6 inches on each shelve, on the back to keep the shape square, keep the shelves from sagging and to keep from marking wall. Pieces of white felt are glued on the back of Masonite to keep from marking wall also.
I filled knot holes and nail holes with DAP Plastic Wood Latex Based Wood Filler (update- I now seal the knots with 5 min epoxy to better hide them when painting, too), Natural and primed the shelves and backing Masonite with Kilz primer probably oil based but would use latex now. I chose to paint the shelves glossy off white latex paint. I think the light color makes the train engines and cars show up better and makes the room brighter and more cheerful. I use a 3 in x 12 in piece of clear Saran Wrap on the shelf where an engines go to keep the white shelf clean of grease from the wheels.
View of one shelve shown below The 8 inch wide shelf is shown on top and one 6 inch wide shelf is in the middle with the picture framed pictures and milk car and cattle car accessories. There are some powered track to operate the accessories and operating cars on this shelf.
View below shows joint between two half's of shelves. , Holes were drilled in the ends of both side boards and two, 3 inch finish nails, with heads sawed off, were inserted in the holes to allow the two sections to be secured.
Notice the grooves for wheels routed with veining bit on all shelves, a 6 inch wide shelf is one half way up 16 shelves. Also note the picture shows the joint between the two shelve sections that are aligned with cut off finish nail to keep the sections secure.
Some 6 inch wide shelves allow display of extra accessories and figures.
Photo below shows powered track to allow lighting cars
Next picture shows shelf legs setting on floor, showing cut out for base board. Extra, a Boxcar Willie LP record.
Top shelf is 8 inch wide to hold other train items
Over all view of all 3 shelves which were moved to from the house to the new 2010 train/all purpose room over a new two car garage/shop.
The two large shelves on the left and right of the picture above were in the halls and spare bedroom of my present house for many years until the train room was built making the spouse very happy!
Notice in last picture I have added two more small shelves under two windows for more trains. One never has enough trains and thus shelves.Small shelf under window shown below.
All shelves are standing on floor and held to wall with 1in X 1in angle brackets screwed into studs. Shelves come apart to allow removal and moving to another room or house. Build once for life!
Some train storage on the shelve hints are below.
Post war locos with Magna-traction are put on a section of steel track to act as a "magnet keeper" and hopefully help save the magnets.
For engines with traction tires I keep them off the wood or track to protect against flat spots.
I also store all cars and trains with the couplings open to "save the springs".
I use a 3 in x 12 in piece of clear Saran Wrap on the white or light colored shelves where greased engines are stored
I do not know if any of this makes a difference but I feel better.
Update: May 2020 : A fourth shelf section was built and is the last section of trains shelves. I have noticed a couple of knots are showing as slight yellowish through on some of my three original 30 plus years old shelves. I have searched for a cure to hide sappy knots and some Kilz B-I-N shellac based primer is recommended but does not always work. I have purchased my boards at Home Depot and the choice of #2 cheap lumber is of a much lower quality than in days past and this lot had several knots on about one half of the boards. I have decided to not buy the expensive shellac based Kilz for this small job and have decided to use cheap Harbor Freight 5 minute clear epoxy glue, to seal the knots. I applied it thinly with my finger tip. We will see in a few years if it works at keeping the knots from showing thru.
I now have four larger sections plus two short sections under the windows, totaling 425 linear feet and built my last shelf section.
Picture below shows all train shelves, with new in May 2020 longer shelf section the on right
An excellent write-up and very impressive collection. My own collection is not nearly as extensive as I have only been back into this hobby a much shorter period of time (that and I have multiple other hobbies that require my attention and funds). But, I appreciate you taking the time to post this. It is definitely a big help.
One of the things I like about the Glen Snyder shelving is that it has rails sticking up so you can really see the wheel sets. I wonder if you could cut slots in the wood and put in strips of wood so that it would have "rails" to sit on. I've never seen it done though.
Wonder if Gargraves rails would work for this, they've got a flange sticking down on the bottom.?
Just an FYI: In an upcoming online auction at Cabin fever Auctions, there are probably over 100, four foot long sections of aluminum, extruded, train shelves listed. I believe they are listed as 4 sections/lot. They look like the ones that Trainz is now selling. (I have no financial interest in these). Sure might be easier than building your own.
Or just put the Gargraves track directly on the shelf board. Just allow for the extra height when building the shelving.
Thanks for the suggestions. The reason for a DIY project with wood is that I want to paint it the same color as the walls of the media room, where the shelf layout is (and also painted the same color). I don't want anything but the cars and locomotives to stand out. So, I have the wood, brackets, screws, etc. and will start on the grooving process on the table saw today. Shouldn't take long to do, once setup. The stud locations and height are already marked for the brackets. I'm thinking this will go together a lot faster than the shelf dual track layout did (plus it's not as far up).
@RJT posted:
Looks good. This is my media room and my dual track shelf layout near the ceiling. I wanted the shelves to blend in with the walls (the brackets are powder coated black) and are held in with three 3" screws, on 16" studs. I don't think it is going to flex or go anywhere. I wanted the shelves to be the same color as the walls and the track shelf, so that is what I am going after. However, after I looked at all of the passenger cars that I have and the locomotives, I will have trains on three of the four walls. But, I won't have to move any of my artwork around and that was important to me also. I do photography and this room is one where I can print my own work and show it off. That is why it was important that they not get knocked off by the giant tails of three Labrador retrievers, when they are up there with us.