Do double lift out sections work?

A lift-out, swing gate, drop gate or lift gate all come down to precision in their construction. If you take your time, plan, and cut and assemble precisely, any solution will work well for you. I'm personally a fan of swing gates as you don't have to lift them. The catch is that you need to make precise locations/orientation on the hinges to make sure they swing smoothly. There are several articles/pictures on how to make them.

Matt,

I have an idea on how to make them, my question is that if I build two lift out sections for one loop will I have issue running power to both of them?

" if I build two lift out sections for one loop will I have issue running power to both of them?"

   Nothing that can't be solved. You might have to wire the permanent section between the two lift outs with wiring going up and over the door trim or down and under the flooring but if all the permanent parts are hard wired it's simple to wire from them to the bridges with plugs or contacts of some sort. For my current layout( in N scale) I combined the door and closet entrance into one long curved removable section. ...DaveB

I have a lift bridge from main layout to a turntable and loco storage.  The hinged end in on the side away from the layout.  I prong on the bridge comes down into a groove in the main layout.  Not only does this assure track alignment, but under the grrove is a microswitch that, when the bridge is lifted, throws the switch for the lead to it, so trains don't take that route.  I use a plug & socket to disconnect the engine yard power,; its cables run under the bridge.

Some kind of interlock to assure no trains when liftout is not in place is essential.

Sorry. Misunderstood the question. You shouldn't have a problem. The lift-out/swing-out/lift-up/drop-down/whatever kind of access panel should have feed wires dedicated to the track on it and if it lifts completely out, then a plug-in connector or spring-loaded contacts will work. You should also have "lock-out" switches that kill the power to the approach tracks on both sides to prevent an engine from running into the abyss.

Josh,

I completely agree with Matt's comments, regardless of lift out, hinged out left or right or hinged on end lift up the opposite end, precision in wood framework and track alinement of track on removeable section, hinged lift up section, or hinged out section with the stationary on both sides of these movable sections is critical.

Horizontal stops for pivoting gate and vertical support of the opposite end of hinged upward lift gate is also a requirement for track alignment, Matt's comments on electricial connections to the track or tracks mounted on these removable or pivoted sections is critical based on method chosen, removeable or pivoted up or sideways. For a removeable section a male female electrical connection pair is required for complete seperation, for the hinged sections flexible wires, 16 or 18 gauge, will have to be soldered to the track, routed under the track mounting board on the hinged end to the stationary track framework wiring to complete the track circuit.

I used nailable wire supports in securing the wire to the  bottom of the upward pivoting track board and allowed enough wire slack from the closed to open gate position for all wire to fold back on itself, on this length was verified the wire was attached with the nailable wire support and the free wire length routed to the stationary framework wires.      

Three lift sections on my layout. All hinged above and wired (soldered)  from below (Gargraves track) with knife switch contacts on the lift side to maintain continuity. They have worked fine but when working with wood you must allow for expansion and contraction with humidity and temperature. Wood moves continuously and setting the gap is the challenge.