Drywall Help for new train room

You can also use a wet sponge to smooth the dry wall out instaed of sanding  Less dust but a little more elbow grease

Wow never heard of doing it that way.  I will give it a shot

Wet sanding helps keep the dust down.

Pros use fast setting mud and wet sand as they go.

I just texture and sand as little as I can.

I sheet-rocked a 6 bedroom house, over 200 sheets of drywall in 1982.

One room is easy.

Use less mud, and get it on as smooth as possible. Less sanding, less dust.

You can also purchase a sanding block that hooks to your shop vac hose.  It uses sanding screens and the dust is sucked through the screen and into the vac. 

 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Fib..._rlcECFWqCMgodciUAZw

 

Be sure to use a bag in the vac to catch the dust.  I did my basement this way and there was almost no airborne dust, just a little that fell straight down and was vacuumed up later.

 

 

As stated above, use a wet cloth or sponge for your first few steps in smoothing out your applied drywall mud.  I let everything dry after I sponge it down.  I sponge it two or three times to get it as smooth as possible, then I sand it completely smooth for my last pass.  Still some dust, but only a minimal amount.  Also, as mentioned above, try to smooth your work immediately after putting the mud on.  Use as wide a trowel as you can.  Don't go over and over wet mud, because you will get frustrated trying to smooth it out all at once.  The wet method (not soaking wet) will get you where you want to be.

 

Painting with flat or eggshell will help to hide imperfections in your drywall finish work.  Semi-gloss or high gloss will show every imperfection, and actually seem to magnify them.

 

Hope this helps. 

Tools of the trade.

(1.)  Attempt to install the board with a minimum of cuts and divits. Less repair/patch work.
(2.) Apply tape/compound, removing as much wet compound as possible, let dry.
(3.) Apply second coat of compound with a larger tool.  Remove excess compound with the second move of the tool leaving only a minimum of compound.
(4.) Apply third coat, First two coats should have been smooth enough not to require sanding or sanding is a bare minimum to remove slop or burrs left as part of the wet installation.
(5.) Usually by the time you're done, you have mastered the technique.

(6.) Notes: (a.) Keep the tools clean.

          (b.) Don't return used compound to the bucket/container.

No getting around it. There's a lot of labor involved.

quote:

You can also purchase a sanding block that hooks to your shop vac hose.  It uses sanding screens and the dust is sucked through the screen and into the vac. 

 

Unfortunately, in my experience, the shop vacuum's filter will clog very quickly.

Unfortunately, in my experience, the shop vacuum's filter will clog very quickly.

That's why I said to be sure and use a bag in the shop vac to catch the dust.  If you use the bare bucket with just a filter in the middle, that filter will clog almost instantly.  There are bags available for most brands and sizes of vac and these keep the filter clean.

Purchased a filter bag at Sears, it was supposed to fit all their shop vacs. It did not.

Back in the 1960s, my dad and his buddies who were all specialists in one thing or another - Sheet Rock, concrete, bricks, painting, plumbing, electricity...

At the drop of a hat, all you had to do was supply the building materials, beer, cigarettes, and sandwiches, and these guys would build everything from patio decks, trainrooms, basement bathrooms, kitchens, showers, you name it, all in a weekend!

Kind of like Amish barn raising!

 

Too bad we all dont live near each other, we could do the OGR forum of version of Amish Barn Raising...but instead build trainrooms!

Usually requires a large volume filter. I have two filters and wash filters with water and let dry.
Small shop vac with a big filter.

Filter.

Second filter.

I spend a surprising amount of time changing/cleaning filters.

I'll just add that if you are using the ShopVac, get the ShopVac 12' long contractor hose.  It make live easier when you don't have to lift the Vac for those high spots. 

 

I also use flexible sanding blocks.

 

Jim

Less is more in sheetrock repair and install. EZsand is the best for some one that does not  do it as much. the thing is you have to mix it your self in a mud tray or bucket so you can use as mush as you need. there is 5min 20min 45min & 90min set up time the best part is if you put to much on its Ez to sand and not as dusty you can use it for rock molds to just add more water to it. also use 150 grit sandpaper work the best. for your vac there should be a pre filter bag that you can get so the filter will not get clogged up, RIDGID shop vac has them

when taping is done correctly almost no sanding should be needed. when you need to sand use a "Clean Stream" filter in your shop vac. regular shop vac filters are no where fine enough to stop sheetrock dust. a Clean Stream is HEPA rated and will stop all sheetrock dust, it will not clog. it is made of gortex and is washable. it is about $30 or so and will last a lifetime. I have been using them in my 2 vacs for at least 15 years now, there is nothing that comes near to them unless you have an industrial HEPA vac. I have a Porter Cable random orbital sander with a vac attachment that makes sanding walls almost dustless.

Those were the days, my friend.  Share, and share alike.  I agree, forum members would probably be happy to help each other if we all lived in the same region.  Nice post, chip.

yep!!!

 

Rick

Shop vacs are a WASTE OF TIME AND EFFORT without this. Take the time and build this. You can buy them for about $25. Use it correctly and there will be no dust. Use the sanding block on the shop vac.

 

 

http://www.instructables.com/i...-CollectorSeperator/

 

The best way I've found for drywall, sanding floors, and even in the wood shop is a box fan and a furnace filter.  The fan moves the dust around and it gets filtered out of the air by the filter.  I told a friend who does drywall about this a few years ago and this all he uses now.

Good luck.

James

 I use durabond as a base coat and even the second. On the finish coat, thin it a bit and drag it smooth. You shouldn't be sanding more than to feather out the edges.

 Use the best lighting you can get to show imperfections. You can fix some light ones after the first primer coat.

 Two primer coats and two finish coats of paint do a lot to help smooth out the surface look. Skimping on that, allows more to show thru.

First if you taped and spackle correctly, you should have little to sand and vacuum.

 

I use the sheetrock sponges and the vacuum sander with a fine filter. No problem. Letting it fall to the floor and then pick up is not good. My opinion, do whatever you want.

I don't really understand the comments about ShopVacs making the dust problem worse.  With the proper filters, my experiences are they work great.

 

Only once had a problem with the ShopVac, and that was due to not paying attention and putting the hose on the wrong end! Talk about dust blowing everywhere!

 

Jim

open a window and use a fan to direct air current to the door or window.  It dust will get around, but will be blown out of the house.  Or put a box fan in the window backwards to suck the air out

Ditto. Great advice. I've done this too...

 

Option #2.... 

 

I did the sheet rock in my train room too. When it came time to do the new bathroom, I hired a professional. I have a very healthy respect for anyone that does this well. A pro makes it look easy. This is just plain, hard work!

 

Gilly

Thank you for all the advice

 

I wish I had asked this a week ago!

 

I did put too much mud on the walls to begin with.  I made a big mess sanding it, and even though I put plastic up to protect the rest of the basement, used a damp cloth to try to even it out without sanding, I had to sand a lot anyways.   The dust found its way though and coated everything.  So it is 2 am and I am dusting the whole basement, and will have to again tomorrow as more dust settles. 

 

The good news is the sanding is 100% done, and I wiped down the walls with a damp cloth so hopefully tomorrow morning I can hit the paint store for some primer, put a few coats on in the morning and the finish coats in the evening so the kids can enjoy their new play room by Tuesday.  

 

Once it is all down my focus will be the new train room, and luckily in there I just need to paint, as the drywall is already up and has a nice ugly purple on it!

DON'T RUSH THE PAINT!  Also remember, the drywall mud will soften with the first coat of paint.  Give it sufficient time to re-cure!  I would suggest no more than two coats of  any latex paint each day.  It does take time to properly cure.  Even though it may seem dry to touch, it's really not cured enough to apply multiple coats in a short time.  It will remain somewhat soft, and prone to easily scratching during the first forty eight hours.  

 

Why rush it at this point?  You've already spent lots of time getting to where you are, don't botch the job by putting on too much paint ll at once.

Hi jdev,

late to the game, Yes, light applications are best. Start with a light swipe and move around the room. Then back to the start and a second light swipe if needed. First should be almost dry. I have been using the lightweight stuff on the last couple rooms that I did.

 

the basement is tough to ventilate, so your kind of stuck. In room with windows, I place cheap box fans in them and suck as much as I can out the windows. Shopvac makes bags with fine filtration for sucking up dust. keeps the main filter from getting clogged. The attachments are a waste of time, you still get a mess.

 

You do become careful about dings , dents and cut-outs as you realize what it takes to repair them.

 

I use a dehumidifier cranked-up to speed drying of mud and paint coats.

 

If you watch someone that does it for a living, you will be humbled by their speed and lack of sanding required when they are finished.

 

Plus, all of the other great advice you have been given.

I use this when sanding drywall:

 

http://www.amazon.com/Sand-Kle...wall+sander+dustless

 

Best money I ever spent.  Its powered by your shop vac.  All the dust gets trapped in the bucket which is partially filled with water.  When done, you just empty the bucket.  The system comes with a value control so you can set the amount of suction on the sander pad.  I only ever get a little bit of drywall dust on the floor.  Air and surrounding area stays clean of dust.

Part of the problem with a one room job is that, it's one room.  Professional hangers and tapers easily can do more than one room in a short time. Per square foot pricing doesn't work well for small jobs.  Material delivery and clean-up become a significant part of the job also.  IMO.   

There are interesting jack/support machines for hanging drywall, available at rentals.  This profession usually has relatively high workmen's compensation rates.

    

Wet sanding is a much cleaner method.  Use a large damp sponge to smooth the compound .  Keep rinsing it out.  If you are on your third or finish coat, take a soft cloth after the sanding area dries and buff/ polish it just before priming.  

The box fan idea works, the ammount of dust it shoots outside is downright amazing. i also like to run the air purifiers on full blast in the other rooms of the house. I have 3 of them, 2 upstairs & one in the basement, it helps control dust on the layout. 

I hate sheetrock and plastering!!!  What's the alternative to using it?  The only thing I can think of is paneling and most paneling is too dark to use in a train room.

Paneling can be hung and then painted.  My house came with lots of paneling, and we have painted 90% of it a nice color of beige.  It looks very nice. 

Hi Jim!

 

After 13 moves, eight owned homes, and six basements finished, I feel I have tried and done just about every trick regarding basement finishing, including drywall. Judy an I started on our last one, our current home, in August 2010 and finished it February 2011 - the 2300 SqFt basement took 64 sheets of drywall.

 

I guess that your drywall is already installed, correct? If not, do not use nails! Use screws, instead, and a deck/drywall electric screwdriver (Harbor Freight $40) works great.

 

As has been said, use as little joint cement as possible, but if you already have it on, that's OK - now to sanding.

 

The water pail with vacuum cleaner works OK, but the suction on the sander makes it more difficult to sand. We started using it two basements ago, and Judy did a lot (most?) of the sanding, and she did not like the effort required to sand, but it was worth it to keep the dust down.

 

Then we started using the wet sponge, and that is what we liked the best. I bought sponges with a handle (see picture - Super Scrubber) and it made the job easier. Keep in mind, though, that you may still have to do some regular sanding in some spots, so some dust is inevitable.

 

Oh, almost forgot. A stainless steel mud pan ($15) is worth every penny over a plastic pan ($5) with the metal edges.

 

 

Good luck!

 

Alex

In addition to your shop vac, get a box fan.  Tape a furnace air filter over the inlet side of the fan.  Position the fan where it will pull in anything the drops past the shop vac hose.  This does a great job of pulling dust out of the air, even with the windows closed.

There are different types and sizes of board. Common drywall can be 1/2" thick 4' X 8' sheets. Another common size is 4'X 12' sheets.  Commercial installation sees a lot  of 5/8" thick sheets. There is also specific fire rated board.    Amazing how much more that 1/8" is.   I've seen 5 ft wide boards and on occasion 14 ft long boards. Both with specific applications.   Some finish applications are done as a skim-coat, apparently popular in the Boston area.  Board is slightly different. Finish process is also different requiring a complete cover of the board after seams are taped.  I've seen orange board/ a sound deadening board, blue board and green board, all with a different purpose.  I also experienced sheets as thin as 1/4" used as a laminate/clean-up over existing plaster/old homes.   Point to be noted, there is a fair amount of intensity to this trade.  All requiring a fair amount of work. 

There are interesting boom trucks designed to deliver drywall sheets to a job site.  They can quickly set piles of drywall to a second or third level of a building without all that hand labor.