Ebay relay question

What relay, do you have an eBay auction number?

I'm confused. Who is asking about relays, what relay is he asking about, and why is the other member talking about a completely different time-delay circuit?

Arthur P. Bloom posted:

I'm confused. Who is asking about relays, what relay is he asking about, and why is the other member talking about a completely different time-delay circuit?

You think  you're the only one confused?

GunrunnerJohn ,

I thought someone would like those type relays for their layout. That's all.    

John 

It just came out of left field, I thought someone was looking for that specific functionality.   They do look like a useful delay for a variety of functions.  I guess I'm just used to stuff like that being posted in response to a query, you confused me.

I did an advanced search using the username "graz" and the word "relay" and this came up as from 2015.

https://ogrforum.com/t...53#40567597816615053

In that thread I showed a 12V DC relay module:

If this is what the OP has, I'd think GRJ's circuit below from the following thread could apply:

https://ogrforum.com/t...39#46904150286605339

IF the OP chooses to confirm this is what he's talking about...or if anyone else expresses interest, I can detail how to marry the two for the purpose of driving 153 signal lamps.  That eBay relay module is still readily available for less than $2 (free shipping).  It's nice handy because it has screw terminal connections which can save the hassles of soldering to teeny-tiny relay terminal pins if one does not have a mating socket for their chosen relay.

I have used some of the above digital delay timers. They work very well though the instructions are a bit vague.

Wow. I just came back to this thread this morning to see the carnage!

Very sorry, for some reason my photo attachment didn't stick to my first post. Probably operator error.

Stan's detective work and photo above are correct and show the relay that i have.

Thanks again

Well then, here you go.  This high res photo should expand on clicking so you can study the connections.

This follows GRJ's circuit above.  I did not use the 22 uH inductor/choke for DCS.  I did not have a 220uF cap handy so used a 470uF.  Since this is only operating at 14V AC accessory voltage (rather then 18V AC command voltage) I used a 47 ohm resistor instead of the 100 ohm resistor shown in the above schematic.  The diode, capacitor, resistor are readily available virtually everywhere including eBay and probably even Radio Shack!  Note that this circuit uses a single-diode for AC-to-DC conversion rather than a bridge-rectifier (4-diodes).

And here it is in action powered from 14V AC accessory voltage.  Note I used blue tape to simulate the insulated rail section.  I do not have a 153 signal but hopefully the proxy shown is self-explanatory.

For the record, this 12V DC relay module draws about 30 mA at 12V DC when the relay is active.  IF you have a source of isolated 12V DC (e.g., from a wall-wart) and can run 12V DC to your signaling relays, you would hook the module up differently as you don't need to convert AC-to-DC. 

That photo and description are a real help Stan. Thank You very much!

My limited electrical knowledge will now rear it's ugly head - I assume that the use of the resistor and diode take the place of the rectifier? At least that's what I gleaned from your writeup. And does the capacitor prevent chattering?

I'm not using DCS. However, I do run TMCC/ Legacy. If I wanted to power this from an 18v handle setting on my zw should the 100 ohm resistor be used?

Rectifier and diode are two names for the same thing.  Single rectifiers/diodes are insanely (low) priced on eBay -  2 cents each with free shipping - and makes for a simpler hookup than a bridge-rectifier.  If you're running dozens of signals using relays, then we can re-visit why one might want to use a bridge-rectifier, but I don't think that's the case here.

Correct.  The capacitor is used for two types of chatter reduction.  One is the buzzing you'd get from driving a DC relay coil from an AC voltage going thru a diode.  The other is from intermittent loss of contact when dirty wheels/track interrupt the voltage going to the relay coil.  The latter effect is sort of like the flickering you get in passenger cars from dirty wheels/contacts - the 153 signal might flicker between red and green.

Correct again. If you're using 18V AC on the track, use a 100 ohm resistor, 1/4 or 1/2 Watt.

Thanks again Stan. Much appreciated.

HI

Very nice and simple design Stan.