electical connectors on modular layout

Cinch connectors are pretty much bullet proof. They go by a couple of names

Allex Malliae introduced me to the connectors that RC car people use for the batteries.  They are bullet proof, hold up well to plugging and unplugging and come in several gauges.  

Our Liberty HiRailers are using Anderson Power Poles and 9 pin connectors, link here:

www.liberty-hi-railers.com/tips/new_connectors.html

Powerpoles with the locking housings are the way to go IMO. 

But as John said, buy the correct crimper. The official one is nearly $250, but this one: http://www.powerwerx.com/crimp...erpole-contacts.html

is substantially cheaper and works very well. 

For 7 wires, use the 1460g3 and 1470g3.

I have a Bill of materials for what it takes to build an entire module harness with powerpoles. I can email it to you if you want. goorangecivic71 (at) yahoo (dot) com

 

 

I am with the Tidewater O-Gauge Association. We vary the connectors in locations, depending on where and what they plug into.

 

Primarily the Cinch-Jones connector's connect each of our modules.

Our yard uses Molex + 4-Pin Cinch-Jones

Power feeds from our power table are fed through NEMA 4 Pin 220v 25A Twist-lock's.

Banana Plugs are for connecting modular items such as TIU's, Z-4000's and other accessories to the back of the Z-4000's. Only downside to banana's is high short-out risk because of their surface area.

If you do the Anderson Power Poles, don't forget the little locking roll-pins.  I didn't know about them at first, but they really keep it all together and "finish" the job.

Molex connectors are fine for stuff that isn't going to be a lot of connecting and disconnecting.  Also, a side load can deform the female pin and result in a loose and poor connection.  In a mostly static environment, they are fine, but I don't think they're an ideal choice for a modular layout that travels.

 

The Glancy modular layout uses extension cord male and female plugs between modules.  Pretty foolproof and durable from what I've experienced with the layout (each is labeled with a number, just match numbers together)

The Pittsburgh Independent Hi-Railers use standard wall outlets and 2-prong polarized plugs.  Makes connecting and unconnecting fast and about as fool-proof as you can reasonably get.

 

Andy

How much smoke do you get if you don't match the numbers?

 

Nothing beats these for durability. Just label them.

Anderson power poles absolutely the best most dependable way to connect any and all for a layout . The available colors for simple color coding is awesome and different awg's. Just posted liftout bridge tonight w/them in video http://youtu.be/MPi7q2thrkQ

How much smoke do you get if you don't match the numbers?

 

How much smoke do you get if someone thinks it's a AC plug and connects a plug to an extension cord coming from a wall outlet.

 

I remember a long time ago, a friend used extension cords as extended speaker wires,  the flames were impressive!

 

I use Anderson Powerpoles.

 

Ed

 

 As far as I know 5 years and have never had a problem. It's 3 lines of fast track

 with TMCC.  The cord ends are very short so it would take a real effort to make the

 wrong connection.

 

 It might be interesting to make a wrong connection. I guess the only problem would be a run away conventional when someone fires up a TMCC voltage.

 

Interesting enough there were 2 clubs running TMCC at a national show and both were

using track 1,2,3 on the TPC's.  each club was running the other clubs trains and did

not know it for the first hour.

 

 

My club uses 4 wire trailer hitch connectors.  You'd have to double up for your 7 wire setup but they're relatively inexpensive and designed to be assembled and disassembled again and again.  Never had a problem with them

My games were cleaned at least bi-weekly, only a few needed to be unplugged each time. But 26 times a year minimum on some, that's still allot. Its also the easiest plug system for a 16yr old to learn on after they rip the wires out removing a ticket board (the more I taught the less I worked). Little Anderson plugs?...cant say. Bigger ones Ive encountered while dealing with forklifts/ man-lifts batteries, good stuff. My suggestions were more in dealing with the molex system in place. If it were mine, for ease, and reliability Vs "professional look", I'd go with the household plugs too. They are made for more abuse. 3 prong if you happen to need to. If your fearful of someone tapping to, or into it, thinking its 120vac, maybe look into other, even foreign, styles of AC outlets/plugs. At least then the guy tapping in wont understand you when your swearing at him

  

       
       


They do occasionally get mixed up.  There is one connection for each track running along the front side of the layout, with a 120v line around the inside that is far enough away that it can't be mixed up with the track connections.

If one of the numbered track wires gets mixed up, then things just don't run right.  Haven't seen any smoke myself yet though

There's always a first time.

 

YEP! There's always that one time where judgement lapses and magic happens. I blew a TIU that way in a spectacular fashion.

 

But I agree with the suggestion someone else made about using either foreign country plugs, or go with the 220/208v 3-Prong configuration plugs. They wont fit into a 110/120v, and neither the other way (at least not easily). This is a good bit of protection against the absent-minded accidents that seem to get us all on occasion.

I do agree that there is always that first time.  But then again, with that same line of thought, anything man made is subject to failure.  I know our modular group does not let anyone other than our own members make the connections.  Prior to letting them make those connections, we explain to them that connector 1 always connects to connector 1 and so on.  We do not use a common ground for all 3 mainlines therefore, as one of our members stated earlier, a mainline will act erratically.  Command locomotives do not like two different TPC's working the same track at the same time.  As for the AC bus line that runs around the layout, the connectors are opposite side of the modules.  There is a 6" pigtail for all cables hanging down.  Considering our modules are 36" wide and the AC pigtail plus the track pigtail only equals 12" leaving a 24" gap, I do not think we have a problem.  However, for all the what if guys, I will leave you with this little morsel to think about, what if worms had machineguns?  Ya think the birds would still mess with them?

Spike,

 

While I haven't read about "worms with machine guns" recently, I have read, on our forum about guys who leave the bridge up and their train runs off the track onto the floor. Often. Even the experienced amongst us! &^%$ happens!

 

IMHO, although a 24" gap is clearly enough space between high voltage and low voltage, it would be fairly easy to cross connect a high voltage extension cord to a track loop, given the use of the same connectors.

 

Powerpoles eliminate the possibility at about the same cost, as do Molex connectors, banana plugs, etc. 

 

120V on the tracks of a modular layout could easily do thousands in damage in a few seconds.  I guess that's OK, because no one in your club ever makes a mistake.

 

Yet.....

 

Ed

 

John,

 

I have used a tool like this for a number of years.  Purchased for Ham Radio DC connectors. Probably crimped 300-400 terminals. Recently, the jaws started bending the crimp so it aligns with the shell out of whack. The good news is the jaws are replaceable.

 

Colors work  out great... I use black and red for my DC stuff, black and blue for my AC stuff.

 

Ed