Engine Reading over 20 volts -- normal?

rattler21 posted:

Which engine? What does it draw when it is the only item on the track?  John

An MTH 4-6-2 Pacific (Blue Comet). Proto 3, and I believe around 24-26 by iteself. It's currently packed away, but my memory is recalling such by iteself.

You need to measure your track voltage. An engine doesn't "draw" voltage. DCS measures voltage with a scale based on 22 volts ( without looking it up) on the track.

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Voltage can be looked at as a cereal bowl (different voltages) containing cereal bits (wattage or voltage).  The powered device (engine) draws (eats) available amperage or wattage depending on its needs. 

1. Your voltage at the track should be no higher then what the transformer is set to.
2. What transformer and voltage output are you using?
3. Is the output from transformer going to input on MTH TIU (In)?

 My knowledge pales in comparison to some of the people that do post here.    But I think that if the voltage is much over 18 from the transformer going through the TIU, it would probably cause issues with the TIU.

You’re describing an experience for a memory that is packed away in a box.   You may want to consider using a multimeter and unpacking the engine from the box and taking measurements.   This should help you determine if you have a track voltage problem or an engine problem .

 

and it may be 22-24 volts at your transformer but only be 16 at your loco far away on the track do to losses.

Voltage is set by the transformer you are using. You can set voltage using a ZW or Z-4000 for an example.

The engine draws amps, not volts.

The application bases it's measured voltage on a percentage of a fairly high voltage.  On the DCS remote, it's based on 22 volts.  I can't imagine why the application would have a higher voltage as a base.

In any case, that's not happening, you are not seeing more voltage on the tracks than the transformer is capable of putting out, it's a false reading.

Hi all-- thanks for the replies! I'm not too electrical savvy, so apologies for "drawing"!

All transformers into FIXED 1 & 2 (as well as variable 1 - set to fixed) are Z1000 power supplies. The TIU has a 750 going into the aux.

All other trains read 17-18.5 volts, never highter than 18.5, which is rare.

I imagine my Blue Comet is being fussy with its reading as it runs fine without any issues. Even my GS4 reads 17.5-18.2.

If I get the chance to whip out the Blue Comet, I'll try again. The same transformers are being used for the TIU inputs, and the engine on it now reads the same as above (17-18.5V).

As several commentators have pointed out, and engine does not sraw voltage.  The voltage is set by the power source (transformer) and under a heavy current draw (amperage), that voltage may be reduced.

You didn't say how you determined that there is 26 volts on the track when running it.

RJR posted:

As several commentators have pointed out, and engine does not sraw voltage.  The voltage is set by the power source (transformer) and under a heavy current draw (amperage), that voltage may be reduced.

You didn't say how you determined that there is 26 volts on the track when running it.

Yes..... I'll modify the thread title to avoid any further drawings!

MTH Wi-Fi DCS app and DCS Remote - Track Voltage, as stated in my OP.

GF93 posted:

Hi all--

I'm posting because I'm reading up on replacing the older bulbs in MTH passenger cars with LED lighting. I read that high voltage can melt the bases of the incandescent bulbs if its too high/higher than 18v. This stuck out to me because one of my engines draws about 26 volts, and I'm not sure why (this is what it reads on the DCS remote and app). It runs fine and I've had no issues running coaches with it. Would this be an issue at all? Thanks

 

I suggest you use a voltmeter/multimeter to read the actual track voltage.

I'd take a track reading as suggested. Increasing voltage is remotely possible, but highly doubtful, near impossible for the board on hand I'd think. More likely the engine board is misreading or not delivering the reading correctly.

GF93 posted:

Hi all-- thanks for the replies! I'm not too electrical savvy, so apologies for "drawing"!

All transformers into FIXED 1 & 2 (as well as variable 1 - set to fixed) are Z1000 power supplies. The TIU has a 750 going into the aux.

 

How are these connections made between the transformers and the TIU?

I’ll purchase a volt meter for future use! Any recommended and affordable brands?

 

Also, just popped her on the track. Reading of 26.5 V for the Blue Comet. An F40PH (both Proto 3) on the same track is reading 18.8 V (usually around 17.9-18.7). Probably a misread after all  

 

 

 

  I'm kinda behind the times on who's on top nowdays. TTTT, If I went shopping tomorrow, I'd likely ask GRJs opinion.

  I'm using a twenty year old Craftsman with fluke innards, a fifty+ year old Simpson, and a few no name units.

  For general purpose work you don't need to spend a lot at all. Even cheap analog beats none. 

  Feature I like most is a peak finder, recalling the peaks of a fluxuating read. Some peak holds only hold the reading taken as you pressed the button, so make sure it isn't one of those. (Craftsman likes to twist wording a lot, selling on hype vs reality.. read, test/play, don't just accept feature hype as gospel. I got bit on that feature not being like the fluke was. Oh well, It was still reading great, so I kept it. Dropped the fluke where it will stay until a building comes down )

A type I don't like, the screen will blank out until a steady read is seen. This kind is near useless imo. You'll spend more time waiting for numbers totsettle o th anything.... if they come at all.

You don't really want one that averages for you either imo. (nice, but not really ”needed")

(spellwreck woke up, time to exit for today )

 

I currently use the Fluke 117, it's been a good meter, does everything I need as a rule.  I also have a bench Fluke and several cheaper Harbor Freight type meters that I toss into toolboxes.

I previously had a Fluke 77, that lasted around 20 years, it still works except that the ohms went out of calibration, and the cost to fix that exceeds the price of a new meter.   It's another meter that I take to jobs.