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I have followed the recent threads and discussions on the pricing of new trains, and the threads and discussions of enjoying the hobby on a budget.  Inspired by one of my favorite TV shows, Wheeler Dealers, I wanted to share one of the ways that I really enjoy our hobby, and do it on a very small budget.  For those who don't know Wheeler Dealers, it is a car show from England.  2 guys, Mike and Ed buy older interesting cars needing some TLC, fix them up, and sell them on hopefully for a profit.  Ed is the mechanic with superb fab and mechanical skills, Mike is the sales part of the duo.  No fake drama, no BS, just a couple of guys having FUN with old cars.  Great show!

 

Inspired by that concept, I was at a recent train show, and at one of the first tables I visited there were 2 PW 6475 Pickle Vat cars in need of some serious TLC.  My pulse rate went up, as the Pickle car was part of my first Lionel set (1637W) in the early 1960's.  I still have that original pickle vat car and run it.  Both of the Pickle cars at the show were in rough shape with broken and missing parts on the shells, rust on the frames, wheels, and axles; covered in crud and just very dirty and in need of help. One of them was missing the pickle vats.  I purchased both cars for $15 without haggling.

 

The pictures below show the cars dis-assembled before I started any other work.Starting Point 1Starting Point 2  

 

Starting point 3

I started with the frame and shell that were in better condition.  

First I washed the pickle vats in warm water with mild dish soap.  They came out clean, shiny, and look fantastic.

 Clean vats

Next I washed the shell and examined it closely for damage.  There was one horizontal clean break along the bottom runner near the corner.  I glued it back into place with Plastruct plastic weld cement and let it dry.  Then I reinforced the repair by cutting a small patch of .010 styrene and gluing that on the inside edge.

 

 Corner brace

On one end of the shell there was a support beam missing.  I cut a piece of "H" beam Plastruct to length and glued it into place.

I used rubber bands to hold everything in place till the glue dried.  I found a great paint to color match to the original beige plastic.. Tamiya acrylic XF-57 Buff is a very close match in tone, however it's a dead flat paint and the original plastic has some gloss to it.  I still need to add some putty to smooth out the ends, but as that end of the car is hard to see on the track, I may not bother.

 

Pickles 1 end repair complete

 The last work done on the shell was on the roof.  Polly Scale Roof Red is an excellent color match to the original roof color.  Again, it's a dead flat paint and the original has some gloss to it.  I touched up a few areas on the top of the roof and the edges to make it look almost new again.  I then set the shell aside to dry and began work on the frame and trucks.

 

First I removed the wheels and axles from the trucks.  I chucked a brass wire brush into my Dremel and went to work on the surface rust and crud on the axles and wheels.  Soon the axles were good but the wheels were tougher.  I resorted to gently using an Xacto knife to loosen up and remove some of the really stuck on crud.  A second round of work with the wire brush, along with Q-tips soaked in 91% Isopropyl finished the clean-up.  A drop of La Belle 107 on each side completed the job.

 

 Good frane trucks

 The frame had surface rust on the top side but almost none on the bottom.  I decided not to drill out the truck rivets and left the trucks on the frame.  I washed and dried the frame.  I removed the rust with the brass wire brush and some light sanding with a fine sanding stick (salon board).  Of course this removed whatever was left of the original bluing, so I masked the trucks and painted the top of the frame with Krylon Satin Black. 

 

Good frame done

  

After letting it dry, I removed the masking, re-inserted the wheel sets,  put the vats back into place and.......

 

Pickles 1 complete

 

I now have a very serviceable 6475 Pickle vat car.  If anyone has a good way to replace the missing step, I would appreciate knowing it.  

 

So, total cost for this project is $15.  I had the glue, structural plastic, paint and cleaning materials all on hand.  

I still have the frame, trucks, and shell from the second car to work with.  

 

Check back for part 2 to see what happens to those!

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Images (9)
  • Starting Point 1
  • Starting Point 2
  • Starting point 3
  • Pickles 1 end repair complete
  • Corner brace
  • Clean vats
  • Good frame done
  • Good frame trucks
  • Pickles 1 complete
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This is one of my favorite parts of this hobby! The car came out very well, and you should be quite pleased! So many times in years gone by I have purchased a box or boxes of derelict trains no one had any interest in for very reasonable prices and as I have had time, or need a project to keep me busy, I dig through my treasure boxes and when something peaks my fancy, I bring something back to life most would have just discarded. I don't sell things off, but have been known to give a piece or two away, I just really enjoy working on trains! As an aside, I also very much enjoy "Wheeler dealers" Good show!

Yup, don't need to spend a ton of money on mint in the box postwar, don't let something thats old, dusty and dirty scare you away. Soap and warm water or Murphy's Oil Soap (our favorite) has turned many a dirty looking item into a really nice item.

Scratches and rust can't be changed, so be aware of that, but an item that simply hasn't been cleaned turns a lot of folks off, thats where us bargain hunters find our gems. Most Postwar is very easy to service and cleanup. After washing with warm water and Murphy's, we usually shake loose water off, gently towel dry, then a quick dry with a blow dryer. Depending on the item, sometimes a short "air dry" time is give just to ensure no moisture is still in screw holes or crevises.

Good us posted on future cleanups you do, its nice to seem them "revived".

Looks great!  I've done this with some postwar accessories before.  Bought a group on ebay, cleaned and fixed them up, replaced missing parts, kept a few for myself, sold the rest.  even with my cost of parts and the ones I kept for myself I still made a small profit.  It was a lot of fun.  I mostly fix mechanical stuff, haven't gotten into repainting.

I too, follow the Wheeler Dealer concept! I go to York and look for "rusty gold" under the tables. Most times I just bypass the dealers with new stuff and the manufactures as well

because I have no interest in paying insane prices for this stuff. Those days are gone for

me. I have more fun repairing and restoring! It's recycling really, someone gets a nice train

that may have been scrapped or stripped for parts.My PW single dome tank cars sell very

well! I sell them at Greenberg, hopefully for a crackin' profit! It's a win- win all around!

 

 

One of my favorite aspects of the hobby is buying less than mint items and rehabbing them. Looks like you did a fine job!!!!

One of my almost free box cars......

 

BOX2

The B&O body was used by a seller as a shipping box for some detail parts I bought....added a brake wheel.....made a chassis from sheet plastic, staples for corner steps and parts box trucks!!! FUN

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Images (1)
  • BOX2
Originally Posted by AMCDave:

One of my favorite aspects of the hobby is buying less than mint items and rehabbing them. Looks like you did a fine job!!!!

One of my almost free box cars......

 

BOX2

The B&O body was used by a seller as a shipping box for some detail parts I bought....added a brake wheel.....made a chassis from sheet plastic, staples for corner steps and parts box trucks!!! FUN

Dave,

 

What type and size of staples did you use for the steps.  They look far more prototypical than the molded plastic ones.

 

Thanks!

 

Jon

Originally Posted by Looney Tunes:

 

BOX2

 

Dave,

 

What type and size of staples did you use for the steps.  They look far more prototypical than the molded plastic ones.

 

Thanks!

 

Jon

Jon.....the staples are the biggest heavy duty type I could find. I'd give you better info but I have not kept the package and just store a bunch of them in a ziplock bag in my parts bin. Look for the type used in heavy staple guns for putting up insulation and ceiling tiles. THX

Jon, you're not the only one.

 

I look for beaters that I can repaint. And because I'm into traditional and 027 types of trains, I'm able to cob larger sets of HO decals for logos and heralds, mixed with some either O or S scale data decals.

 

I'm just now finishing up a Canadian National CNA web logo box car, a Norfolk Southern box car (that isn't black!!) - both traditional body types, a PROCOR 027 tank car and a couple of cabooses I got from someone here on the forum.

 

Just adding a little more decal detail can make a traditional styled car look so much more real... like adding the safety reflective stripes along the bottom side of the car. Or actual wood floors inside box cars and some gondolas, adding suggested underside details. Turning broken spring dump cars into TOFC types of cars... not exactly accurate, but mimics the real thing close enough for me.

 

I love it when I'm at a show and someone asks "Where'd you get that? That looks really good."

 

Just because I'm into traditional 027 kinds of trains, doesn't mean I don't like them to look good, or have modern roads to "represent" modern trains, even if they aren't prototypically the correct model car.

 

Though I also like to find PW cars that aren't too far gone, to restore and not repaint - that just need a little TLC to bring them back to life.

I don't have a digital camera right now, but here's a couple of old shots of things I've done.

 

First is a repainted Lionel Industrial Switcher with some added details. Behind it, a kitbashed toxic waste car with flashing lights, using an 027 Lionel flat car, K-Kine box crates,  and some Plastruct.

 

Next is a redone, partially kitbashed K-Line S-2 into Norfolk Southern with added headlight, marker lights, handrails and other details, followed by a CR/PC merger box car.

 

These photos are like 15 years old, but I still have these items, still running, still fine.

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