Free Black or Orange Modules for Legacy

Yep, but there was really a zero ohm resistor there, and the pins go to VCC and ground from it, so I figured it was the right component.  Not to mention it was the only choice, other than that cap at the lower left.

The bottom legs of the "R" are hidden by the chip, making it look like a "D" in the photo.

 

My blue module has a 100 ohm resistor, not a zero ohm resistor.  Perhaps the idea was that, unlike a zero ohm resistor, you could force a voltage across the resistor to rewrite the module.

 

My Atmel parts do not have a 24C512 designation on them, but rather ATML H844 2FB-2   8G7001

Dale, did you try moving the resistor to see if it works?

 

I like the idea of the 100 ohm, it probably would have been a good idea for all of them.  I believe mine were zero ohm, but I may missed the value.  In any case, since I just wanted to ground the pin, the wire did the trick.

 

That part number comes back to the same capacity EEPROM, so I suspect it's just an updated (or old) part.  The first set of pictures was from a 1.0 version CAB unit, that's the only one I actually looked at the part number on.

 

The beauty of all of this is the blue modules were junk anyway, I'd never use them again for anything once we've moved well past 1.3.

 

John, I agree pulling the resistor (there are several values 0 ohm or 100ohm etc. depending on the manufacturer of the module), and jumpering as you have shown is the best solution. Thank you for detailing the solution for folks to follow.

 

And I will state my caution again, the Legacy Operating system is very complex and even a single bit error in the programming or reading of the module during an update can manifest errors that are unpredictable.  Some integrity checks are performed, during the process, however the risk is real if you float/cut the pins.

I think I paid about $15 for my black modules...so, given the cost of this hobby, other than the curiosity factor, why go down this modify route and risk potential problems?

My little experiment started simply because I was curious as to what was in the modules.

John,

 

How did you get the module itself apart?

 

Doug

This was handy for me as I haven't been able to get a black module (out of stock).

 

I hoped to pick one up last month when I was in the States but none of the local shops had any. One dealer did have a massive bag of blue modules though.... should have asked for a few.

  

 Nick

I start at one end and tap a small screwdriver in each side, then move to the other side.  The object of the exercise is to break the glue bond on one side and then you can open it up.  Start with the connector facing you and use a small flat blade screwdriver on each side.  Then work from the opposite end the same way.

 

You'll sometimes put a couple of chips in the side of the module, but I've done half a dozen, and I haven't killed any of them yet.

 

Now I have some modules to play with storing configurations.

What do you mean by this?  Are you referring to the database or engine information?

 

Now I have some modules to play with storing configurations.

Yep, I'll be building an engine database for club use.  As we figure out mixes, I may have several configurations.

 

I'm always keeping the latest version on a pair of modules, and maybe two sets.  People keep asking to borrow them to update their Legacy.

 

I used a small saw for structure building small miter box saw or track cutting saw. Saw a little on both sides and the module comes apart cleanly. I did start at the rounded top end until the saw went flat.

Just did my upgrade to 1.51 using blue modules using Johns idea and worked perfectly. 

 

I had version 1.2 so I could not upgrade directly to 1.51. The computer could not communicate properly with the base using version 1.2. Lionel sent me the 1.3. Blue modules today (free if you call them). After installing 1.3 I made a backup. I then installed 1.51 and restored the backup. The edit engines feature worked great and I cleaned up a few problems. 

 

Great upgrade, especially jumping from 1.2. Also I have two new "black mods" after I do John's modification. now I have too many black modules...last month I had a hard time finding them and paid $17.95 for one. Thanks Gunrunner. 

Glad it worked out for you.  Did you see the "upgraded" modification involving moving the zero ohm resistor?  Given that it's pretty easy if you use wire and not try to position that little resistor, I recommend that method if possible.  I would have initially done that, but I didn't tumble to the fact that the resistor was a configuration jumper.

 

While I really don't believe that there's any realistic possibility of having enough capacitance with that pin cut off to be an issue, Jon had a point that anything's possible.  If you ground the pin by moving the jumper, there is zero chance that it'll ever be a problem, so if possible, that's what I'd do.

So I take it that you don't cut the two pins. Just remove the resistor and add the jumper .

OK you lost me John. Do you remove the resistor and put it over to the other side or get rid of the resistor and put a jumper on the other side(left side).

OK got it.

Gunrunnerjohn,

 

Thanks for the info.  I've modded 10 of these.

 

Jim

You have a lifetime supply!

John,

Thanks for passing this on,naturally the first module I tried was glued to be never opened, but I did get it opened.

 

Did you notice on the module there's a dot and on the inside you see a hole that is at the spot between the 2?  I wonder if this is used some how to jump the 2 so it can be writable??   What I'm saying is,does Lionel use this hole to jump the 2 and make the module writeable and remove it cover the hole and make it for 1 use??

 

Jon Z ?????

 

Doug

Well, if the resistor is a 100 ohm resistor, it would be possible to short it to ground and write the module.  Perhaps that's why Jon mentioned that the resistors could be zero ohm or 100 ohm, the 100 ohm resistors would have allowed for writing before the module was sealed in the plastic.  I checked, and the first one I took apart was a 1.0 module that has a 0 ohm resistor, didn't even look at the others, maybe the later ones are 100 ohm resistors.

John

The two I took apart were 100ohms. The number on the top was 101 and I crossed referenced it to 100 ohms. I measured it to be 98.65 ohms with my Fluke meter. I did the first choice which was to cut the pins and so far I have had no issues that I can find. I will maybe pickup two Black modules when I can find them local.

John, Great tip!! I cut the pins and loaded up ver 1.5. It worked perfectly. I am not worried about corrupt data. I would have to assume that during the write stage  there is error checking, and if there had been any corrupt data it would have shown up then.

I had no problems with the ones I cut the pin, but Jon Z had a good point.  I didn't realize the jumper was actually there for that purpose.  Since it was there, and I have the tools to move it, I decided to adopt that method if I do any more.  I have enough for my use, I bought two and converted five of my blue ones.  Somehow, I think that will keep me in black modules.

I updated the method of modifying the modules early in the thread with both methods, you can choose either method.

John, thanks for the work around.  Used your method and now up to date.. Thanks

John,

Used your modification a few weeks ago on a couple of otherwise idle blue modules and it worked perfectly.

Was able to complete my Legacy 1.5 upgrade.

Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.

Mike

Glad it worked out, it's a small payback for all the good information and advice I've received here.

I have used the ChipQuik kits for many laptop repairs. The SMD resistor in these modules has only two pins, but this system makes it easy if you really feel that you must move the resistor.

Gents

I have two black moduals for back up. Question is how do you write back up from your base and remote to the black moduals?

Thanks
Glenn

You need the LSU software with a PC connected to your base. There is a selection to backup the data base to your PC. All the info is in the base so you effectively are backing up both. 

Marty

Do you get the Laura software from Lionel?

Thanks
Glenn

Sorry spell check. Lsu

Yep

 

you can find it here. http://www.lionel.com/legacyutilitydownload.html

 

it also is used to make the upgrade modules. 

Marty

Thank you so much.

Glenn

The backup data goes from the base into your PC not

into the black module.You can load selected engine data,

with v 1.51 software,into a black module and then into a

different base but you need the Legacy utility program to

to either.

 

 

John, thanks.

 

I did a module now !!!

The second one is even easier, you're a pro now.

Dumb question- does this all apply to just the Legacy or the CAB-1 too?

CAB1 has no modules, this is for the Legacy blue modules only.   Blue modules are the software upgrade modules, they have the same chipset as the black modules, just a different jumpering option to prevent writing.  The mod I did was to remove the write protect provision.