I just tried to install my engine on DCS and having no luck at all what am I doing wrong

Well I am very impressed with the help I received on this Forum and you guys were right when you said just listen to Barry because can solve any problem and I would like to thank everyone on the Forum and especially Barry.

Great Job,

Ross

Riss,

No big deal, I'm glad I could help.

Barry,

I got the training running thanks to u but I had trouble with train coming off the track maybe I put rollers on wrong way, one roller looks taller then the other???

Ross

Ross,  If you can post picture of the bottom of engine that would help.

This was a fun read this morning.  G

 If looking for a tiu and not finding it  -- TIU not found.

"

If looking for a  tiu version and not finding it ," out of range."

Tough crowd.  We all want to help.

Gregg,

You should read all the posts. He's up and running after our phone conversation yesterday.

Ross,

From the picture that you texted me, it appears that one pickup roller is reversed.

First, the little black insulator should have a peg that fits in a hole. It only goes in one way.

Next, each pickup roller assembly should screw in so that the little wings and the hole align with the insulator.

This should result in the screw end of the pickup roller assembly pointing to the middle of the engine and the roller pointing to the end of the engine, or vice-versa. Regardless, the two assemblies should be pointing in opposite directions.

That way

Does this look ok now?

thanks,

Ross

Barry,

It seems to derail a lot why???

 You have a 2 rail engine running on 3 rail track. Notice the fine flange on the drivers. We can't  see the flange on  front pony trucks  or below the cab.??  I'm  not sure if you have the rollers in the right position. Maybe try reversing them so the rollers are near the ends of the engine and not in the middle.   When you push down  on them how far do they go? Far  enough so they're not lifting the engine a bit. I couldn't find much info  on the MTH web site.

Hello Ross

I don't know if I can help,maybe Barry is not available right now. Can you run the Locomotive again and when it derails  take a picture of the derailment so we can see the locomotive wheels and track. post it here I will try to help. I have a two rail MTH steamer I run on three rail track.

Clem 

Gregg has the answer IMO. Scale wheels. 

FYI, I just spoke with Ross...

He's using MTH RealTrax with O54 curves, for which the engine is rated.

I asked him to swap the pickup rollers front to rear. If that doesn't work, I asked him to ensure that track is flat and tightly connected.

Ross,

   Barry has cured most for your problem, you may need to reverse both your contacts and run at a slower speed for your engine to run properly on your particular track.

Looks like you are set to go.

PCRR/Dave

I am still having trouble with derailment for some reason, I did switch the rollers but it hasn't help any. It does have scale wheels the box said. I think I might just get 2 rail track and take off rollers, what do you think?

thanks,

Ross

I did what you said and still having derailment I think I will get new  2 rail track, what do you think?

thanks for all the help

Ross

what is IMO wheels?

Hello Ross

Just my opinion 

If I only had one engine like yours and just a few pieces of track, I would definitely buy two rail track and forget all about three rail. Also it being a two rail model it will probably need 54" radius curves or larger. 

Clem  

IMO = In My Opinion

What gunrunnerjohn said  (he posted while I was composing my reply)

Your derailments are due to the type of wheels your locomotive is equipped with. Compare the photo of your locomotive's wheels with this one:

Notice how much larger the flanges are on the outer wheels, and the absence of flanges on the inner wheels. This is what allows this particular locomotive to run on rails that have round-topped heads, on curves as sharp as 0-42 (21" radius).

Your particular locomotive was equipped for 2-rail track, which always has flat-topped rails, and typically much wider curves. Even though your loco can be switched to operate on 3-rail track, that capability is just due to common parts that allow the same locomotive to be marketed to European O scalers (who as a rule run 2-rail almost exclusively) as well as U.S. operators (who operate a mixture, heavily biased toward 3-rail with round-topped rails and sharper curves)

Your derailments are due to the wheel flanges climbing over the Fastrack rail heads, (which are round on top), helped along by having flanges on the center wheel, which prevents it from moving sideways over the rails in a curve. Your locomotive being equipped with 2-rail wheels, will need at least 0-84 (42" radius), according to the MTH catalog. That would mean Gargraves, Ross, Atlas-O or MTH Scaletrax (all of which are equipped with flat-topped rail in curvatures wide enough for your loco) should you choose to continue operating this engine as a 3-rail unit.

While this locomotive is also available with wheels compatible with rounded-top rails and could theoretically undergo a wheel swap, I don't know offhand if MTH makes them available for this particular unit. 

---PCJ

Ross, 

The best thing to do would be to take it a dealer, club or friend who can run it on a layout and, perhaps, see what the issue is under controlled conditions.

It just hit me - Ross said he "overkilled" the curve requirement for the engine by purchasing O54 curves while the box said O42. MTH's web site states 54" radius curves, or O108.

His box most likely states 42" radius curves, assuming that MTH revised the requirement down a bit..

I've sent him an E-mail.

I see what you mean about the flanges on the wheel, I will just 2 rail and be done with it, I love the way it sounds and I cant wait to get it running properly. I appreciate all the help all you guys have given me.

thanks,

Ross

I had an MTH Mikado that was 2-rail/3-rail.  While it seemingly was equipped for 3-rail, it simply refused to run on tubular or Fastrack, it would derail in about every third curve.  It did run on Atlas track fine.  In comparing the flanges on the wheels with other engines, it was obvious that they were thinner.  They didn't look like the 2-rail engines I have had here for repairs and upgrades, but sort of in between.  Nothing I could come up with would fix the issue, so I finally sold it.

Guns,

   This is not the 1st time I have heard stories about that particular engine and how it fails to run decently on 3 rails track.

PCRR/Dave

Ross, did you catch what Barry was saying?  Two railers speak of the radius of a curve.  Three railers speak of diameter.  Before going two rail, make sure you have the space.

Robert,

Ross and I discussed that yesterday.

He understands that, in order to operate that engine, he's looking at 7' diameter circles, or 3 1/2 foot radius curves. He claims that the has the room and was going to pursue getting 2-rail track.

Barry,

 You where right they said they didn't have 2 rail track and didn't know where to get it so I bought 3 rail Lionel Fast track with a 42"Radius it is quite large but I have room for it for now. It seems to stay on the track a little better so we will see.

thanks again,

Ross

Ok, Barry.  Didn't know you had discussed and wanted to make aure he cauvht what you wrote.