Ideas for fascia, Lets see yours.

I had a 4' X 8' sheet of luan cut to the widths I wanted at Lowes (They charge for a cut), I clear coated them with Urethane, then mounted them 1 inch above the surface of the layout with 4 screws per 8 ft.  That not only covered the 1 X 4 frame, but gave that lip for scenery & derailment safety.  Maybe not for everyone, but I like the light wood look.  These pictures are 1 to 4 years old, so most of what you see here is unfinished & yes I plan on a skirted look below.
Dennis

Classic pre-war.

I went with brown hardboard from Home Depot, cut into 6” strips.   Secured to 2x4 frame, filled/sanded at the joints, primed, and painted with metallic paint.   “Rivets” are wooden button plugs painted a different shade of silver.   Blue accessory activation buttons are made For arcade games:

Bead Board... still working on it.    Yes, it's packed with trains under the layout...

However, it's PVC, Bead Board from Loews.  Very flexible i.e., b~e~n~d~s easily and extremely easy to work with.  White (paint-able) Comes in 3 pack @ 8' each.

I used baseboard from Lowes.

Hi All,

Here are a few fascia photos from the ES&T division of the New Haven RR.  The luan fascia was cut on a table saw, enabling a variety of widths as needed.  I like the flexibility since it was nailed in place with many curves.  I used friends and clamps to assist with the installation🤣, done with an air powered brad nailer.  Town names are custom cut vinyl done by one of my sons.  

We have a round-Robin operating group which meets on Fridays, hence the waybill pockets pictured.  There are 6 of those, in each yard or industrial area.  

Custom Red Oak with and OG edge. Stain Min-wax. Golden Oak.

I have some areas where I wanted the fascia to actually be "scenic" so that when I take track level photos, the scene doesn't end at the table edge.  Just a thought.  I have only done this under the station for the moment, and actually the center panel is a "drawer" front that slides out so I can access a small control panel that operates switches in this area.   I definitely plan to do this elsewhere on my layout. 

Chris A.,  neat idea, nicely done!

Mike CT - I am curious about your curved deck bridge. Have you ever posed anything about how you built it. There are a few of your older posts that seem to talk about it, but the images are removed. Thanks - awesome looking bridge.  Jeff

The deck bridge was custom built by a no longer in business company.  (Bridge Solutions).    I provided a full scale template and talked about the decline/incline grade.   

Same as Hartman - 1/8" "luan" plywood cut to width from a 4 x 8 sheet; poly'd and glued/nailed to the edges with white painted legs.

I use a canvas type cloth, held to the train table using Velcro. This allows me to remove when needed. I store 2-hi bankers boxes under the table, so I need access from time to time, and there is no room for a fascia without reducing the height which would not allow the stacked bankers boxes to fit.

Some of the stuff under the table is non-train related.

That is really a unique idea Chris. I will definitely be working that into my future plans.

Fascia Board • Real Train Patches • Matching Window & Table Drape

My Man Cave

Patches on the mainline fascia board.

More patches on the fascia.

Eastside of town. The road names on the wall, along with a handwheel from a boxcar & real crossing gate light help with the final touches.

The westside of town, with matching table drape and window curtains.

My Train Layout - Brief Specs

      This layout is a shelf layout - 24 feet long with about 10 foot turnarounds on each end.

      4 Mail Lines with 7 sidings,

      Track: Tubular Track by K-Line Shadow Rail on a cork road bed. (No longer in production)

      Lionel and K-line 0 Gauge Switches

      Main Transformer: Lionel ZW-L with 4 180W Powerhouse Bricks

      Second Transformer: Lionel CW 80

      Control Systems: Lionel Cab 1 • Lionel Universal Remote • LionChief Plus Remotes

      • Lionel’s Bluetooth APP • LVC Lionel Voice Control

      • MTH DCS & Wi-Fi

Gary 🚂

@Hartman posted:

I had a 4' X 8' sheet of luan cut to the widths I wanted at Lowes (They charge for a cut)

Your going to the wrong Lowes.    Lowes and Home Depot cut a lot of things for me for free.

This facia.

And every one of my ceiling tiles which were 4x8 sheets of paneling.

Have fun.  And get free cuts.✂️

Ron

@Ron045 posted:

Your going to the wrong Lowes.    Lowes and Home Depot cut a lot of things for me for free.

This facia.

And every one of my ceiling tiles which were 4x8 sheets of paneling.

Have fun.  And get free cuts.✂️

Ron

Every store is not run by the same person.  My store states a charge for each cut, but they actually only charged me for one cut total out of 2 sheets. That was over 12 cuts total I needed at a charge of 25 cents (several years ago).  That was easier than me running my table saw.

Wow really great layouts here! Excellent thread with great ideas!

Around the RR edge. Discounted oak floor and created my RR logo on half inch oak medallions.

Chris A,  what brand of switch control is that on your control panel please?    I like the compact look of those, compared to the old Lionel levers.

Many folks here are saying that they used Luan.  Are you sure it was Luan, and not an underlay structure board such as Sure-Ply or Ultra-Ply?  (Lowes and Home Depot often have them in the same section as Luan.)

The reason I ask is that most of the Luan I see has cloudy grain, and Luan has natural oils in the woods that leach to the surface.  Whereas, the more expensive structure board is a high quality wood, with nice straight grain, often red oak.

Your facia's look really great, so I just wondered if it was really Luan.

Thx,

Mannyrock

Hardened 1/8" masonite 5" wide.  

Cheers, Dave

Great info !!!

Thanks !!!

Two layers of flexible plywood supported by blocks bonded to the layout.  The thicker piece goes on the bottom, glued to the blocks using Loctite PL3 adhesive.  The thinner "finish" piece is bonded to the first layer using the same adhesive.

Because I'm a Lionel loyalist, my 1x3 fascia boards are painted Lionel Orange, with (mostly) Lionel #90 control buttons mounted on the fascia in alignment with each action accessory. The fascia boards are screwed to the inner edges of four hollow-core doors, which are the platforms for my L-shaped layout - 15x19 feet and covered with green patio carpeting. The fascia boards are 30-inches above the floor - just right for use by my two great-grandsons

Switch controllers, toggle switches for track power to sidings, two Lionel sound buttons, and a control box for DC track power to three trolley lines on the upper level are mounted on a pull-out drawer. A Lionel 135w PowerHouse, two MTH Z1000 "bricks" and a Lionel  PowerMaster are mounted on another pull-out drawer, all adjacent to a power strip. The drawers slide back under the platform when not in use.

Mike Mottler     LCCA 12394

My fascia has been put to good use!….MORE!!…😳🤪

Pat

I painted the wood facia black and attached poster board along the side of the table.  I use long clear pushpins to attach the poster board to the facia.  This way I can remove an individual section ( several sections if needed ) of poster board when I need to crawl under the layout.  Originally I had planned to use gator board instead of poster board, however, when I check the much higher price of gator board, I had no problem making the choice for the much less expensive poster board.  The poster board has been working well for me since 2019.  

I used the color black because theatrically black allows the eye to be drawn to focus on the layout itself.  Being congruent with the black poster board and helping to keep eyes focused on the layout,  I also use a gray/black set of thick rubber mats along the isle way which feel comfy on my feet and knees when I'm working on the layout.  These mats also allow visitor's feet to be comfortable as well.  

A side note:  When my brother built the benchwork, he suggested having the facia raised 1 inch above the top of the homosote. ( The homasote rests on a plywood base.)  This way there are no scenery ( ground cover, etc.)  spills off the sides of the layout and onto the floor.  That was a great suggestion and it works well!   Thank you Bro!!

@randr posted:

Put shiney brass hinges on one long side and luggage handles on the other.  That should tip a few minds.

I used beadboard to match the rest of the room.