Installed Blunami Today

Welcome to the Blunami club.  What's the ZW track voltage?  It shouldn't exceed 19V AC with no current drawn by the locomotive or cars.  Otherwise, you're bumping up against the maximum DC input voltage rating of the Blunami 4408 card when the train's not moving.  Some of us use DC>DC buck downconverters to avoid that problem - see my guide to the topic here:  Blunami AC Track Power Interfacing - Updated 9/23 | O Gauge Railroading On Line Forum (ogaugerr.com)

Great job @toddstrick!  If you don't mind me asking, what is your total investment for the hardware in the loco? (obvs not counting the ZW and your cell phone!)

Not trying to start something and just trying to understand the decision process.

MSRP for a 4408 board is $255- and that's just the board. https://soundtraxx.com/products/blunami/blu-4408

Then you have to do a fair amount of rewiring, and in some cases, replace bulbs with LEDs and so forth, build circuits to support the DC only input of Blunami.

Meanwhile, a PS3 upgrade kit is $200 and is in fact a kit, with electrocouplers, LEDs, all wiring, tachometer, speaker and so forth. https://www.mthpartsandsales.c...ts/240?type=products Again you get a main wiring harness prewired, a pile of LEDs and options, preloaded test firmware for all LED functions on, and a diesel sound file- that you could change or edit to many different options.

Further, PS3 upgrade supports conventional control with bell and whistle offsets to activate most features (couplers, PFA).

Now granted, you probably want/need a TIU to program custom sounds, or pay someone to do the install or programming and even MTH will do that for $25, but I'm just not getting the math behind this- especially considering doing several conversions.

Is there some huge discount on Bluenami decoders from certain sellers???

Is your chief argument bluetooth control?

Vern, Blunami 4408s can be had for less than 200 bucks. For a few bucks more you can drive anything on any engine including smoke units and couplers. Not required is any command system other than a smart phone or tablet. Another big plus is better sounds than MTH or Lionel. Not something you want to switch too but for someone starting out its an economical solution.

Pete

@Vernon Barry posted:

Not trying to start something and just trying to understand the decision process.

MSRP for a 4408 board is $255- and that's just the board. https://soundtraxx.com/products/blunami/blu-4408

Then you have to do a fair amount of rewiring, and in some cases, replace bulbs with LEDs and so forth, build circuits to support the DC only input of Blunami.

Meanwhile, a PS3 upgrade kit is $200 and is in fact a kit, with electrocouplers, LEDs, all wiring, tachometer, speaker and so forth. https://www.mthpartsandsales.c...ts/240?type=products Again you get a main wiring harness prewired, a pile of LEDs and options, preloaded test firmware for all LED functions on, and a diesel sound file- that you could change or edit to many different options.

Further, PS3 upgrade supports conventional control with bell and whistle offsets to activate most features (couplers, PFA).

Now granted, you probably want/need a TIU to program custom sounds, or pay someone to do the install or programming and even MTH will do that for $25, but I'm just not getting the math behind this- especially considering doing several conversions.

Is there some huge discount on Bluenami decoders from certain sellers???

Is your chief argument bluetooth control?

I don't have DCS and only 3 MTH locomotives

@Ted S posted:

Great job @toddstrick!  If you don't mind me asking, what is your total investment for the hardware in the loco? (obvs not counting the ZW and your cell phone!)

204.95 for the board

11.97 shipping

7.99 for speaker

4.99 for capacitor 10 in bag

8.99 for 5 rectifier

$227.21 caps .50 ea 1.80 ea rectifier

@Norton posted:

Vern, Blunami 4408s can be had for less than 200 bucks. For a few bucks more you can drive anything on any engine including smoke units and couplers. Not required is any command system other than a smart phone or tablet. Another big plus is better sounds than MTH or Lionel. Not something you want to switch too but for someone starting out its an economical solution.

Pete

Synchronized chuffing is going to take a little more than a few bucks. To me, the sounds are subjective based on your preference but Blunami does offer easier customization through the app vs. uploading a file into an MTH engine and even fewer options with Lionel. If you want better sound quality, get a better speaker with a good baffle.

Soundtrax also has a Bluetooth board that can send a DCC signal to an MTH PS3 board. Flip the DCS/DCC switch and you can use the Blunami app to run your MTH PS3 engine as is.

I’d like to try one of these someday, maybe in a 3rd Rail type of project. The onboard sound selections and the 3W audio seem promising but I’d have to hear it myself. I wish they made provisions for a chuff switch input. I don’t run smoke (absolutely hate it) or electrocouplers so that’s not a concern.

The price is ok when compared with ERR TMCC parts.

This sounds like a great option for me to change my Williams scale hudsons. Crappy sounds and no low speed control. Today at 10volts they rocket down the rails, 9volts is cruising speed, but 8 is slow and anything under that, it generally stalls.  For me, since I'm not running TMCC, I think this is better option than using ERR boards.

@H1000 posted:

Synchronized chuffing is going to take a little more than a few bucks. To me, the sounds are subjective based on your preference but Blunami does offer easier customization through the app vs. uploading a file into an MTH engine and even fewer options with Lionel. If you want better sound quality, get a better speaker with a good baffle.

Soundtrax also has a Bluetooth board that can send a DCC signal to an MTH PS3 board. Flip the DCS/DCC switch and you can use the Blunami app to run your MTH PS3 engine as is.

I am aware of its shortcomings but the OP has a diesel. i have no plans to install it in another big steam engine until the chuff issue is resolved. Still for someone starting out and prefers to build their own engines this is the way to go. I just wish it was available 25 years ago when I got back into three rail.

Pete

@MR_P posted:

This sounds like a great option for me to change my Williams scale hudsons. Crappy sounds and no low speed control. Today at 10volts they rocket down the rails, 9volts is cruising speed, but 8 is slow and anything under that, it generally stalls.  For me, since I'm not running TMCC, I think this is better option than using ERR boards.

I'm going  with no, it's not right for that application.

Williams that run too fast because of the specific motor and gearing of the trucks that also draws high amperage.

This is a 4A decoder. Worse, all the back EMF sensing speed control is unlikely to cope well.

Your money, your risk- have fun.

Wire your Williams motors in series is one way to reduce your speed issue in conventional and lower current draw.

Again, you are comparing an 8A capable ERR board, to a 4A board, in a loco known to draw higher amperage just because of the motors and factory gearing.

@Norton posted:

I just wish it was available 25 years ago when I got back into three rail.

Pete

25 years ago, Bluetooth was still on the drawing board, Wifi was in Beta and the first real smartphone was 9 years away!

@Vernon Barry posted:

Wire your Williams motors in series is one way to reduce your speed issue in conventional and lower current draw.

Again, you are comparing an 8A capable ERR board, to a 4A board, in a loco known to draw higher amperage just because of the motors and factory gearing.

I'll concur with this statement, our single motored old school Williams 44 tonner easily draws over 2 amps pulling a modest 6-car freight load. You add an extra motor and a few more cars and the 4 amp limit can be found easily. It already runs like a rocket at 10 volts due to a poor gear ratio and there is no second motor to wire in series with to slow it down.

Interesting, the scale williams draws about 3 amps right now for the single motor. Is ERR still the better option even without using TMCC and running conventional only ? I'm looking for better sounds and low speed control, don't care about chuffing per se, nor a fan powered smoke unit. I posed a question of upgrading this to PS-3  and was quoted about 550 parts and labor. Almost wanted me to purchase a new MTH one since I had DCS already.

@MR_P posted:

Interesting, the scale williams draws about 3 amps right now for the single motor. Is ERR still the better option even without using TMCC and running conventional only ? I'm looking for better sounds and low speed control, don't care about chuffing per se, nor a fan powered smoke unit. I posed a question of upgrading this to PS-3  and was quoted about 550 parts and labor. Almost wanted me to purchase a new MTH one since I had DCS already.

Well, If you were willing to stab at installing a Blunami kit yourself, a PS3 upgrade kit from MTHPARTSANDSALES.COM is only $200 and would take about the same amount of work to complete if you leave out the smoke and electrocouplers.

@H1000 posted:

Well, If you were willing to stab at installing a Blunami kit yourself, a PS3 upgrade kit from MTHPARTSANDSALES.COM is only $200 and would take about the same amount of work to complete if you leave out the smoke and electrocouplers.

Ok, hum, I'll check it out, thanks ! I thought these were unavailable or not in stock. In any case does the kit have everything need to install into a Williams. I assume it doesn't come with a smoke fan unit

@MR_P posted:

Ok, hum, i'll check it out, thanks !

Here is a link to the installation manual from MTH: https://mthtrains.com/sites/de...ction/50as10709i.pdf

It won't include a smoke unit as they would expect you to reuse the existing one. Ultimately these were made to retrofit into MTH engine but they will also work in a Williams.  The tether from the tender may be the hard part to retrofit. I have done many Williams diesels with PS3 upgrade kits and they work quite well.

@MR_P posted:

This sounds like a great option for me to change my Williams scale hudsons. Crappy sounds and no low speed control. Today at 10volts they rocket down the rails, 9volts is cruising speed, but 8 is slow and anything under that, it generally stalls.  For me, since I'm not running TMCC, I think this is better option than using ERR boards.

Going to command won’t help a lot. The gear ratio on those engines is only 9:1 which is about half of what most all other manufacturers use. Best fix is change the gearbox. NWSL has 23:1 and 26:1 that are more appropriate. BTDT.

https://ogrforum.com/...-the-williams-hudson

Pete

@Norton posted:

Going to command won’t help a lot. The gear ratio on those engines is only 9:1 which is about half of what most all other manufacturers use. Best fix is change the gearbox. NWSL has 23:1 and 26:1 that are more appropriate. BTDT.

https://ogrforum.com/...-the-williams-hudson

Pete

Pete aka Norton, I'll send my hudson(3) right over to you, LOL Nice work, but a bit much for me. Maybe ERR's Cruise Commander/pre-RS Sound Commander as D500 mentioned is a good compromise ?