Insulated 3 rail track 027

Occupancy detection for activating accessories:

https://www.lionelsupport.com/...ents/71-2840-250.pdf

An insulated outside (running) rail can be used to, for example, energize a relay to trigger something else. The relay is wired on one side of its power circuit through the insulated outside rail, and when a metal wheel/axle connects the rail to the other outside (non-insulated)  rail, the circuit is made and the relay is energized, making it do whatever it is designed to do.

That's just the tip of the iceberg. It's all about completing electrical circuits with train wheels.

You don't even need a relay to use the insulated rail effect. Take for example the 145 gateman or the 151 semaphore. You just connect the accessory's common post to the hot post of the transformer (ZW, any A-D not U). B or C is best so you can set the voltage leaving A and D for throttles.

These two, and many other accessories have three terminals. In both cases the accessory's common is easy to identify, because it is not insulated from the metal body of the unit. The other two terminals need a ground connection. Both examples have a light and a coil terminal. The light is hardwired to the ground. while the coil is connected to the insulated rail. Train goes by, and coil is energized, and the semaphore arm comes down or the gateman's door opens.

Think of an insulated track as a switch. It's part of the genius behind 3-rail. With a standard piece of track, the two outside rails are both common and the center rail is hot. With an insulated track section, one of the outer rails is not conducting any electricity. But, when an engine's or cars wheels come in contact with the insulated track section, now the insulated rail now has a circuit completed by the wheels.  That turns the "switch" on.  Connect a wire (or lock on) to that insulated rail and you can now send power to crossing gates, a gateman or other accessory you want to activate when a train goes by.

Use non conducting track pins for the insulated rail or it won't work as it should.

Jim McC.

I have a PW-style toy train layout and use 5-6 insulated track sections to activate accessories and trackside signals. They are very reliable and work great.

The other thing to mention is you can make your own insulated track pieces. However they are also still be found from various dealers for 7-8 bucks.

    Isolated rail can be made with cereal box card board. Just pry up the tabs on one outside rail and insert the cardboard just like the center rail has.

  Marx made a "sticky" version, a long metal "cap" that slid over a normal rail. Lionel made a lock-on with a "clip" that equaled a short one.

  A relay can  be used, making it "universal"; but it isn't always needed.

I made a block section with 3 rail track to activate a crossing signal. I made small insulators for the outside rail with thin card stock and inserted between the rail and the ties. Each end has a fiber pin in place of steel. The block closes a relay for the signals when the train is in the rail.

Thanks for all the replies guys!!😄