Does anyone have a schematic for these? When I have the terminal clip attached to operate on track power, it only wants to be in the curved position. I can't find a short, so I'm wondering if something was wired wrong at the factory. Thanks.
Replies sorted oldest to newest
No service literature as far as I can see, only the owners' manual. Does this happen with only 1 switch, or both L&R switches? You seem to say they work properly with external voltage. Disconnect the controllers and jump the outside control rails to see if they throw properly using the non-derail feature. Are the insulating pins in properly, and are you using the proper controller for the proper switch? Try disconnecting the switches from the layout and power them up through the switch rails and see what happens.
Larry
Are you sure you are using the correct controller with each switch? The K-Line controllers are marked LH or RH on the bottom and the switch won't work right if you have an LH controller on an RH switch. I'll check my owner's manual and see if there's a schematic but I kind of doubt it.
Okay, here's what I've got: one LH switch, which I plan to use without the controller (there's a small tab in a semi-circular groove in the base for manual operation). Insulating pins are in correct rails, non-derail works as it should. BUT: when I try to move the switch from curve to straight with the manual tab, it immediately buzzes and returns to the curve. When I disconnect the the previously mentioned clip, it can be moved with the manual tab with no problem. This has been done on the workbench and on the layout. I've owned earlier production switches and had no such problems (other than the large footprint). 
I'd say you have a short somewhere that is tripping the non-derailing circuit on the curved side. Either that or maybe the limiter microswitch is out of adjustment or defective.
I would advise triple-checking that you've got an insulating pin on the curved side, and look for something that could be bridging the gap in the rail there. Failing that, you'll have to take it apart and look for a short or a wiring error. I checked the owner's manual for those switches and there's no circuit diagram, but if you look inside it should be pretty intuitive. If you can't find anything wrong with the non-derailing circuit, the limiter microswitch might be out of adjustment or defective. I've heard that K-Line had a problem with those microswitches, but that's secondhand information which I cannot confirm. Mine seem to be OK.
I've got four of those K-Line switches on my layout; I just checked them and none of them act like yours. Curiously, mine are wired the same way as yours, with track voltage and no controller. In my case, however, it's because I haven't finished the control panel and auxiliary wiring yet - eventually they will be running off fixed voltage with remote controllers.
Southwest may be on to it. The arm inside is not contacting the microswitch to close that circuit on the thru movement.
My memory fails me, but one member went through this with a repair of the microswitch. The switch from a FasTrack switch is an almost perfect replacement. Ok, I found them. Limit Switch & Micro Switch for K-Line
I think part of the contacting area of the microswitch gets worn and is then not actuated by the movement or the switch failed.
Okay everyone, thanks for all your suggestions. I'm going to assume that it's the microswitch. This is a spur going to my turntable, so it won't see a lot of action and I've planned on all manual switch operation on this layout. Funny thing is, I picked this one because I had read here that it would pass my WBB scale GG1 without derailing (it does, no problem), and I had found out myself that Fastrack 048 and Realtrack 042 wouldn't (pilot trucks jump the frog - but that's another story).
Southwest may be on to it. The arm inside is not contacting the microswitch to close that circuit on the thru movement.
My memory fails me, but one member went through this with a repair of the microswitch.
I think part of the contacting area of the microswitch gets worn and is then not actuated by the movement or the switch failed.
Moonman: I have had Limit Switch issues with a few of my low-profile K-Line O27 (both 27" and 42") switches. In ALL 5 situations in my case, what happens when the limit switch goes bad is that it will switch one way or the other OK but since the limit switch is bad, the internals don't recognize that it was switched and one cannot USE THE CONTROLLER to switch it the 'other' way.
But in ALL CASES, I could switch it the other way using that little knob and doing it manually.
I have NEVER seen a K-Line switch wired incorrectly, unless his was bought used and the previous owner screwed it up. I do agree with you that Southwest most likely has it right.
- walt
- walt
Nope, bought new, old stock.
Access to this requires an OGR Forum Supporting Membership
