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I know a few have posted about K-line smoke unit issues with their engines. (shorting out)  I just repaired and orig K-Line GS-4 SP with TMCC and here is what I found.

 

This is a horizontal plunger unit not fan driven.  The smoke board PCB has very large traces and the center rail power goes directly to the smoke board.  The problem is that when the unit over heats, or if the screws holding the board to the smoke housing are tightened too much they damage the laquer coating on the trace and ground the center rail to the smoke housing, which ultimately is grounded to the chassis (outer rail).  This immediately shorts the unit and will have adverse effects on the engine running right.

 

The switch is used to in the outside rail portion of return to chassis ground for the PCB.  Poor design in my opinion.  To solve this problem once the unit was shorted out, you need to replace the PCB board (if you can find one), or I allowed one side of the heating element of the board to be grounded via the smoke housing chassis ground, but ran the Hot Center rail power to the switch center post (replacing the chassis ground lead), then had the return to the other side of the smoke element.  This allows the switch to remove center rail power even if the smoke unit shorts some how.

 

The original design if the heating element gets shorted to the chassis ground the switch becomes bypassed and since center rail power is available all the time, it bypassed the on off switch and the heating element remains on all the time.  Hope this helps folks who have had issues with the smoke units.  G

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Thanks for the info - it might come in handy some day. I agree with you on the location of  the switch - on the hot side would be better design. I had one short out a while back, but it wasn't the board - it was a poorly installed hot wire where it enters the smoke unit under the top cap. It fried the smoke triac on the R2LC board. With the assistance of some of the experts on this board - mainly Gunrunner John, and I think you might have been involved too - I was able to diagnose it and replace a $3.00 triac rather than a $30.00 board. 

As I recall that GS-4 was one of their low priced club engines and also it was pretty shortly after K-Line licensed TMCC. My guess would be they were trying to save a little money and complexity on a low priced engine. I did the same thing when I put DCS in my Weaver brass John Wilkes - I kept the CV board and the old Seuthe smoke unit rather than deal with the hassle of mounting and wiring an MTH smoke unit. 

I think I have the same problem as did Southwest Hiawatha.  I am getting 0 volts going from the R2LC to the smoke unit element.  Possible fried triac.  Can anyone tell me where I can get a replacement triac.  My other option would be to disconnect the wire and attach it directly to rail power.  Would that work?


Originally Posted by Fran B.:

I think I have the same problem as did Southwest Hiawatha.  I am getting 0 volts going from the R2LC to the smoke unit element.  Possible fried triac.  Can anyone tell me where I can get a replacement triac.  My other option would be to disconnect the wire and attach it directly to rail power.  Would that work?


The smoke triac is 2N6071A just for info.

Sorry I don't have the Digikey PN, but its an easy search.

 

Rod

Yes, running directly from the 18V track voltage, I'd suggest perhaps a 30 ohm resistor for that element.  The smoke unit receives half-wave rectified track power from the triac on the R2LC under command if it's controlled through the R2LC, so it'll dissipate much less power.

 

With 20 ohms at 18 volts on the smoke unit, you're dissipating over 16 watts, too much for that small unit. 

 

With 30 ohms at 18 volts, you'll still be dissipating 11 watts, still more than most smoke units, so you might have to go even higher.

The difference is that for command, very few smoke units are wired directly to track power, so the fact that they have 27 ohm elements doesn't cause excess power dissipation as they're not running on the full voltage.

 

Try this simple experiment.  Wire one of those 27 ohm resistors to your transformer on the bench and set it to 18 volts.  Before long, you get a very hot resistor, far more than is necessary for a smoke unit.  Even if you don't reach the flash point of the smoke fluid, you'll char the wick very quickly, it's simply too much heat.

All the PW smoke units and all the conventional smoke units from Lionel up to recently were based on 27 ohm smoke elements.  Run at 12-14V normally.  There were a couple of exceptions but....

 

If it is conventional it is not being run at 18V and it is AC current not DC.  So wattage is less.   G

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