Layout Gate or Lift Up

John,

 

If you could provide a picture of the area you are referring to, it would help us better plan a gate for your operation.

Thanks, Stewart.  I'll take a photo on Saturday for the forum.  Gotta clean up the area before hand. 

John Leyland

LCCA #27358

LOTS #7104

http://midamerica3railers.webs.com

Here's a photo of the area that will have a gate, lift up or lift out.  It is three feet wide.  That whole module in front will be moved toward the other end and will be accessed from either side, so duck-unders.  That will make the layout "U" shaped, but will need the entryway.  I have plenty of Fastrack in various lengths, 4-1/2" and 5" all the way up to 30" pieces, with foam rubber underneath for sound deadening.  That gate section has O-72's on bottom and O-84's on top with 20" in the middle.  Is this confusing enough?  Got ideas?
John

John

I can't figure out by the picture. But I have built lifts before and will tell you Fastrack is very easy to cut to your exact length rather than trying to fit pieces in for you lift. Good luck.

Larry

Larry, what do you use to join the tracks after they are cut? 

John

I don't see any way to hinge the entire dual level piece on the end there , John. The geometry of something that thick precludes that. Lift out is possible, but that is one big honkin' chunk to be lifting up and out of there. Something like two separate bridges that can be lifted out separately seems like the way to go for your situation. Maybe two actual bridges (trestle or whatnot) rather than just lift out scenery sections would look the best.

 

We have 2 "lift OUTS" at the front of our layout on two different levels. You could just modify your bench work because that would be a huge lift up or out section. I think you would want just the bridge themselves to be moved. Maybe you could make it so the bottom is hinged to swing down and the top swing up? This is what we did in a similiar situation.

 

John

The track don't join each other, no pins.

Both the piece of track that's stationary on the bench (Both sides) and the piece that's stationary on the lift will be spaced very close. You would cut them straight and flush with each other. (No direct contact) That let's the lift go up and down. Also, A power and common wire will need to be attached to the stationary track that's on the lift portion. That alleviates the open power in the circuit.

I hope this makes some sense. It's a lot easier than this explanation. I'm going to go back and see if I can find some pictures. If I do I'll get them to you.

Larry

 

 

Thanks!  The bridge is a super idea, and besides we like bridges.  I'll experiment with some extra 2x4s, with 1x2s as a brace to lock it in.  I can see it work in my mind's eye how it will look and perform.  I guess I just don't see how to connect the Fastrack as to have no loss of current and signal.  We are setting up Legacy and DCS.    

JLeyland, here are bridges that act as switches so the track into the hole is dead when the bridge is open.  There are also wiring photos.  Your track on the bridges will have wiring tethers of some sort to connect to the power.

 

Access Bridges The top track can lift up and bottom can drop or swing.

 

Access Bridges used as Switches

John

Susan gave you some outstanding pictures that explains the idea.

Larry

Thank you, again.  I've got the picture.  It looked harder than it really is.  Now, all we have to do is get to work on it.  Actually, we (my wife and I) are finished with wiring the lower level and will start on the upper level after some scenic work.  The Forum really has some great modelers with super ideas! 

I did this, not sure if you can modify your space. Can put all kinds of scenery on it and track work. The curves are all super elevated.Power from hinge side only and no pins in track.

 

Clem k.

Wow! That is quite the rollaway gate there, Clem. John would need to cut away and rebuild the whole end of the layout to get the wedge geometry for something like that to work though. Maybe you could just put in a couple of hydraulic cylinders with hinges on the far end and lift the entire layout up so you could walk under it , John. Something like this:

 

Owen, that's impressive, but I don't think we've got the room or the money! 

You could use a drop section, Jim Barrett's design as pictured below, and use a lift up on the upper level. This particular piano-hinged drop section is in an 072/084 curve[s].

Thanks all.  I've got two 3-ft wooden bridges to span the gap.  On Monday we'll head over to Lowes for some hinges, then we're in business.  After they are installed, I'll post a photo.  If you all have more ideas, please let us know.  John