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Pete,

For that price i can wait a month. I usually try to buy my supplies ahead of time anyway. I always have more Evergreen styrene in stock than the local hobby shop, keep at least two new tubes of Goo on the  shelf - same with one extra roll of silver solder, etc. Don't like running out of something at 9 at night or 4 on a Sunday afternoon.

jackson

 

Does anyone happen to know what the "typical" light output is (in lumens)  from the bulbs usually used by Lionel (or anyone else for that matter) in lighted cars (e.g., passenger cars, cabeese, etc.)?  I know it depends on the voltage, but lets say at the track voltage used for TMCC (15 v AC?).

 

I want to replace the bulb-based lights in the cars with an LED strip and the question is whether having one of these strips the length of the car will be too bright (or dim, for the matter).  I hadn't planned on incorporating a variable resistor in the circuit to power the lights (but could).  the alternative would be to cut the strip into three SMD segments and spread them out along the length of the car - doable but seems like a real PITA.

 

Second related question, these particular LEDs are 3528 - I've seen others described as 3550 and 3570 (I think) - the latter two claiming to be 'very bright'.  I gather they do that by actually assembling several SMD's into a cluster.  In any event, does anyone have a handy-dandy 'guide' to these devices and how they 'scale' (light output, current draw, etc.) with 'part number'??  Or is it the usual problem of having each device manufacturer with their own sizing descriptor.  I guess what I'm looking for is the equivalent to saying that I know when to use a 60 watt bulb vs a 100 watt bulb...

boy you cant beat the price!!!!.  I wondered on the supply end when they cost cut them like that cheap. all the sudden the supply is GONE!  then it takes 2 months! 

 

I got 3 reels, so I may never need them again!  I think im lining my cabinets in the kitchen with them and my garage cabinets too.  just LED everything! 

Chris

Thanks, GRJ.  I just ordered from the $2.99 supplier.  Delivery is a week or so less, and somehow I trust Hong Kong more than other areas in China.

 

I don't see how the Chinese stuff can be so cheap, like the 89-cent relays I just got from Jameco.  Consider the postage from China, and you wonder how they can be produced so cheaply.

 

 

There was an interesting article in the WSJ the other day about contract manufacturers, who abound in China but are scarce in US.  For a fee, they'll make most anything.  I wonder (1) how the firm contracting with them can monitor quality and (2) do MTH, Lionel, Atlas, etc. just bid out production of various locos, or do they have a single source, as they did when they used Samhongsa in Korea.

 

Also, consider this in connection with medicines produced in Asia..................

moed.  I built some myself, but for about $1 more each than the raw parts, and under $3 each in lots of 5, I use this AC-DC buck converter:

http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/6117757227.html

 

Since output is easily adjustable and input flexible, I have found other uses, like operating the DC motor that moves my 262 gantry crane back-and-forth on the rails, and supplying DC power for relay circuits..

 

Yes, Norton, I know it comes from China outside of HongKong.  But, somehow I see more news stories about unscrupulous businessmen in China than elsewhere, like those to adulterate baby formula, medicine, ext.  I will agree that Aliexpress probably makes an effort to control those dealing through it, but it has caught hades from the Chinese government for allowing sales of fraudulently labeled goods.

 

 

Last edited by RJR

GRJ, do you print the boards, or buy them ready for component installation?

 

One thought for LED usage, other than in trains, is to install a 25-amp rectifier and filter capacitor on a 10-12-volt transformer outlet (Z4000 has one fixed at 10VAC) and have a DC buss running around the layout to feed LEDs.  If I were building from scratch, I would do that, but it's too late now.

Last edited by RJR
Originally Posted by Choo Choo kenny:

     GRJ could I use 1 of your led lighting boards, run it to A junction box and light 5-6 houses / buildings or do I need 1 board per led / 3 led strip. Choo Choo Kenny

For stationary objects like structures you could just get an HO power Pack or computer power supply. One computer supply could power all LED lights on the NJHirailers layout.

 

Pete

GRJ - forgive me for being lazy and not digging this out of the older threads, but does your board take variable AC voltage (say 0 to 18 v) and produce a constant DC output for the lighting strips?   Or did you design it to basically be used with command-control systems that have a constant AC track voltage?  For those of us with mixed systems - meaning some track with variable voltage transformer control, would your board work to produce constant lighting?

 

The boards referenced elsewhere in this thread (e.g., the board at aliexpress) seem to be 'buck-boost' systems that handle variable input voltage.  What I can't tell is whether they have a capacitor in the circuit to eliminate the light flicker as the car moves on the track.  I think your board does (?).

Originally Posted by RJR:

GRJ, do you print the boards, or buy them ready for component installation?

 

I have the boards made and populated by an outside vendor.  The last run was 500 boards, I really don't think I want to sit and solder all those surface mount components on that many boards!

 

 

Originally Posted by Pingman:

RJR, do you need to add a choke to this board for DCS use?

You do need a choke for DCS applications, my board has the required choke as part of the design.

 

 

Originally Posted by richs09:

GRJ - forgive me for being lazy and not digging this out of the older threads, but does your board take variable AC voltage (say 0 to 18 v) and produce a constant DC output for the lighting strips?   Or did you design it to basically be used with command-control systems that have a constant AC track voltage?  For those of us with mixed systems - meaning some track with variable voltage transformer control, would your board work to produce constant lighting?

 

The boards referenced elsewhere in this thread (e.g., the board at aliexpress) seem to be 'buck-boost' systems that handle variable input voltage.  What I can't tell is whether they have a capacitor in the circuit to eliminate the light flicker as the car moves on the track.  I think your board does (?).

You can find voltage regulator boards that have input caps, and also models that accept AC track voltage.  AFAIK, none of them have the 22uh choke for DCS compatibility.  My board was purpose-build to light passenger cars utilizing the 12V LED strips.  As such, it has just what it needs for that application.

 

Input: 12-18 VAC or DC.

Bulk capacitance for flicker resistance.

RF choke for DCS compatibility.

Output: Adjustable from 5ma to 45ma.

 

Note that my boards are constant current boards, and not constant voltage. 

Pingman, I've been using the buck converters for accessories, and have not used chokes.  I had made up a dozen or so voltage regulators with chokes for use in cars.  Unlike GRJ, I set up mine for constant voltage, so I could use them anywhere.  GRJ made his for constant current.

 

If using a buck converter in a car, I'd add a choke in the feed from the pickup roller.

 

GRJ:  500?  I didn't know you were that heavily into production.

 

 

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