LEGACY F3 NP A#201 - Unit Smoke with Problem Again

How much fluid are you adding and how often?  These legacy smoke units are thirsty, adding 10 to15 drops will only get you a few minutes of good smoke.

Secondly filling the f units is tricky, the fluid has a long way to go to get down into the unit, I recommend adding fluid, gently blowing down both stacks and let sit overnight.

If your short on fluid and running at the highest setting you may have charred the wicking fiurther hampering performance.

I get great smoke from all of my legacy units set on low but still add fluid regularly.

 

If you have to add fluid every few minutes, and you need to let it sit overnight, does that mean you only get a few minutes of smoke for a session?

Basically, Lionel diesels with dual stacks are a PITA to get filled correctly, they really should design them so the hood with the stacks is more easily removed to access and fill the smoke unit.

On the contrary Lionels E unit locos are designed well, there is an access hatch that is easily removed allowing one to put the fluid directly into the smoke unit.

Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

 

If you have to add fluid every few minutes, and you need to let it sit overnight, does that mean you only get a few minutes of smoke for a session?

Basically, Lionel diesels with dual stacks are a PITA to get filled correctly, they really should design them so the hood with the stacks is more easily removed to access and fill the smoke unit.

 

On the contrary Lionels E unit locos are designed well, there is an access hatch that is easily removed allowing one to put the fluid directly into the smoke unit.

I have to smoke, but slow their output! It seems that the fan was slow!
When I turn the unit smoke AA Power I hear the sound of the fan, but the fan's not-powerd I hear nothing!

I dismounted and fan spins very slow as this little smoke. Checking the board unit has a transistor that gets too hot, I think it might be the problem.

Thanks,

If the fan is spinning slowly and the "transistor" is getting hot, I suspect that the fan motor has a problem.  The "transistor" is a 5 volt three terminal regulator to power the fan.  If the fan is laboring, it's probably drawing too much current and overloading the regulator.

My first step would be to try lubing the fan motor, and if that doesn't work, a new one is around $6.

Perfect! I understand. My fear is to buy only the engine and transitor already be damaged, does that happen?

On the website of the parts lionel locomotive I have not found the code only fan motor, you have this engine code?

Thanks,

Well, you can measure the voltage output of the regulator.  Those three terminal regulators actually have thermal protection, so if they are overloaded, they just go into thermal shutdown, but it doesn't kill them.

Have you tried unplugging the fan and running on 5 volts DC?  You can determine the health of the motor that way.

The Lionel 610-1154-130 is a replacement for either Lionel or MTH smoke fan motors.  This is supposed to be an "improved" motor from the originals.

Well let's steps:

1 - disconnected the fan and measure the voltage at the plate and had the 5V dc;
2 - The transitor with the plug disconnected does not heat;
3 - When you plug the fan voltage drops to 1.5V is slow and transitor back warm very fast;
4 - again disconnected and connected to an external source of 5V and engine operation was normal!

Now my doubt? The problem is in the fan motor or transitor?

I stood in doubt!

Thanks,

You're saying the fan runs connected to a source of 5V?  And the regulator gets hot and drops the voltage when you connect it to the fan?

If that's the case, my top suspect is the fan motor is drawing too much current, probably because it's not turning freely.  If you have a current meter, measure the current draw of the fan motor when connected to the external 5V source and let us know what it is.

It certainly sounds like the motor is struggling.  As a new motor is quite inexpensive, and very easy to replace, I'd suggest that might be the best course to follow.  I've replaced several fan motors in my F3/F7 fleet, and afterwards they have all worked perfectly. The recent legacy units normally give the 3-blink cab light code when the fan motor is failing in this manner.

You can also simply turn the fan, it should turn VERY easily with no drag or binding.  The true acid test however, is the current measurement.

Unfortunately I could not measure current, but did return for the PCB with the engine Powered and functioning was normal, so the problem must be the same fan motor.

What do you think?

Thanks,

I'd replace the fan motor in your case.  If you have a meter, why can't you measure the current?

Yes, I have a meter, but do not think that the current scale with this problem, because it worked!

It's all working now?

No, I buy the motor fan!

That's what I'd do.