Leveling layout at construction time

Use a laser level. They have small ones you can attach to a wall for use in hanging pictures and shelves or you can use a spinning head model that will flash a laser line all around the perimeter of the room.

Use a at least a 4' level and take your time, you should come out very close. Or use a water level, may be messy indoors.

Water level? Really? In 2013? (Ok, if you were modeling the New York Central - and

who doesn't? - a true "Water Level Route" method might be appropriate.)

Laser level. No water.

You should be able to rent a rotating laser level at most rentals.  Commonly used tool in construction.  Many acoustical ceiling are installed with a rotating laser level.

Mark's method above is the way I did it and it worked out within a half inch.  Probably my fault it wasn't perfect but buying a laser pointer and sitting it on the top of either a ladder or tripod and rotating it around the layout walls will yield very good results.

Alan

...or use an open grid or L-girder construction method where the roadbed is all that need be adjusted, and which provides much more opportunity for more realistic scenery. The model is an island type layout, but open grid works for around the walls also. IMO layouts look best when everything isn't perfectly level.

Either way, install some sort of height adjustment in all legs so you have a couple of inches leeway for fine-tuning with a wrench after assembly.

Lag bolts:

..or T-nuts:

Jim

Hmmm..   The earth isn't level and I've never seen a real railroad that was level either.   So...  while I watch my grades and keep things smooth..   I tend to not be overly concerned with it being laser leveled.   

Use a 3/4" or 1" plastic tubing filled with water. Run the tubing down one wall and up the other wall. Mark the water lines and then use your level. Get on the web and look it up in any how to section. Once you see how simple it is you'll get it level in no time.

romiller

Which ever way you choose to draw your level line, I would definitely do that, it's good to have a known reference point. Even with different grades makes things a lot easier. A rotating Laser is the best, because you can also mark any center columns in the basement. A water level is also good for this but takes more time. There cheap and accurate. Nothing more than a garden hose and some clear tubing. Also leveling the bench work as you go is good. The longer the standard bubble level the more accurate over distance. The laser on a ladder also works good, but make sure you check the level all the time. By all means install the leg adjusters. Make sure your level is accurate! 

Good luck and have fun

Clem

Build in gradual grades to make the railroad more interesting than just flat. Even the flat railroads in Michigan have some hills to climb.

Andrew

The use of clamps sure helps. Clamp your lumber, tightly, then use a 4' level to check to see all lines up well.

I have been using a water level for years, nothing more accurate. a laser can't go around corners or into the next room. water level costs about $5 and a garden hose. a laser level is only as accurate as the the level of the surface it is mounted on.  if that surface is not perfectly level, the line won't be either. takes a real good tripod to achieve this.

I used a self-leveling laser level and put screw levelers at the bottom of all of my legs. My around the room layout is level to within an eighth of an inch all the way around. The level I used is a cheap Black & Decker that has a built-in gimbal mount and a 1/4" threaded hole at the bottom to mount it on a camera tripod. 

David, 

I had success with a laser level, and these: http://www.rockler.com/product...053&site=ROCKLER

A little pricey, but worth it to me for ease of use. I already had a bunch, and only needed a few more for the layout.

Andy

Used a water level to build the stone and block wall around my garden, couldn't believe how level I got it and how easy it was to use. Like you said, can go around corners even areas that aren't in line of sight. Technology has it's place but like I've said in the past, "Fine, it's 2013, so? Never saw any memos about not using X,Y or Z anymore, didn't realize things like that had an expiration date." Can't see paying for a laser level just to build a layout when a water level is easy and cheap, and what did our distant ancestors use when they built their layouts? Don't recall seeing many wonky layouts from the old days, guess some of us have forgotten the basics because of technology.

Jerry

No need to put down any system.  It is entirely how you use which ever system you select.

I shot a rotating laser on my 2000 sq ft 1953 era cinder block wall basement and the course was +/- 1/8" over 65 feet.  Construction was well before lasers being used in the common trades.  Just careful craftsmanship, that is all it takes.

 I posted about using a water level at the beginning of this thread, but renting a laser level for this project is like renting a sledge hammer to to kill an ant.  The laser levels that you guys are talking about are beyond the average home owner's reach.

I'm with Jim Policastro--open grid or L-girder bench work with lag bolts in the legs. I have even purposely placed flat areas on a grade. This insures that you have to find a way to keep your structures level - just like in the real world. Try it!

Water level how to  plastic tube at a home store  worked for the ancients and still does

Chalk line and level or a line level

Find a friend with a pro grade laser level

On my current, seventh layout (and last), and ever since my fifth layout (circa 1990) I don't fuss with "level."  I just eyeball everything "pretty close to level" and keep it the same distance from the floor, then leave it at that.  After all, I'm going to model terrain that is not level and track that is deliberately not level since it's climbing and looping over itself a lot, etc., so why? 

I've got a toolbox full of levels. Torpedo levels, line levels, bubble levels, and a 4ft level. But - the level I use more than all the others combined....a 30 ft water level.

The tubing (1/2") is inexpensive. The fittings for each end was a whole 5 bucks. The green food coloring was almost free ( I got caught!).  

It's never been out of calibration. Works around corners, doesn't need a tripod, and above all - it needs just about zero maintenance outside of rolling it up and hanging it on a nail. Of course, you may have to change the water once in a while and risk getting caught nabbing the green food coloring bottle out of the kitchen.

As you can see from the responses here, there is more than one way to establish level and to control grades on a layout. The same is true for most other tasks associated with layout building.

If you are a newcomer to the hobby, the trick is not to be intimidated by some of the very sophisticated tools and methods some people use and describe here on the forum. You can keep it simple and inexpensive, and still get good results.

Jim

Lee Wills correct in his method of building the bench work. For 30 years that is the method I have used on my 30' X 30' layout. I deal with the out of level problems when I establish  the road bed for the track, thats the way it is done on most man made strucrures and there are not many straight lines in Nature.