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03868AE9-82F8-4888-943E-70BB83323AF8339685D2-C94B-45EE-8E2B-3548B0875EBFSo I’ve had this one for a while. The frame is straight and seemingly solid but it has definitely stretched, by about 1/8-3/16th’s of an inch.  My question is, what the thoughts considering the idea of cutting a 1/8 “ section out so it is the right length? I know people have done this but....

 

 

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I think just appearance.  I suppose I could just leave it and put some tape  around the inside to cover that gap and keep the light in.  I was just curious, I know I have seen frame that were cut straight across and that is the only reason I can see for doing so.... Now where they heck can I put a standard gauge loop on my layout..

Dennis, in your first pic, I can clearly see the gap between the boiler and the boiler front. But what about the screw that is sticking out below the boiler front? Is that supposed to be screwed in but won't go because the holes no longer line up? If so, that would be a good reason to cut the frame. Is there a single spot that you could cut it that wouldn't interfere with other screw hole alignments? If you had several screw holes or parts that needed to attach to the frame, where would you place your cut? That could be a can o' worms for sure!

Dennis, not sure that it could be good to cut the frame. I would not do that, but maybe add a metal circle to the smokebox to join the boiler.

It seems really strange that the frame as shortened, generally they tend to wrap more or less but i have never seen something like this. Where the metal has gone ????

Any interest in my Hudson Erector ?  if you want it, it can be yours for a very very soft price (Sorry about Dave's commission ), or a trade for something in O gauge, of course a Scalecraft tender would be great.... I have fallen in love with Scalecraft, and I will try to find passenger cars to match with the Hudson and there is also the K4 ... i keep searching on ebay for one, it would be so nice to run one with some boxcars....

You can contact me through the adress in profile.... but don't tell anything to Dave 

Good luck with the restoration,   Daniel

3958A6EA-F6CD-4EF4-81A7-08CC213FABE7703F2841-9EC0-4721-AEC5-4D6301D0949E1838B98A-29C6-4DE6-8981-D76B3EADA6D2Daniel, I’ll send you an email, I think I have enough Scale craft K4’s and cars to share some .

I’m sorry I wasn’t totally clear earlier. The frame is broken just behind the steam chest. You can see the porosity in the break area. I may just leave it for now to get it running. It might be fine. On the plus side, the boiler cleaned up nice.  This is just with a delicate washing. It’ll be better after waxing.  The motor runs, wheels look solid but bith axles are bent.  Will try to straighten them maybe in my lathe or will have to get new ones. I don’t know how I let this sit for probably 10-15 years without getting back to it. 

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Dennis Holler posted:

Daniel, I’ll send you an email, I think I have enough Scale craft K4’s and cars to share some .

I’m sorry I wasn’t totally clear earlier. The frame is broken just behind the steam chest. You can see the porosity in the break area. I may just leave it for now to get it running. It might be fine. On the plus side, the boiler cleaned up nice.  This is just with a delicate washing. It’ll be better after waxing.  The motor runs, wheels look solid but bith axles are bent.  Will try to straighten them maybe in my lathe or will have to get new ones. I don’t know how I let this sit for probably 10-15 years without getting back to it. 

Dennis, I will take a full set of pictures of the Hudson and send them to you. As it is sunday I have the time to do it.

Sorry but i did not realise for your frame.  Cutting would be a good solution, you shortened it a little and it would be hard to notice it. I think i would reinforce with a metal plate on the underside. 

Standard gauge is always nice to work on it and it is a great pleasure to see it running.

Daniel

Dennis Holler posted:

Actually, it may be an early repro frame as I do not see any identifying marks on it like I am used to seeing on 260E and 261/2 frames.

I believe all of the repo high pressure die cast frame are marked...Either with the "LTI" mark in the ash pan area, or, the cast parting lines that MTH frame have from front to rear on the bottom. By the cross section photo, it looks original to me. You could probably save it, file/machine the broken areas smooth to eliminate the stretch.  Beware the pilot truck and wheel clearances.  I ve had good luck with these particular frames from MTH.  They are hard and straight. I recall have to clearance some areas for fitment of the old boiler etc.

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