I purchased a 3 pack of Vision Line Refeers a few months back and one of the scale reefers will not keep its coupler closed.
I notice that if I pull on the coupler it will release on its own. How do I fix this?
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Well John if it's spring loaded you only have 2 choices. Open the knuckle stretch the spring or replace it.
I fixed a coupler like this (not Vision) for a friend. I had to dissemble the truck and coupler and file the stop on the arm that engages the knuckle. It would not allow it to engage fully. PITA but it fixed it. A stronger spring would not help if this is the problem.
Pete
I just put rubber bands on my reefers that wouldn't close. I also noticed that if the coupler gets turned toward the wheel on the side of the tab that it would open too. I tried bending a part to fix that, but it only worked on a couple of them, hence the rubber band now installed on the rest.
Rubber bands won't work on a spring loaded coupler but it is a good fix for the pull down ones.
I purchased a 3 pack of Vision Line Refeers a few months back and one of the scale reefers will not keep its coupler closed.
I notice that if I pull on the coupler it will release on its own. How do I fix this?
If you figure a solution out let us know. Have 2 new cars which are going back to Lionel because of this. Rear ended the uncoupled train twice because of it
Really, how many of us actually use the couplers provided. I cannot find the trigger on most of the modern cars as they are hidden too well. I think a manual system with more of a scale coupler would be better right out of the factory. I never seem to use the uncoupler tracks anymore anyway. The electrocouplers are all I use anymore. What are your thoughts.
Its a two minute fix. I took the truck apart to see how it works but it turned out I didn't have to disassemble anything. Look at the pic J Daddy posted. The sheet metal piece with the L shaped thumb release contacts the die cast coupler. That contact point has to be filed back either the sheet metal or die cast or both so it can move further into the coupler head.
It will take longer to find a box to ship it back then to fix it yourself.
Pete
Ok Pete you have my ears perked... Can you circle in the point contact that needs to filed? I took one apart... big mistake... took an hour to get back together...
and still did not fix the problem.
Orthodontic rubberbands. The heavy tension ones in size small
J, Only crude photo editing software here. The two parts in this closeup need to have material removed where they contact each other so the moving part can move closer into the coupler head. Move the thumb tab back and increase the gap to the head.
Pete
Orthodontic rubberbands. The heavy tension ones in size small
Rubber bands won't help. There is a hard metal to metal stop that extra force will not improve.
Pete
J, Only crude photo editing software here. The two parts in this closeup need to have material removed where they contact each other so the moving part can move closer into the coupler head. Move the thumb tab back and increase the gap to the head.
Pete
Pete, I owe you a beer if its that easy.... so grind away either the housing or the tab ( areas 1 and 2) so the tab can move forward in the direction of the horizontal red arrow...
Does area 3 need to be filed away as well?
I think area 3 is OK. You won't have to remove that much material that area 3 will contact the coupler head. I am guessing about .030" will make a big difference here.
Pete
So the "tab" portion need more travel to lock the knuckle then Pete?
So the "tab" portion need more travel to lock the knuckle then Pete?
Exactly. I assume manufacturing tolerances are why some work and some don't. You will find very little metal will need to be filed off.
Pete
Rubber bands won't work on a spring loaded coupler but it is a good fix for the pull down ones.
They work for me. There is a groove in the coupler bar where the arm attaches to the back of the coupler. If you get the rubber band in the groove on the top side and make sure to goes around the catch that you push towards the car to open the coupler, it will not open anymore, at least on mine they haven't.
Again, these are a great step backwards from the thumbtack couplers, which were quickly adjustable and fixable - and didn't have that long, unrealistic shank - plus you could find the tab.
I, too, was taken with the new trucks some years ago when they first appeared, until I lived with them and saw the shank length, then tried to fix one that would not stay closed and broke the shank in the process.
The thumbtack design needed finessing, not replacing.
I now look at new RS askance because of the trucks/couplers appearance and unfriendliness. Thankfully I have all the RS that I'll ever need.
Daddy,I know it sucks but if I were you I would send them back.These pieces are high end.They should be right.JMO,Nick
Hi Nick,
No, I'm good took about 5 seconds!
Good news is I have a few other cars that had this issue. Now there are all fixed.
Definitely a fix to remember.
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