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Originally Posted by ChessieFan72:
Originally Posted by jaygee:

 What can I do for this thing ....short of converting it into a toaster???!


The obvious answer is to call Lionel Tech seupport...

The LW was last made in Post War years (I'll admit I don't know the date off the top of my head), so Lionel service will not likely have any suggestions.

 

I've not personally disassembled an LW, so can't offer any specific suggestions on a fix, sorry.

 

-Dave

Maybe there is nothing wrong at all. It was not designed for late model trains. The high start voltage is normal. You use A-U, or B-U posts? There could be some wire issues inside though.  There are several small gauge wires that become rotted over the years and maybe one is touching where it should not be. Could be one broke off. Does the lamp in the center of the handle light up?

Rob

According to the service manual, if you are using terminals A-U, what you are getting is normal for that transformer. Using terminals B-U should start at 0 volts. If this is not sufficient for your trains, then a newer transformer is needed. Most older transformers did not start at 0 volts because older trains had no electronics that needed them to do so.

 

Larry

Well, shaaaaaazam !!!   Wiring the ol' LW in "B-U" mode produces a most interesting result!  The whole thing runs backwards; not the train...but the transformer ! Yup, the lights get dimmer, and the scale works backwards.  Total weirdness...but the voltage does operate  at a close to zero start.  The whistle also causes a power interuption, thus functioning as a direction change!  Whadda yunz think about this?????

The greenberg manual says 6-20 on the A-U posts. 0-14 on the B-U posts. 

But I just tested mine and I get full voltage across B-U too. It is backwards across the reostat. I never tried to run mine on the B-u output. My LW starts at 7.7 volts on the A-U posts. Keep in mind, The A post is ground on these. Different from all other Lionel transformers.

Rob

 

quote:
CW

Please post the LW Service manual or operation sheet that states 7.5-15 volts AU.

Mine just talks about the bulb being 12-16 volt. Nothing about outputs on terminals.

The operations manual for LW is tough to find online



 

MY MISTAKE! It's 7.5 to 18.5 volts. I guess I should have waited till I was more awake to post. My apologies to anybody who may have used my bad information.

 

Look in the transformer table in the  test bench instruction manual

(page provided by Olsens)

My trusty, crusty 1033 never had any off these issues.  I've tried reversing the wires on the B-U posts with no effect...it's still bas-ackwards !   It can be run like this, but hey, I can't imagine Lionel ever endorsing such craziness!  My TMCC stuff is all packed up for the big move, so I'll be sticking with conventional operation.  Are U sure Gomez Addams never worked at Hillside???

What would need to be modified to enable the LW to successfully use the U-B connection....giving me the low voltage start?  I don't need high voltage at this time. Could this be done without ruining the transformer?  I'll be getting out my other equipment after the big move, but 'til then, it's LW or zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzZZzZ !!!! 

As has been mentioned, the LW was never meant to have a U-B connection.  Lionel transformers that have dual variable voltage ranges usually have the ranges displayed on the cover.

 

When I saw others saying to use B-U for a lower voltage range I thought maybe I was going to learn something (it's never too late), but no, it wasn't meant to be.

 

In my collection I have examples of all of Lionel's Postwar transformers and I like the LW and it's look, 125 watts and light.  I belive it was meant to be a modern replacment for the 110 watt RW for dual motored diesel sets with passenger cars.  The 1033, at 90 watts just couldn't safely handle it.

I find this particular wiring diagram a bit hard to follow, so I could be mistaken, but I believe the circuit breaker is in line with the "A" post. So using a combination that does not include the "A" post, such as "B" and "U" will bypass the internal circuit breaker, leaving the transformer unprotected.

Or am I misinterpreting the diagram?

If I remember correctly the 1033 puts out 16 volts. Didn't the LW come with 2 motor "O" gauge sets and the 1033 with single motor sets? I remember trying to run an F3 2 motor with a 1033....

 

Another common LW issue is if the flat of the "U" terminal sits below the top of the Bakelite cover you can loose continuity when you attach a wire to that terminal. It will pull the U terminal up away from it's  internal contact.

Originally Posted by Tranz4mr:

A-B is 18 Volts fixed. Ace can use B-U to get the hidden backwards rotation

B-U does not work effectively to provide variable track power. That puts the whistle boost winding in opposition to the variable winding. And as already mentioned, B-U bypasses the internal circuit breaker.

  

A-U   8-18vac variable
A-B  18vac fixed
A-C  14vac fixed

 

LWSchematic

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Last edited by Ace

Post war transformers start at about 7.5 volts for a reason. The e-unit operates stating at about 6.5 volts.  If the engine starts moving below this voltage, it will stop when the e-unit finally operates at 6.5 volts.  If the engine is operated with the e-unit cut out, the starting voltage can start at zero volts.  I believe that post war trains should be operated with post war transformers and modern trains should be operated with modern transformers.  

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