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I need some assistance here from the more technically inclined.

My trusty Lionel Metro North M7 (the original RTR, not the new Lion Chief set) powered cab car has decided to start derailing virtually every time it starts to negotiate a curve . It did this on my club layout’s Atlas O-72 and O-81 curves last week, and then proceeded to do the same jumping off the rails on my O-31 Real Trax Christmas layout this past week so the action can’t be attributed to either the radius or the track make.  It’s got so irritating that I’ve resorted to running the train in reverse (as seen on my YouTube video) just so I can see it run at length . The derailing only happens when the powered cab car is leading, not trailing. I miraculously got it to run normal on the Christmas 31x80 layout for about 2 minutes (luckily capturing it on video) but otherwise it jumps the track entering the curve on the near end or the far corner which are lot more fun.  There are no such issues leaving the corners for the straights.

I tried running it at both slow and fast speeds, figuring the fast speed would lessen the chance of a derailment but that isn’t the case, it's actually the opposite effect.  Help! 

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SIRT is certainly correct, weight is what keeps trains on the rails.  However, you might also check to see if anything is interfering with the ability of the lead truck to swivel freely - sometimes even wiring for ground or roller can bind up.  If the truck is held in the tangent track position, it'll derail on a curve and vice versa.

I have a M7 project in my queue, too, and will be interested to learn what the underlying problem and the ultimate fix is.

Good luck!

That is correct as well.
Its been so long since I bought the LIRR set, I forgot I also added to the wire length.
I discovered it because the wire insulation was getting cut by the wheel flange.
If it shorted out, that would have been a third issue.

Adding 2 lead fishing line sinkers under the front plastic shroud with silicone fixed the main derailing issue on my banked curves.
I had to add a metal rectangle plate - weight under the main section on the motor car also since it would slip on curves when using the 2 add ons.
I believe the full 6 car set was never tested by Lionel for trouble free operation.

Basically, it was a design oversite by Lionel.

lirr

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  • lirr
Last edited by SIRT

On the wire lengthening.  The set never had any of these issues since I purchased it.  Ran flawlessly for 6 months until the past week. Could it be that eventually the shorter wires installed eventually caught up with the trucks and now I'm experiencing these difficulties?  I will try my hand at the longer wires as you all have mentioned when I get back home.

BTW SIRT, I love that photo image.  It is now part of my screensaver collection

Last edited by Amfleet25124

Finally got around to making the adjustments on the M7 Cab this evening, and it now runs like a charm!  Thank you SIRT!!!

I used two 1/4 oz sinkers along with some peel-n-stick weights (that can be custom cut) from a Cub Scout Pinewood Derby accessories.  I didn't bother to mess with the wires as both sets on my cab car barely had any play at all. Here are some pictures:

 

M7 Jan 16 AM7 Jan 16 BM7 Jan 16 CM7 Jan 16 D

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  • M7 Jan 16 A
  • M7 Jan 16 B
  • M7 Jan 16 C
  • M7 Jan 16 D
Last edited by Amfleet25124

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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