Ok Norm - time for an updated video with the B unit included!
Your earlier video above is simply amazing - certainly looks like a real train in a real scene. Congratulations to your amazing display of talent sir!
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Thx a lot Sam. I will do another update when I finish my next batch of H21s. I just received the loads for them from Terry and Sue at Trainloads.com. I also started doing a bit more scenery on the layout too so I might not get to these for a few days.
Cool, now pull those BRIGHT cab lights!
After putting all that work I the cab, now make it dark?
Yeah, probably!
Thanks,
Mario
This is a great thread,Ive started 2 railing the Lionel sharks, lowering is next, thanks every one this has been a great help. Ill post pics in the 2 rail section when Im done. cTr....(Choose the Right)
Any idea if you're going to keep the dual vertical cans? Please let me know what you use to drill the frames as I smoked a few drill bits on this project..!
Norm How about some more layout photos !!
Norm Im probably one of the few 2 railers who dose not have a problem with vertical drives. This might be because I run DCS and TMCC and they run fine. Ill let you know how the drilling goes. cTr....(Choose the Right)
Thx guys, this has been an informative thread since I am thinking about picking up an ABBA set soon...
Iv'e finished two railing my Shark and lowering it, the plates seam to be different again from the ones pictured in this thread.
Norm I haven't encountered any difficulties drilling or taping holes, I use a hand drill or a slow speed on the drill press.
Nixed job is couplers etc. cTr....(Choose the Right)
That looks great!
I've been following this thread with great interest as I recently acquired a Lionel Century Club II PRR RF-16 ABA set. These are TMCC, but the shells are identical to the Legacy units.
I took apart the unpowered B to lower the unit and install Kadees. I would like to move the truck mounting plate to mount above the chassis. I can't figure out how to get the mounting plate off the truck. It does not just rotate for removal like the Legacy units. I figured I needed to take the truck "chassis" apart. I removed the 2 screws from underneath the truck "chassis" but I can't pry the halves apart. I even removed the roller mount screws. Any ideas or do I need a bigger hammer?
Bob
Thanks, Mario
You nailed it. 2 more screws were hiding under the plastic insulators under the rollers.
Bob
Here's the picture of the ATS shoe added to the front truck, and the three units together. I'm just finishing the powered B unit. Almost 4 feet of Legacy power!
Those sure look nice.
I weathered some more H21s and a half dozen Lionel GLas to drag behind these things:
Norm... Home run, kid!
I just posted your last Shark video on FB for a new guy interested in 3-RS.
Great video Norm, the entire scene is just perfect.
Norm - your railroad looks fantastic. I especially like the "old" ballast look of the right of way. Would you share with us what material you used?
Ed Rappe
Ed, thanks man! I am using Woodland Scenics fine cinders for ballast. This is actually a thin layer over screened play sand for filler between the ties. Can you believe I'm on my second 5 gallon bucket of sand for fill?
Norm, when can I send my stuff over for weathering?
ha!
thanks, Mario
Anytime, we can trade for parts...! I need parts for my RS11, Geepers, H16-44, etc...
Norm Charbonneau posted:Anytime, we can trade for parts...! I need parts for my RS11, Geepers, H16-44, etc...Legacy
Legacy GP7/9s?
Wow, those are nice! Maybe we can work a deal if you like my weathering!
How many can I get?
Norm Charbonneau posted:How many can I get?
All of them...
Mario
I have the CCII TMCC version of the sharks. The body and pilots are the same as the Legacy units, but the motor mounts are different. I don't see any way to easily lower the units. Not a big deal, but I do want to fix the pilots. They would look better if they were 1/8" lower. Do you have spacers that match the pilot contour available to purchase?
Bob
Bob,
thats cool! I wish more people would do this.
Can you post some pictures of the motors and mounts, as I have an idea.
Unfortunately, because of the compound curves, 3D printing is not a good choice for the spacer. What I would do is trace the pattern onto a sheet of styrene plastic and then trim it with a band saw, close to the size, and then use a sander to get it to match the contour.
Norm can share his formulae for the Brunswick green to match.
I forgot to mention that to set the height of the pilot off the rail, I use the lower steps / shelves of the Kadee coupler gauge. I try to keep them between the two. My Sharks still sit a little high, but the Fs and the Geeps are dead-nuts on.
Here they are. There is only 1/8" clearance between the flanges and the frame and also the brake cylinders and the frame. I thought about flipping the motor mounts to the top of the frame. It might clear the flanges running over perfectly level trackwork but . . .
Also my attempt would require grinding the threaded projections under the motor mount plate.
My plan B for the pilots was as you suggested. Thanks.
Norm
What was your paint formula to match the Brunswick green?
If anyone is in the market for Legacy PRR Sharks, don't overlook the CCII units. Unlike the Legacy set, the AA set has both units powered with smoke and sound, and each A Unit has a different multi chime horn. One is higher sounds and one is lower. Not sure if it's prototypical, but it is definitely cool when you blow them together!
Bob
This is where I shaved some height off the F7B's truck, its the contact point of the trucks and the frame...
It might not get you the full 1/8" that you're looking for, but it could be a start. Another trick could be to drop the shell over the frame, slightly too. This is what I had to do on the high-water F7B.
you might want to try and see if you can flip this plate:
That might be able to grab you a few mm, too.
The reason? only because the pilot matches right up to the contours on the shell nose, and adding a spacer is going to involve some design work to get it all to line up.
Moving the truck mounting plate to the top of the frame is exactly what Steven did above, and you can see it here:
Thanks,
Mario
Guys, my go-to Brunswick is/was my bottle of Polly Scale. I don't know if it would help you anyway on the CCII Sharks since those were Neal Schorr's favorite shade of Nauseation Green. I have a nice set of FA2s with that same shade and thinking about trying to match that has kept me from fixing the pilots on them.
Norm Charbonneau posted:Guys, my go-to Brunswick is/was my bottle of Polly Scale. I don't know if it would help you anyway on the CCII Sharks since those were Neal Schorr's favorite shade of Nauseation Green. I have a nice set of FA2s with that same shade and thinking about trying to match that has kept me from fixing the pilots on them.
In that case, if you can bring the shell over to an auto body paint supply shop, they should be able to match it optically using the laser tool.
Thanks Mario
I'll take a look at it this weekend.
Norm
I was not sure if your legacy sharks were darker than the CCIIs, or was it just lighting.
From your comments, Nauseation Green must be a lighter shade.
Neal, care to comment?
Bob
I'm finding it difficult to compare colors of Locomotives. Lighting affects the perceived color as much as the paint does. I had a set of Weaver PRR Sharks which were clearly darker and more correct than my CCII Sharks. Steve's CCII units are the same as mine, but with his lighting, they look a lot greener. I suspect that the Legacy units, like the Weavers, are darker and closer to the prototype.
Norm's Legacy:
My Lionel CCII:
(the rear Kadees are done!)
Steve's Lionel CCII:
Weaver:
Prototype:
Bob
Here's my TMCC FA2s weathered on my old layout. I think the weathering helps disguise the old army green that Lionel used to use for PRR DGLE.
Norm, stay tuned for updates on the FA-2s... We may be looking at a new cast pilot idea. Ron H. Is sending me a pilot off his Legacy PA to adapt to the FA and fill in the spacing, then cast. We'll see.
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