Lionel PRR RF-16s, 3RSinated

nope, Legacy.  The first gens had Legacy Railsounds5.5 and were road name / number specific; the new ones have Legacy RailSounds Lite, and have generic CrewTalk.

 

Not a big deal for me, as I don't care either way, as far as sounds, but difference in generations.

Interesting. The lock plate I have is dished.

After the Railsounds disaster, it's back together. For now.

Looks good Mario. What did you come up with for the rear Kadee mounts? I have mine set up but found out I couldn't couple the As too closely due to the solid diaphragms. I have both pilots filled and now I just need to mount the front couplers. I am sticking with 805s since they can grab Lionel knuckles when I need to.

 

What a nice shot Mario - the color on the coupler really stands out against the black....

Thanks, Sam! You always have nice things to say.

Norm, I've designed 3D printed pads that are designed to fit in the angled slots on the bottom of the pilot and designed to fit in the notch of the rail, and have the coupler box tab on the front to be even with the end sill.

It's going to be at least a week though before I can get you a set as  going away for work to Cleveland.

Thanks,
Mario

No worries, I am set on the front mounts. I may get it painted and weathered tonight if I feel ambitious enough...

 

Ab Fab!

Oh, if you've gone this far, notice that the smooth face of the pilot actuallu has a slight ridge down the center point.

http://s147.photobucket.com/us.../0807/PRR04.jpg.html

Just tring to help.

I think this is how these are going to roll. I'd like to wrap this project up and run them. I can deal with the seam in the pilot and I'm happy I was able to lower them. I'd like to fix the cab stirrups but I don't think it's even worth it. Here's the unpowered A before weathering:

 

 

Norm, Can you shoot a picture of them back to back with the spacing, and maybe the under side of them where you mounted the rear Kadee?

 

I'd like to see how the spacing looks and how far back you mounted the box...

 

thanks,

Mario

Mario, I set the box about 7/16" from the end of the frame (the part that projects underneath the diaphragm assembly). I shimmed it about 3/16".

 

 

Here are some shots of these bunched up and with the slack pulled out on a straight track, going through back to back #5 xovers, and on an O90 curve.

 

 

Now I have to finish my weathering job....

Nice job Norm!  If I ever decide to get a set of Sharks (they don't quite fit my era and locale) now I know how to do this.  Well done

Amazing NC!

You did indeed put them a lot farther back than I had originally drawn for my design. What I had done was measured to put the coupler box flange even with just inside the buffer, at the end of the frame.

Now that I see that one can successfully mount them farther back, I modified the drawings to put the boxes as far back as I can and not have truck interference. I cut the tabs from the trucks, as well.

What I've done, like some other designs is actually put two sets of holes in the spacer, and leave it up to the installer to choose which one to use.

You have been an indispensable asset to this project. Thanks for starting it!

Sincerely,
Mario

Mock up measures scale 53" between units and just under 21" between buffers.

Well fellas, these beasts are being put to work. Now I need to haul out more of my H21s so I suppose that may be my next project.

 

 

Here's a Yootoob:

 

 

You nailed it.

Nuff said.

Awesome!

Norm-

You need to add some Gla hoppers to the coal drag, plus an H31!

That is a homerun Norm, great work and what an improvement. 

Norm,

 

Did the rear unit get a Kadee on the business end?  I couldn't see it from any of angles in your video.  I could see the claw coupler of the hopper. 

 

How well do the Kadees and claws work together?  Can the Kadee uncouple or is it necessary to use the standard magnetic uncoupler?

 

Jan

Thanks guys..

 

Jan, these are fully Kadeed up. The 805 and its variants can grab most Lionel style couplers. I've had trouble trying to get them to hold onto some GGD ones though. You can uncouple the Kadee/fatty combo Most effectively by popping the Lionel coupler...

The locomotives, and the scene, are nothing short of awesome.

 

Regards,

Jerry Zeman

    

Norm, thanks for the info! 

 

I have only recently acquired some of the new 700 series Kadee couplers to experiment with.  I also have a couple of pairs of the Atlas 2-rail electromagnetic to also play with.  I am planning on converting a Railking Loco-Sounds Doodlebug to TMCC.  Only need to get an ERR Mini-Commander, but that will have to wait a couple of weeks.

 

Thanks again.

 

Jan

Norm,

The Bug's tires could use some Armor All!

C'mon...No way; Armor All was not around during the time period.

Just make sure that the spare in the front trunk has air so you can use the windshield washer fluid.  A miniature ice scraper on the front seat would also be prototypical nice touch for a VW from a northern climate.  Have to have one handy to scrape the frost off the "inside" windows.

I'd definitely be interested in what results you get with the Atlas "scale" electro-coupler. I had nothing but trouble with it, as you had to bang the crap out of it to get it finally close and latch. Maybe that was why Atlas took them off the market.

I remember scraping ice off the inside of my windshield on the way to school. My sister hated that so much she decided she'd rather ride the bus instead, ha!

 

Jan, I haven't tried any of the newer Kadees. I still need to grab Lionel style couplers quite a bit. I built my layout so all my switches and sidings are in reach from the edge, so I don't mess around too much with electrocouplers.

Hot Water,

 

I just purchased a couple of pairs directly from Atlas.  My biggest concern with them is the voltage and current that will be required to open them, and if a TMCC board can do it.

 

Jan 

I have the Gla hoppers ordered, just hope they are not painted Tootsie Roll turd brown.

 

Never really thought about getting H31s. I'm sure Weaver has something sorta close.

 

To get Shark-related again, I am watching some B units now. I wouldn't mind having a full ABBA set.

Although obviously they can be lowered more, I believe Lionel made some changes with the Legacy versions and they seem to ride lower than the TMCC models.

Nice, really nice and inspiring, Norm.  I am enjoying both the pics and the video.

 

I'm in the same boat with the GLa hoppers - sure hope Lionel gets the color (and everything else) right.

 

 

Norm:

Never really thought about getting H31s. I'm sure Weaver has something sorta close.

Intermountain/Atlas has 'em exact; they're USRA twins.

Powered B unit showed up today and seems to run well. No sound but it has smoke (promptly turned off), directional lighting (probably yank the plugs since I will run this with the same ENG ID as the lead A), and a rear electrocoupler (bye bye).

 

 

Looks a little too clean. I bet you have a cure for that!

I haven't dug out my powered B to lower yet, as I'm waiting on the CAD drawing of the coupler shims.

Thanks,
Mario

B unit now earning its keep.

 

 

The B unit is a great addition....

I finally finished putting the Kadees on mine, too. I'll have to get an airbrush eventually.





Thanks,
Mario

Cool, now pull those BRIGHT cab lights!