Lone Ranger Project - Changing from Wood to Coal

I can start by saying--don't cut it out. The screw hole posts are all connected to the inside top of the wood load. Cut the wood load and the shell will no longer connect to the tender bottom.

Scott Smith

I too have a Lone Ranger project in the works. But I just got my MTH loco and have yet to touch it. I was hoping you were further along!!! I can't help but think, yet to check, that the stack is not molded to the boiler....weather it's attached with a screw or press fit????

Are you going to replicate the extended boiler??? I think I will pass on boiler mods as it will make the project bigger than I want.....nobody will know anyway!!!

I really like the movie...saw it twice so far....

I'm not familiar with the construction of this particular locomotive, but anyone wanting

to take up Moto-Tool Madness is a guy after my own heart; I've worn out two Moto-Tools

"re-formatting" steam locomotives.

1 - the coal load is cast (zinc/Zamac) in one piece with the tender shell, is it not? There's

a place that a little "plastic cheapness" would have been welcome. Cut it out whether the

screw attachment holes are there or not. We'll solve this in a sec. Design your coal bunker

around the electronics (they may be tall, hence the tall wood...). Build it. If you need

them, make new mounting posts for the original/similar screws; use -square- styrene rod or,my favorite, square basswood dowel of a dimension adequate to manage a hole and the original screws with strength. Mount them using Walther's Goo or equivalent (epoxy will not stick to styrene well) in the original locations inside the tender body. Screw the tender shell back on. Voila! Take it back off, paint and letter, put back on, be proud.

2 - the stack can be replaced with brass tubing; styrene might melt or deform from the 

smoke unit heat. Check out eBay for "brass" and "parts"; you might find something.

(That reminds me, I need some headlights...) If not, cut the stack just below the cinder

catcher (the big part) and leave the smaller base. Try to find thin brass tubing that will

fit over it. Epoxy 2 or 3 washers (different sizes) to the top of the stack, then epoxy the

bottom of the tube over the existing stack stub.

3 - automotive Bondo is good for filling voids and shaping areas, like around the base

of your new stack, should you want to finesse it.

Or variations on all the above. Enjoy yourself; relax. It's only a model. Really.

The die cast one peice tender will be a pain but not impossible. I just finished a Toy Story III loco using the Lionel General and while the tender comes apart and is plastic a similar change will be needed on the Lone Ranger loco......

The Lionel wood load is rubber and just pops out....but a whole new tender deck was made from plastic stock. The MTH tender is a bit different than the movie version....so it may be easier to build a new body anyway....

So many things have been coming up over the summer that potentially delay most things I try to start.....but yes, the stack is in fact molded on, and I plan on keeping the boiler as is to keep it from looking misshapen. The tender I don't mind making extensive changes to since the coal load that will come on later will hopefully hide any roughness done.

I also plan on keeping the headlight as is for the time being.

BTW Dave, awesome looking Toy Story engine, it makes a load of difference with the separate wood load.

Thomas, remove the screws on the tender body and take a pic of what the underside of the shell looks like....we're looking for screws that hold the wood load in...or something.

 As has been said, you'll have to make a new "top" for a coal load, but that could be easy...could....depending on how that wood load is attached.

Depending on how the stack is attached that can be easily redone too using a brass tube with plastic rings on it shaped to the contour you want....could use pics of how that stack mounts to better understand it's mounting too. 

The tender mods made a big difference. The other change makes an even bigger change...but is harder to spot!!

Removing the odd bay window from the cab front really helps this old loco......

I may try and pull my MTH loco out and look at it some...maybe I have some ideas.

Scott Smith

Scott,

The last photo is pretty much exactly how my mind pictured the final outcome, save the paint scheme and roadname. The stack is exactly the way it should be, as is the headlight for the most part.

Easier as it is to modify the coal load, it does look a bit odd with it being so high. IDK, maybe it's just me....

Scott tell us how you changed the stack?!?!?

I have a question, where was the water put in the tender, or was it just in the engine somewhere in those old steam kettles?

John,

The tender contained the water tank (except for tank engines of course). These tenders are simply cheap shortcuts done by both Lionel and MTH.  They have simply chosen to mis-model them.

It all started with the GENERAL's conversion to an oil burner prior to the Civil War Centennial.  The L&N used a fake wood load to hide the oil tank and the fact that they nearly hollowed out the tender installing it.  For reasons known only to themselvels, they hid the water fill opening under the fake wood load as well.

Lionel copied the faked tender for their GENERAL model and MTH copied Lionel and so it goes - the creation of a railroading myth.

Most of the 19th Century models produces by these two firms are heavily "mythological".

Scott tell us how you changed the stack?!?!?

I used brass tubing for the stack. I cut it on the bottom into four tabs and bent them up as I pushed it through the inside of the shell.  I used epoxy to attach it the inside top of the shell.

Scott Smith

Thanks Dave, it always bugged me, now I know.

John P

I think the Williams 4-6-0 is far closer in appearance to the LR engine. The wagon top of the RK engine definitely ruins the look for a LR version.

I agree with smd4.  I'd start with the WBB ten-wheeler.  I've modified/bashed a couple and its a sweet engine to work with.  Already looks pretty much like your target loco.

The problem with the Williams one from my viewpoint is:

A) No command control capabilities without buying an upgrade kit.

B) The tender looks NOTHING like the 1860's models used in the film.

I have two of the WbB 4-6-0 locos so I went there first too......but all the running boards will have to be cut off and replaced and it had it's own number of detail issues that made me go with the MTH unit too.

Scott

I'm not sure if MTH modified the tooling, but it does show that only the two rear screw hole posts are actually attached to the wood load, and they're also molded into the corners.

I'm also curious what type of brass tubes you bought and or where you got them from. I took a trip to Home Depot and Lowes, and they don't seem to have what I need to get the coal-smokestack.

You can get all sizes of brass tubing at a hobby or train shop. You might even be able to get it a a craft shop like Michaels.

Steve,

I'll check my local Micheal's when I get the chance then.

I'm guessing the diameter of the tube to fit would be about 5/8 of an inch to fit?

Confirm a size you think you need and if I have it in my stockpile I'll send you some....enough to do it.  The craft stores stock some but mostly brass wire stock....no big tubes.

Thanks much Dave, I really appreciate the help

I'm going to best guess the height needed is about 1 and 5/8 inches tall, not counting the "lip" which will have to come later.

Did you get the brass for the stack??? Any update??

Dave,

Sorry for not updating sooner - things in my life got really hectic in the last few weeks. I got the tubing, so thank you very much. I've currently getting my engine programmed to my club's DCS system, so I can get started on the tender soon. (I've already started cutting the stack)

OK Thomas......I got the Lone Ranger BluRay this week so I am looking at a LR project again......hows yours coming?????

Go get a decent brass casting for a stack from Precision Scale.  Wiseman Model Services shold also carry something suitable.  Either is better than a brass tube.

It got some progress since August, mostly to the engine, but Christmas season and registering for college classes for the Spring of 2014 is REALLY taking its toll on me. I apologize for not updating this thread as I really want to go through with it, and I really hope I can make some progress after the holiday season and everything school wise is straightened out.

BTW, I too am getting the Lone Ranger on DVD this holiday season...