I have a Marx 666 Train that needs some repairs. It has quit going forward. Goes in reverse OK. Looking for a resource that can offer some guidance on how to repair what probable is the cause (1239 transformer).
Thanks in advance JD
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I have a Marx 666 Train that needs some repairs. It has quit going forward. Goes in reverse OK. Looking for a resource that can offer some guidance on how to repair what probable is the cause (1239 transformer).
Thanks in advance JD
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I am not aware of any service documents per say or a book/collection that covers it all, but Olsen's freely hosts copies of the parts lists:
http://www.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=2054
As for servicing Marx motors, they are all pretty simple open frame AC motors. Here is a textual page of generic information:
https://dfarq.homeip.net/marx-999-repair-and-service/
Here is a video that has gone farther than most need to go with servicing these:
This one is a little more down to earth:
Here is a link to a Marx parts dealer: http://www.trainpartsformarx.com/shoppingcart.htm
Your best bet is to tap into the forum members here by posting pictures and questions in the HI-RAIL, O27 AND TRADITIONAL 3-RAIL O GAUGE forum.
Here's the precise video you need:
Good luck!
Mitch
Thanks Mitch. I appreciate the feedback and the video.
@bmoran4 posted:I am not aware of any service documents per say or a book/collection that covers it all, but Olsen's freely hosts copies of the parts lists:
http://www.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=2054
As for servicing Marx motors, they are all pretty simple open frame AC motors. Here is a textual page of generic information:
https://dfarq.homeip.net/marx-999-repair-and-service/
Here is a video that has gone farther than most need to go with servicing these:
This one is a little more down to earth:
Here is a link to a Marx parts dealer: http://www.trainpartsformarx.com/shoppingcart.htm
Your best bet is to tap into the forum members here by posting pictures and questions in the HI-RAIL, O27 AND TRADITIONAL 3-RAIL O GAUGE forum.
Thanks! This was great. I was loosing some enthusiasm because it seems I was running into roadblocks every where I went. This information will take me a long ways. I have not had this train out since I was 12. I an now 77 and have got interested again especially since my Grandson who is 11 wants to someday take over for me and keeping this baby moving. Again thanks for all the information. JD
@M. Mitchell Marmel posted:Here's the precise video you need:
Good luck!
Mitch
Mitch I appreciate the feedback. This video will help if I cannot get it going both directions. Right now it is stuck going backward. When it is going around the track it is doing a lot of sparking as it moves along the rack. Got any idea if this is an issue or is it OK. JD
@Hawk-i posted:Thanks Mitch. I appreciate the feedback and the video.
Thanks! This was great. I was loosing some enthusiasm because it seems I was running into roadblocks every where I went. This information will take me a long ways. I have not had this train out since I was 12. I an now 77 and have got interested again especially since my Grandson who is 11 wants to someday take over for me and keeping this baby moving. Again thanks for all the information. JD
I do have another question. Since you were so helpful on my last question I will ask you about the other concern I have. The track is very old as well but not a lot of rust.I was wondering what you recommend to clear it. I read on post and they soaked it in vinegar for 24 hours and then cleaned it. I tried that and it only make it worse. JD
Oh gosh! Vinegar is probably not the best treatment. I suggest CRC 2-26 or GooGone for removing the thin layer of gunk that forms on track. Some stubborn track could use some scotchbrite and then the wipe down with the above. Some sparking is to be expected with dirty track and wheels. Again, CRC 2-26 or GooGone work there as well.
Very cool
CRC electrical contact cleaner works too. Might as well spray the brush & armature clean, flush & oil bearings,armature,etc... and flush the R-unit. The points may simply be varnished or dirty. (Marx calls it an R unit, Lionel calls it an E-unit)
Don't use steel wool, the scotchbrite dust is nonmagnetic. A brass brushwheel on dremel or drill is ok too if you clean off layout.
Clean the loco wheels and pickup too (don't expect Marx drivers to stay real shiny)
Think about new track. Trains do run better on new stuff, better track connections, etc.. Menards online track is pretty cheap, worth a look, and more heavy duty than Marx (larger pin/tube& taller, has to be forced to work with the old or you need O to 0-27 pins.). Sometimes there is stock at stores out of holiday seasons.
I would clean the top surfaces of the track where the train wheels go with fine sand paper and hit the other parts of the rails with a hand wire brush. Real train tracks are mostly rusty tool.
Charlie
Generally sandpaper is to aggressive and will take the tin plating off. If a scotchbrite won't touch it, get new track.
BETTER, if possible, to just replace the track, rather than attempt a laborious cleaning regimen. You probably could also find some good condition used track for a reasonable cost. :-)
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