Skip to main content

Looking for ideas on how to make signs for ROW such as control point names, “BEGIN C.T.C.” , intermediate number plates, etc..

I tried printing with matte photo paper, and not much luck.   Example below.7ACED728-FB88-47C9-A564-6CA0A34B72A3

I am sure others have some great ideas for this!

Thanks,

Mike

Attachments

Images (2)
  • 5244BA1F-E6E7-47DC-892D-D72667655612
  • 7ACED728-FB88-47C9-A564-6CA0A34B72A3
Last edited by Hump Yard Mike
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

As others have said I think they look nice as is. Also, as suggested above I think they may be improved by gluing to a strip of thin hobby wood, styrene, thin foam board, etc. Not sure how thin you can get foam board though? And I am not that familiar with card stock, but maybe that too. Michael's or Hobby Lobby would probably have most of these things and probably more.

Maybe a label maker would make suitable signs? Might be easier to attach to a backing material with the sticky on back already applied? I have a Brother labeler that comes in handy for a lot of things, although I have not tried it for making any layout signs. There are also many different sizes and colors of labels and text available. Bad part of this, the labeler is like razors & blades or printers & ink. The refills cost more than the label makers themselves!

  Brother lable makers are pretty cool. It's a clear or colored rectangle/square sticker without some work though.  I don't recall what the smallest font or tape size is but they are kinda nice. Smooth, shines; more like painted steel.

  I think a high gloss paper is what I'd try using.  Your possibly seeing paper grain and that could be part of the real issue; it should not have graining. It should be smooth and flat as can be.

  On some thinner papers your background color could possibly effect the overall tone light or dark or a color tint. So if you're getting a washed out look to overlay lettering, you either have to darken the whole base background, or do some loose fill color on the base surface , by hand to help darken it.

  For a surfaced wood edge I’d laminate and then trim at a beveled angle with new exacto blade and straight edge; so the face is ever so slightly smaller than the back, then use brown edges. Metal I'd cut for90° edges and use black and or silver edges. It would be hard to align the precut paper and get nice flush edges and no "step" at the papers edge. I consider a burnishing roller my buddy for laminating; from graphics to countertops

Mike your signs look fantastic! And I appreciate your effort and concern and wanting to improve them and make them look as good as you can. However, you may want to consider what they look like in real life. Working for the railroad you know. How many signs have you seen out along the right away that look perfect? Everyone I have seen is really beat up weathered dented Etc. You may want to consider a more realistic look??? I don't know whether you're that concerned with a realistic appearance or if you just want to make it look like a museum quality model?  Your call.  :-)

Last edited by John C.

Add Reply

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×