Need advice on getting started.

Hello, nice to see you are getting back into the hobby. If you need a transformer a Lionel CW-80 would do if you are going to run only Lionel trains. If you are considering any MTH engines then an MTH Z-1000 would be better.

You mentioned that the engine has some rust on it, try some light weight oil(3 in 1 oil or Labell's # 107 oil) on the rust and see what it does, it may clean the rust off. Try to use either 027 or O gauge track until you get the feel of things, don't rush in and buy a new track system. Also do you have power lockons for the track?

Lee Fritz

Looks like you've got a good start!  I agree that the CW-80 would do nicely for the roster you have.  Here's a link to the owner's manual from Lionel: https://www.lionelsupport.com/...ents/71-4198-251.pdf.  The speed control for the trains is built into the unit so no other controller is required.

If the oil fails to remove the rust from the rails, try a Scotchbrite scouring pad.  Don't use steel wool, it can get caught in the ties and cause shorts.  The plastic fibers of the Scotchbrite pads can also get caught in the ties, but it's easier to see and remove them.  Above all don't mix O and O27, you'll get a non-circular circle. 

As for your locomotive, please clean and lubricate it before running it. There are few things worse than dried old lubricant.

A wire wheel brush in a bench top grinder may work wonders on your existing track. 

Maybe you already have them or know this, but there are clips you can buy to keep your tubular track sections from coming apart if you just want to lay your track on the floor for a temporary christmas tree layout. 

I think you are making the right decision to try and pass this hobby/tradition on to your kids. Good luck.

I would toss out that track and buy some Fastrack. Not worth the effort to clean that old stuff as you can buy tubular track dirt cheap these days... and its already clean.

The Heartland Express was the very first set I purchased, in 1977 when I returned to the hobby.  Take the suggestions from previous posters and run with it.  Good luck with your layout.  Please post pictures when you have it all set up. 

unless the track has been on the Titanic, is is easy to clean, some mid grade emery paper or sandpaper (no cost there), and there is a Postwar 1034 transformer in the for sale forum for $12 (little cost, great transformers).

I think getting fast track is better and will last longer than the Old track is now with cleaning it. Welcome aboard, I would also think getting a Lionchief set from Lionel would be a great idea for the kids. 

That's a nice collection.  I'm sure your kiddo's will be very appreciative of it; unlike my toddler. 

here's what the original box layout photo looked like. The O27 track is most likely what came with the set. It will have a lower rail height than O track.

2 curves, a full straight, 2 curves is the width. Looks like a perfect size for under the tree.

I believe the engine is a 6-8772 GP-20. Only one made in 1977 was the GM & O. I can't post the service documents as I don't have them handy. Most likely, it will need some oil.

Just run a fine scothbrite pad on top of the rails and wipe with some alcohol. Check the pins to make sure they are not corroded.

get some power and put it together and see what you have!

Ok, I am getting better at digging through the old docs. here's a parts diagram and list for the engine should you need any.

I agree with most of the rest to clean the track and use it. Fast track gets expensive real quick. It's a good use if your just wanting to put something down around the tree but if and you probably will want to make a permanent or semi-permanent layout you may want to then consider what track line to use ( there is many ) Which will do best for you. 

Welcome back into the Hobby, and enjoy it. 

   The track you have will likely do fine. Only the tops and inner sides of the 2 outside rails need be cleaned well on the surface. Pins and track pin holes inspected for corrosion too though. You can use O and 0-27 can be used together by adaptor pins, or manipulating the rails pin holes with pliers. The adaptor pins make it easy. It normally gets better with use too.

If it's going on the floor, tubular scratches, and plastic roadbed track is very loud, you'll need a rug . On a table? Use thick wood, thick foam , homasote, etc.etc. to quiet it. (Tons of threads)

   If the old track pins themselves have a slit from being hollow, rolled metal pins (crushable with pliers) vs being solid pins, chuck the hollow ones for solid pins especially on the center rails.

 Those hollow pins tend to rust from the inside out and when they do are unable to deliver as much power across the pin. The center rail only has one pin and therefore half the conducting metal as the 2 outer rails combined. So adding at least the one solid pin to the center is a good idea . Those pins on the center rail can get blistering hot from the resistance if weak. Soldering jumpers onto the rails right across joints isnt too hard. You can alternatively do that if the holes and pins are in poor shape. Wire can also be soldered right to the rails foot if you don't have or don't want lock-ons. Add a power feed about every 3-4' for smoother operation. Also one feed on each leg of a turnout (switch track). Power passes through the switches, but not very well really, better to jump a better feed across them.

If you have a whistle/horn check to see that it will function properly on a CW-80. Not all old style whistles do well on newer transformers, and not all new whistles do well on old transformers. A old one modified with a diode stands the best chance at all around function. The big difference is a 5v boost on old whistle transformers to compensate for the increased load of the rather energy hungry steam whistle motor. Newer whistles are electronic, or use a lightweight can motor, so they don't need the boost and so the feature got dropped. Another mod could bypass the boost if not needed too.

  The 1033 family of transformer is the smallest I'd look at from post war. With expansion in mind, a KW or ZW of any era, or picking up multiple smaller ones as you go.(must be phased for 2 or more, not hard at all)

   The LW is the coolest small transformer imo. Lots of amps, whistle/horn, reverse button, and a very cool lighted dial.

Check your wheels. Some cars of the era have plastic wheels. You can swap in metal ones for better performance and it adds more weight keeping them railed better.

  O-27 puts a limit on the size trains you can run, think hard about using the switches in a freight yard and going 0-31 or larger. The larger the curve the larger the locomotive and cars to be run. That GP or an RS loco would be about as big as 0-27 allows.

Look at Menards tubular. Nothing beats new track and the price is very nice.

If you are going to buy new, and not stay low cost tubular, you should really also consider GarGraves or similar track, especially if you might prefer a more realistic look in the end.

I would clean the old track or replace it with newer tubular track.

Fastrack is very much over rated, it gets dirty quick and has electrical issues, at least the Fastrack I had was extremely bad to work with. Don't try to do any free lance track work with Fastrack either as it needs a track plan to go by because of fluctuations or not bending of the track. Also the expense of Fastrack will have your head spinning; $5.00 per section even for the 1.25 inch section and the switches are around $100.00 each. Please read forum posts on here about Fastrack switches! Most of all make an informed purchase or you may be sorry!

If you feel that you bought the wrong track you might be stuck with it. Prices for used track are very very low, around 5 cents on the dollar if that good.

Lee Fritz

I would toss the track unless you just want to try it out first.

2 screws will remove the engine body and 2 screws will remove the brush plate so you can clean out the old and regrease with new. If you carefully pull the brush plate straight up you can do it without unsoldering anything. Some lube with motor oil but I still prefer a nice coat of plastic compatible white grease.

Thank you all for the extremely fast and comprehensive replys. In all seriousness, I don't think I have ever been on a forum that was so quick to answer questions.

Thank you for all the transformer suggestions. I'll spend more time researching each one to make the right purchase. As far as the track goes, I'll inventory what I have along with the pins. Thanks for the heads up on hollow pins rusting from the inside out! I'll have the kids help with the track cleaning process to give them some investment in the project (I'll be double checking their work). I'll probably stick with the O gauge and look to pick up some more to finish out the track. I don't have any track connectors so I will pick some up once I know what my needs will be. There is a local train store fairly close. I will see if they do any servicing and take my engine there first before I try to run it myself. 

Once things are up up and running I'll toss up some pictures or a video. 

Thank you all once again.

If you go with cleaning the track remember to clean out the open end of the track as the pins must also make contact there. No track lockons not a problem. Turn the track over, open the rails with a screwdriver push the wire in and pull the screwdriver out.. Your in business.

I'm sorry to disagree, however, I strongly urge you to purchase almost any modern transformer - except the Lionel CW-80.

The CW-80 has a problematical history and does not work properly many MTH engines, and perhaps engines from other manufacturers, that you may purchase in the future. You'll face enough challenges simply because so much has changed since you last were in the hobby that it's silly to add any additional challenges that can be easily avoided.

Lionel, MTH and others manufacture very nice, detailed engines, rolling stock and accessories. However, at the risk of being labeled as biased, I would strongly recommend almost any of MTH's transformers as being your best bet. They're compatible with just about any modern engine that you're likely to purchase down the road. While Lionel makes a very nice line of brick-type power supplies that are well-suited for operating engines in a command control environment, these power supplies lack the control facilities (throttle, horn/whistle, bell, and direction control) that are required to operate your existing, conventionally controlled, engine.

Regarding track options, I'd suggest initially cleaning-up and using what you have. That will let you get started running trains sooner while leaving you time to explore other track systems from Lionel, MTH, Atlas O, Gargraves, Ross, and others before making a commitment to any one track system.

Best of luck in your return to the world's greatest hobby!