Need Help wiring Fastrack turnouts

The thru, out and gnd will go to the toggle.

The yellow wire or RSC powers the light. gunrunnerjohn just helped someone with that. I'll see if I can find the thread.

Awesome thanks

I found a suggestion from him on another thread:

"You can, or course, drive a red/green LED or a pair of LED's right from the yellow signal lead with a series resistor, it's a bi-polar signal for the two switch positions."

I would email him and ask for the schematic for the red/green single Led.

gunrunnerjohn is his forum name.

Here is a simple diagram using two LEDs. A bipolar red/green would replace the two LEDs shown. The Fastrack RSC output is +5 vdc for green (thru) and -5 vdc for red (out). The 100 ohm resistor limits the current into the LEDs to about 25ma.

Stapes,

How do you envision mounting these? Digikey would have what you need immediately. eBay Asian sellers would be cheaper and 2-3weeks to arrive.

Here's a collar to hold a 5mm led  in the panel and here's the led.  The ground can come off of the toggle ground which comes from the switch terminal. The power is the RSC terminal.

5mm is an engine headlight size for a reference.

cjack-these are 20ma leds, so I get a 250ohm resistor is needed. Is that correct?

The LEDs drop about 2 vdc so maybe about 150 Ohms would be good for 20 ma.

Thanks, cjack. I didn't want see them fried as one side will always be on.

So, how do you connect the power to the three leads on the LED? Split the hot to each outside leg? I'd like to know also. The anode is the center on these according to the data sheet.

The three leaded LED won't work simply for the Fastrack switch wiring.

I drew two discrete LEDs, but there is a bipolar LED that looks just like the drawing I made but in one package...two leads, one common and the other from the resistor to RSC. For this LED...

http://www.digikey.com/product...1080-1116-ND/2675607

...the green cathode is on the flat side of the package. So put common on the flat side and the RSC on the other.

Also, I have always felt that two separate LEDs have deeper red and green color as opposed to the bipolar red/green ones. And just for the information, if you put AC on a bipolar LED, it will look orange.

Stapes,

    Sense you are just getting back into the hobby you might want to consider the new FasTrack Command Control switches.  They are low voltage and work great from track power when set up correctly.  If you want to run the LED signal type lights fine, however you would not really need them, I simply place the manual controller track side by each FT CC Switch with the correct lighted number in them and everything works great.  I then use the Cab2 to operate all my switches.  If you already have the Cab1 it will do the switch operation job also.  My suggestion is to upgrade your switches to Command Control, it works great.

PCRR/Dave

Stapes, I forgot to mention that you need momentary SPDT toggles. Push and release to switch or you will burn out the motors with an on\off hold type.

cjack,

Thanks, that makes it easy. I only thought the one led would help keep the 14 switches and lights compact on his control board.

I think something like this would work.

http://www.digikey.com/product...BBNN/CH757-ND/446023

Fits in a .5" by .75" panel opening. It appears to rock back to center(off)

Here are some round hole mtg ones...

http://www.digikey.com/product...id=0&pageSize=25

Stapes,

Is your board built yet? What's taking so long?