Mark, I am with the guys as you have a great running engines and such smooth track! As for the Hotel I love the view, I think with a parking lot with a little grass area between the edge and the parking love for folks to sit and watch the trains go by! I will be keeping an eye out for all your updates!
Thank you, Bob, Gene, Bob, Mike!
@endless tracks Bob, the track is GarGraves and the switches are Ross Custom Switches. Yes, I must have sold a half dozen engines over a couple years mostly to pay for the track and switches. I have about 12 engines to run on the layout, so that’s more than enough! 😃
@RSJB18 Bob, yes all the engines can pull that many and a few more up the grades. That is except the passenger trains. Those cars are heavy and I have a matching vista dome on the way.
Gene, that is a temporary location for the engine house, though near the engine facility and station isn’t a bad idea. My intention for the spot it is on now is for parking for a few cars and trucks at the station. After the hotel lift up is well on its way, I intend to build a couple lift ups or lift outs for over the South Yard and put a small town there, including the fire house.
Mike, your ideas for the hotel scenery sound great!! Why not gain a few guests who are train watchers! 👍🏻
Thank you for the comments!
Thanks Mark. I thought it may have been Gargraves. I think my local guy can order it in, but then I'll need a real plan. I really need to make some decisions once I start to rebuild here. As for motive power, I guess I have around 30 locos and I have one more on preorder. Easy to get hooked!! Buying a SAAB Viggin convertible in May to buzz around in probably would have bought a lot of track....priorities, ya know!
Wow!! Mark, you just reached 100 pages of posts!! What an accomplishment. A wealth of knowledge for those who are just starting out in the hobby, and for those who have been in the hobby for decades. Congratulations.
Great progress on the new lift up section, and I thoroughly enjoyed the layout tour video.
Looking forward to the next 100 pages…
@Mark Boyce posted:Thank you, Bob! I remember those scenes, but forgot about the methods you used for removing!!
Railfanning views from the hotel.
Does the hotel charge a premium for rooms that have a trackside view?
They should charge more!
Thanks for the video Mark, you have some great runs. The engine pulls up the grade with no issue. That’s the resu;t of good planning, well done.
Andy
Thank you, Bob, Edward, Mallard, Andy!
Bob, I hope you like the Saab! It sounds like a cool ride. Yes, a car definitely hits the budget! I didn't want to have to replace the 20-year old Hyundai last month, but sometimes you have to.
Mallard and Andy, yes those rooms do go for a premium price! 
Thank you everyone on the observations on the train running.
I started this thread on January 8, 2017 looking for some assistance on designing a layout that would fit some of my hopes in a relatively small space for O gauge. I wondered how well the request would be received. In the last 6 years and 9 months I have been totally overwhelmed that there would be this much interest! Forum members have contributed track plans, suggestions, constructive criticisms, ideas, questions, and praises on what turned out to be 4 different plans that I started building, but realized didn't suit my hopes. This current layout, which I am happy with is the culmination of so many forum members contributions! Though I am building the layout by myself, I could not have hoped to have achieved what I have without all of you!!
I noticed that we had reached 100 pages with Mike's response, but just gave him a 'Like' at the time. @Edward G wrote it so well when he put the observation into writing.
@Edward G posted:Wow!! Mark, you just reached 100 pages of posts!! What an accomplishment. A wealth of knowledge for those who are just starting out in the hobby, and for those who have been in the hobby for decades. Congratulations.
Looking forward to the next 100 pages…
There is a wealth of knowledge, and it has been a group effort. I had modeled in HO and N scales since I was about 12, but O gauge 3-rail along with DCS, TMCC, Legacy was still fairly new to me. Also, trying to fit a fun layout into a small space in a scale that takes up much more real estate that HO was a real challenge. All of you have helped!!
100 PAGES! WHOO_HOO!!!!!
I've been here from the beginning. Happy to think I've helped along the way. Looking forward to the next 100 pages too!
Congrats Mark! Your perseverance should be commended.
Bob
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Mark,
Congrats on all your accomplishments, both here on the the Forum and right in front of you at home on your layout. I had noticed this morning when going back to follow one of your threads that it was on page 99.....and I thought WOW!!!
I saw a pic of your new car (or your old one....not sure) and it spawned the SAAB comment. It's 20 years old, too, but on purpose. Less GM influence in those older ones, if you know what I mean.
I hope you're going for 200 pages, since I'm just getting to know folks here and you're one I follow!
Bob
Look’n pretty good Mark. Can’t wait you get to the “sloppy” stuff, I.e., ballasting the beast and and start playing with plaster. Enough playing with trains. Time to get down to business.
Thank you, Bob @RSJB18, Bob @endless tracks, Myles!!!
Yes indeed, Bob RSJB18 I do remember you have been here from the beginning. What a ride it has been; more like a roller coaster than a train ride!! It seems there is growing interest in another 100 pages! Well, I certainly would like to be here discussing the layout progress for that long too! You have offered so many good ideas!
Bob endless tracks, I'm glad you have joined in the conversation and hope you can stay with us that long as well. I follow a lot of great folks here. One thing nice all you have to do is pull up their profile and click on the 'bell' to follow and see all new topics the particular member posts. Looking at my list, I see a few folks who have passed away. 
Yes, the photographs are of the 2006 Chrysler Sebring I bought from a young friend at a local dealership. After having 2 cars that I have run until they rusted away, I bought something "new" Since Carfax proved it had been serviced in Florida all but the first 3 years, that explains it's great shape. I hope you run the 20-year old SAAB a long time!
Myles, you are right about getting to business on the sloppy stuff! Following your lengthy topic for years, I have picked up more tips than I can remember about the sloppy stuff and structure building. Thank you for all the detailed explanations!! I sure didn't expect it to take almost 7 years to get this far, but here we are and all is well!!
Hi Mark,
Congrats on hitting the 100 page mark! Though I haven't been here since the beginning, I've enjoyed seeing the progress on your layout. Thanks for sharing this journey with us. Looking forward to seeing where you go from here.
John
Thank you, John! I certainly appreciate you following along!!
Great job Mark. Thanks for 100 pages of interesting train information and for always being willing to help.
Thank you, Bill! Speaking of folks always willing to help; you certainly helped me a lot!! Thank you!!
I purchased a small piece of Styrofoam yesterday at Lowe's. I'll try out the suggestion of lifting it off, building and all, to avoid the seam in the scenery between the stationary layout and the lift up for access to tracks below. I didn't want to buy a whole sheet, and every piece I already have are of odd shapes that won't work. I don't think I can handle a section as long as the whole lift up. If I keep the weight of the scenery down, I could set it down on the bridge top if nothing else. Of course I need to cut the corner out in a curve to follow the track. It's just an experiment for now to see how it works out.
The aisle between the layout and the wall is 28 inches and the door opening is 27-1/2 inches. There isn't a lot of wiggle room.
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Thanks Mark! The 20 YO SAAB only has 82K on it. I park it next to my 19YO Tundra with 368K on it!!
I'm curious about the use of styrofoam in/on layouts. I haven't tried it yet. I suppose spray can foam may make some interesting moguls to paint or stick brush or trees in. Next layout is when I'll be trying out different things. My previous layout was all run on soft pine boards, (tongue and groove rough saw siding) which I liked a liked because it's light weight, deadens sound a bit, easy to work and you easily put a screw in it anywhere. I tried 3/4" plywood and it was miserable.
Bob, The 17 (almost 18) year old Sebring has 84,000.
I have used both extruded Styrofoam and the spray can insulation foam in the past, both with success. I built a lift off scenery module on my N-scale layout from the late '80s to early '90s entirely of foam. I had an end turn-back loop of about 30" x30" made of extruded Styrofoam for the base, then I made a form around it for the sides and sprayed the foam on it. I did a little manicuring of the tops of the moguls and put an extensive farm scene on it. It was easy to lift off and set on the floor to get to the track underneath. Of course, I had a little more floor space and I was a lot more limber then. For other landforms on that layout and an HO layout later, I carved extruded Styrofoam and covered it with latex paint and ground foam. I also draped plaster soaked towels over the more roughly carved foam as well. For me, all of these methods beat the old web of cardboard strips or chicken wire covered with plaster soaked grocery bags I read about doing when I was a teenager.
The tongue and groove soft pine sounds like that would be nice to work with. I used about anything I could get my hands on building this layout. Some was easy, and some didn't work so well, but I kept the cost down.
Congratulations on achieving a remarkable following on your layout build. It's easy to see why it has been so popular as I too am drawn to see your latest progress. Thanks for sharing it with us all and keep going.
Art
Art, many thanks!!
I am still amazed that so many folks like this thread. I am going to venture a guess that we are working through basic problems the average layout builder faces. I am not showing any great skills here, though folks do seem to like my neat wiring. 😃
Mentioning that, I was just thinking last evening that I have recovered enough to wire the newest DZ1000 switch controllers on the upper level near the two windows. Along with that, I want to arrange the push buttons to at least two local panels with track arrangements shown. Maybe I should continue with the ‘messy stuff’ as Myles called it for a while and tackle the wires this winter. 🤷♂️
If you are anything like me, I feel like I have endured all the phases of construction in order to get to the scenery phase, which I enjoy the most. I'm not claiming to be good at it, but I enjoy doing it. The other thing I enjoy is having friends over to share the layout with. I keep trying to improve my operating sessions so that they are:
- More realistic
- More fun
- Less stressful
All my friends have been patient and tolerant during my learning curve with all this and I truly appreciate that.
Art
Hi mark, My trains are on the wall just like yours with KV standards & brackets, but my shelves are 4' 1/4" plate glass.
@Mark Boyce posted:I purchased a small piece of Styrofoam yesterday at Lowe's. I'll try out the suggestion of lifting it off, building and all, to avoid the seam in the scenery between the stationary layout and the lift up for access to tracks below. I didn't want to buy a whole sheet, and every piece I already have are of odd shapes that won't work. I don't think I can handle a section as long as the whole lift up. If I keep the weight of the scenery down, I could set it down on the bridge top if nothing else. Of course I need to cut the corner out in a curve to follow the track. It's just an experiment for now to see how it works out.
The aisle between the layout and the wall is 28 inches and the door opening is 27-1/2 inches. There isn't a lot of wiggle room.
I'm thinking that foam might be too thick to work with the rest of the scenery and however you plan to finish off the lift-out.
Perhaps 1/4" thick might be easier to incorporate with the rest of the scene - maybe even a simple styrene plastic sheet.
Alternatively, if the hotel is structurally sound enough, you could simply leave it alone and lift it off by the roof when necessary (I'm assuming you will use a simple electrical connector to disconnect any lighting wires from underneath).
Thank you, Art, Eddie, Richie!
Art, I'm sure you have a great bunch of friends who look forward to operating with the signal system in place, but also realize there is a lot involved to getting it working correctly and looking good!
Eddie, the glass shelves sound great! What a classy way to display trains.
Richie, yes you have a good point. I looked for 1/4", and all they had was some kind of wimpy folding stuff. Actually, there wasn't much insulation board of any kind. Perhaps it's a delivery problem like we are still seeing in the grocery stores in our area. 
Anyway, as you guessed, the hotel is as solid as a rock. Myles built it well using the correct glues for the application. He glued the roof on, so it is quite solid lifting it under the eaves. In fact, that may be the best thing to do for moving it off the layout. It's not like it's an everyday thing. I have the Woodland Scenics field mat, I'm thinking of just building the scenery right on the Masonite and see how well it looks disguising the seam. If I don't like it, then I can put something over it and consider it a practice session.
I have a little side project to do for the local Model Train Club of Zelienople, building up a little display of the B&O caboose in front of the Mars, Pennsylvania former B&O station owned by the Mars Area Historical Society on their modular layout. Since I have a center cupola B&O caboose and grew up 2 miles from Mars, I volunteered for the project.
Here's the basic project.
The real thing.
In front of the restored station. The station would be a great scratch build project!!
All photographs were taken by me on September 27, 2023
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Mark, congratulations on 100 pages. It’s been a fun and interesting ride. Like Bob, I look forward to 100 more. If you feel the styrofoam is too thick, I’d suggest 1/2” Homasote. I’ve used it all over the decking on my layout. It’s rigid and lightweight. I’ve painted mine an earth brown, then used my ground cover as needed. I like the new project too.
Andy
Mark you could use 1/4" plywood for the lift off
Thank you, Andy, Jeff!!
Andy, Homasote is a great idea, but I used up the rest of mine for the roadbed supporting the track on my revision last winter. It seems to be hard to find around here, and I don't really want to buy a sheet of it anyway.
Jeff, I agree, 1/4" plywood would work as well. I have some of that.
Thank you for all ideas!!! I'm going to see how easy or hard it is to manage a simulation using a cardboard box on a piece of foam or plywood while I work on the caboose project. Then I'll know if I want to lift off a whole section or just the building alone. One problem to solve with whatever lift off is to provide handholds to get it off the layout.
Mark, Jeff’s idea is a good one, especially if you have the material on hand. As far as the handholds, make them a natural part of the scene, but attach them securely so you can use them. Maybe a small pair of sheds or other small structure. Possibly lampposts or hydrants, etc.
Andy
Mark 1/4 ply will warp over time - been there done that. At best it cups up or down - and that was oak, cherry and maple cabinet grade plys. Maybe if you seal both sides and all the edges really well it may stay stable. Moisture gets in one side more than the other creating cupping. Or you could add bracing to help resist cupping. Jeff
@ScoutingDad posted:Mark 1/4 ply will warp over time - been there done that. At best it cups up or down - and that was oak, cherry and maple cabinet grade plys. Maybe if you seal both sides and all the edges really well it may stay stable. Moisture gets in one side more than the other creating cupping. Or you could add bracing to help resist cupping. Jeff
I'd just go with better quality 1/2" plywood. I know now that better quality wood really runs up the cost. When I did my purchasing in 2019, the 1/2" Baltic birch 11 ply plywood was only about 20% more a sq/ft than 5 ply 1/2" plywood, my 5x5 sheets were less than $24/ea. It's come down to about $50-$55 now. Of course, plywood is a lot more expensive as well!
Timing is everything. 
Don't know if this has been asked before Mark, but....do you have a spot in mind to put the lift out when you have to remove it? Hate to see you standing there with no place to go.
Mark, Jeff’s point is a good one. I have 1/4” pre finished birch ply. It hasn’t warped in years. Or as Jeff mentioned, seal it on all sides with some poly.
Andy
Put the piece of 1/4" down there and let it sit for a week if it doesnt cup it probably wouldnt ever
Thank you, Andy, Jeff, John, Bob, Ohio Jeff!!
Thank you everyone for all the great replies! Here is the one that hits the nail on the head!
@RSJB18 posted:Don't know if this has been asked before Mark, but....do you have a spot in mind to put the lift out when you have to remove it? Hate to see you standing there with no place to go.
I think we have come full circle since I first built a lift off module with legs on it with the intent of carrying it to the next room and setting it on the floor. The hinged lift-up makes that unnecessary, but I was concerned about how to scenic the seam where the hinges are.
Bob is right. When I was contemplating the Styrofoam, I thought it wouldn't mar the surface of the double track truss bridge if I set the foam on top. The only alternative is to carry it through the narrow doorway and set it where? On the floor? 
We were discussing how I could set up a small workbench in the general area where our daughter's piano was. Of course I would have to clear off a good portion of it to set down a scenery module, but it wouldn't be so bad to make room for the hotel alone. I think I can hid the seam with shrubs right in front of the hotel porch and some of the Martin Wellburg scenic mat away from the hotel. I will just have an area where a road approaching the hotel may cross. I was thinking a dirt road, but maybe the seam would be less conspicuous with a gravel road. Of course, I could have the access road come in from the other direction off the front of the layout. The seam behind the hotel doesn't matter since it is a short distance to the backdrop and will be in shadows.
This has been a great discussion and there are tips to be remembered on types of plywood, sealant, extruded Styrofoam, and where d you put something big you lift off the layout! 
Hi Mark, Happy 100th page anniversary! I am sorry I am late to comment but life has been busy.
I am just wondering how often you see yourself lifting the hinged section. If it isn't that often you could always just build a pivot poll for it and swing it into the walkway while working on something or fixing a derailment. I don't see that happening with the wonderful track work you have done, but it is just a thought!
I like your idea of waiting on the wiring till winter, but then again if I could get away with it I would wait till someone else came and did mine! LOL
The new project looks like a fun little one, plus it should be easier on the body then wiring! LOL
Thank you, Mike.
I don’t anticipate needing access often, but there is one switch under there, though it is near the side. I can reach in for a simple car derailment, but you never know. Swinging a section out would be okay if it wasn’t for the wall in the way.
Leaving the wiring for someone else is a great idea! 😄 But who is that someone? 😆
Thank you for your idea!
@Mark Boyce posted:Thank you, Mike.
I don’t anticipate needing access often, but there is one switch under there, though it is near the side. I can reach in for a simple car derailment, but you never know. Swinging a section out would be okay if it wasn’t for the wall in the way.
Leaving the wiring for someone else is a great idea! 😄 But who is that someone? 😆
Thank you for your idea!
Hi Mark I understand the swing out problem, and as for the someone else all I can say you wouldn't want me! LOL
@Mark Boyce posted:Leaving the wiring for someone else is a great idea! 😄 But who is that someone? 😆
Thank you for your idea!
Did someone say wiring....😉😉😉
@mike g. posted:Hi Mark I understand the swing out problem, and as for the someone else all I can say you wouldn't want me! LOL
😄😄 Mike, I think you wouldn’t want me doing your carpentry either. 😄😄
@gunrunnerjohn posted:I'd just go with better quality 1/2" plywood. I know now that better quality wood really runs up the cost. When I did my purchasing in 2019, the 1/2" Baltic birch 11 ply plywood was only about 20% more a sq/ft than 5 ply 1/2" plywood, my 5x5 sheets were less than $24/ea. It's come down to about $50-$55 now. Of course, plywood is a lot more expensive as well!
Timing is everything.
Mark,
what about MDF? I’ve not used it( yet) but I believe it will stay stable over time compared to plywood.
Rubin
