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All my benchwork is Oriented Strand Board. Cheap and very stable. Heavy! My first design, before doing the swing out, was to have the lift up gate counter-balanced with an air spring. A suggestion from a reader had me do the door which was much better. I just had enough clearance to get by a Lally column. The air spring would work, but you'd have to figure out what size to use and, for that, I was running into a conceptual bind. I had no idea how to go about it since I am really not an engineer, I only play one on the OGRR forum. To lift it unsupported didn't seem like a good idea. I suppose you could hinge the lift panel, put a spring scale on it as you lift it to determine the overall load and then calculate the actual load at the hinge point. It would be a simple leverage calculation that we all learned in high school physics and forgot the next summer. For me, high school physics was 60 years ago. I also suppose that a simple google search could tell you how to do it. The air spring manufacturer would also give some help in figuring out which size to buy.

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Mark,

My opinion.  Have been using smaller pieces of 1?4" loan plywood for portable work surfaces for years. The are light and fairly stable..

For your purpose I would make two pieces to laminate together with laminated surefaces grain 90-degrees to  each other.  Cut to size and sell all surfaces/edges with clear polly.

Ron

Thank you, Rubin, John, Myles, Ron!

Wow!  This question about how to build a lift-off section for the Idaho Hotel has really generated a lot of great discussion.

Rubin, I didn't know anything about MDF either until I bought some a few years ago to see what it was about.  I found it to be like what John wrote and ended up using it for shelves that would only hold fairly lightweight items.

John, thank you for listing the bullet points.  Leave it to an engineer to do that.  As a technician who finished an engineering degree in my late 40s, I wound up as a telecom engineer in my early 50s.  I always considered myself a fake engineer. 

Myles, I recall your discussion about whether to build a lift-up or swing-out entry section.  Your drawings of the lift-up are great as all your drawings are.  I think you play a very good engineer on OGR.    Yes, the swing-out was the way to go in your situation.  It allowed for some neat scenery as well.

Ron, the lauan laminated at 90 degrees to each other would be an excellent choice for stability.

I am going back to @RSJB18 Bob's question on the previous page.  Where am I going to put whatever I decide to lift off the layout???  Considering the narrow aisle between the layout and the wall, the distance between the hotel site and where I can set it down, and my clumsiness exasperated by the right foot that doesn't move right after the sciatic nerve damage 5 years ago, I decided to just move the hotel alone and disguise the seam where the lift-up is hinged to the stationary part of the layout.

@Mark Boyce posted:

I was called away, so I saved the previous post without adding the photograph.  The blue tape represents where an access road will go.  At first I thought the road could go around back for parking, but then decided it should go to the front door even if it is intended to be a country hotel with a gravel driveway.

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Mark, I like the hotel where it is also.  The location of the roadway also looks good to me.  Yo u could put a sign at the left or right side of the hotel that says "Parking in the rear" and let that be imaginary parking.

Looks good, Art

Thank you, Andy, Art, Mike, Wesley!

Yes, I think 'less is more' is quite valid in this case.  I like the idea of the 'Parking in Rear' sign.

I think I mentioned before, I got the idea from the Shady Rest Hotel on Petticoat Junction.  All I remember was a path down the bank to the railroad to meet the Cannonball when a visitor arrived.  I don't recall what road they had, but I'm sure it wasn't a smoothly paved highway.

Thank you, RJ!

Boyce Surprises!  LOL  Guest and staff parking sounds good!  Staffed with only the best railroad enthusiasts! 

I thought I would try laying some of the Woodland Scenics plaster cloth over the top of the Idaho Hotel area as a starting point.  First was covering the track...and that's as far as I got.    I still need to cover or move the engines on the shelves and move a few boxcars; not to mention the hotel and woodies.

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As an aside, my wife decided to contribute this old desk that belonged to her dad as a workbench.  Here it is at the location where our daughter's piano had resided until this past summer.  The painting above is one my aunt painted in 1960 which was on my parents' living room wall until right before we had to sell the house in 2019.  It was there 60 years.  I remember my uncle carrying it into the house.

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Last edited by Mark Boyce

Between this and that this weekend, I didn't get started on the scenery base for the lift-up section.  However, I purchased a new kit to build.  I learned about it on the same YouTube where I learned of the Alton Fire House kit.  The YouTube channel is New Tracks Modeling, I think it is something associated with NMRA.  Anyway, starting November 1st, Dennis Brennan is going to be doing sessions building his Frank Ellison Tribute Series - Sanky Wanky Coffee Co kit.  I looked on his WebSite for the dimensions and decided I could fit it on the layout.  That was Wednesday.  I ordered it Thursday and received it yesterday.  I pulled the instructions out and gave the kit to my wife to give me on my birthday, November 3rd.  So here it is.

Yes, I got the trapezoid effect trying to get my smart phone shadow out of the light. 

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Dennis includes the best instruction sheets I have seen.

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The parts are all in little bags with everything identified.  I think I am going to like the interlocking brick corners better than matching up bricks with wall edges sanded to a 45 degree angle.

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So, here is the site.  It is on the passing siding on the other side of the big truss bridge from the Thomas, West Virginia station.

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Oh, yes here's the plaster cloth for the scenery base.  I washed out the basin to hold the water to wet it down, and then I was called away. 

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Last edited by Mark Boyce

Mark,

You’ve sold me. I’ve been looking at that kit longingly since Dennis began advertising it. I kept holding off with all I’ve got to and spend on the layout, not to mention anticipating buying the new TMCC Base3 and DCS outfits to replace my geriatric originals, if they ever do really appear. But you’ve made the kit look so good that I’m going to order it tomorrow.

Rubin

Mark, good move pulling the instructions to familiarize yourself with the kit. Often times I’ve dove into a kit by just glossing over the instructions. Even if your familiar with kits it’s a big mistake. On a recent build I gave everything a quick look and started. One of the first steps was to install these truss style supports into the base.  I thought it was very nice the builder gave you a sheet with 6 when only 5 was required. An extra so I thought in case one broke. They fit loosely in the base but I continued on. Looking for some more pieces I discovered 4 more. That seemed odd. I now had 5 extras.  Looking at the pictures all looked right. Re read the instructions that I should have done better before I started. The trusses were suppose to be glued together. It might have been the first step. 2 to make 1. It was fixed but not easily. In the end they are not even in good view.
Structure building is one of my favorite things to do. I like scratchbuilding. Even with no instructions to follow I’ve messed up that at times. I’m pretty much built out on the layout. But I’m open to upgrading over what I have now. Looking forward to your build.  It looks like a well thought out kit. Will also look for Dennis’ you tube tutorials.

Thank you, Rich, John, Dave C, Dave, Andy, Richie, Bob, Mike, George!

Dave C, Yes I have messed up as well.  Often it is from way poorer instructions than Dennis provides.  I have scratchbuilt in the past, but have been working on a small one recently that just isn't working out at all.

Richie, That sounds like the pully lift system to lift a whole layout up out of the way except in miniature.  That certainly is doable.

Here is an example of what I did long ago.  The Boyce Homestead where I grew up.  My dad grew up here, and my grandpa was born here.  I scratchbuilt it in N scale when I was about 35.  I couldn't do it in N scale now.

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Last edited by Mark Boyce

Mark, I really appreciate the time you spend away from the layout and posting on here instead!  As I get ready to work on my long delayed layout the ideas that are brought out by you and others response to them are helpful in my planning.

BTW if anyone is looking for custom laser signage, Al at Millhouse River Studios has recently started making them in both a flat and 3D versions!

Mark, Layout is really nice. Jeff, thank you for the mention about our custom signage. Here is a photo of a couple signs we did for a forum member an one of our customers. They sent us the sign art and we made the vector file and laser cut them. They will be painted in the end. We wanted to offer a low cost for people to customize industries on their layouts.

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Here is a 3D one we did on our flood loader demo at York.

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Thank you, Jeff, Al, Andy!

Jeff, thank you for showing your appreciation for the time it takes.  You are right, it does take time.  I think of it both as something to share with others and remember all the great posts and threads others have taken time to write that have benefitted me.

Jeff, you are correct, Al's signs look great!  Of course I wouldn't expect anything less from Al!!

Andy, you are right, I will need quite a few signs on the layout.  More and more details to think of now that the layout has reached this point. 

I covered the lift-up and stationary approach with Woodland Scenics plaster cloth.  This evening, I covered the area around where the hotel will sit and the road approach next to the backdrop with Sculptamold.  It is drying now.  I used a technique that Myles shared by putting plastic wrap around the building edge to protect it and putting a thin coat of Sculptamold up to the plastic.  I'll get a photograph when it dries.  I don't really know what I want to do with the other end of the lift-up, so I didn't put Sculptamold there yet.

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