Thank you, Rich, Andy!
Nothing new to report except I did run the passenger train for my brother-in-law from Los Angeles while he was visiting right before Christmas. It was the first he saw any of my layouts. He was impressed in that all he was familiar with was a simple oval of track on the floor or a table.
Afternoon Mark, I hope you and your family are doing well and had a wonderful Christmas! I see that you may have planted a new seed in your brother-in-law ! Who knows he maybe the next Model Railroader in the family! LOL
I hope you all have a wonderful New Year and find time to enjoy your layout and get the coffee shop finished! I will check in later next week after my surgery on Tuesday.
Thank you, Mike! Christmas went well as we got so see almost everyone close to us. That is a hard task for sure. Who knows about my brother-in-law is right!!
I'll be praying for your surgery and recovery to go well! Now it's my turn to tell you to remember to do everything the health care professionals tell you to do. 
I did get all the gaps in the Coffee Company foundation filled and sanded, ready to spray the textured paint that Dennis recommended. I'm anxious to see how it turns out. 
@mike g. posted:Afternoon Mark, I hope you and your family are doing well and had a wonderful Christmas! I see that you may have planted a new seed in your brother-in-law ! Who knows he maybe the next Model Railroader in the family! LOL
I hope you all have a wonderful New Year and find time to enjoy your layout and get the coffee shop finished! I will check in later next week after my surgery on Tuesday.
Mike, I didn’t know you were having surgery, best of luck!
Gene
Thanks guys!
Mark I will be looing forward to seeing your updates on the coffee company!
Godspeed with the surgery!
Semper Fidelis!
@RSJB18 posted:Hi Mark- I like the new engines. Both very nice looking. On the RS3- have you checked the momentum settings on the remote? Might help with the speed steps. IIRC, ERR Cruise Commander can do 32 or 100. Here's the programming instructions.
Speed Step Selection
The default speed step selection is 100 as shipped. The 100 speed steps are linear. The 100 speed steps start at a lower threshold, thus the motor is operating at a lower initial voltage with fine adjustment as the throttle is advanced. The momentum and stall features are not applicable, and do not operate.
To switch Speed Steps do the following:
Activate 32 Speed Steps: AUX1 + 0 + AUX1 + 0 + BRAKEActivate 100 Speed Steps: AUX1 + 0 + AUX1 + 0 + BOOST
Note: The speed step selection is stored until changed, and survives power cycling.I like the HO loop on the Christmas layout. I'm tempted occasionally to do the same so I can run my PRR Y3 steamer.
Bob
Bob, I finally did the speed step selection as you described. It may be stuck in 32 speed steps, since I didn't see a change whether I set it at 32 or 100. Maybe it will work if I try it again, since I shut everything down. As you know, power cycle often works wonders!
I did some spray painting. The walls and windows are done. I didn't like the first coat results of the texture paint on the base. I think it is a problem with not getting the correct angle of paint hitting the surface. The base is too long to turn endwise in my spray booth without the surface to be sprayed sticking out the front of the booth. I turned it several times, but I can't cover the end surfaces well. I think I will just build the building on top of it without gluing the brick walls to the concrete base. Then when there is a day when it is warm and dry enough to spray outside, I'll spray the base again outside.
May everyone have a blessed New Year!!
Hi Mark, sounds like your getting a little done here and there whch is always good! I am not sure how tall your spray booth is but have you thought about standing it up the long way from top to bottom? If it fits you might get away with spraying it that way!
Just a thought on drugs in the hospital bed! LOL
@mike g. posted:Hi Mark, sounds like your getting a little done here and there whch is always good! I am not sure how tall your spray booth is but have you thought about standing it up the long way from top to bottom? If it fits you might get away with spraying it that way!
Just a thought on drugs in the hospital bed! LOL
"on drugs in the hospital bed" ..... and still posting, that's dedication to the hobby! Prayers for a quick recovery
Mike, I know you are still suffering, and I am praying you get well soon. Here is a photograph of the paint booth and the Sanky Wanky Coffee Company foundation. I don't think I can do it no matter how I turn the booth.
Here is an update on the Sanky Wanky Coffee Company kit. I have only been able to work on it a few minutes at a time, but have some results. Dennis Brennan suggests doing the mortar and weathering of the brick walls now, which makes sense before putting in the windows, sills, and lintels. The next step was to build the windows. I didn't feel like messing with mortar one evening, so I started the windows, which I completed.
Here is a sample of the walls.
Dennis really has thought out the construction of the windows and doors well. His work designing, laser cutting, and writing instructions makes a tedious job much easier. I haven't seen anything like it, though other manufacturers may be doing something similar.
Here is how he has you remove the windows and attack to laser cut sections of glazing. The glazing is still on the paper.
He designed backers that when you attach the windows, the backer aligns all the windows the same distance from the front of the brick wall. That is something I always have struggled with. It reminds me of a plastic kit once they are built.
This is just a sample of his instructions.
Here are the windows on the backers, 10 windows are in an open position.
Now I have to build the doors in a similar manner.
Interesting build, thanks for the update.
Art
On to two switchers. I have not opened up the RS-3 to see how the motors are wired. In the meantime, I saw a post by local forumite @Freight Train Jim. He had 3 nice K-Line MP-15's for sale at a great price in my opinion. I have purchased some cars from him in the past. I got a old stock, new in box CSX MP-15. Yes, the CSX paint scheme is new for the era of the rest of the equipment I have, but since we see them here in this region, I grabbed it up.
It is interesting that the CSX MP-15 and a NS MP-15 were in a Conrail set, but since Conrail was split between the two I guess i makes sense.
I never saw this before, but Bob @RSJB18 will like this.
It runs nicely.
Thank you, Art! It is interesting!
@Mark Boyce posted:Mike, I know you are still suffering, and I am praying you get well soon. Here is a photograph of the paint booth and the Sanky Wanky Coffee Company foundation. I don't think I can do it no matter how I turn the booth.
Here is an update on the Sanky Wanky Coffee Company kit. I have only been able to work on it a few minutes at a time, but have some results. Dennis Brennan suggests doing the mortar and weathering of the brick walls now, which makes sense before putting in the windows, sills, and lintels. The next step was to build the windows. I didn't feel like messing with mortar one evening, so I started the windows, which I completed.
Here is a sample of the walls.
Dennis really has thought out the construction of the windows and doors well. His work designing, laser cutting, and writing instructions makes a tedious job much easier. I haven't seen anything like it, though other manufacturers may be doing something similar.
Here is how he has you remove the windows and attack to laser cut sections of glazing. The glazing is still on the paper.
He designed backers that when you attach the windows, the backer aligns all the windows the same distance from the front of the brick wall. That is something I always have struggled with. It reminds me of a plastic kit once they are built.
This is just a sample of his instructions.
Here are the windows on the backers, 10 windows are in an open position.
Now I have to build the doors in a similar manner.
Mark, progress looks good. This kit looks high quality. I’m going to look into his kits. I really like his anthracite coal and use it on my coal hoppers etc. Can’t wait to see this when completed!
Mike
Mark, that does look like a terrific building. If you need some advice on making mortar lines, just ask.
@Mark Boyce posted:On to two switchers. I have not opened up the RS-3 to see how the motors are wired. In the meantime, I saw a post by local forumite @Freight Train Jim. He had 3 nice K-Line MP-15's for sale at a great price in my opinion. I have purchased some cars from him in the past. I got a old stock, new in box CSX MP-15. Yes, the CSX paint scheme is new for the era of the rest of the equipment I have, but since we see them here in this region, I grabbed it.
I never saw this before, but Bob @RSJB18 will like this.
It runs nicely.
I saw Jim's FS post too Mark. I almost jumped on it but none of the loco's were what I run so....better you than me.
Yes- I've see the series/ parallel switch before. I have a Demonstrator paint model that came with the switch but since I see no reason to run them in anything but series, I took it out. 
The small switch is for the sounds. It has a horn in it that makes a sick goose sound good.....
ripped that out too.....
Bob
Looking forward on the progress of the building as I'm sure with your skills it's going to look great.
Nice looking switcher. Learned something new today in reference to the Parallel and Series switch.
@T-Bone1214 posted:Nice looking switcher. Learned something new today in reference to the Parallel and Series switch.
I also never saw that before. Pretty cool!
Progress looks good Mark! Especially the kit!
@Mark Boyce posted:On to two switchers. I have not opened up the RS-3 to see how the motors are wired. In the meantime, I saw a post by local forumite @Freight Train Jim. He had 3 nice K-Line MP-15's for sale at a great price in my opinion. I have purchased some cars from him in the past. I got a old stock, new in box CSX MP-15. Yes, the CSX paint scheme is new for the era of the rest of the equipment I have, but since we see them here in this region, I grabbed it.
It is interesting that the CSX MP-15 and a NS MP-15 were in a Conrail set, but since Conrail was split between the two I guess i makes sense.
I never saw this before, but Bob @RSJB18 will like this.
It runs nicely.
Nice looking locomotive Mark. I’m on the lookout for a CSX to add to my layout. CSX is a regular near me.
Gene
Mark, I am sorry you cant fit in the paint booth! I am sure things will work out! The windows look fantastic and your are on a nice steady pace! I cant blame you for picking up the switcher and it sure does look to run very well!
I think I am going to take time and layback and watch some of Dennis videos!
Please take care and have fun!
Thank you, Mike Poncho, Myles, Bob, T-Bone, Bill, Gene, Mike g!
I have not used any of Dennis' ballast, coal, or other products, but I know everyone raves about them. I will have to try some once I get that far on the layout.
Myles, I will let you know on the mortar.
Bob, I should have known you would have seen the switch. I also should have known, you would have done surgery on an otherwise good engine! I do recall seeing your demonstrator, now that you mention it. IT is a good looking engine. I did not try the horn; I really wouldn't use it anyway.
Gene, I used to see CSX regularly where we lived. The former B&O mainline that was near where I grew up was spun off once CSX absorbed the P&LE. Those tracks see Buffalo & Pittsburgh and Allegheny Valley RR trains now. The other trains I see are CN.
Mike, I'm not too concerned about the paint booth, I'll paint it in the spring. 
The other day, I did the mortar with spackling as Dennis described. He said to dampen the brick surface and wet your finger then apply the spackling. I found that to be too runny (I probably was getting too much water). However, I think everything turned out pretty good. I didn't want the mortar to be too pronounced. I also stuck on the sills and soldiers (I never knew the bricks at the window and door lintels were called soldiers). As Dennis wrote, the peal and stick couldn't be easier. I'm sorry for the glare, but I think the results can be seen.
I need to build the doors and then install them and the windows.
On the scenery side, I have the batting and glue ready to try that method of scenery on the lift-up Idaho Hotel scene. More to come on that.
@Mark Boyce posted:The other day, I did the mortar with spackling as Dennis described. He said to dampen the brick surface and wet your finger then apply the spackling. I found that to be too runny (I probably was getting too much water). However, I think everything turned out pretty good. I didn't want the mortar to be too pronounced. I also stuck on the sills and soldiers (I never knew the bricks at the window and door lintels were called soldiers). As Dennis wrote, the peal and stick couldn't be easier. I'm sorry for the glare, but I think the results can be seen.
I need to build the doors and then install them and the windows.
On the scenery side, I have the batting and glue ready to try that method of scenery on the lift-up Idaho Hotel scene. More to come on that.
Mark, excellent job on the brick mortar, a very realistic approach. I’ll be following your hotel scene.
Gene
Bricks laid vertically, long side face to face is known as a soldier course. Like a platoon in formation.
Looks good Mark.
Mark,
Did you find any advantage to Dennis’ method? I’ve usually gotten very good results using paint on top of Dullcote and then wiping the paint off the top of the bricks leaving the mortar effect. But I always feels that I can learn from Dennis, hence my question.
Thank you, Gene, Bob, Rubin!
Bob, thank you for the explanation! Now it makes perfect sense.
Rubin, it worked out well on the flat surfaces. I did use a rag to wipe excess from the inside corners at the chimneys. It would be harder on plastic models with molded soldiers and sills. However, all methods have that problem. All in all, it was better than I thought it would be. Using some dampness with a trace of water made the spackle flow better and made it easier to wipe off the brick face.
@RubinG @Mark Boyce Mark nice work on the building. Like Rubin I found using dullcoat over the brick walls once painted following with either a wash of paint mortar or compound works fine. I do not prefer the white washed appearance when the brick surface is rough and can trap the mortar. This is over plastic cast bricks. I presume masonite would hold paint in a similar manner. Once I start building my cast plaster DownTown Deco buildings that may be a different matter. Enjoy Jeff
Jeff, the cast buildings are indeed a different breed of cat. The plaster just soaks up paint and it takes numerous coats to get a good result. A pre-sealing oat is a must. I can’t wait to see how your buildings come out!
Rubin
Hey Mark, I am glad to see you are moving forward with your building. I like the looks of the mortar joins on my end of the world! Keep up the hard work and I am sure it's going to be perfect!
@Mark Boyce posted:The other day, I did the mortar with spackling as Dennis described. He said to dampen the brick surface and wet your finger then apply the spackling. I found that to be too runny (I probably was getting too much water). However, I think everything turned out pretty good. I didn't want the mortar to be too pronounced. I also stuck on the sills and soldiers (I never knew the bricks at the window and door lintels were called soldiers). As Dennis wrote, the peal and stick couldn't be easier. I'm sorry for the glare, but I think the results can be seen.
Mark, two things…….
1. The meaning of “soldiers” was a new one for me too……
2. I love how Dennis does his windows. So much easier than “cast in”.
It looks great……..I’m looking forward to Dennis’ next kit which I believe is Brrr Ice.
Peter
Thank you, Jeff, Rubin, Mike, Peter!
Jeff, I agree, whatever method is used to color mortar joints on bricks with rough detail is a problem.
Rubin, I am not surprised that plaster cast buildings soak up paint and need several coats.
Mike, I don't know about perfect, but I am satisfied with the results. As I motioned, I don't like details like mortar too pronounced. I keep thinking of what would I see if I was a 1:48 high person standing 48, 96, or farther feet from the 'brick' building. I don't think I would see much mortar. 
Peter, Brrr Ice sounds like a great project for Dennis. I read about Frank Ellison's layout and some of the buildings long ago, but don't recall what other specific buildings looked like.
I sealed the walls, put together the doors, and started adding doors and windows to the walls. I only have the two long walls left to do. Here is an example, the short two-story wall.
Looks good Mark! Your moving right along and I think it is going to be just wonderful when done!
Mark,
The building is coming along nicely. I like your thought process as it pertains to the mortar. Sometimes less is more and subtle is more realistic.
Dave
That's one fine looking building! Have you given any thought to some mild weathering? I use an alcohol wash and sometimes airbrush a light mist of mud color along the lower edges to simulate mud splashed up after rain.
Nice work on the building Mark. The results speak for themselves, excellent work. I have built several of Dennis’ kits. They are well thought out and easy to build if you follow the instructions. The switcher runs smoothly, nice addition.
Andy
Nice job so far, Mark. I'm partial to Robert's Mortar, but your method looks just as good.
Here's another vote for some light weathering - a soft paint brush and some charcoal colored chalk would look great.
@Mark Boyce the building looks great. I have been using Robert’s Mortar Mix but nothing is easy to use in my opinion. I have a hard time keeping Robert’s from getting too heavy and white if that makes sense. Yours looks good. Thanks for the update!
Mike
Mike, Dave, Myles, Andy, Richie!!
Mike, moving right along took a hit yesterday as I was out twice with the snowblower and shovel. Dressed for it and taking a nap break, the cold made a difference over last time it snowed. No progress on the kit or scenery.
Dave, yes I do try to know when less is more, though I may not always pick the right thing. This kit dipped into the money I was going to use for detailing a couple of interiors. 
Andy, I'll say Dennis' kits are well thought out! I'm thinking I am going to want to see what else he has that may fit my layout.
Richie, I have heard of Robert's Mortar. That is good you get good results.
Myles and Richie, I do have an aversion to weathering engines, rolling stock, and motor vehicles. They look so good my OCD gets in the way of making them more realistic. The only weathering on them is natural dust. As for buildings, I do think they look better with some light weathering. As for dirt splashed up on the foundation, I will have to wait until I paint it since it is a scale 4 feet high. I should put some gray, yes charcoal colored, on the bricks. Maybe I should have done that before putting the windows in, but I do get ahead of myself quite often. 
@LT1Poncho posted:@Mark Boyce the building looks great. I have been using Robert’s Mortar Mix but nothing is easy to use in my opinion. I have a hard time keeping Robert’s from getting too heavy and white if that makes sense. Yours looks good. Thanks for the update!
Mike
Mike, thank you! You posted just before I posted my last reply. I agree, none of the methods are easy. It is so hard to keep from getting too much of whatever product on the bricks, especially the ones with molded details as I mentioned a couple days ago.
Mark sorry the snow is taking a toll on you folks back east! Watching the news it seems like you all are really getting hit hard! I know when that happens it doesn't always mean trains!
Please take it easy and be safe!
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