Rubin, I agree with you about early N scale. I had HO trains back in the 60’s early ‘70s. I got N scale starting in the early ‘80s. The steam engines were the worst. I am amazed I scratch built buildings in N scale, but I still have them as proof. I wish you well on a new layout in a new home.
John, good point; I never posted the locations of the uncouplers. I’ll have to do that. I really don’t have many sidings so there aren’t many.
Mark, I'm enjoying our exchanges.
You are so right about the steam. I remember sending an MRC Nickel Plate Berkshire into a tunnel only to have it come out minus all the valve gear, which had simply fallen off! And those couplers !?!##!
I've also have done HO and have about a dozen brass engines, over a hundred Athearn, MDC, AHM and other cars, many new in the box and a whole raft of Campbell, FSM and other kits, which keep thinking about selling.
But back to O gauge. I'm only 5'7 and I've always built my layouts at 40" height. Tony Koester in MR recently suggested that 48 " inches would be better for under the layout access. What have you done?
Mark, it’s a lot of prep work, but I think you’ll agree it will be worth it when you’re finished. I look forward to seeing all of your hard work pay off.
Andy
Thank you, Rubin and Andy!
Rubin, I’m always glad to talk to someone who has had experience with smaller scales. You do still have a lot of HO. I sold almost my HO and N scale items and used the money towards our two daughters’ tuition; though it didn’t go very far. 😄 My layout top is 44” high, and the higher bridge is 50” high. I’m 4 inches taller than you, and this height works well for me. I know Tony Koester recommends high layouts, and would like it higher when I’m underneath it, but I don’t want to build it so high I can’t reach the back of the layout. Tony can build a mainline a mile long and have narrow shelves. I can’t in an 11x11 room. 😄
Andy, it does take some time to get it built and working right. I guess I’m blessed that I don’t have 2 or 3 times the space, or more. 😉
Mark, you are right! Bigger is a blessing and a curse. But I also look at it this way, it’ll take me longer to “finish” the layout, which of course it never is…
Andy
Andy, you are right. I moved too many times and even when I setup modules I had moved from the previous house I never got as far as I wanted. So far we are good to go on this layout in this house.
After working on Plan D of The Blackwater Canyon Line for 2 years, I have declared heavy construction and wiring are done. I moved a bunch of tools and materials to the garage to make room for scenery and structure building. Granted, there will be times when I need to drag some of that out to wire lights etc.
I do want to mention a few items before we close this phase. I never got back on where I placed the uncoupling ramps. I have indicated where with red arrows. The long siding to the left is where I plan to put engines and cars on and off the track. The siding in the lower right will have two buildings, so I put in two uncoupling ramps. I considered putting them in the yard underneath the wye and enginehouse area. Those tracks are in blue in the upper right. The upper level is removable, but for the sake of good track integrity, I laid the track and switches right over the seam in the table top. I had such a time getting track to match up with my lift up bridges, I copped out on making the enginehouse area easily removable. If I find I have to have uncoupling ramps there, I'll remove the track above, so I can get into the lower space.
As I mentioned when I put in the first push button, these are temporarily mounted until I put a fascia on.
Besides checking out all the DZ1000 switch machines via the AIUs, I also checked out them with the pushbuttons. I labeled all my DZ1000 pushbuttons with the Dymo labeler. Yes, it is the old fashioned kind that wears out your hand. The address on the literature in the box has a postal code instead of a Zip code. That dates it to early or mid '60s. I brought it home when cleaning out my dad's things.
I did get back to my Walthers HO substation kit. One thing I learned from this kit is that I have trouble handling very small parts, and that is one reason I switched from HO to O gauge. I can see everything fine; fine enough that I am disappointed with how it is turning out. Even with spray accelerator, I can't keep the small insulators straight. I just set the main components in a back corner for now and will turn my attention to other things.
I want to build my Carolina Craftsman Thomas West Virginia Station, but need some practice on laser cut kits first. I have a couple easier ones I will work on. I also want to get some scenery built as well. These photographs show the 'canyon' area I want to do. That will also use up my left over Styrofoam so I have more space under the layout for structures and scenery building things.
I know someone will ask about the 4 heavyweight cars in the first photograph. They are actually a beautiful New York Central set I bought from Chris A to be pulled by my K-Line Hudson that is at Pat's Harmonyards awaiting its turn for an upgrade. See, I do have some other interests besides Western Maryland!! Thank you for taking a look.
Looks good Mark. Can't wait to see what's next.
Bob
Great work Mark! What will you work on next?
Never too soon to start thinking about expansion ! 
Thank you Bob, John, Richie!
I got out a TW Trainworx scale house kit that I bought at York in 2017 or ‘18. I started it a couple years ago, punching out and sanding smooth all the rough spots where the parts were attached to the main board. It’s about as simple a laser cut building as you can find. Next is an Altoona Branchline Station. Then I should be ready for the Thomas, WV Station which is more involved.
I started forming some foam for the canyon before my surgery, so I’ll continue that. I have some scenicing materials, but it’s been so long I need to take inventory.
Last evening, I maneuvered 3 steam engines around the engine house eye and passing siding so another one could pull a train. Everything went well, with the Russian Decapod taking over the train and the switcher is in the engine house. I was pleased.
Richie, I would like to have another track , but the only way to expand is to go up!
Mark you are continuing to make excellent progress. Heavy construction ands wiring completed is quite a milestone to achieve.
Good luck with the kit construction. Back in the day before we started on the train room, we built about one kit a month complete with interior/exterior detail and lighting. It was really fun and I am sure that you will enjoy it. Maybe Santa will bring you another kit.
Wow, looks great, Mark!
Congratulations on passing a milestone, Mark. Blackwater Canyon is looking good!
What are your thoughts on ballasting your track? I keep flipping back and forth on whether or not I'll ballast.
Mark keep up the great work you are much further along than I am. It seems I will never be done with wiring Ia m going stir crazy looking at all of it and I think I still have several hundred feet left to pull/run.
Thank you, Bill, Neal, Dan, Rick!!
Bill, you never know what Santa might bring! 
You built some great looking kits. I'm hoping to require some of the skills I had when I was younger.
Dan, I want the ballast to look like it is a well maintained single-track mainline from the '50s, so I am going to wait until I have a scenery base and the rocks and foliage done before ballasting. When I did it the other way around, I had to put tape over the track and ballast to finish the scenery. Inevitably some other scenic materials would get through. For a little used branch line that would be okay. I think I'll ballast in stages as I get sections of scenery 'completed', to save the monotony of doing a well maintained looking ballast job.
Rick, you have a whole lot more wiring to do than I had. Yes, I can see where what you are doing could get old.
Hi Mark, I’ve enjoyed following along with your progress on the layout. You’ve accomplished a fantastic job in your build. Looking forward to seeing the next phase come to life.
John
Thank you very much! I'm always glad to post something; I learn as much or more by doing it than others do.
Mark, congratulation! I know I mentioned it in another thread, but at least now you don't have to get under the layout, maybe except for stuff you have stored under there! Now you can let your mind run wild with scenery! Once again Congratulation!
Looks great, Mark.
Congrats and keep having fun!
Peter
Thank you, Mike and Peter!! All in all I did a fairly good job of staying out from underneath the layout during wiring. For connections near the back of the 30” shelves, I made connections on top of the layout, dropped the wires through holes and then pulled the wires towards the front edge where I have several sets of wire clamps along the way. I then pulled all those along with wires from the front to the wiring panel while sitting upright on my padded roll around stool. The concept really worked out well. For connections near the edge, the layout is high enough I was able to sit on the stool and just duck a bit with reading glasses instead of my normal bifocals. My dad would be proud. Even though he was a very strong man during most of his adult life, he always taught me to use my head not my muscles whenever you can.
Mark, I read your last three progress reports. Well done!!! You've made major progress. And I agree with your decision to defer ballasting until the scenery is in place. I'm doing that as well.
George
Congratulations on your milestone Mark. And thank you for the pictures and summing up what you’ve done to this point. I know how you feel about smaller parts. That is also one of the reasons why I switched to O gauge. Looking forward to seeing your progress.
Andy
Thank you, George and Andy! It is always good hearing from someone who has the same idea as me or has done something similar than me in the past and made similar decisions about changing. Thank you for taking a look!!
Moving right along Mark, you're sure beating me to the scenery. I have to stop expanding and start finishing I guess, you're embarrassing me! 
@Mark Boyce posted:Thank you, George and Andy! It is always good hearing from someone who has the same idea as me or has done something similar than me in the past and made similar decisions about changing. Thank you for taking a look!!
Mark, I too have enjoyed following your progress. Good luck with the scenery. I’m in the midst of packing away my trains and dismantling my layout to make way for our addition and my new, much larger layout room. This project is at least six months to completion. Then I can begin construction and apply some of the lessons I’ve learned from the others and you. Now if I can only find a good track planning tool or program.
And while I have 20x25 to work with, I’m thinking more and more about biting off smaller pieces because the thing does seem rather daunting.
any thoughts, anyone?
Thank you, John, Rubin!
John, yes you have a much larger layout and have taken the time for expansion too. Yours looks great!
Rubin, congratulations on the planned addition. I agree, with that much space, I would work on sections at a time, to not get overwhelmed with the tasks you don't like as well as others. My design was made on SCARM because that is what 'DoubleDAZ' Dave uses. I do not know how other tools compare.
Rubin, we have RRTrax and are pleased with it. 18 X 38 and the track plan has been within 1/4”. If you want some info, send us an e-mail. We are doing by sections; even that gets a bit old.
Mark really knows what he is doing. We try to never miss his updates.
@RubinG posted:Mark, I too have enjoyed following your progress. Good luck with the scenery. I’m in the midst of packing away my trains and dismantling my layout to make way for our addition and my new, much larger layout room. This project is at least six months to completion. Then I can begin construction and apply some of the lessons I’ve learned from the others and you. Now if I can only find a good track planning tool or program.
And while I have 20x25 to work with, I’m thinking more and more about biting off smaller pieces because the thing does seem rather daunting.
any thoughts, anyone?
Rubin- Try SCARM, the free version allows you to get your feet wet but it has a track piece limit. If you like it you can upgrade to the full version for a reasonable price.
Some guys like Anyrail too.
For your build- if you develop a plan and can get the bulk of the benchwork done, at least the big mess is behind you. Track can be done in modules so you can concentrate on one section at a time. Of course if you are eager to run trains then dive in head first.
Good luck with the move and keep us posted.
Bob
Congrats on reaching a new stage. I have always found shifting gears like that to be invigorating, giving me new energy as I turn to new tasks. I hope the same is true for you.
Hopefully Santa brings a lot of good things Mark. I think I have gotten enough from Santa already with my most recent visit to my LTS. 🎄🎅🎅🎅
FWIW, I have used RRTrack, SCARM, and AnyRail. I found AnyRail much easier and more intuitive to use, so that's what I stuck with. AnyRail has a free trial version as well so you can see how you like it.
Thank you GunrunnerJohn. I always appreciate your insight and advice.
As long as I am posting, I’d like to ask two more questions: 1) How do you vent for airbrush painting? 2) I have several engines that I’d like to convert to TMCC such as the Lionel scale NYC Mohawk, the Lionel Green GG-1 from 1981, the K-Line scale GG-1 and several others. My concern is that they all have PulMor motors, which don’t play nicely with TMCC, or so I am told. What are your thoughts? Do you do these conversions and, if so, what is the cost? I also hope that I haven’t violated the rules with this last question.
thanks, as always.
Thank you Bill, Steve, Dave for the compliments!
Thank you Bill, Bob, John for your comments in response to Rubin's question!
Bill, I sure have you fooled that I know what I am doing! 
Actually, maybe I do know what I am doing in that I ask questions before I blow something up or gripe about a product that I can't get to work because I didn't read the directions! 
I'm asking John questions quite a lot.
Steve, you are right about shifting gears to something new is invigorating. Sometimes, like wiring you go for weeks and can't really see any physical progress. I think that is a big part of where wiring bogs modelers down.
Dave, I do know some of what Santa is bringing; nothing earth shattering, but still well appreciated. I do have a couple MTH pre-orders in, but we could see them next Christmas. I only said that because I placed the preorders not very long ago, not that I'm complaining at all. I can accept things take a long while to arrive.
Rubin, 1. Back in my HO days, I bought a paint booth made by Badger I think. Connected the exhaust fan to a section of dryer vent hose and a dryer vent that I mounted on a board and placed in an open window so it fit like a window air conditioner. I haven't used it in this house yet, even though we have been in this house over 10 years. I do know I need to make a new vent. I'm sure others have more elaborate setups. I don't have a shop room. My 11x11 train room doubles as my shop. It can be a challenge.
2. I can do my own conversions as long as they don't involve any metal work other than drilling a new hole in the chassis. Replacing the Pullmor motors would be easy for me electrically, but there is usually a lot of fitting and metal work to be done to make proper brackets. I have a K-Line NYC Hudson that I sent to Pat of Harmonyards in North Carolina. He has really turned out some gems, both mechanically, but with new electronics, paint, the works, or as little as you want. Send him an email that is in his profile, and he can get with you on what you want, what he recommends, and a price. Mine is in the queue at this time. Right now he is busy, but is retiring from his day job in 2022 and plans to work on a lot of engines. I see no violation of the rules in asking at all. Someone gives you a tip of who to ask, and then you contact them via email or phone.
@Mark Boyce posted:Connected the exhaust fan to a section of dryer vent hose and a dryer vent that I mounted on a board and placed in an open window so it fit like a window air conditioner.
That's a good idea Mark. No building permit required.
Mark posted: Steve, you are right about shifting gears to something new is invigorating. Sometimes, like wiring you go for weeks and can't really see any physical progress. I think that is a big part of where wiring bogs modelers down.
Mark you hit toenail square on the head that is where I am now. Spent 8 hours Saturday with a friend helping me and all we accomplished was to convert some temporary wiring to permanent wiring. HELP!!!!!
Mark, I got a bunch of preorder stuff that is always calling me. I just got a call tonight that the Atlas/MTH passenger cars of the Southern Road Name came in tonight. That does bring a smile to my face but I'll have to wait until the new year before I see them.
Yeah, Pat does excellent work, and your K-Line Hudson is going to be the biggest home run you have ever seen. He did a great deal to my NYC #3000 Mohawk, which I am still in love with. My first scale engine bought so many year ago has an even greater lease on it's life because of Pat. The scary thing is that I have two Hudson's(same K-Line one as yours and Lionel's Vanderbilt Tender) with him, I have two Commodore Vanderbilt's that will eventually had off to him, #3005 Mohawk and a surprise as well.
Just a ton of stuff in the works, and only a bit of time to hear the Pistons pumping on the rails. Maybe this weekend I can get a minute to do other things railroad related to move on projects here at home. At least one of us is working on the railroad.
Dave, when he did your NYC 3000 Mohawk, did he swap out the Pul-Mor motor? If he did not, how well has the engine worked in TMCC? I have found that several of the early TMCC engines with the old style motors had rather poor speed control. I’d welcome your experience.
May I ask what the cost was ( I’ve got 6 engines to “fix.”)?
Thanks,
Rubin
Rick, yes that is a great example of what I mean. I hope you get beyond the wiring soon.
Dave, I hope you get more time with your layout. I've certainly seen times like what you describe.
@RubinG posted:I have found that several of the early TMCC engines with the old style motors had rather poor speed control. I’d welcome your experience.
Thanks,Rubin
Rubin- a couple of options. You can install a Third Rail ERR AC Commander board. It will work with the pullmor motors. An alternative is to have the pullmor's replaced with DC can motors and install a Cruise Commander. I believe there's a member/ vendor on the forum who offers direct drop in replacements.
All of the ERR boards run on Lionel's TMCC/ Legacy system. I've done one conversion and have two more in the pipeline. One will be a AC commander so I can't say how well it controls the speed yet. I'm sure some of the experts will chime in with their advice.
Bob
@RubinG posted:Dave, when he did your NYC 3000 Mohawk, did he swap out the Pul-Mor motor? If he did not, how well has the engine worked in TMCC? I have found that several of the early TMCC engines with the old style motors had rather poor speed control. I’d welcome your experience.
May I ask what the cost was ( I’ve got 6 engines to “fix.”)?Thanks,
Rubin
Yes, the motor is now a Pittman which will pull out the kitchen sink. Pat did quite a bit of work there besides the motor swap, so my price isn't just for the motor. The other thing is Alex M did all the electronic bits as well as some other stuff as well. So, my cost is more than what would be normal. Remember, #3000 has no TMCC guts in it other than after it was converted.
So, overall the work I had done is the cost of high end diesels or so, not a nice new shiny steam locomotive(that is from both shops added together). Depending on all of what you want done will definitely have different prices. If you can do some of the work yourself, that will definitely cheapen your cost as Bob says.
Being that there are a bunch of people who offer their services for all kinds of upgrades, prices vary from person to person obviously.
Also, my engine is now back to being my favorite, lol. When I had originally gotten it so many years ago, it was what I always ran under the Christmas tree, and is again. Being that I don't have a big enough layout(built yet), it will serve in under the tree service until such things change.
Mark, what are you going to be working on the rest of the week/after Christmas? I have only been reading about half pages as of late as there is so much stuff to catch up on most of the times. Never enough time.
Thank you everyone for giving Rubin some ideas about the engines with the Pullmor motors.
Dave, I started cutting and gluing a few pieces of Styrofoam to make a scenery base for this area. It will be removable to get at wires.
It isn't far enough along, so I won't bother with a photograph. I'm going to go around the layout and make bases. I have some extruded Styrofoam and thin plywood to make the removable bases. I have been storing a bunch of this white insulation cut to put between studs on 16" centers that my wife brought home from a thrift store a few years ago. It's basically white beadboard. I don't like working with it, but she will be happy when I put some of it to use. I'll cover it over, so it really doesn't matter what it is. It just makes a mess, as does all Styrofoam so what's it matter.
Removable--and even interchangeable--bases are an excellent plan. The benefits are access, ability to work on the area on the bench rather than hunched over the layout, and, if you like, the ability to swap out scenes for changing themes, locations, or season. Wise choice!
Thank you! The ability to access some wiring and not reaching to the back of the layout are the first considerations. Having a small layout, the ability to make extra scenes is the the thought that came next. As has been the case throughout, I need to use that Styrofoam to make room for some extra buildings and hopefully store some interchangeable scenes.
Bill Bramlage had an article on this in CTT. He doesn’t like to to weather his structures but he’s an undeniably prolific and creative modeler.
on another front, I think that I’ve found a track plan for my new layout, based on Stuart Venit’s layout in the May 2016 OGR.
ove attached the plan, which I will evidence by 2 feet and substitute an engine terminal with turntable on the for the logging branch.
Any thoughts welcome. 
Now that is an idea Mark. When I was building my Christmas tree layout, I was talking to Phil at work who was at the time an intern engineer. We both share a love of trains, and he had suggested the foam board to try to deaden sound. I did also use Rossbed for the roadbed on it, so no pesky magnification of sound as if the rails were right on it(I believe someone had posted about it having that effect somewhere).
After I had built it all, I had though about if it could be used to help add some scenery details. Well, I didn't go with that, but did have another idea over the summer. I had thought about something like dinner placemats being used to make a base for doing grass base or even creating a movable base that would be cut to a specific size for whatever was needed. It could be cut to hug the rails and provide other such spaces here and there. Since it is a plastic mat of sorts, figured it would fit into spots pretty well. Never thought about styrofoam for some reason. Maybe because I always think mountains when I see those.
Dave, Yes, I think the placemats would be too flimsy to move around. My Christmas layout (which I didn't put up this year) is a sheet of 2" Styrofoam. It is quite sturdy when moving around. I used a square section of Styrofoam about 4x4 under the Christmas tree for several years in the past.
Hi Mark,
Being totally new to this hobby I am guessing you are planning to make a standard size scene so you can remove them for access and replace with a new scene to keep the interest. Do I have that right, or am I way off? If not way off I am very interested in how you mate the permanent scene with the removable scene to make it seamless. Thanks in Advance. John
John, Some scenes will just be nature (trees, rocks, etc) like the section I posted yesterday. That one may never be changed out for another one, but only removed if I need to get at the wires for the track above it. I am certainly not done adding and forming foam, but this one will be about 2 feet long and less than a foot deep. I roughly drew the outline of it in red. (Boy so I have a time drawing with the mouse) I may put in a trackside shed or service road, or it may just be rocks and a hillside.
In this one I had initially planned to have a town on a hillside. That was before I acquired the model of the Thomas, West Virginia engine house. It is about 4 feet long and a foot deep, and has a lot of work to be done before it takes it's final shape. I still plan to put some buildings on it and trees to partially hide a power station backdrop making it look like it is in the distance. For my thinking, this one lends itself more towards building more than one at some point to change out scenes. Regardless, the first reason to have this one removable is that I can build and scenic it at a convenient table instead of reaching over the tracks at 50" high.
In the second photograph, I need to raise the backdrop since I am covering up the trees. Fortunately, it is not attached to the wall yet, since I thought I would be altering it. I also need to pull out the right hand section and paint it. I ran out of backdrop that I bought from a forum member.
You raised a good point about how to hide the joint. Planting bushes or trees along the seam is the easiest method. Where that isn't available, I have seen where modelers have used the edges of buildings, stone walls, or some overlap of scenery. Sometimes, it is difficult to hide the seam, like if a road crosses it. I think there you could rough in the road, the with the removable section in position, you could match up the scenery pretty closely. Visitors would hardly notice unless the seam is pointed out.
Mark, The question is whether you’ll notice the seam. I recall someone hanging a hot air ballon or a model plane from the ceiling in front of a seam that not only hides the seam, but adds a bit of interest. Just a thought for you.
Bob
Congrats Mark on Phase Completion! A thought occurred to me regarding holding the insulators straight when gluing on the transformer - possibly using a piece of that white styrofoam, jam the insulators in where you want them, ensuring their bases extend the same distance, and glue them all at once. Lift off the styrofoam when the glue has dried. One-time use jig!
Thanks for sharing your progress and for being so personable and transparent with your process and life.
Mark, forward thinking idea to make the foam removable to access wiring. Can’t wait to see both scenes take shape.
Andy
Thank you, Bob, Dan, Andy!!
Bob, you are absolutely right; the builder always knows every flaw in his work. He has to decide if he will try to improve or if he can live with it. The baloon is a novel idea for hiding a seam. The imagination is the limit of how to hide any flaw.
Dan, I think your idea of the one time jig could work. I'll have to try it.
Andy, my forward thinking comes from the experience of doing too much backward thinking. I have gotten ahead of myself too many times on this layout.
Mark, I confess, I’m guilty of the same thing! I’ve gotten ahead of myself and cost myself time more than I’d like to admit
Andy
Interesting to watch this discussion.
Seam in a road. Where we live, there is usually a road crew with signs, trucks, people, etc and you can’t see much of what they are doing. This should work on the layout. Road is under repair and hides the seam. Remove/reassemble in 5 minutes.
Or you could stage an accident, flat tire, etc.
One unrelated question. The floodlight tower… is it LED or the old burn out every hour style bulb? If no LED, don’t forget to convert it while you can easily do so.
Andy, Sorry for you, but glad to know I'm not the only one and am losing it!
Bill, Excellent scene and point of interest. Road repair is certainly something we see here in Pennsylvania all spring, summer, and fall. I just saw something that says Pennsylvania roads are in the worst shape in the nation. I know our Ohio and Michigan friends, and maybe some others, would beg to differ. There is a steep, winding road going down into town a mile from home; (wait a minute! every road going into town is steep and most are winding. The couple that aren't winding look like you are going down one of the inclines in Pittsburgh off of Mount Washington 
) They have worked since spring putting in a new water line down that hill. They made scads of straight cuts in the asphalt. Now they are filled in with black asphalt making for a nice straight line, although they are pretty bumpy.
The floodlight tower is a '70s era plastic unit that someone threw in the box when I bought something here on the Forum. You might say the LED conversion has started, in that it came with 3 of the bayonet type incandescent bulbs missing and one socket has a Christmas tree light instead of the stock bulb. It is on the list for LEDs when I replace the bulbs in my passenger cars and cabooses. The plastic also needs a paint job. Thank you for pointing it out, because as we have been discussing; I can get ahead of myself!!
I knew that I was approaching 5 years since I started this thread. My initial post dated January 8, 2017 is quoted below. It has also been 2 years since I gave up on Plan 'C' and started the present layout, Plan 'D'. (Yes, I date myself back to 'Back to the old drawing board' days as a draftsman using pencil on velum, as opposed to the 'computer age' where the plans would have been numbered 1.0 through 1.4.) But I digressed.
@Mark Boyce posted:As I have mentioned on other topics, our last daughter married in September, leaving us empty nesters. Just a week ago, I helped her and our son-in-law move the rest of her things out of an 11’ 6” x 11’ 4” basement room she had been using as an art studio. This will be my layout room. While I have built layouts in HO and N scales, this will be my first in O gauge, not counting the temporary 4x8 temporary layout that has our Christmas theme and my Ceiling Central RR in a similarly sized room diagonal to the new layout room.
I have hesitated starting a topic of my own layout design as I have been struggling getting some thoughts down on what I am looking to accomplish and realistically look at obstacles and how to address them. First, this is the most room I have ever had for a layout since my first back when I was about 12, but I never built in O gauge, so there are definite restrictions.
I envision this layout depicting the Appalachians, as I have observed in my home state of Pennsylvania and states of Virginia and West Virginia, where I have lived in the past. It seems I like anything that was around before I was born in 1956, so steam to diesel transition era works. I am not sticking to a year or decade. If there is a car or engine I like that is a bit newer, it will be on the layout. Here are some things I want to include:
- A small town
- Some mountains
- I want a look of the trains going somewhere, but realize I may have to rely on imagination in a room less than 12 x 12
- Coal trains and operating accessories
- Logging trains and operating accessories
- Mixed freight
- Passenger trains
- An area of operating accessories for future grandchildren which could be at a lower level than the rest of the track.
- There are more I will add as they come to mind or as you ask questions.
Some thoughts on how to accomplish this in such a small space. As the preliminary SCARM diagram shows. There is a sliding glass door on the right-hand wall as you enter the door from the rest of the basement. I need to keep full access to it. My thoughts have been a ‘U’ shaped layout with the open end of the ‘U’ facing the door. There are 2 windows as well. I do not want to be stretching across the layout, but may have to have turnback loops at the ends of the ‘U’. To accommodate my Premier N&W J 611, Weaver Gold Edition B&O Cincinnatian, and their consists, I think I would have to include a loop around the room. My thoughts have been to put that at the highest level, with lift-out bridges at the opening of the ‘U’.
These are initial thoughts that have been with me for a good while. It is time to put them out there for anyone who wishes to participate to ask questions, give suggestions, or just chat in general. At the outset, I want to thank everyone who contributes in any way. I want to get this close to what works best for me, because I do not want to count on doing heavy rebuilding at a later age. At 60, I realize I could be hampered in the heavier construction sooner than I would hope.
I thought it would be an interesting exercise to look back at my first thoughts and see where 5 years and the input form so many great, knowledgeable friends has taken me. Since I have little to add to the 'Finished wiring, What's next?' transition, I thought I would throw this out for any reflection any of you may offer. Feel free to go back and peruse Page 1 if you wish.
Happy New Year!!!
Happy New Year Mark! I went back over page 1 as you suggested. I think you have accomplished much of what you set out to do. What’s next? I think to choose various areas of the layout and complete the scenery for that space. Which area you choose is best known to you.
Andy
Mark, you’ve made plenty of progress. It may seem like it’s a slow journey but in following your posts. I don’t see to many do overs or anything getting ripped up and starting over. You hit quite a few things on your checklist.
I started over 30 years ago. Still working on the same layout. Envisioned heavy mainline traffic modeling the NYC and having numerous passenger trains. I have a large layout space. But what I was trying to accomplish just wasn’t working. The layout just seemed overwhelmed with trains. The layout never changed that much. But instead of buying ready to run NYC, B&A equipment. I turned to modeling the Rutland. Which involves a lot of modeling as not much is available. Luckily they really don’t have a huge variety roster to model. Smaller engines and few but short passenger trains. I have many duplicate engines just with different numbers.
The videos you’ve posted look good to my eye. Smaller engines and decent sized consists. While not a huge area. The twice around with grades does make it seem like the train is going somewhere other than a circle. Hope to see some scenery this year on it. That will help pull off the effect even more.
Mark you have very well with your layout construction and looks very nice. You are WAY ahead of me I am still wiring. I built 4 of GRJ watchdogs and got them installed this weekend and that is about where I will take a break. I ran out of two wire colors and had to order 2 more 100 foot roles of each. Keep up the great work you have a lot to be proud of and accomplished.
Mark,
I agree with the above statements. You have come a long way with this project and have made great use of your space. I think the pace you have taken has made for the necessary time to just run trains. The next phases coming will present you with a lot of creativity but if those trains are not running as desired, it will take away from it. Congratulations on your progress and thanks for sharing it with all of us.
Dave
It's important that we note where we have been and how we got to the present state. "Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it".
Keep up the good work!
George
Mark, if you are half as complementary to your family as you are to others on this forum you are in a great place regardless of the train layout.
I have enjoyed this past year watching your progress, and was inspired by your posts to share mine. Happy new year!
There is a lot that you have completed and probably had not thought about 5 years ago. The bridges are something that come to mind or relays and all that fun stuff. Seems to me that when you ran the trains in the Fall and had your dream consist on the tracks you reached a major milestone.
Here is to the next five years without the medical issue.
Mark......keep up the great work.......and, thank you for sharing your journey with us!
Peter
And let's not forget, knee replacement and back surgery in between....
You've made great progress Mark. I've enjoyed following your build as time has gone by. I'm 7 years in at the end of the month and I can't believe how fast the time has gone.
Needless to say, you have stuck to your plan for the most part. With some nudging on the engine house and yard....
. The layout is going to be beautiful when it's done. Run trains and enjoy your accomplishments. The scenery will get there in due time.
Bob
Thank you everyone for the comments!
Andy, Yes I made a start on scenery. Not much to speak of yet. This was made from a bunch of left over pieces. I do need to buy some more Styrofoam for the base.
Dave C, You are right. Once I got started on Plan D, construction has flowed pretty well. I did hit a lot on the checklist. One thing that I didn't is like you switching to Rutland. The N&W J and B&O Cincinnatian are long gone; sold and much more Western Maryland has been purchased. I do have a B&O and a Chessie engine and a couple caboose of each.
Rick, I'm glad you got the GRJ Watchdogs working. It is interesting you mentioned wire. I have plenty of the #14 red and black I used for the track power feeds, but barely have any of the smaller wire I used for the switches and uncouplers. I switched colors a couple of times for one more run, but it is obvious where the changes are. I just picked up the corrected drawings yesterday, and will have to make final copies before some of the scratch-outs don't make sense to me anymore. I'll have to buy more wire before the next wiring project.
Dave, So far running trains has worked out pretty well. The last problem was where one engine hit the DZ1000 mounting screw, but that wasn't much of an issue.
George, You are right about looking back and not forgetting where you came from. That can help pinpoint where a particular action led to a problem down the road that can be remembered for future problems.
Dan, Thank you! I'm glad to be able to inspire others, just like others inspired me.
Bill, Five years ago, and even 2 years ago, I had no intention of buying any AIUs. Now I have two in service and one extra. Thank you for all the help on getting them setup and wired. That doubleheader coal train with the pusher was a particular goal. I actually let it sit on the layout and didn't run any other trains for about a month because I hated to break up the train. The next 5 years without medical issue would be great! Between my wife and I, we have had 13 surgeries performed by that orthopedic group in the last 20 years. The most serious of those have been in the last 5 years. Both the knee and the hand specialists always chuckle when they see us back! $$
Peter, Thank you!
Bob, How could I forget the knee and back surgeries?? Today was rough taking down the Christmas tree and some other assorted decorations. I intended to leave the yard Nativity out there past January 6th. If the weather is too bad, it may stay until spring. You are right about sticking to the plan. The enginehouse and yard were new. I intended to fit in an extra siding or two, but didn't know where until I had the track basically done.
I have been moving stuff around under the layout making some more room. Work space is really at a premium.
Thank you again for all the great comments!
You should post some videos of the trains making their way around your layout Mark!
Bill Yo, I have one of the train Bill Webb mentioned above. I’ll have to look it up and post it. What I need to do is get the hoppers off the layout and do a video of a mixed freight or passenger train. Thank you for the suggestion!!!
You had the video of the hopper train and I really enjoyed it! I'm the type of person that likes to see the entire layout instead of trying to assemble it in my head from pictures.
I'll see what I can do to show the whole layout, Bill!
Your progress despite the medical issues is re-Mark-able.
Seriously, I know how that goes. Just the most recent three years: my wife had three hip replacements in one year (2018, all on the same hip), I was hospitalized in 2019, and my wife broke her ankle in 2020 with a long convalescence. Let's say that progress on my layout has been minimal, so I am very impressed with what you have managed to do. 
Happy New Year Mark. 5 years, oh my goodness. Seems like that will hit the York 5 years ago first timers reunion for us. Glad to see you get going on things and come out where you have gotten to.
I remember what Gun Runner John said about scenery, which is an extremely helpful perspective to have. He said, "I can do everything with electronics, Harry is the scenery guy. I don't need too much fancy stuff..." Or something pretty much on par with that.
The main thing is that you are still moving right along(down the tracks am I allowed to say?). While it may have been a long bit since I have really looked hard at things on this topic, it always brings a smile a mile wide just reading a few comments or a few pages(if possible for me if time permits). I still think one of the best things I had seen last year was the bridges and how you made them lift bridges. Gotta give that to you. Keep things going Mark, and who knows, maybe my Railroad CEO will eventually decide to break ground, lol.
Steve, thank you for the compliment. Seeing your post reminds me to remark that I have the parts you sent me to fix the top of the smaller truss bridge sitting on a shelf. IT is interesting, that when the train is running, I never notice the gap on the top of my bridge. I'll get to that one day. I'm sorry about all of your surgeries, especially about your wife's trouble with the hip.
Dave, thank you! Yes we are coming up on that meeting at our first trip to York. I still remember you walking up to me, and I didn't recognize you because of your sunglasses. I still have my two York passes in the holder hanging in the train room. Thank you about the lift bridges. It just shows what we can learn by sharing on the Forum. I got the idea and some coaching from Mike G., then I worked out how to adapt it to my situation. I've been pleased it still works good. I hope you get time to break ground as well.
You've come a long way in 5 years and have trains up and running so feel good about your accomplishments!
-Greg
Greg, Thank you! Yes I am pleased. This is the farthest I have gotten on a layout in 25 years. Raising our family and moves to different houses because of employment changes took priority, as they should.
Mark, Reflecting on the last five years, well since I've only been on this forum for less than one, I can only say that from reading past posts that you have a great layout well underway. Well planned and executed trackwork, excellent wiring, two awesome lift bridges, and a good start on the scenery base. All this is a huge accomplishment and something to be proud of!
Perhaps even more importantly, is the advice, moral support and encouragement you continually offer to others here on the forum. I'm very glad you and others with a similar mindset are a part of this community. Thank you for all of your contributions.
Steve, thank you for the encouraging words to me. I totally agree that there are so many folks here who have a similar mindset. You are welcome, I am happy to encourage others. You have contributed so much t this forum yourself that I wouldn't have thought you have only been here less than a year!!!
BillYo, I am working on setting up a new train to video on the layout. I hope to have something to share soon!
Mark, you're welcome. Thank you for the compliment.
Mark, you've come a long way in 5 years. You are inspiring me to keep going with mine, be it ever so slow.
John
Here are a couple videos as Youngstown Bill requested.
The first video just shows a pan of the view as I walk in the door of the train room to give a lay of the land.
This one is a video inside the layout main operating area is of the RailKing Western Maryland Pacific #204 pulling a 4-car train of heavyweights. I started the video with the train running below the camera to give a bit of continuity from the first video. The semi-scale RailKing train doesn't look too bad as it passes scale engines and cars. These are the only semi-scale models I run on the layout.
Here is the Altoona Model Works Branchline Station kit as it stands now. The instruction sheets are very well done. I'm following it exactly as directed. So far it is a simple box of Masonite sheathed with thin clapboard siding sections. It has gone together well with Ailene's glue as suggested in the instructions. The next step is to paint the shell, the roof sections, and the doors, windows, and trim. I'll use Western Maryland gray with red trim.
And now for something completely different!
As an aside, I took a few shots of the CN (former B&LE) train going past the Cleveland Cliffs (former Armco) plant as I was going into the Rite Aid pharmacy. There were two engines on the point, and two engines pushing. This is the end of the train, and all the hoppers are still lettered BLE. I finally got photographs that show road numbers of some engines to look up what they are. I can't tell one modern engine from another. These are both SD70M-2, engine numbers 8804 and 8827 on the end.
(And no; I am not standing beside my car. My car is at least 15 years older.)
@BlueComet400 posted:Mark, you've come a long way in 5 years. You are inspiring me to keep going with mine, be it ever so slow
John
Thank you very much, John!!!
Great progress Mark
You and GRJ always aspire me to get back at my layout. 
I was busy in November preparing for winter; I live in NH. I spent December in Canada, visiting my family. Now, I'm ready to get back at my model railroad.
Mark, the video is really nice. You have a lot of action with the railroad, town etc.
Keep inspiring us!
No one ever expects the B&LE!
Thanks so much for the video! I'm jealous that you can run some trains! I can't wait to get to that point.
Great catch on the trains! I didn't know Cleveland Cliffs acquired a plant in Butler. I also didn't know CN came down here.
Thank you, Keith, Bob, Steve, and Bill!
Keith, That is good you can settle down for the winter and work on your layout!!
Bob, I guess there is a lot you can do on a layout to make it seem like a lot of activity before you get real scenery started.
Steve, A often see B&LE, now CN, trains in addition to the Cliffs diesel, and the B&P on my side of the Connoquenessing Crick with Pennsylvania Route 8 in the foreground from that old, rather run down shopping center. We live high up on the hill above it, and we frequent Rite Aid, Dollar General, and Ace Hardware. I usually don't get a chance for a good photograph, though.
Bill, I know it is hard to wait on building a layout while you have to prepare a room. You are doing it the right way. Get some basic backdrop on that Masonite before you get to building too much benchwork. I was fussing with backdrop standing on my two-step platform reaching over to get the backdrop secured, and as can be seen in the videos, places on the backdrop still need work.
Yes, Cleveland Cliffs acquired Armco/AK two years ago, I believe. They also got the main plant in Middletown, Ohio. CN acquired the B&LE 5 to 10 years ago I suppose, but it has only been the last couple years that I am seeing their own power instead of the older B&LE engines. They still operate a yard just north of Butler and interchange with the B&P there near the B&P shops easily seen from US 422 and Pennsylvania Rt 68. There is still a lot of railroad action for a town of 13,000. Then they head south to North Bessemer at Unity Junction east of Pittsburgh. If you are on the Pennsylvania Turnpike, you can see the end of the yard there a mile or two east of the Turnpike and Bessemer Allegheny River crossing. I grew up in the rural part of the county along the B&O, but CSX now runs few trains since they bought the P&LE water level route.
Thank you everyone for looking and commenting!!
@palallin posted:No one ever expects the B&LE!
Our chief weapons are fear and surprise.......
Nice videos Mark. As I'm watching it occurred to me that the grades are workable on the 11' wall. When I get to rebuild one day, my longest dimension is 12'. Two-level operation is a must have for me.
Bob
Looking great Mark!! I miss going to the Bessemer yard! Really miss watching the Union RR too!
Thank you, Bob and Pete!
Bob, The grade against the wall is 4%. The SCARM plan showed it at 3.7%, so I used Woodland Scenics foam risers. Then I tapered the grade at the top and bottom for a smooth transition, making the grade less there. You should be good to go in 12 feet. One engine can pull a normal train up the 4%. I needed a helper only when I ran a 10-car hopper train up the grade, but extra engines was the whole point of the exercise. I wanted to double head on the point and have a rear pusher for fun! The other grade was a little less on SCARM, then I lengthened the tangent tracks making for a slightly longer run over the trestles lessening the grade slightly.
Pete, I knew right away from your profile name "Little Giant" that you are interested in the P&LE and this area. Yes 1035 miles is a little far to go railfanning. I have only watched trains at the Bessemer yard on video. Thank you for joining in on the discussion!!!
Since we moved back to the area in '95, we first lived close to the Bessemer & Lake Erie yard and Buffalo & Pittsburgh shops north of Butler, then bought my wife's grandparents' house on the hill south of town almost overlooking the Armco/AK Steel/Cliffs plant. They do a lot of switching there too.
@Mark Boyce posted:Bob, The grade against the wall is 4%. The SCARM plan showed it at 3.7%, so I used Woodland Scenics foam risers. Then I tapered the grade at the top and bottom for a smooth transition, making the grade less there. You should be good to go in 12 feet. One engine can pull a normal train up the 4%.
I can't believe that's 4%. It looks reasonable. People always say 4% isn't a good idea but that looks fine to me!
Did you just set the transition as you felt necessary? I haven't seen any rule of thumb or anything for getting up to the grade.
Bill, Since the prototype Western Maryland Railway Black Fork Grade is over 3.5%, 4% seemed the logical choice. Way back 5 years ago, I tested my engines pulling cars up various grades I mocked up on the floor. As I recall all the engines could pull trains of the lengths I would use on this small layout up even steeper grades. Perhaps those who are saying that is too steep are pulling trains of 10, 20, 30 cars up long grades on much longer layouts. Then I could see they could get in trouble.
The transitions were really trial and error. On past layouts, I used the old cookie cutter method of cutting the plywood and putting in risers to make any grade I wanted with automatic easy transitions from horizontal to the grade. On this layout, since the SCARM grades were near 4% and my carpentry skills are digressing, I copped out and used Woodland Scenics 4% foam risers. The problem with them is, you have to taper into the grade at the bottom of the grade and then back out to horizontal at the top. I had one steam engine that kept shorting out at the bottom of the grade, and front wheels would lift off the track at the top of the grade. I did so much cutting and shimming, it would have been easier to go back to the cookie cutter I learned back in the old Kalmbach Publishing book, 'HO Railroad that Grows' that I just about wore out when I was a teenager in the late '60s and early '70s. If I build another layout, I'll go back to the plywood cookie cutter method for sure!
I feel like the warnings I've read were to stay under 3% but I also found up to 5.5% worked ok and still looked good.
I thought it might be something like this I'm more nervous about working up to the grade than the grade itself!
Bill, I just laid a long board on the floor, then propped up one end with blocks of wood, and laid straight track on it. I put an engine with so many cars an the track, applied power, and tested it out.
As has been said time and time again on this forum and other places, it is ultimately your railroad; do what you like and what works.
Good morning, Mark, the videos are great! You sure have come a long way from the time I joined the forum! Everything looks like it's going to be a fun RR to run and when you get the scenery done, I bet it's going to look outstanding! Thanks for the update and I will be being PMing you with a question about your video!
I hope you have a great day and are staying safe!
Mark,
Good idea on the testing methodology and likewise, the advice on transition also makes a lot of sense. Common sense applies. I can recall as a kid being able to pull my three passenger cars with a magnetraction Hudson up a steep grade of Lionel trestle since I had to do so in a short distance - I believe it was probably a 4x10 or so layout. I also did so with a short freight. But I do remember it wouldn’t work if there were curves involved or if I began adding more cars. The takeaways from that is it depends on what you want to accomplish. So using your advice, include curves and a typical consist in the testing, and if it works, you’re set! If you have plans for something more, then think twice?
Bob
A variable to keep in mind is that a curve on a grade adds significantly to the difficulty an engine has pulling its train. I had to rethink my previous layout because there was a relatively gentle grade on a curve, and one of my engines just couldn't make it up the hill pulling more than 2 cars.
Thank you, Mike, Bob, Steve!
Mike, I’m glad to see you aren’t shoveling snow. It is cold, but no snow here. I’ll be looking for your message.
Bob and Steve, you are both right about curves hindering pulling power. I knew that going in, but didn’t test it. I was fortunate to get away with it here. So, Bill definitely keep it in mind. I appreciate Bob and Steve mentioning it, so I don’t lead you astray!!
Hey Mark, I forget to mention the other day that I finally got in watching the two videos you posted above. Yeah, it took a bit to get them in because of how active things were this past weekend(Go Steelers). I really do enjoy a nice slow steam locomotive just going through the motions(as it were) climbing up and coming back down. Also working on that Altoona Model Works Station, brave. I have not even started working on my New Haven Signal Tower. I just don't seem to have the time to sit down and work on something that will take a bit. I think I need to pick up some supplies still that I haven't got around to picking up. Ugh. Everything looks dang good so far Mark.
Dave, I'm glad you got a chance to view the videos. I like slower trains, in fact, that is one reason I went with HO when young, because all the Lionel trains I saw then were run fast. Of course that was at the end of the postwar era, where slow speed control wasn't available. The slower train makes the trip seem longer and the layout larger. It takes almost 3 minutes to go around the small layout.
I considered the Altoona Model Works Station a step to build up to the more intricate Carolina Craftsman Kit station I have. This one has been straightforward, so far. Yes, Western Pennsylvanians are pumped up over the Steelers seemingly impossible entry to the playoffs.
Just caught up with everything.......I love the video with the Western Maryland heavyweight consist......MTH can motors with traction tires and speed control make it effortless!
I look forward to mare progress....
Peter
@Mark Boyce posted:I like slower trains,
This is one major difference between operating as a kid and operating now. Now I love the slow train when I run the modern stuff. It looks realistic and I like hearing the defined chuffs instead of the clatter of cars rolling along. I don't know how many times I rolled my poor 4-4-2 off the track as a kid because I was setting land speed records.
The old heavy post war engines have their own sounds when you turn up the throttle though! No railsounds needed haha
Thank you Peter and Bill!
Peter, I'm glad you liked the videos. You are right, these engines do a great job compared to what we had growing up!
Bill, I said something similar at the Zelienople club meeting last evening. We are planning a small modular layout with several loops. Someone asked if we were going to put in switches. We agreed for a modular setup for the public we wouldn't. My comment was that kids just want to see trains go round and round; and yes, the faster the better.
Great videos Mark! The older I get, the slower I go and so do my trains... LOL
I hear you well on that, John!! Thank you, I’m glad you liked the videos.
I have been experimenting with different trains. I discovered I do have enough time to switch a train while the other traverses the layout. For instance, The log train was on the main line when the passenger train passed it using the passing siding. While I let the passenger train circle the layout, I moved the log train to the passing siding.
Last evening I pulled a Premier PS2 B&O Mike and caboose off the shelf for a first ride on the layout. I haven't setup a train with it yet.
Here is the latest on the Altoona Model Works Branch Line station. It is really a Masonite box with sheathing attached. I intend to put it on the corner as you walk in the door replacing on old Lionel freight station. I'm not going to try to open the freight doors to detail inside the loading area, but will make the roof removable and detail the freight desk area inside the bay window at a later time. There will be a nice dock around all 4 sides that can be detailed with all kinds of stuff and people as time permits.
Coming along nicely, Mark!!!
Peter
Mark you are making great progress and it really looking good keep up the great work. At the rate you are going you may have to un retire to keep busy with the layout finished!🤣😄🚂🚂
Awesome layout so far, by the way as i know you been looking at the early design of mine your way further along than me but i am actually following your topic, i got 60 pages to read to see all the things you did on yours. I am going to take any lessons learned and examples especially with your scenary designs and your track elevations with the foam and woodland scenics project because we have decided to engage elevating my main line at this point which i plan to incorporate your elevation idea you did as far as materials and how to do it. Your layout is very similar to my space and this helps me understand what i can do and to see yours running is also huge encouragement to me because i know at some point i will be running trains just like you! As i look at yours run i envision take it slow, do it right , test it as i go and dont jump into things take my time as this isn't a rush hobby.
What i did do, to tickle my itch of having a train run, i have lots of fast track i took down and some lighted christmas fasttrack i lay on the floor to just run my locos and watch them steam, even just something as simple as watching them steam and run keeps is something that i really enjoy. It doesn't take much with this hobby to make me happy
Mark,
The building is coming along quite nicely. Keep us posted when you get to the next step.
Dave
Thank you, Peter, Rick, Dave Hall, Dave Luvindemtrains!
Rick, I certainly hope I don't have to unretire! I can certainly keep busy with something!! 
Dave Hall, There are certainly lessons to be learned on this 63 pages. I mentioned a few on your design topic. You are learning well. You will see in these 63 pages how I scrapped one plan before building benchwork, started a second plan, only to move to a larger room, then abandon the larger layout space when our older daughter couldn't move her piano and other furniture as planned. Some concepts held through the whole time, and others were developed. Also, you will see on Plan D (the current one) that I added track features after track was laid according to the SCARM plan! I'm glad to have you following along!!!!
Dave Luvindemtrains, I will keep updating the progress on the station. I hope to use it to build confidence on laser cut structures to tackle the Thomas, West Virginia station kit from Carolina Craftsman Kits.
Now that is some great stuff Mark. Whenever I get mine built, there'll be two main lines and some sidings, a shorter inner loop for whatever purpose I guess I could use. There's supposed to be a river coming up on that end so I need 3 bridges(short) to have over there. Of course it would be great if I had the room cleared and was building, but been sick for a spell and nothing has been getting done in what spare time I have. This past weekend was really annoying with being sick, even missed Mondays work because of it. I guess I'll be tuning in some football this weekend in my spare time as well. I just need to recover I guess.
Mark the station is a nice addition.
Model Tech Studios offers some nice pieces for a station… train dispatcher, REA agent sorting mail, etc. Not cheap but what we have purchased appears to be quality stuff and looks good.
Glad to see the progress continuing.
Thank you, Dave and Bill!
Dave, I'm sorry you have been under the weather and hope you get back to normal soon. I've sure had some times recently where I didn't feel like doing anything on the layout, or wasn't even supposed to go down to the train room. Take a load off and root on you favorite team(s) to victory! In these parts, folks are sad the season is over for the Steelers, but I think most are proud of what they did considering the needs they had at certain positions and players' health. #7 can now join #12 in the discussions on which was the best QB.
Bill, I looked at the first couple pages of Model Tech Studios O scale items and bookmarked the page. They do look great! That is one advantage of a small layout, you can make it look presentable with less things.
@Mark Boyce posted:Thank you, Dave and Bill!
Dave, I'm sorry you have been under the weather and hope you get back to normal soon. I've sure had some times recently where I didn't feel like doing anything on the layout, or wasn't even supposed to go down to the train room. Take a load off and root on you favorite team(s) to victory! In these parts, folks are sad the season is over for the Steelers, but I think most are proud of what they did considering the needs they had at certain positions and players' health. #7 can now join #12 in the discussions on which was the best QB.
Bill, I looked at the first couple pages of Model Tech Studios O scale items and bookmarked the page. They do look great! That is one advantage of a small layout, you can make it look presentable with less things.
Yup, stinks on ice as the old saying goes. I told a few people at work that I've never had it that bad of what I had. Only person that would know I can't ask, mom. She knew how to fix you, just like all mother's.
Yeah, I wish I could get going on the layout, would be great to start working and moving along. I guess that will come in due time as they say.
As far as team, only one, Steelers born and bred I guess the saying would go. There are a few teams I'll watch because I love football. Big Ben will get to Canton. A remarkable career with tons of hits on him, and the ability to keep the dry alive. Almost sounds like a steam locomotive, keep on rolling as it were. See what comes.
Oh, BTW, be very interring to see how that station finishes up. I can remember in my HO days regretting gluing doors shut instead of having them open. Ah, but part of the mystery would be what's going on behind closed doors I suppose, eh?
Dave, about the doors. These doors could be cut and placed in the open position. I would assume the way to do it would be to cut a 1/16" or so below the valence windows so they have a non-opening frame underneath. Then cut the remaining door in half and position them opening in so as not to foul the loading dock that still needs installed. Here is a cropped photograph for a close up. I'm going to add the door frame trim as is. If I change my mind, I can always pop the doors out and start hacking away.
For now, my story is that it is rapidly going down to zero degrees tonight, and they closed the doors as soon as they are done moving something in or out.
Mark Boyce, I sure enjoyed watching the above videos, especially the double header Western Maryland locomotives pulling the long string of beautiful coal cars with another Western Maryland pusher/helper locomotive and beautiful caboose trailing the train. The up and over plan is so cool. I enjoyed the chuffing rhythm of the trains, so relaxing. Your trains ran smoothly and showed no problems with your great track work. You’ve come a long way, yes your Black Water Canyon Railroad has come a long long way. Keep up the great work. You also have some really nice buildings and stations, awesome. Happy Railroading Everyone
I echo leapinlarry. The smoothness suggests attention to detail and careful work when laying the track, doing the wiring, and maintaining the locos.
Thank you, Larry and Steve!
Larry, I liked the chuffing of all three engines as well. In my teenage years, I always played the radio with the Pittsburgh Top 40 AM station playing while running my HO train or working on the layout. Of course, the engines had no sound, and we couldn't pick up the FM station. With engine sounds, I never play music but listen to the music of those nice sound systems MTH and Lionel have produced.
As all of us know, the builder of anything knows where every flaw is, but the viewer doesn't see them. I did spend a lot of time on the track. Memories of early 1980's N scale steam engines' poor running on the slightest flaw in track may have inspired me to putting in the effort now. I am unhappy with a few places. The grade on the K-Line plastic trestle bents is one area. However, that is still considered temporary, so I quit fooling with it since every engine and car negotiates that area fine. The lower lift up bridge is the major offender. I tore that apart several times trying to shim everything to get a smoother transition from the table to the bridge on both ends. Nothing derails anymore, so I quit fooling with it. The cars make the still familiar clickety clack sound as they go over the joints, which brings back old memories. The upper bridge hides the trains enough from the camera angle in the videos, so that wasn't so noticeable to the viewer.
How timely you both mention the track. Last evening, I was running the B&O Mike and had trouble with both the pilot and trailing wheels derailing as I backed it out of the siding over switches. It tracks fine going forward. I haven't had that trouble with the Consolidations or the Decapod. Maybe it is something with that engine, since I bought it pretty well used from a Forum member at a really generous discount, but have hardly run it. I'll look into it some more.
Mark, please don't fret over things to much! I think your doing an outstanding job and your layout is coming along just great! You are correct that there are areas that we all want to fix but live with now as things seem to work. Those are things you fine tune when you are getting close to being done! LOL Like that ever happens! Either way I think you're doing a great job!
Thank you Mike! I'm not fretting over it, the track is done; unless I find everything starts derailing on a turnout or something. I've been pleased with the layout. I would have liked a longer run, but I think I made about the most of the space I have. Well, it's going down below zero again tonight. Good to stay in tomorrow.
@Mark Boyce posted:Thank you Mike! I'm not fretting over it, the track is done; unless I find everything starts derailing on a turnout or something. I've been pleased with the layout. I would have liked a longer run, but I think I made about the most of the space I have. Well, it's going down below zero again tonight. Good to stay in tomorrow.
I know your not Mark, just trying to remind you to have fun!
Track work keeps the MOW crews employed Mark.
I recently made a minor repair to a section of track that was causing my Menards F7 to derail. Aggravating at first, but satisfying after.
Bob
Thank you, Mike and Bob! You are two of my best supporters!!!!
Having fun! Yes, that is why I'm going to look at the Mikado some other day. I have other things planned for the layout today.
Yes, MOW employees need work too! I've never been one who likes fixing things. Maybe that is why I never really liked my chosen employment. However, what job doesn't require fixing things to some degree? Yes, The best part of fixing things, is being glad it is done!
The station looks sharp Mark! I like the color scheme, very nice.
Andy
@Mark Boyce posted:Dave, about the doors. These doors could be cut and placed in the open position. I would assume the way to do it would be to cut a 1/16" or so below the valence windows so they have a non-opening frame underneath. Then cut the remaining door in half and position them opening in so as not to foul the loading dock that still needs installed. Here is a cropped photograph for a close up. I'm going to add the door frame trim as is. If I change my mind, I can always pop the doors out and start hacking away.
For now, my story is that it is rapidly going down to zero degrees tonight, and they closed the doors as soon as they are done moving something in or out.
Yeah, it's been getting dang cold. The rain we had a week or so ago has filled the circle in the driveway, which is solid ice. When I was a young lad, spent many Winters on the ice of the brook by our house. My dad even tried to make a skating rink for my sister using just wood and plastic. Unfortunately two things made that fail, not cold enough and the plastic got a tear somewhere. Also, doors are better closed, shows that they have already moved all the freight out and about.
Thank you, Andy and Dave.
Andy, I think it matches the Western Maryland Railway prototype photographs I have seen pretty well. Red and white with a little age, but still well maintained in the 1950s.
Dave, It's snowing now. It is predicted for all day today and well into tomorrow. It's another good day to stay in. My brother and I used to go down to the crick in the woods and push a piece of wood around with brooms like we were playing hockey. We didn't have skates, so we just wore our boots. Wow, that was 50 years ago!! I like your take on the closed doors. I'm going with that scenario. I finally found my sanding stick to clean out the bay window openings. A file would have been hard to make a nice straight edge.
With this week's snow cleaned up a couple days ago and frigid temperatures outside, I worked on the Altoona Model Works Branch Line Station kit. The roof is almost done, and the dock boards have been stained in the first photograph.
Here it is complete as designed by the kit makers.
To make the roof removable, I had to cut and install bracing at the right slope to match the ends and the center support. I have a hole drilled through the floor for wires, but don't have LEDs yet to install wiring. You can see the empty interior which will stay as is for now, since I don't have anything to put in it.
Here it is in place on the layout. I still want to streak the roofing some and tone down the wooden loading dock decking. I think this station is actually a small freight and passenger station. It will look pretty good there until I get the items needed to finish it off.
I was looking over the Carolina Craftsman Kits Thomas, West Virginia station kit just now. It has a two story section with a hip roof and a one story gabled roof section. The walls are all brick laser cut into thin siding. It will be a little change of pace.
There was one day this week that didn't snow or the temperatures weren't zero to mid-teens. I visited my 91-year old parents that day, and never got the Styrofoam for scenery. There are temperatures above freezing and little snow predicted for mid week, so I hope to get the Styrofoam soon.
Looking real good Mark. It takes two things to do what you are doing. Patience and Time!
Nice work on the station Mark. Weathering and detailing will add to it even more.
We got about 10" from yesterday's storm. The sun is out today but high temp is only 25 deg. 
Bob
Mark the station looks great.
I won’t show this to Paula. If she sees the empty interior, she will be have a fit to help. Her specialty is doing the interiors including figures… and she does it well.
Keep up the excellent work.
The station looks great Mark! The colors are sharp, and the building is a nice representation. The deck adds a nice touch too. The middle brace might be a good place to hang some lighting. Look forward to the interior details.
Andy
We got about 16” yesterday. Finished cleaning up today after the plows went past last night. Enjoying some playoff football. Hope you guys are too.
Andy
Your station looks great Mark!!
Nice work Mark.
Thank you, Curtis, Bob, Bill, Andy, Pat, Eddie!
Curtis, yes patience and time. For me they go hand in hand. Both are a lot easier to have now that I am not working!!
Bob, you are right; they will make it come alive! I thought you may have gotten more snow than 10". We got that 2 weeks ago.
Bill, no you shouldn't let Paula see it. She does a great job!
Andy, I agree, the middle brace will be where the light will go. Outside lights over the doors would be nice too. I was glad to see Cincinnati won. They have had a rough go of it over the years.
@Mark Boyce posted:Thank you, Curtis, Bob, Bill, Andy, Pat, Eddie!
Bob, you are right; they will make it come alive! I thought you may have gotten more snow than 10". We got that 2 weeks ago.
Very strange storm. 20 miles east of us got twice as much.
@RSJB18 posted:Very strange storm. 20 miles east of us got twice as much.
I thought as much. I saw someone on Facebook in the NYC-Long Island Area measured 21". We get that with the Lake Effect snow off Lake Erie. We get just the edge of it, Pittsburgh doesn't get it, and to the north of us...
@Mark Boyce posted:I thought as much. I saw someone on Facebook in the NYC-Long Island Area measured 21". We get that with the Lake Effect snow off Lake Erie. We get just the edge of it, Pittsburgh doesn't get it, and to the north of us...
My brother in law is west of Syracuse. They can have a bright sunny day, drive a few miles west and be in a blizzard.
@RSJB18 posted:My brother in law is west of Syracuse. They can have a bright sunny day, drive a few miles west and be in a blizzard.
That is how the Lake effect works. It drops snow in bands once you get a short distance from the lake. I read a year or two ago, 4 of the 5 cities with the most snow are near Lake Erie. Erie, Buffalo, Rochester, and Syracuse.
That is one smart station Mark. Looming great. Yeah, the snow was a big problem for me as well. Having no working tractor to plow doesn't help. I got stuck yesterday morning but managed to get free. If only I had train tracks instead of gravel.
Looks good, Mark - one or two old-fashioned green or black goose-neck LED lights might look good hanging on the outside.
Got two feet north of Boston - snowblower was working overtime !
Hi Mark, the station looks great! Very nice work!
I am sorry I did comment sooner but the INSPECTOR is sick and were still dealing with that!
Keep up the great work!
Thank you, Dave, Richie, Mike!!
Dave, I'm glad you got through the snow!
Richie, The green lamps are what I had in mind. It seems I have seen more of them than black.
Mike, Don't feel bad. I knew you were busy with the inspector.
@Mark Boyce Perfect !! Very Nice !
The station looks terrific, Mark.
George
Thank you, Leandro and George!!
Mark that is a really sharp looking station great job love to see it when finish the final touch’s you mentioned
Thank you, Rick!!
I decided to replace the Styrofoam that I had been reusing with new Styrofoam. There isn't a lot to see here, but I thought I would post anyway since it has been a few weeks since I wrote about the station. This new Styrofoam has been easier to work with, and I did a better job of making 3 lift out sections so I can work on them without leaning over two tracks. Each photograph shows one lift out section. This time instead of building up a couple of layers and then gouging out the river bed in the rear, I cut pieces already form the depression. I will just need to form it more to make river banks. It's a start.
Good decision Mark. I was afraid of the other stuff after working with it on a Dept 56 display. Ended up tossing it.
Good move on the sections also. Looks as if will be a lot easier to handle. It will be interesting to watch how you proceed.
Reread the snow comments. My brother lives in Saugatuck, Michigan and used to get a lot of lake effect snow off Lake Michigan (east across the lake from Chicago). In recent years there has been far less snow, higher temps, and very high water levels.
Bill, thank you.
Yes, use on a Christmas display is exactly why my wife brought the other stuff home. It was 'okay' in that instance, basically because it was white. It was tough to reuse even for that. I did wrap in plastic and stack 4 or 5 unused panels up in the attic, since it is cut for home insulation. It will probably still be there when we get our daughter to clean out the attic when I can't crawl around in there anymore.
How I proceed with the scenery sections is a work in progress. First of all, I am not planning on making extra sections to change out. The purpose is to pretty much finish each and only remove it if I need to get at any wiring. Making a hand hold that isn't obvious to the viewer is an issue that stands out. If there were going to be lots of buildings, I could just hide handles under removable buildings. With the intent of at least one section being a wilderness area makes for a problem. I could put in a couple of small trackside structures or a rock section that would hide handles. For now, I am able to reach under the layout and push up on the Masonite bottom of each removable section to pop it up and then grab the front of the section. We will see how things progress. The only time I ever did this before was to cover a turnback loop with a tunnel. In that case I just lifted the whole top off, which was no challenge at all.
Another problem is that I have the small river running from removable section to section. Hiding seams with foliage, rock, or buildings isn't as hard as a seam across water. I could make the river attached to the layout, but it is in the rear of the sections. Also, there is one wire drop from the track to the #14 wire to the panel along the rear track. If I made the river fixed to the layout, I would have to move or lengthen the drop. We will see how all that progresses as well.
In all, I find the above challenges more interesting and fun than the challenges we went through wiring all this up.
Everything is looking great Mark! Glad you are able to start on scenery. That is what makes a layout come to life!
Michael
Can’t get any simpler than that this…….
A suggestion, Mark....I always resisted the WS plaster cloth on my O scale layouts. I used wood, window screen, joint compound, and staples. With my new N scale layout, the extruded foam went perfectly with the plaster cloth, making it easy to shape features. Like you, I got rid of most of the white styrofoam. Too messy, difficult to carve.
I put all kinds of light weight stuff under the cloth to form the mountains. Put it on wet, push-pins to shape it, brown paint for ground cover. Used my old rock molds with sculptamold, carved many of the faces with a simple knife. Then, just added multiple textures and colors, like all the guys do.
Anyway, just a thought. Wanted to let you know that, with this stuff, it was easier than it used to be!
Best wishes,
Jerry
@Mark Boyce posted:Another problem is that I have the small river running from removable section to section. Hiding seams with foliage, rock, or buildings isn't as hard as a seam across water. I could make the river attached to the layout, but it is in the rear of the sections. Also, there is one wire drop from the track to the #14 wire to the panel along the rear track. If I made the river fixed to the layout, I would have to move or lengthen the drop. We will see how all that progresses as well.
In all, I find the above challenges more interesting and fun than the challenges we went through wiring all this up.
Mark- a thought... you could create a small drop in the creek at each joint and cover the seam with rocks that overhang and hide the seam. A small waterfall, weeds, and brush would cover the remaining gaps.
Bob
A waterfall is an excellent suggestion: it is one of a few scenic features that cuts transverse across a stream of water, it will accommodate a change in water level, and rocks and debris can mask the gap. A related item is a shallow dam, such as was used for turbines to turn mill machinery. . . .
@JerryG posted:...With my new N scale layout, the extruded foam went perfectly with the plaster cloth, making it easy to shape features...
Jerry, great looking N-gauge. Hope that you will share more info about your well detailed N layout.
Hi Mark,
Great job on the station. Liked the roof being removable! Sorry for the late comments, finally getting caught up on some of my reading. I’m in rehab so all kinds of time to read, just don’t know how much I’ll remember lol
Very interesting on how you will have access with your scenery build. You always manage to come up with great ideas
good luck
Thank you, Michael, Rich, Jerry, Bob, Steve, John!!
Rich, your layout looks great!
Jerry, As a former N Scaler and HO scaler, your layout looks great! I have a roll of plaster cloth on the shelf under the layout, that I bought a couple years ago to give a try. I didn't expect it to take this long to get to using it. Thank you for the great photographs of your layout. That gives me inspiration to get at it with the plaster cloth on mine.
Bob and Steve, there are many small waterfalls along the real Blackwater Canyon as the Back Fork of the Cheat River falls many feet in a short distance coming off the mountain. The largest falls is Blackwater Falls in Blackwater Falls State Park outside of Davis, West Virginia. I am suspecting I will have to do a good bit of trial and error to get something looking acceptable.
John, Thank you on the station. I'm glad you are catching up on reading while in rehab! I sometimes had difficulty getting comfortable enough to read much in the first few weeks after my surgeries. I hope you get going again quickly!
Looks like you're back on the roll Mark! Things are literally shaping up.
Dave
Looking good Mark, Like Dave said things are coming right along! I will be fallowing you along the way!
@Keystone posted:Jerry, great looking N-gauge. Hope that you will share more info about your well detailed N layout.
Thanks, Keystone! Haha, always happy to show my layouts. I'll try not to abuse Marks's thread, but ask any questions that come to mind.
I started with this. With two large O scale layouts in the basement already, I was out of room. We don't shoot pool anymore so N made sense, and the 1", 4X8 foam board sits on top of an old wood 4X8 on top of the pool table. I added pieces on three of the four sides.
I ended up with this. It's mostly foam, which I'd rarely worked with before. Always wanted Yankee Stadium and lucked out finding an old model, perfect N scale at 1:160, which turned out to be the hardest kit I ever put together.
The table, with pieces added, is about 9x6. Kato track is best, but for the yard and switches it is too large so I used Atlas flex track and switches. They are all manual because the switch motors would take up too much room. The slopes are mostly WS risers, taped over to look solid.
These buildings are mostly Outland Models. No glue, fit precisely. You need to add the lighting and paint.
These planetary cars are battery powered and look sensational. You turn them on and off with a magnet. Can't get them in O scale.
I love those WS buildings. Perfect details. I also used their lighting system for the first time. Ain't cheap, but gives you lots of flexibility while you're trying to decide where to place things. They also have those single stick-ons that you can use with stuff that has no lights in them.
Jim at Bridgeboss provided the solution for my elevated line. A lot of superglue, spray paint, and patience.
I run six trains at a time. Three are conventional, three are DCC controlled. Good sound and functions. With N, you need AT LEAST two engines to pull long consists. That's why DCC, so you can easily lash them up.
Sorry Mark, this came out longer than I thought, but hope you guys enjoy it.
Jerry
That looks great Jerry. Fits right in with your basement full of trains. I grew up with HO since I was an 8 YO. When I got back into the hobby several years ago and wanted to build a layout I decided on O since I always loved my father's old tinplate.
I'm sure Mark will agree.
@JerryG posted:Always wanted Yankee Stadium and lucked out finding an old model, perfect N scale at 1:160, which turned out to be the hardest kit I ever put together.
Do you know who made the kit?
@PSM posted:Do you know who made the kit?
Haha, sort of. I can't find my original link. It was a guy who was a big Yankee fan, serious graphics guy. It's all finely printed cardboard that you have to punch out of flat sheets and fold into precisely cut slots. It looks great, but hard to fit everything perfectly. I used a lot of tape on the backsides, but very little glue. A lady named Ellen on EBay said she had 20 left. Her pal Joan lives in Westport, CT, and I live in CT. They have a shop. Joan ended up sending me the kit. Cost was $100, including the shipping. I did find our emails when we were arranging the sale. I have Joan's email address. I'm sure she'd be pleased to discuss a sale. Let me know if you'd be interested.
Jerry
@JerryG posted:Haha, sort of. I can't find my original link. It was a guy who was a big Yankee fan, serious graphics guy. It's all finely printed cardboard that you have to punch out of flat sheets and fold into precisely cut slots. It looks great, but hard to fit everything perfectly. I used a lot of tape on the backsides, but very little glue. A lady named Ellen on EBay said she had 20 left. Her pal Joan lives in Westport, CT, and I live in CT. They have a shop. Joan ended up sending me the kit. Cost was $100, including the shipping. I did find our emails when we were arranging the sale. I have Joan's email address. I'm sure she'd be pleased to discuss a sale. Let me know if you'd be interested.
Jerry
I may be interested in picking one up, can you pass on her email? My email is in my profile.
Keystone, thank you for asking Jerry for more information about his N scale layout.
Jerry, thank you for posting the information, photographs, and videos of your really nice layout. The Bridgeboss elevated track looks great, as does the Yankee Stadium. Woodland Scenics buildings really look great, but they take up a lot of room in O gauge. I have a couple, but sold a couple because I just don't have the room.
Things are really coming together Mark! Well thought out lift out section options. I have a pop out section on my layout, and I’ll be using the pink extruded foam. It would be lighter in an awkward space. Would that be something for you to consider? It might make the sections easier to lift without the need of a handle.
The seams are a challenge for sure, but always a way to disguise them with scenery of some sort. I’m going to use a WS product that creates ripples or light waves on the water. Maybe that product can help hide the seams in the water.
Andy
Thank you, Andy!
Here is the 'uppermost' section with an extra 1" piece of Styrofoam glued to the underside. That makes a 1" fall in the river right at the joint. It gives me a rough idea of what I could do at the seam. I don't know if the river will be that wide when done, but I gave myself room for a rocky bottom and banks. As far as lifting it out of position. I can always reach under the layout, and push them up, then grab them from above. I thought it would be neat to have something to lift them right out standing up straight. The way I have been going, I don't want to have to get under the layout when I am feeling my worst.
On a side note, I worked on the upper lift up bridge to get a better alignment in the down position. I had settled for it coming to rest about 1/16" off in the pocket I made with wood blocks. I had been nudging it over with my hand to give proper track alignment. Now it falls right into place.
Great build Mark! Thanks for sharing your experience/journey with all of us. Some great advice throughout your entire thread. I only read a few pages but I’ll definitely be back for tips on my current rebuild. Keep up the great work!
@Mark Boyce I think you are having a lot of work done on your layout! great job!
Mark I got behind and just reread what you are doing.
Is it practical to hide some of the drop with rocks, ripples, etc past the waterfall. I was thinking about the James River and the fall line at Richmond and realized that the falls are partially hidden by the downstream features.
Is this for “emergency” use or will it be more often?
Thank you, Rich, Leandro, Bill!!
Rich, I'm glad you are reading through the thread. Thank you for the compliment on the good advice. I think the best advice comes from all of us pooling our knowledge. Some folks have expert knowledge in one area, others in another area, and sometimes getting different ideas from different folks lets me decide what is the best solution for my situation.
Leandro, sometimes I think I haven't done much, then I look back at the dates a page or two back and see progress has been made.
Bill, First of all, I hope your knee replacement went well and you are progressing well in PT.
I know the James River at the fall line quite well. I crossed the James River on the Boulevard (Nickel) Bridge going to and from work every day in 1976-77. I worked for Vepco at an office just off The Boulevard. Every day I had to go to the headquarters building downtown at 7th and Franklin to check things out at the microwave hut on the roof. Then crossed the James River to the System Operator office in Manchester South Side, then back to the telecom office. Those were the early days of telemetry, and the on site visit was necessary. So, I made 4 river crossings every work day. That said, I know what you mean, there isn't really an actual falls, just lots of small drops. If you stand in a stream like that and look upstream, you see layer upon layer of flat water with little drops in between. Based on what I did on the layout yesterday and just now, I think that is a good possibility here.
Yesterday, I looked at where I was going to have the stream pass under the upper track and to the backdrop. Here is the prime location in my opinion. I had a nice foam portal and wing walls that would nicely represent culverts on the prototype that let tributaries flow into the Black Fork. I cut it to size to look like this.
I knew it would be partially covered by the foam base for the scenery, but was disappointed it looked like this. I have trouble visualizing things. I have to do it.
Of course trimming the banks back would help, but not enough. Here are the other potential spots to the right of the one I planned.
The second photographs shows wires to the track above to the right of the culvert. There is another pair of wires for the other track and wires for the DZ1000 back there as well. That part of the scenery does need to be removable for maintenance only.
I ended up removing the extra section of foam that I added underneath two modules a few days go. This looks much better, and will look better still once I carve out the banks a little more.
In the last photograph, the stream will curve around and under the bridge and off the front of the layout with low banks.
Bill, to answer your question the intent was to remove these only for maintenance. A secondary thought was to remove them for actual construction. Actually, there is no reason to remove the one in the left of the next to last photograph, because there are no wires there. Yes, if I put buildings there, I could put lights in them, but the buildings will all be removable, and I'll put in plugs so the wires can be disconnected when removing the building. Here is the only place of concern on the module with the culvert.
I could actually just make a small section of scenery removable to get at that. That would allow me to not have to worry the water area being crossed by a seam at all. Lots of folks say it is easier to work on scenery at the workbench, and then place the module on the layout. I am able to touch the backdrop at every spot while standing at the layout edge, so it isn't like I would be stretching over anything to build scenery in place. I don't have a workbench anyway. Here is my "workbench".
If I need more table space, I have to pull my wife's car out of the garage and set up a card table to work on. I don't know where I would store the module between work sessions anyway, except to move it back onto the layout and get glue and paint on everything while moving it. That isn't a good idea. So, I think I will just make small pull out sections of scenery where the wires are located.
At least that is the plan at this moment.
Trial and error equals what appears to be a doggone good plan. Good job Mark. You have made a lot of trips across the James.
The knee. The Lord has handled this.
Walked into the house three hours after surgery. PT less than 24 hours after surgery, pain level never over a 3, took a cane in case I needed it, after P T had ice on my leg, “Mr Webb, you forgot your cane.”
Measurements that day were 113 flexion and 2 extension which the PT guy couldn’t believe. Monday they were 115 and 0. Saw the doctor’s PA Monday. Paula said that she had a funny look when I walked in. She said that I was so far outside the normal parameters that I was off the chart. We talked less than 5 minutes and she released me. “Call if you need anything.”
I was sitting on my train stool yesterday rolling around and working when it occurred to me that I might want to consider how to get up. Then I realized that I knew how to do so from my first knee surgery when I was finally able to use the stool after 3-4 months.
My doctor does what he calls a Jiffy Knee and doesn’t cut the muscle or tendon. If anyone is interested in info on him, send me an E-mail. Rich Holden who helps on the layout is a retired orthopedic surgeon. He has been amazed and told me that I don’t need PT, can do two exercises, and should be ready to go in three weeks.
Good for you. I am bone on bone right knee. Staring into surgery. I will mention to my Doc your guys work.
Rich
Bill, Thank you on the trial and error! I'm glad your knee is doing great!!! Hooray!! Hopefully they will be doing a Jiffy Knee if I need my other knee done someday. The mess the scar tissue caused ended in much longer PT and was far more painful than the actual knee itself in my case!
Looking great Mark. I tried taking a look at my lunchtime but for some reason the net service was very spotty. All I got was the blue and gray background to show up and no conversation bits. Was taking forever to load so I figured I would have a look when I got home. Nice goings on.
It seems that all of us have trains and knees in common. It makes sense because, after all, our new knees include plastic, metal, glues, screws, construction, reconstruction and modeling. 😉HMMM!
Mark, your work is beautiful!
Bill congrats on the successful replacement - you are poster boy for a successful outcome.
Mark nice progress on Blackwater. I am posting photos of my removable scenery on the main layout thread - don't want to usurp your thread. Jeff
I really like the progress you are making. It does seem slow at times - I'm finishing up a corner of my layout as well to get the upper level finished before I solder wires to the track and it seems like it's taking me forever but I do notice progress so hang in there. I'm determined to take the lessons learned from my last layout to heart to avoid those headaches. You're going about things the right way - take your time, figure things out and then get to building. I'm in the same boat in that I'm a lousy artist and have trouble visualizing finished scene from a blank spot - I need lots of pictures and input from my artistic wife.
-Greg
Thank you, Dave, Rubin, Jeff, and Gregg!
Dave, bummer! A boring lunch time!
Rubin, excellent comment about modelers and our knees!
Jeff, I saw your post over on the other topic. Well done!
Greg, I think a slower pace lets me step back and look things over a bit and see places to make corrections, instead of plowing through with a lot of work, then facing the challenge of living with mistakes or removing a lot of work to make corrections. Our older daughter is the one who could visualize and draw up things in her mind.
Looking really good Mark! Thank you for the inspiration... after 16 months I'm finally there (sort of) for structures and scenery. So many moments of lets change just 'one' more thing... but, all I have to do is check in on you and it keeps me plowing ahead.
@RubinG posted:It seems that all of us have trains and knees in common. It makes sense because, after all, our new knees include plastic, metal, glues, screws, construction, reconstruction and modeling. 😉HMMM!
Mark, your work is beautiful!
If only, like trains, we could make our knees work via command control instead of conventionally !
Mark I'm liking the progress on your layout. Following your thread. I need some ideas once I finally get to landscaping my layout.
Both of my knees are giving me trouble. I finally had the right one checked out. After doc visit, x-ray's, MRI, ortho specialist visit and a little over a $1,000 outta pocket I received a shot in my knee. According to the ortho specialist my knee is in great shape. However the under side of my knee cap has severe deterioration, bone to bone and arthritis.
Only boring if I can't do anything Mark. There are some things I can manage to do on my phone during lunch. Net always seems spotty every now and then, lately moreso. Could be that they are working around in the area and that is why. Progress looks good, that's for sure.
About the river, when you do get around to that portion of work to be done, what sort of work would the river be or is that still on the drawing board? Just curious, but would definitely like to hear what you may/got planned.
Thank you, Dennis, Richie, RJ, Dave!
Dennis, I'm glad to give you some inspiration to carry on. As anyone who followed this thread can see, I had the same issue wanting to get settled on the changes/additions to benchwork and track before moving forward with scenery. Sometimes someone else on the Forum gives me that little nudge as well after seeing what he is doing. I'll be looking forward to seeing how you scenic your nice layout,
RJ and Dave, sometimes I have a good idea of how I want to scenic, but on this layout I have to make so many compromises because of lack of space, those ideas have to be changed drastically. After 10 years in O gauge, I still think like an HO modeler. Dave, if you mean what material I want to use for the water feature, I still have no sure idea. I'm thinking the poured epoxy like Woodland Scenics would be the best choice so you can see through the shallow water to stones below. The painted water surface and shiny coats painted on top seem to me to be best suited for deep water, lakes and harbors. I do have to include my dad and his friend both catching trout, that I do know. Dad's friend actually fished this area of West Virginia when he worked for Westinghouse at Mount Storm power station which my printed backdrop represents. He actually got me the application in 1976, which after submitting it, I ended up getting hired to work in Richmond first.
Richie, I know the problem, the doctor forgot to give me the remote when he replaced my knee!!
RJ, I took my dad to get a shot in his knee 3 or 4 years ago. That was all he needed!! He's 91 now. The shots didn't do diddly for me.
On to the knees. As with cataract surgeries, I was surprised at how many folks had to have them done in their early 60s like me. My replacement was doing well at my 2-year checkup at the end of October; right before I went on Medicare. Over the winter, it has started little popping and gritting and is more painful. I just scheduled a visit with the orthopedic the week after next to see what that is all about, if anything. Monday, I do have to get a myelogram and CT scan on my lower back to see why the sciatic nerve in my other leg still gives me grief. The lumbar fusion was supposed to fix that. Oh well, like I told the back orthopedic last week, I'm glad they pushed me to retire a couple years earlier than I was planning. I don't have to worry about hassles missing so much work, or just slacking while there.
When doing the water pour, refer to Eric's Trains video of his pouring of water. I watched that a great long time ago. Of course you have to do all the mud/creek bottom scenery before pouring as well as making sure not to shake the epoxy water as it will create bubbles. Eric used a pin to pop the bubbles that formed from his pour. I think two of the hardest things from doing that sort is pouring so little at a time as recommended on the package as well as the potential for dripping. Make sure you somehow seal the riverbed so it does not have room to leak. How to do that, depends really on how your riverbed would come together. Test pours elsewhere definitely would be something I know I would do because I would wind up making a huge mess, plus it will give you an idea how it will work when you go for it for real.
Dave, Thank you for the tip on Eric's video. I haven't watched any of his videos for a long time, but those I saw were always very good. I'll look it up. I've read articles on the subject, but don't think I have watched any videos. I am aware, the stuff will find the tiniest hole to go just like water, even though it is much thicker. I'm thinking somehow, you have to do many small pours for a stream with riffles, or no matter where you pour, it will eventually mostly wind up at the lowest point on the streambed; in other words at the temporary dam at the front edge of the layout. 
I won't be getting to that until next winter at the earliest.
I didn't mention what is on my rolling workbench yesterday. I have painted the reinforced walls for the Thomas West Virginia Station kit from Carolina Craftsman Kits. Here is a cropped closer view. After gluing reinforcing stripwood on the backs of the walls and beveling the corner edges, I painted them with acrylic craft paint. I used a more brown color for the first light coat, which I didn't like. I put a thin coat of burgundy on top of that and like the brick color. The mortar joints are so thin, I couldn't get thinned paint to seep in, and it all came off when I wiped the bricks. I have never had success using joint compound for mortar, and thought it would be hard to get it in the paper thin mortar joints anyway. I then used chalk and rubbed it on with my thumb. You can see the section at the top of the photograph needed more chalk wiped off, but I had to get a new rag and left it for the next day. They are now ready for Dullcoat. I thought I had a can, but don't so, I have to buy some of that. In the meantime, I got ahead of myself and started assembling double hung windows. Duh, It would be easier to spray paint them before cutting them out. So, I stopped that too. There are two more panels of doors and windows, since you have to put pieces together for the double hung windows and panel doors. We are supposed to get snow, sleet, and ice tonight and tomorrow morning, so the building is on hold until I can get out. A slight fender bender would total my 18-year old Hyundai! So, I plan to wait it out.
Looks like a nice building. Should be fun to detail inside and out.
Carolina Craftsman makes quality structures.
Mark, I don't know if you follow Sarah or have seen some of her posts from across the pond. She did some water pouring as well with rippling effects, those were pretty good too. I don't remember how long ago her post was. Maybe when I get home tonight I'll see if I can find them and pass it over to you.
@Bill Webb posted:Looks like a nice building. Should be fun to detail inside and out.
Carolina Craftsman makes quality structures.
Hey Bill! Nice to see another familiar face over here. Hopefully you remember me from the other forum? How are you doing on your layout build?
Sorry Mark didn't mean to interrupt your thread.
Thank you, Bill, Dave, RJ!
Bill, This is the second Carolina Craftsman Kit I have. The other is the Thomas, West Virginia Enginehouse. They are great kits. The main issue for me is that, I have not worked with laser cut siding as thin as Jeff uses. This is no criticism, thin is prototypical. The enginehouse is clapboard, so it isn't as easy to break as the brick laser cuts. To get the proper mortar joints, they are cut very thin, making it an easy break point. If I do another of his brick kits, I will put in lots of bracing on the back side BEFORE I sand the corners to 45 degree angles, instead of after as the instructions state. I broke a few of the thin sections of brick between doors and the wall corners. Fortunately, a smidgeon of Ailene's Tacky Glue and a flat surface makes them not noticeable now.
Dave, no I am not familiar with Sarah at all. I would be glad to receive a link when you get the chance. Thank you!
RJ, Never feel like you are interrupting a topic I am commenting on, especially one like this where I am the OP. Some of the best learning has come from interruptions and side rabbit trails, whether here on the Forum or life in general. I'm glad you have joined in!!!
Mark,
As always well thought out trial and error regarding the tunnel placement, and what the look will be leading up to it. As with most projects there can be a ripple effect (pun intended) to the surrounding area as far as looks, access, etc. I think you’ve come up with a solid plan.
As far as the mortar joints, I’ve always used joint compound with pretty good results. I think one thing that might help would be to let the joint compound dry and form a haze, sometimes overnight. And depending on how it comes off of the surface, I will use my thumb to clear off the bricks. If I find that the mortar is staying in the joints for the most part, I clean off the bricks with a lint free rag and a very light touch. On occasion I do need to reapply joint compound to a very small area here and there. I think your use of chalk was inspiring, another tool in the arsenal!
As always I’m enjoying your progress, well done, and I look forward to more.
Andy
RJ, good to see you here. Layout is going fine except for a minor knee replacement 2 weeks ago which is recovering amazingly well. It has given me time to catch up on documenting things on the computer in case gremlins sneak in.
We keep up with Mark’s thread. He is always doing something interesting and as Andy said, documents the trial and error process. We have a Carolina Craftsman kit to do and will remember the thin joint problem.
Thank you, Andy and Bill!
Andy, good pun on the ripple effect!! I will have to say the only time I used joint compound for mortar joints was on plastic kits with molded windows and door frames. I found it tedious to get the compound out of the corners where the frames met the bricks. That was my only beef about it. You do get nice results. I may not be as patient as I used to be, but then again my hands didn't hurt when I did things like that years ago.
I guess I do show a lot of trial and error. Sometimes, I get suggestions of a different way of doing things, and sometimes I just decide what I did wasn't going to work out as well. I find it is much more useful to see the the process, changes and all, when reading about others' modeling, than just seeing the final product.
Mark, by showing the trial and error, you’re helping yourself through the process, and anyone else that reads your thread, myself included. 👍🏻
Andy
Hi Mark, I am sorry I haven't commented lately, and I have been taking care of some stuff around here! I told you about it,
Sure, looks like you have been busy and are doing some great work! I like that part of layout building, even though sometimes it can get overwhelming!
Keep up the outstanding work!
Thank you, Mike!!! I know you were tied up with unexpected, but necessary projects. 
I'm glad to see you back!!
I finally got some dull coat to seal the walls. I also have some off white to spray the window and door parts. Now I need a day with no cold or wind to do the spraying. The temperatures are projected to be warmer this week, but I won't be doing it yet. Tomorrow, I have to get some tests done on my back that will hopefully reveal what is pinching my right sciatic nerve. It's always something!!
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