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I haven't had much time for the layout, but did want to report I painted and installed the chimney that John sent me.  While the bricks are different than the station, I think I got a pretty good match.  I apologize for the cockeyed first photograph.

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I counted the number and spacing of the snowbirds (snow guards) from prototype photographs and even watched a couple videos from a manufacturer to see where they should be located with respect to shingle edges and gaps.  I also painted them, so next up is to mark the spots and drill small holes to help hold them in place.

Many thanks to Andy @Steamfan77 for sending me some straight track for the double track bridge project.  I had to postpone picking up the bridge from the forum member in Ohio who has it.  Thank you for looking.

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@Mark Boyce posted:

I haven't had much time for the layout, but did want to report I painted and installed the chimney that John sent me.  While the bricks are different than the station, I think I got a pretty good match.  I apologize for the cockeyed first photograph.



2022-05-14 23.10.43

I counted the number and spacing of the snowbirds (snow guards) from prototype photographs and even watched a couple videos from a manufacturer to see where they should be located with respect to shingle edges and gaps.  I also painted them, so next up is to mark the spots and drill small holes to help hold them in place.

Many thanks to Andy @Steamfan77 for sending me some straight track for the double track bridge project.  I had to postpone picking up the bridge from the forum member in Ohio who has it.  Thank you for looking.

Looks good Mark.

I will note however that you may have an issue with the local building inspector. The top of the chimney is supposed to be 3' above any obstructions to prevent downdrafts.

I would suggest having a nice envelope prepared when he shows up.......

Thank you, Bill, Bob, Richie, Greg.

Bill, supply chain issues (ie Mark hasn’t started shopping 😄) have caused a delay.  Looks like perhaps a ‘pre-order’ issue.  😄

Bob, I thought the same as you.  Richie knows you well!  😄  I positioned the chimney to roughly match the architect drawings and prototype in service photographs.

Richie, I love grandpa on these issues. 😄

Greg, 👍🏻

Mark, you’ve done a fantastic job on this really nicely styled station. Your chimney looks like a great match and the siding is appropriate for the scene. Wow, Your layout is on the move. I know I don’t chime in often, however with OGR’s system, I have all the updates as folks make comments and this keeps me up to date on the wonderful progress your making. Happy Railroading Everyone

@Mark Boyce posted:

I haven't had much time for the layout, but did want to report I painted and installed the chimney that John sent me.  While the bricks are different than the station, I think I got a pretty good match.  I apologize for the cockeyed first photograph.

2022-05-14 23.10.55

2022-05-14 23.10.43

I counted the number and spacing of the snowbirds (snow guards) from prototype photographs and even watched a couple videos from a manufacturer to see where they should be located with respect to shingle edges and gaps.  I also painted them, so next up is to mark the spots and drill small holes to help hold them in place.

Many thanks to Andy @Steamfan77 for sending me some straight track for the double track bridge project.  I had to postpone picking up the bridge from the forum member in Ohio who has it.  Thank you for looking.

Mark, that is great. Is there an interior to the building? I can't tell on my phone if there's curtains or maybe a glare, but it turned out real nice.

As for bricks, that is between the chimney and the rest of the building, it could be that it was a different batch that was fired. I think my grandfather had given a slight education on bricks when we had done some work on mom's house a great number of years ago. Maybe even they had to import than from England. Your station, your backstory.

Thank you RJ and Dave!

RJ, it has been a lot of work, but fun for the most part.

Dave, no interior yet.  Bill Webb gave me several resources, but I haven't ordered anything.  Both roofs are easily removable, and there is room for me to maneuver items in there.  I even have the floorplan, but certainly won't put in walls that can't be seen from the exterior.  You have a great point about different bricks being used on different sections of buildings over the years.  I'm using the backstory of the prototype that was located in Thomas, West Virginia.  This prototype had to have had different bricks in different locations, because it was heavily damaged in a tornado in 1942.  The one story section was removed and rebuilt in a different configuration.  The two story part was intact.  They had to use different bricks, although I can't tell from reprinted black and white photographs.

Thank you, Mike, Peter, John!

Mike, I settled on this view.

D5B453A5-F57E-44F8-9B2F-5512C84F1BA3

John, the chimney you made really helps the appearance.  Thank you.

Last evening, I started installing the snow guards(snowbirds).  I started them on the end that will be least visible.  First I measured, then drilled a small hole with a pin vice.  I put a tiny dab of CA on the tiny mounting pin and positioned it in the hole.  They are really tricky with any of the tweezers I have.  I did 3 and had enough for a while.  At that rate it will take all summer to do them all!  😄  

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@Mark Boyce posted:

Thank you, Mike, Peter, John!

Mike, I settled on this view.

D5B453A5-F57E-44F8-9B2F-5512C84F1BA3

John, the chimney you made really helps the appearance.  Thank you.

Last evening, I started installing the snow guards(snowbirds).  I started them on the end that will be least visible.  First I measured, then drilled a small hole with a pin vice.  I put a tiny dab of CA on the tiny mounting pin and positioned it in the hole.  They are really tricky with any of the tweezers I have.  I did 3 and had enough for a while.  At that rate it will take all summer to do them all!  😄  

Looks good Mark.
Don't you just love it when a great idea suddenly meets the reality of installation.  

Bob

Thank you, Jay, Bob, and Jeff.

Maybe I should install a smoke unit in the chimney!  Oh, I almost forgot; the Fire Chief says no smoke indoors!

Bob, you are so right!  David Eisinger told me there wasn't much of a tab to hold them in place.  He was right.  It reminds me of the fiasco of trying to build the Walthers substation.  In that case, I pulled the 'good enough' lever and bought the Woodland Scenics substation. 

Jeff, I understand what you mean about snowbirds.  None had roosted in that photograph that I reused from a couple weeks ago.  In Western Pennsylvania 'snowbirds' are those folks who winter in Florida.  I didn't know what to call them, and David Eisinger called them snowbirds which is what Tichy calls them.  I learned later that the term 'snow guard' was used on the drawing of the prototype, and a manufacturer of the 1:1 scale ones are called snow guards as well.  I may go 'cuckoo' trying to install them. 

@Mark Boyce posted:

I haven't had much time for the layout, but did want to report I painted and installed the chimney that John sent me.  While the bricks are different than the station, I think I got a pretty good match.  I apologize for the cockeyed first photograph.

2022-05-14 23.10.55

2022-05-14 23.10.43

I counted the number and spacing of the snowbirds (snow guards) from prototype photographs and even watched a couple videos from a manufacturer to see where they should be located with respect to shingle edges and gaps.  I also painted them, so next up is to mark the spots and drill small holes to help hold them in place.

Many thanks to Andy @Steamfan77 for sending me some straight track for the double track bridge project.  I had to postpone picking up the bridge from the forum member in Ohio who has it.  Thank you for looking.

WOW Mark!!!  This station looks terrific!!  You give such superb attention to detail!  How wonderful!!!

Thank you Andy, Pat, Dennis!

Hoagie is definitely right for Western Pennsylvania, but I really don’t know about Eastern.  There are so many differences between Pittsburgh and Philly, east and west.  It’s like a different state.  I’ve only ever been east of the Susquehanna River twice.

Pat, thank you.  I had a good kit to start with.  The Carolina Craftsman Kits are nicely done.

About details, I’m really struggling with the snowbirds getting them straight.  I started dabbing in glue from the underside of the hole, which is a lot neater, but my hand isn’t steady enough to get them all lined straight.  It’s like making fine adjustments on relays back at the power company ages ago.  The saying was, “If you think you moved it, you moved it too far”. 😄

To add to the sub discussion, we went to Philly once and we wanted to get an official Philly cheesesteak because we had never had one before.  The lady asked us if we wanted it with wiz?  At first we were confused, but soon realized she was referring to cheese wiz.  That's how they make them there apparently 😉.  For me,  "snowbirds" means the retired/elderly people that travel to Florida for part of the year, but I also know what you're putting on your station 😁 .

Maybe you could try lightly taping a straight edge or ruler to the roof to help you get them lined up in the proper orientation easier.  Are you going to stagger them or will they all be in a straight line?

I also love seeing your level of detail!  Keep up the great work!

Michael

On the Philly side of the state a cheesesteak “with “ means onions. The cheese portion is under stood. Hoagies are cold sandwiches with your choice of meat along with cheese (optional) lettuce, tomato, onion, and pickles. It has to be on the proper roll. Also, we don’t go to the beach we go to the shore. When we’re at the shore then we go to the beach.

Thank you Michael, Jay.

I am able to get the snowbirds in straight rows.   Watching a Berger Building Products tutorial whether the shingles are slate or composite, the slots on the mounting brackets should be hooked around nails leaving the snowbird near the edge of the shingle above it.  That gives me a natural straight line.  My problem is keeping the tiny things from rotating slightly as I place them.  I'll try to get a photograph later since I am up late and the phone I use is in the bedroom.

Jay, I agree with your description of hoagies and Philly cheesesteak.

Bill, I did use some superglue I got at the hardware store.  I am drilling holes for a tight fit, but the tabs are only like a millimeter long.  Once I get them rotated to the right position, I'm good to go gluing from the underside and tipping the roof over to let some superglue drain down in the hole.  Doing that, I don't get glue on the shingle.  A couple of the first ones I did that the chimney will mostly hide have glue stain on a shingle.  Every tool I use still shakes a bit even when I brace my hand.  I sure like keyed slots better for attaching parts.    A few at a time, and I'll be done sometime. 

As an aside, but defiantly related to layout building, I was cleared by the back surgeon last week for any activity I can handle using proper lifting techniques and keeping up my exercises for core strength.  On a sad note, the sciatic nerve that was damaged by the initial bulging discs is still giving me issues from the keister to my toes.  Last evening, it hurt to sit and it hurt to stand, so I gave up with a few holes left unfilled.  I guess I should take the building upstairs to the comfy couch to work on.    That may be the answer.  I'll get back to it.  I am now scheduled for a first visit to a pain clinic next Tuesday, so maybe they have something to help me a bit. 

You could try getting them properly lining up by first squaring up some low grip tape to the roof surface, like blue painter's tape, for each one.

After you glue the snowbird in place, let it dry a little and tap with an awl or toothpick until you get it square to the tape - when dry remove the tape - repeat for each one.

And let's not forget "grinders".

Last edited by Richie C.

Thank you Richie and Bill!

Richie, I tried a toothpick on the ones I had already glued in place.  I had to give them a pretty good nudge, but they straightened up close enough to the eye.  That may have been because the roof is card stock and it gave a bit.  Anyway, I proved they aren't going anywhere else.  I'll try it on them as they dry a little as you suggested.  I would have not thought of that idea.

Thank you, Bill.  All prayers are appreciated.  I only reported on it since it does affect how I approach modeling, not to mention everything else.  For me, it's just disappointing.  I'm more concerned about my wife's cardio and rare osteoarthritis condition.  She sees a different cardiologist next month and finally has a diagnosis on the osteo issue and started medication a few days ago. 

I’m sure the snow birds will come our great. Can’t wait to see.

Best of luck with the pain clinic. Maybe they can make your quality of life that much better. In addition to the core strengthening, maybe you could ask about what stretches would be beneficial. I’ve found that daily stretching helps. I’ll keep a good thought for you and your wife.

Andy

Thank you, Jeff and Jay!  They are quite acceptable.  On to another side.

On another note, I did make the decision to buy the Atlas double truss bridge from a Forum member.  We are meeting this Sunday afternoon about an hour and a half from my house.  I will leave plenty early to make as many stops as needed to stretch my legs.  So, next up is replacing bridges.  Once the lift up is working well, I'll build up roadbed around the loop where I have the plastic trestle bents now.  Then I'll build a lift out section for the town to be raised to upper track level and have some car storage underneath as Jeff suggested.  I'll be allowing for access to the lower tracks either as a tunnel, stone wall canyon, or probably a little of both.  I want to get all that done before I get back to scenery building in case I find I need to reroute more existing track.

just to touch on the "snowbirds" term again. Last night, I was listening to the old time radio channel on SXM, and there was a Fort Laramie episode that might have even been titled snowbird. In that episode, "snowbirds" were men who joined the army in the fall, enjoyed the relative warmth of the fort barracks all winter, then deserted in the spring.

And Western PA hoagies can be hot or cold. None of this "toasted" either, but you got your 'Italian' hoagies from a pizzeria, and it was baked in the oven until the mozzarella was completely melted and the meats a bit crispy on the edges. (cold) Subs were available, but you went to the Triangle Grill (not far from the old Union Switch and Signal plant) with friends and family to get a Battleship. Ugh.. Homesick and hungry now so early in the morning.   

Thank you, Bob and Greg!

Bob, here are a couple photographs of the bridge, just for you.

2022-05-22 19.22.212022-05-22 19.22.33

He told me up front, it wasn't painted, so I'll have to do that.  I'm going to beef up the end where I will put the hinges since it is of course heavier than the single track bridge.  The single track one was already painted silver when I bought it.  I will have to decide what color to paint it and will make it not as shiny.

Last evening I got snowbirds but on one side of the gable roof, so I'm on a roll; sort of.

Greg, that story about the Fort Laramie snowbirds makes sense.  I can see why fellows would enlist for the warm winter bunk, and who was going to catch them if they deserted in spring.  I agree hoagies can be hot or cold, not toasted.  We stopped at a place that may have been a chain in the north suburbs of Pittsburgh a few years ago, and they were toasted so hard you could hardly bite through them.  That just isn't right!!!!  I'll bet the Battleship was something!  I carried my lunch to high school.  The cafeteria served cold hoagies every so often, but they called theirs " Mars Jet Buns" since I went to Mars High School.  Bad joke.  Fifty plus years ago, it was just a small rural school, now the suburbs are encroaching.  I'm glad I live farther north now.  It isn't the same place by far.

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@Mark Boyce posted:

Thank you, Bob and Greg!

Bob, here are a couple photographs of the bridge, just for you.

2022-05-22 19.22.212022-05-22 19.22.33

He told me up front, it wasn't painted, so I'll have to do that.  I'm going to beef up the end where I will put the hinges since it is of course heavier than the single track bridge.  The single track one was already painted silver when I bought it.  I will have to decide what color to paint it and will make it not as shiny.

Last evening I got snowbirds but on one side of the gable roof, so I'm on a roll; sort of.

Greg, that story about the Fort

Looks great Mark. I'm sure Mike can offer assistance if necessary.

Here on Lawn-Guy-land it's a hero whether it's hot or cold.

As long as it's in front of me, I don't care what it's called. 🤣🤣🤣

Bob

I haven't been able to do anything on the layout since getting the bridge, but I did do some more measuring.  I thought I had read in online literature from Atlas that the tracks on the double track bridge are 4" apart, center rail to center rail.  The tracks looked a good bit farther apart than that as I looked at the bridge.  Actually, they are exactly 4-1/2" apart center rail to center rail.  So, I will have to move the track that is closest to the station 1/2" farther from the other track.  That really won't be that much of a problem, after examining my roadbed and track.  Nothing is glued down, I just used screws.  I can start the curve that starts in front of the window a little sooner.  The track on other side of the bridge will be reworked anyway, so it is a non issue there.

Mark,  be careful with that bridge.  I have installed quite a few of them.  Fairly delicate or rather should I say fragile.  Great detail but not very durable.  Somewhat like the original Inter Mountain 0 scale freight cars.  Best used in a once and done permanent installation away from any traffic in my opinion.

Using the bridge bare bones as a lift up I would suggest following Susan Deats  Atlas bridge installation.  Susan has a very detailed website on a variety of 0 scale issues.  Susan is a very  helpful person in the intricacies of model RRing.

After having some visitors reverse engineer a kit out of an installed Atlas bridge I started to make a plywood trays out of Laune, lath strips and Multi ply.    Very durable and easy to R & R.

Flat black makes the wood base blend in.

Three bridges 003Three bridges 006Three bridges 007Three bridges 008Short fitter pieces of track and roadbed

were glued on each end of the lift out tray so as to protect the bridge rails when removing or replacing.

Three bridges 010

Another way to support an Atlas bridge is to make a box sub base:

IMG_8657

The bridges power supply is kind of wireless.  The square bass dowels from Freeman manufacturing have soldered  drops for rail supplied power.   The East dowel supplies one rail the West dowel powers the other rail.   The cabinet magnets help snug the bridge down.  The roller micro switches kill the power on each side of the bridge when the bridge is removed.  

I did receive a fair amount of armchair criticism for relying on a slip fit male/female electrical connection but after 8 years it still is very dependable.  Armchair criticism Frequently shoots blanks.

The only problem is with battery R/C.  For some reason the micro switches seem to be ineffective.

IMG_8658

IMG_8661

With either tray style the plywood stops at the outside most edge of the  Atlas rail girder,  not the over all width of the main deck frame.  With the flat black applied I have yet to have anyone comment on the plywood sub base.

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Last edited by Tom Tee

Tom, when I saw you had posted, I expected some in depth information and wasn't disappointed!  Thank you very much!  Your information and photographs are extremely helpful.  I had looked at Susan's web site several times before, but had never seen her information about the Atlas bridge.  She documented the information in extreme detail.  I already see lots of great ideas at just a cursory glance.  Thank you for pointing me in that direction too. 

https://slsprr.net/features/bridges1.htm 

https://slsprr.net/features/bridges1drwgs.htm

I will look over all of this in greater detail in the days to come.  There will be plenty of time to review information, ask questions, and gather materials, since I know I won't be starting this project until fall or winter.

Mark,  Susan's approach is much more professional than mine.  I really like her work,  She and I had conversation about this project awhile ago.  Very impressive person!  I just do not like the lack of strength of the Atlas bridges.  Way too delicate for me.  The only thing I like better with my approach is that the Atlas rails imbedded in the bridge assembly are shielded from being popped out of their spikes.  The fitter pieces I use at each end of all my lift outs I consider to be sacrificial in an abuse handling or contact situation.

The main line ends and the fitter pieces are adhered using Aileen's adhesive.  That adhesive can be sheared off with a putty knife.  It is very strong but not  forever permanent.

I have had occasion to remove flex track and roadbed a few times without difficulty.  It comes up clean.

IMG_7672Alinees tacky glue available at Michael's crafts.

IMG_7674The tie voids are filled

1 1/4" Masonite strip aligns track.  Unpainted wood is part of bridge tray

IMG_7681The dead weight provided flat rail head alignment while the glue dried.

Note four wire molding races around outside door.

Each wire run has quite a few track level voltage supply lines for the scores of blocks and power districts.   This was all done before I discovered battery R/C.  

There is also one race which contains 110 voltage for the fascia service duplexes around the basement.  No wires at floor level.

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Last edited by Tom Tee

Tom, Susan's work certainly is, though yours is more practical.  The single track Atlas truss hasn't given me any trouble lifting and lowering, but the width of the double track one makes it more cumbersome, heavier, and I think more apt to break.  Your fitter pieces area good idea.  What you show looks like lift out, not lift up on hinges like Susan's and mine.  I think I'm going to have to come up with a way to make the hinges more solid like she did, but use a wooden base like you did.  I saved your posts and hers, just in the off chance there is a server issue and I lose something.  Thank you again.

Hinges are best for anything that requires frequency.  I formed three strap hinges to use on GRJ's yard lift up which I made.  John fabricated real neat electrical contacts for it.  Might be a good thread for John to repost the electrical contact photos.

My situation was for code egress and code service panel access.  That door is never used.  I check it once a year for a fire drill only.

Last edited by Tom Tee
@Tom Tee posted:

Hinges are best for anything that requires frequency.  I formed three strap hinges to use on GRJ's yard lift up which I made.  John fabricated real neat electrical contacts for it.  Might be a good thread for John to repost the electrical contact photos.

My situation was for code egress and code service panel access.  That door is never used.  I check it once a year for a fire drill only.

@gunrunnerjohn could you post some photographs of the electrical contacts.  Thank you!

@Steamfan77 posted:

Wow Mark, planning is just as important as execution. Gathering information from great resources and great folks here on the forum. Things are really shaping up.

Andy

That is so right, Andy!!  Where else could someone without the insight into innovative or advanced techniques be able to have folks who have those insights offer such great information.  Tom and John are just two of many folks here who are happy to take the time to offer knowhow from their areas of expertise.  So many here share from their background developed over years of experience gained at their vocation and hobby interests.  I am so happy all of these forum members have helped me in various areas of the hobby, and I try to offer what I have learned from others and from trial and error.

Sometimes a contribution to the hobby can be made by just asking a question or presenting an idea of the end result we are aiming for.  If we don't ask, an answer that many readers can use may not be given.  In the case of John's answer, I read what he had done at the time, but had forgotten all about it.

Thank you, Andy!

I finally got all the snowbirds on the station.  I opted for one row on each roof surface as the prototype photographs show as opposed to two or three staggered rows.  Here are a couple photographs, one a closeup.  I'm happy with them.

2022-05-29 15.22.21

2022-05-29 15.22.09

I'm going to leave the station project for now until I get the parts I want for the interior.  Next up is some cleanup of the shelves underneath the layout and making a space to store the double track bridge until I get the plan ready for the changeover.  The way it is now, I could bump into it.  I changed out a bad DCS remote thumbwheel carriage in my original remote.  Before that, I backed it up and loaded the information on the spare remote I bought last year.  Now both are up to snuff.

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Thank you, Richard, David, Dave C, Bill, John, Michael!!!

David, you told me the snowbirds would be tricky because the tabs are so short.  I don't know why they made them so short, but I got the knack of it as I progressed.  There are 57 of them on my model.

Dave, you are so right.  Once a layout reaches a certain point, You can pick and choose what you want to work on any particular day or do a few odd jobs too.  I forgot to mention, I pulled an engine off the shelf and ran it for a while as well.

John, as David and I mentioned, those snowbirds are stinkers.  I have some left over, but it will be a while (if ever) before I put them on another building. 

I want to add that pulling the DCS remote housing apart to change out the thumbwheel was a trick!  I followed Barry's suggestions in his book.  He said you need patience, and that is for sure.  It was quite painful too.    I was thinking, why do they even need the one screw in the battery compartment, the plastic tabs really hold.  I know, I should go WIFI and use the phone or a tablet. 

Many thanks to everyone!!

Last edited by Mark Boyce
@Mark Boyce posted:
I want to add that pulling the DCS remote housing apart to change out the thumbwheel was a trick!  I followed Barry's suggestions in his book.  He said you need patience, and that is for sure.  It was quite painful too.    I was thinking, why do they even need the one screw in the battery compartment, the plastic tabs really hold.  I know, I should go WIFI and use the phone or a tablet. 

The second time you take it apart, it comes apart easier.

Thank you, Andy!

Funny you mention the WIFI feature, Andy.  I tried it when it first came out and didn't like it.  In hindsight, I probably gave up too soon.  I found myself looking at the phone as much as the train, which wasn't fun.  I found the buttons on the remote to have a better feel.  Also, I had a problem getting it to work on the home WIFI network.  I even asked Mike himself at York (2017) and thought I could get it to work, but never did.  When I ran it as it's own network, my wife's iPad would disconnect from the home and try to connect to the DCS WIFI.  Not a good thing at all!    So when I saw a Forum member looking for a WIFI unit, I sold it to him.  Now my thumbs give me so much trouble, I have to use both thumbs to roll the thumbwheel to adjust the speed.    It is also painful to push the thumbwheel.

Fast forward to this week.  I took the remote apart and changed out the thumbwheel on Memorial Day.  It was a lot of stress on the thumbs and tendons (ligament?) to get it open.  The next day, I tried to use my right thumb, and had stabbing pain in the middle joint of the right thumb.  Later, I had pain from the joint next to the wrist on up the left arm.  It continues today to a lesser degree.  Steroid shots in the thumbs quit working several years ago, so this situation isn't good.    The short of it is, I may be looking for a used WIFI unit, since I have 2 regular TIUs, one as a spare. 

Mark,

Sorry to hear that your hands are giving you trouble. Maybe some PT and strengthening/stretching will help. I've used my wifi unit for a few years, but then had trouble with it. It wouldn't connect to my wifi anymore. Turns out that the radio board in the wifi unit went bad. I swapped it out in about 1 minute and it's worked fine ever since. Using my phone or an old iPad works well. Like anything else, you will get used to using it. And best of all, no stress on the thumbs.

Andy

Hi Mark, Well I had to go back to page 71 to get up to speed, things are really looking good at your place! The snowbirds turned out wonderful! Don't worry about the chimney as I don't think there will be any fires in the station! LOL

I have the same bridge on my layout. That is the one I use the actuator one and Tom is correct it needs extra support so a box under it would be a great idea. I did an open girder type box. If you would like I can get a photo of it for you.

I hope your fingers get better and things go well!

Last edited by mike g.
@Mark Boyce posted:

Thank you, Andy and Mike!

Andy, PT, PT, they know me well there!    Yes, I'll probably be getting an appointment to see about that.  Yes, I am rethinking the wifi for sure.

Mike, I would appreciate a photograph of what you did on your bridge.  The more information, the better.  It's funny, the more I do, the more I think of to do. 

Hi Mark,

Hope you get some relief for your pain. My fingers were hurting just reading about your experience. As for your layout, the more you do the better it gets and then those great ideas spawn other avenues for you to explore. Keep up the great work! Hoping your pain eases up and you get some relief.

Thank you, John!! 

Everyone, I didn't intend to go on about another ache and pain.  I know most of you who are reading this have plenty of those of your own.  However, I guess it is a good thing in that it is a reminder to all of us that tomorrow we may have difficulty doing what we are able to do today.  Whoever thinks he or she falls into the category of 'getting older'   should keep in in mind when planning and building a layout.  In this particular case, I was short sighted in selling my WiFi unit, though it helped another Forum member when he was looking for one.  Live and learn.  Never stop learning.  Thank you everyone for all you have helped me learn!!! 

Hi Mark, here are a couple photos of my open girder for under my bridge. It maybe hard to see as I made it out of 1/2" Plexi glass. You will notice in the last photo I attached each end of the bridge to the girder with an L bracket.IMG_20220604_071127IMG_20220604_071147IMG_20220604_071154IMG_20220604_071206

If I would have had the bridge when I built it I would have placed the cross members near the bridge cross members so I could have put an L bracket on each. I ended up using zip ties which seams to work just fine.

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Lets see:

The station roof is finished and the snow birds are nesting

You should be getting another wi-fi to relieve your aching thumbs but it isn’t in the budget yet

You want to revise the bridge like Mike did his but you don’t have the plexiglass

How about starting to move buildings to a new level? Didn’t Jeff talk about that. I can’t remember if you already did it or not.

Thank you for responding Jeff, Bill, and Bob!!

Jeff, I haven't bought any of the interior parts for the station yet, but you are on the right track.  Here it is setting out of the way to give you a hint.

2022-07-04 11.09.40

Bill, you are right I haven't even looked of a WIU or plexiglass.  I have been selling some extra engines, cars and a building.  The raised town as Jeff suggested will wait until I realign the track on that side of the bridge with solid roadbed instead of the plastic trestles.  So you are close too.

2022-07-04 11.12.29

Bob, you are correct.  I need to do some ROW work in front of the station before setting the new bridge.  Then I will do the ROW on the other side of the bridge.  The two tracks were 4-1/4" apart rail to rail.  The bridge needs them to be 4-1/2" apart.  I pulled up the track in front of the station and the curve leading to it.  Here is a section of straight GarGraves that Andy @Steamfan77 contributed to the cause along with the measurements where the edges of the ties, cork roadbed, and solid roadbed will go.

2022-07-04 11.09.29

2022-07-04 11.10.46

I left the mainline switch in place for now to allow trains to run in the interim.  I'll pull it out and place it at the other end of the bridge when it is time for track there.

2022-07-04 11.10.55

I'm going go work on the layout some more now.  There is nothing going on for Independence Day here, and it is hot outside.  Too bad there isn't a Pirates game to listen to today.  The Yankees come to town tomorrow.  Our kids will have to face some guys our owner didn't want to pay large contracts; again.  Argh!!!!! 

2022-07-02 21.15.11

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  • 2022-07-04 11.12.29
  • 2022-07-04 11.09.40
  • 2022-07-04 11.09.29
  • 2022-07-04 11.10.46
  • 2022-07-04 11.10.55
  • 2022-07-02 21.15.11

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