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JD,  Thank you for the copy of Ace's plan.  I miss Ace.   Looking at Dave's rendition a few hours later, I see a lot of similarities.  We have considered the idea of staging/holding yards underneath, and I am going to pass on that idea.  I think I would rather pull cars and engines off the shelf or build roll out/slide out shelves or drawers as John suggested a few months ago.  Thank you.

William and Rich, You raise a good point as we all acknowledge no matter how much thinking and planning we do, we will make changes, perhaps major changes, once we get at it.  One thing I can say is that I have never been comfortable with the pop up access holes.  That said, the latest plan before yesterday needs revamped before moving forward.  As an aside over the summer and fall, I didn't have time to start construction anyway.  I do plan to start right after the first of the year.  Thank you very much for your 'prodding'.  

John, At lunch time today I was fiddling with the latest plan Dave posted yesterday, trying again to give the turntable idea a fair shot.  What I see is that a turntable and a holding track for an engine takes up 1/3 of 2 of my 3 walls. I even put the turntables one in the corner, and the other next to the small door, and folded the engine tracks back but that cuts in on the sidings where he thinks I'm going to build trains.  I want to put in some buildings, so I don't want to fill the space with track.  While the balloon loops do extend pretty far from the walls, I think we can adjust everything to have pretty good access.  Even if I had a whole basement to work with and ran point to point, I would always provide some kind of continuous running.  Yes, I could get my continuous running fix in the next room on my Ceiling Central RR.  I spent too many years crawling on the floor and squeezing into electronic equipment cabinets and frames, that my knees bark back at me at the slightest hint of getting on the floor.  I also have trouble straightening back up.  I am afraid it will not get better, and will only get worse. 

Dave sent me an e-mail a while ago with a possible change to the plan he posted yesterday.  He did that to see if he was on a track I liked before developing it further.  I think it is a pretty good plan to get me going.

I do honestly appreciate everyone's comments, and thought them all over again since yesterday.  Thank you so much!!

Dave,

Both of those ideas have merit.  No the grades aren't too steep.  The real Blackwater grade was 3.4% I believe, and I tested all my engines pulling about 6 cars up 6% I believe it was with no trouble.  It's back there on page 3 or 4 or 5 or somewhere.  (William and Rich may be on to something there)   Ah, who cares; I'm having fun!

Back to the plans.  The passing siding with the 'extension' for lack of a better word, looks like something one may see on a tight mountain railroad.  The real Blackwater had a turnout partway down at Lime Rock, but not a passing siding. I printed them both off.  Call me a relic, call me what you will; I can 'see' things better on paper than the computer screen.  

Here is what the yard at Thomas looked like once upon a time.  We were there in August, and it is just a grassy area with the bike trail running through it like it was back in '95 or '96 the last time we were there.

Here is the switch at Lime Rock, partway down the grade.  

I'm looking for that photograph I sent Dave I scanned from a magazine of a large model railroad of two lines hugging a mountain slope, the lower one being at least two tracks.  I must have saved it elsewhere on my cloud drive.  Anyway, that would be the view looking through the big window connecting the laundry with the train room.  That vantage point is at the bottom of the drawings.  Anyway, when I find it, I'll post it, because it is pretty cool.

Last edited by Mark Boyce
DoubleDAZ posted:

Mark, here are a couple of alternate configurations. The 1st has a slight change to the passing siding to let you run longer trains and still be able to pass. The 2nd swaps the passing siding for a small storage yard and increases the elevation to 6". The grades for both might be too high, but I didn't know how small of a grade you were wiling to accept. 

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Dave,

I think this one is the one with another storage track at each end.  The yard with the coal hoppers is at the top of the drawing (yellow), the siding is in the middle (the green passing track), and another track at the lower (blue) end.  Yes, I may lay it out on the floor after Thanksgiving.  Thank you.

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!!

Here's a version using all Ross switches. There are 4 cut pieces (labeled) in this version, but that will change as you build. Right now the tracks along the top/bottom are too close to the wall, so adjustments will need to be made along the left grade and both parts of the passing siding.

I'm still not happy with the siding in the upper right because the Ross O42 switch footprint is so much different than the GarGraves O42 switch, but that's something you can decide. That siding is also in the opposite direction from the others, so it will be harder to service unless you run a train in the opposite direction to service it. There also isn't room for 2 buildings, so I'm not sure I wouldn't have just 1 longer siding vs the 2 shorter sidings. I'd also be inclined to delete the curve in the siding in the lower right to get rid of the small S curve there and give a little more separation for buildings.

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Dave,

I see what you mean on all counts.  Yes, I was aware that as drawn the top and bottom are too close to the walls, but figured that no plan is an etched in stone affair, and some pieces will need cut and trimmed to make it all fit.  As to the switches, I have some Ross and some GarGraves on hand, so I will try to fit sidings accordingly.  What I planned for the siding on the extreme upper right is that it would be an engine track (I may try to fit a small 1 stall engine house there) where the engine would pull in front facing the corner, then when it backs out through the switch and comes around to couple onto the cars in the 2-track yellow yard, all would be in order.  (I'm just calling the locations by color now, since it is easier for everyone to understand.  I have names for all these places in my mind that will be marked on the fascia when the layout is built that far.)

I hadn't thought much about the S-curve on the blue yard tracks, but you are absolutely right.  At low speeds it may not matter, but there may be that one or two ornery car that isn't quite as well suspended on it's trucks that could possibly derail.  The tracks forming a wye configuration will work because the intent there is for a couple unrelated industries, whereas the yard tracks in yellow are intended to be like the coal marshaling photographs in yesterday's post.  That all works out swell.

I may or may not put in both spurs on the green passing track, but I like the idea of one.  Of course the scenery will be such that the proximity to the yellow and blue loops will be at different elevations and camouflaged in such a way that they won't seem to be in the same scene.  I like that ...daz4.scarm plan a lot.

On to another note.  I have been seriously considering mounting the table tops to brackets fastened to the studs in the walls.  Then I would have legs supporting the two loops that stick out into the room.  I realized after I took down the shelving our daughter had installed on the walls, that it wasn't a big deal to patch the holes before repainting.  I can hardly tell myself where the holes were.  I even found steel brackets at Home Depot that reach out 20" from the wall and the claim is they will hold 1000 pounds at less than $10 each.  The reviews are amazing as to what people have stored on the shelves and what expensive items they have put under the shelves without fear of anything breaking.  I am going to buy two brackets this weekend, mount them somewhere and 'load them up' as a test.  I also have to finish tearing apart the 'mighty' workbench at my mother-in-law's and bring pieces over to my house.  I can even unbolt it and I have double supporting legs for the two loops already pre-fab, so to speak!!  Also remember, the workbench has two 12' long sheets of Homasote on it, I am going to cut into more manageable sizes to get over to our house.  I think I can build this thing at a really discounted price, with a lot of the heavy carpentry eliminated or pre-fab.

That all sounds good, Mark. I had forgotten what track you already have and was too lazy to look back through the thread. Like you said, those details aren't so important because adjustments will have to be made as you build. I did want to show you the difference though.

There are other S curves in the passing siding. Those can be minimized by substituting Ross #11 switches, but I didn't like how it looked, so I didn't include a photo.

I don't like legs, so that has always been my problem with the Mianne bench work. I have little doubt you can support the layout with the brackets you described. Good luck with the test.

I added the additional extension to the passing track mostly because I misread your earlier comment. However, after I added it, my thought now is to be able to pull all the way in on one extension, then back all the way into the other extension and be ready to pull out without clogging the main. Without the 2nd extension, you have to back far enough past the switch blocking the main so you can pull out. Just food for thought.

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Train getting ready to pull out w/o using upper extension blocking main:
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Train getting ready to pull out using upper extension w/o blocking main:
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Pennsynut and Nessmuck, thank you for your comments.  

Well yes patience out of necessity may have led to analysis paralysis too.  Ha ha!  I wanted to get started building mid year, but health problems for both my parents, hospital stays, care giving, and finally personal care home consumed a lot of time this year.  That on top of helping my wife's mother and my aunt, then upkeep of Dad's house and grounds and this year has flown by.

So was the delay in starting construction good or bad.  You saw I rethought the plan I "finalized " last spring, to another eliminating the need for access hatches on the right wall.  Which plan is the best for me?  

Nessmuck, This past weekend, I did some measuring of the workbench at my mother-in-law's that i am going to take apart and use for parts of my layout.  I have decided to start with the section at the bottom of the plan that is basically the same on both plans. I plan to start right after Christmas with that.  At that point, I will start a topic in the 3-rail section of the Forum since the planning will be done.  Then it will be changes as I build.

 Thank you for your patience, I know my patience is getting tried as well!  LOL

Mark Boyce posted:

Pennsynut and Nessmuck, thank you for your comments.  

Well yes patience out of necessity may have led to analysis paralysis too.  Ha ha!  I wanted to get started building mid year, but health problems for both my parents, hospital stays, care giving, and finally personal care home consumed a lot of time this year.  That on top of helping my wife's mother and my aunt, then upkeep of Dad's house and grounds and this year has flown by.

So was the delay in starting construction good or bad.  You saw I rethought the plan I "finalized " last spring, to another eliminating the need for access hatches on the right wall.  Which plan is the best for me?  

Nessmuck, This past weekend, I did some measuring of the workbench at my mother-in-law's that i am going to take apart and use for parts of my layout.  I have decided to start with the section at the bottom of the plan that is basically the same on both plans. I plan to start right after Christmas with that.  At that point, I will start a topic in the 3-rail section of the Forum since the planning will be done.  Then it will be changes as I build.

 Thank you for your patience, I know my patience is getting tried as well!  LOL

Almost there Mark. Can't wait to see the start of construction.

Bob

Hi Mark,

No one will ever fault you for doing God's work in caring for aging parents and relatives! Many of us have been there and the difference in importance between family and just a hobby becomes very clear.

You will likely find that no matter how much you think, design and redesign that your eventual layout will have some compromises that will irk you. My only suggestion is to list your priorities and go with the design that covers the most important ones. 

We all wrestle with space issues, room conformation, features we want to squeeze in, etc. Compromises result. My priority was a layout than "runs" well. But, there are regrets afterward. However, all things considered, I'm lucky to have a nice layout at this point in my life. Now if I would only finish the scenery....

Good luck with your planning, and I look forward to your construction and completed layout photos.

Fred

 

 

 

Thank you Fred and Nessmuck!!!

I have been waiting a long time for a room to become available.  Finally our last daughter married and moved out.  I actually gained an empty room.  

You are right about issues that will pop up building the layout.  At least this will be the first that is actually drawn out with some level off accuracy for a starting point.

I can't thank Dave enough for helping me on this!!

Mark, I saw your post in another thread about your concern for building locations, specifically the Menard's Power building. I found 2 such buildings on the Menard's site, the largest being 9"x17". So, I decided to use it as a template and added several around the layout so you could see where buildings of a similar or smaller footprint might fit. It's just something to help you visualize spacing not to make any decisions.

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Al, Thank you!  I commented on the plan in the email.  

Dave,  Thank you for looking at where the power station could fit.  For me, I thought I would like to place it at the upper level town because the real power station I once worked at is located a few miles north of Thomas and Davis along the top of Allegheny Mountain.  I'm thinking the location in the middle near the small window would work since I'm hoping to fit a small engine house over the siding in the corner.

I guess this is the first I mentioned that I worked at the power station here.  I wrote extensively about it on Trainman2001's "Continuing Saga..." topic when he was building his power substation a couple years ago.  

One plus on the Menards station is that it has a pull through track bay, which the real Mount Storm Power Station has, so it saves space.  

Thank you, Dave.

Not doing the multilevel plan?  Kind of a  bummer.  This one is a piece of cake.  Buy all the curves, switches and long straights, start at the crossover section in the middle and go from there.  Lay it out on the floor on red rosin paper to get your actual benchwork dimensions and start making sawdust.  No reason trains couldn't be running in ..... days.  Power drops, switch wiring and tweaking to follow, BUT, get running trains!  

Laying out and framing, four days, track down and simple wiring done one day.  Running trains end of fifth day.  Having fun, more to follow.  Cheers.

Dave, Yes, I have trouble envisioning building placement and how much room they will take also.  Then you think it will fit and overhang from the longest car or cab roof hits the corner of a building roof, and the building doesn't fit.  That's why many folks make cardboard mockups then build to suit the location.  Well, I have a bunch of buildings I want to use.  Cart before the horse.  

William, For one, as my arthritis, both rheumatoid ans osteo gives me more trouble, I just don't want to fool with access hatches.  Second, the serpentine down the mountain doesn't resonate with the Blackwater Canyon where the grade doesn't double back.  I was having trouble envisioning a couple of scenic areas I mentioned months ago.  That said, the steps you outlined are good, and the plan is to start building on the end at the bottom of the drawings in January.  Please stay tuned!  

I always appreciate your encouragement!  

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Tom, This room is an addition on the back of the basement level of a brick house.  It has a sun room above it on the first floor.  Three walls are exterior walls, and the fourth wall at the bottom of the diagrams is cement block and brick.  We discussed the idea of going through the open window (which was the exterior of the original house) which leads to the laundry (right over the washer and dryer), but the laundry is very narrow, and there isn't enough room to put even a staging yard.

I do have the Ceiling Central RR looping around the family room that is right outside the door adjacent to the laundry room.  I have 054 curves on it.  Others have suggested running a connection through the door to an overhead line in the room in question.  That could be done, but I'm not thinking of it right now.

I don't want to fool with a subway, a lot of it under the main table top, but a higher short unconnected logging line could be done.  

Thank you for all the ideas.

John,

I am planning to make all buildings removable this go round.  I fastened a lot of buildings down to the scenery on my last layout, and wished I hadn't, even for just when I wanted to remove them to make changes.  It was a mess and some were damaged.  So no matter whether the building is in the front, or even a building flat against the backdrop.

Thank you for all the warning tips you give modelers.  Sometimes they don't apply in some cases, they are all valuable.  And this one is definitely a tip I would advise for everyone too!

It is past time for an update here.  I did get started with construction this month.  First I tore out an old 10 x 4 workbench at my mother-in-law's basement, and brought all the parts over here.  Here is an inventory of the major parts.

2 rolling ends on casters that I left intact, built of 2 x 4s with 1/4" plywood as sides

4 10x1 x 8’ boards to be ripped into 1x4s and 1x3s

4 8x1 x 3’ boards

2 10x4 sheets of ½” Homasote

1 8x3 sheet of Masonite – no holes

2 2x4 x 10’

2 2x4 x 3’

1 8x3 sheet of ¼” plywood

I built a rolling base of the two sides, replacing the casters with new locking 3" casters.  The purpose of making it rolling is that I will make it removable from the long narrower shelf so I can swing it out and get behind it for access.  No need for pop up access now.

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As you can see Unfortunately, it is not as high as I want to be able to look through the window onto the layout height from the laundry room.  The window sill is 45" above the floor.  I debated whether to make the roll around base higher, but decided to put in joists running parallel to the brick wall, and then put in perpendicular stringers.  On the other side where I will have to build the whole thing from scratch, I will make the rolling base higher.

Anyway, here is the whole support with sections of particle board I salvaged from an old book case just laying uncut on top to get an idea of what it will look like.

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The blue tape on the floor is roughly where the edges of the layout will fall.  I know this isn't pretty, but I am a below average carpenter, using free wood, and once it is painted, track and scenery is on top, and a facia and covering to the floor is installed, no one will know the difference.  What matters to me is that it is level, solid, but rolls freely when I unlock the four casters.  

I'll post more what I was going to write later.  I just got a call to go see my aunt in the personal care home.

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Thank you, George!  Thank you, JD!!

I am not intending the diorama to be part of the layout.  I want to be able to carry it easily out the door to the adjacent patio for daylight photography.  Also, I’m trying some scenic effects since I haven’t built scenery for many years.  I have the diorama resting on the first two wall brackets for the layout.  I decided to build the layout higher so someone can look through the window from the laundry onto the layout easier.  I will raise the brackets about 6 inches to match this part of the layout.

The diorama is a neat idea. I might do something similar to refine my scenery skills before I tackle the entire layout. It's amazing how realistic model RR pictures can be with natural light. 

I think raising the layout is a good move too. Doing the laundry won't seem like a chore anymore looking out into the Blackwater Canyon!

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Thank you Mike and JD!!  Yes it is convenient for doing laundry!!   I had a load in the washer and one in the dryer when I was laying out the track and shot the photograph yesterday!    You may not have seen this before, but my mother-in-law lives just down the road withing walking distance for her.  I had better watch it, since I got all that wood from her basement, she may say I forgot to take the wash!!  

Yesterday I cut the pieces to fit and screwed them down to the stringers.  Then I laid the track out again, and marked the tabletop for where the Homasote will go.  It was certainly easy to roll the unit away from the wall 15 inches or so to get in there!  Worked great.

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That may be the shiniest train table top I have seen!  That keeps eyes focused there so as not to see the ugly base.  

On this end, I am going to cut out the board to have the Shavers Fork of the Cheat River flowing underneath this bridge.  It is similar to the real one in Parsons, West Virginia that is now used for a bike/hike trail.  Oh, that is one of my two MTH Premier H9 Consolidations sitting on the track for fun.  I just received this one yesterday from a Forum member.  It is a PS-2 with 3-volt board.  My other one is a PS3 #839.

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Leandro,  Thank you!!

Mike, I have this Menards single track truss bridge for the rear crossing.  It reminds me of the Shavers Fork crossing in Parsons WV that I shot last year.

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The front bridge will be a girder bridge so it is easy to see over it since it is in the front.  This is the other bridge in Parsons.  Mine of course will be shorter.

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Last edited by Mark Boyce

                    here you go Mark... how 'bout taking a hike along your river...

                           looking towards your back bridge over the river...

                     walking along the shallow river coming out from the back hills...

                              water getting deeper it goes under the front bridge...

                                water picking up speed now... flowing pretty good...

                                     then dumping over waterfalls at the front...

                    can't wait to see trains running thru this awesome scenery...

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I was going to start cutting my Homasote for my roadbed, but it is extremely windy today, so I started working on the shelf part of my layout instead.  I had to move the 18" metal wall brackets up 4 inches to get a match for the height of the roll around.  Then I put stringers on the two I did and a fascia board on matched to the roll around.  I could clamp the roll around to the stationary part, but it is fine for now with the brakes set.  I think it is going to work pretty slick.  Here are two photographs.  My carpentry skills aren't very pretty nor is my used wood, but it all seems solid enough.  I still need to put an 8 inch section between the wall and the tabletop, but that material is out in my shed, and I was afraid I may blow away.  I thought the dog may fly like a kite at the end of her cable when I put her out.  LOL

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Somehow I knew you were going to beat me. I've had some medical setbacks, but we've decided not to drive to Alaska this year, so I think I'll be able to start as soon as we get back from Georgia next month. Who knows? Maybe we'll both have trains running by Christmas. Keep up the good work, progressis the name of the game.

Wow Dave, Drive to Alaska!!  I would love to if I had a whole summer to do it.  I looked up, and it's 3600 miles for you to Anchorage.  Then I decided Juneau would be closer, which it is, 3000!  Are you driving or flying to Georgia?

I'm sorry about the medical problems.  I hope you are getting along better!!

Yes, I hope to have trains running by Christmas.  Not that I am saying all the track will be laid, but enough laid, wired, and checked out that I can have some fun with it.

Thank you!!!

Mark, Juneau might be closer, but you can't get there by car, unless it floats or flies. Your progress is lookin' good. Over 75% of my benchwork is lumber from shipping crates and other projects at the farm, so used is good. I have had my 215lbs. on it many times, and it is all 1" lumber except for the legs, and that's only because I had plenty of used 2x4s so I didn't have to rip them. Keep postin'.

John,

Yes, thinking back on my geography now, you have a point about Juneau.  However, Barney Google thinks you can drive there from Arizona, so it MUST BE SO.   I would say the closest I have been to Alaska would be central Illinois!!  

Thank you very much for the compliment and reporting your success with used lumber!!!  Reading posts about people buying birch plywood, and clear pine from some contractor only lumber supplier sometimes makes me wonder how mine will make out.    Your comment makes me feel better! 

The current plan is to drive to Skagway and take the car ferry over to Juneau. In Google Maps you have to set it to avoid the ferry or it will look like you can drive. Google Maps defaults to using a ferry if there is one. Prince Rupert is actually the closest, but the ferry from there to Juneau costs a LOT more.

I did some cleaning up and some experimenting with the backdrops I bought from George (G3750) last year.  The town on this side is at the bottom of the canyon, so I want a lot of mountain showing.  Track height will be 44".

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Then there will be a climb of 5" to 49" on the other end of the room.  That town will be at the top of the mountain, so I will have mostly sky.  49" comes to less than an inch below the window sill.  In such a small room, I don't know how well I'll pull it off depicting a climb from the valley to the mountain top, but we will see how it goes.  Since there won't be any backdrop at the big window except some sky above it, I think I will have the top of the mountain on the backdrop a little lower to try to help this.

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Last edited by Mark Boyce

Jealous of your big room ! 

We have a 9x9 room to expand into ...

we started with this , year 2000 27”x36” Thomas playset , “9D2C2DCC-905E-4442-87D5-ACC3DF0B2DB7Micro layout” and will , eventually , expand outward ...  

Id love to expand into full scale cars and bigger steam , for now , it’ll be  027  sized cars , pulled by027 sized.  1656  , 2026 and 2025 steamers , a 6220 Diesel switcher ...and Thomas , of course 

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Last edited by dPrasse

Peter, Thank you!! 

Mike, Well I "think" I have it figured out.  But I think we all make some alterations as we go along!!  

Brian, Thank you!  I thinks it will look good too!

Bob, Thank you!!  Yes, that Inside Passage is the only "cruise" I have seen advertised that I think I would like.  The train trip to Denali would be a highlight for sure!!  

George, Thank you!!  And thank you for the backdrops again!  I have looked over the sections and think I have a good plan how they will work out.  I'll be able to match up the sky colors with my artist daughter's assistance.  She will help me select the right colors from her massive "collection" even though scenery is not her thing.    

Dprasse, I certainly understand!  This is the most space I have ever had for trains since I bought my first set in the late '60s.  The adult kids have married and left home.  9 x 9 can be a challenge for O gauge.  We have a Lionel Thomas, and some younger child train sets my wife has picked up at thrift stores, just in case we have any grand children.

Today I installed the 6 remaining brackets on the wall that will hold the stationary shelf part of my layout.

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I decided to break down and buy two 1x4s to cut up for the stringers.  That is the first wood I have purchased for this project.  Here they are attached and waiting for something to be mounted on top.

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Here are the table top boards all cut and mounted.  It's a good thing they will be covered with Homasote, track, and scenery!  

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I also measured and trimmed two sections of backdrop I got from George (G3750) last spring, just about this time of year, now that I think of it.  The sections are just sort of propped up there to get an idea of how it will look.  Once I have them mounted on supports, I think they will look great!  Thanks again George!!  

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Last edited by Mark Boyce

Wow I had not checked in for a while--great progress and it is looking great too.  Nice artwork on the backdrops.

Dave--sorry to hear you will not make your Alaska trip this year.  This past summer I drove down to take my daughter to graduate School in Colorado, and the summer before that I drove down to take my son to graduate school in Montanna--I still want to do the drive once leisurely with my wife.

ORIND, I'm pretty bummed too, but I think it's the best option for us at the moment. If things change health-wise, we may go back to the original plan, but I'm not holding out much hope. However, I also don't rule out a military hop out of Travis to Elmendorf at some point. We'll just have to see how things go.

Mark Boyce posted:

Thank you Mike!  Yes I hate to have to buy superfluous stuff like wood and wire for a layout!  LOL. I have two free sheets of plywood on the way from another source as well.  Another O gauger is making a contribution.  LOL

A Stone Soup Layout!

Well, at least stone soup benchwork so far.

Mark Boyce posted:

Thank you Mike!  Yes I hate to have to buy superfluous stuff like wood and wire for a layout!  LOL. I have two free sheets of plywood on the way from another source as well.  Another O gauger is making a contribution.  LOL

I'm with you Mark! Free is good, the 4" X 10" x8' beams were given to me by a good friend! Saved me about $125. But like you I know I am going to have to pay out the money for wire and other stuff down the road! LOL

Well I got some time yesterday to work a little more on the layout.  I cut the Homasote to size for the roll-out turn-back loop.  This town will be relatively flat, so since I have plenty, I just covered the whole thing with Homasote.

2018-03-23 15.58.26

I also cut part of the tabletop out for the Cheat River crossings.  I left the table uncut where the two bridges will go for now.  I'll cut it completely for the truss bridge in the rear.  I may leave the wood intact for the girder bridge in the front.

2018-03-23 15.58.36

Over on the "What did you do on your layout today?" topic, Mike G. asked, "what's next?"  Here is my reply:

I am going to put the track back down temporarily and mark the center-lines, then remove it and lay down O gauge cut and beveled cork for the raised roadbed look.  The two yard tracks in town will be tapered down to rest right on the Homasote.  Then I can start laying track in that area.  By that time, I'll be cleaning up leaves, mowing my yard and my dad's large yard, so work on the layout will be slower, but I'll have enough started I can work on it an hour or so when I get the chance.

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Mark Boyce posted:

Well I got some time yesterday to work a little more on the layout.  I cut the Homasote to size for the roll-out turn-back loop.  This town will be relatively flat, so since I have plenty, I just covered the whole thing with Homasote.

2018-03-23 15.58.26

I also cut part of the tabletop out for the Cheat River crossings.  I left the table uncut where the two bridges will go for now.  I'll cut it completely for the truss bridge in the rear.  I may leave the wood intact for the girder bridge in the front.

2018-03-23 15.58.36

Over on the "What did you do on your layout today?" topic, Mike G. asked, "what's next?"  Here is my reply:

I am going to put the track back down temporarily and mark the center-lines, then remove it and lay down O gauge cut and beveled cork for the raised roadbed look.  The two yard tracks in town will be tapered down to rest right on the Homasote.  Then I can start laying track in that area.  By that time, I'll be cleaning up leaves, mowing my yard and my dad's large yard, so work on the layout will be slower, but I'll have enough started I can work on it an hour or so when I get the chance.

                         getting there Mark...     looking good...

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Over this weekend I did get a bit done.  I pulled out the tacks I used to secure the cork, then sanded the rough edges off the cork and smoothed the top a bit.  I then took a tip from someone several months ago and sprayed the cork with gray stone paint by Rustoleum to give the impression of ballast until I do ballast sometime in the future.  I first tried Testors, and that little can was gone in no time flat.  Some folks ballast before putting in the rest of the scenery, and others leave the ballast go until after the scenery.  After trying both methods in HO, I found that I fit in the latter group.  One photograph.

2018-04-08%2018.51.48

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Thanks for sharing this technique, Mark. I really like the result. I likely won’t install ballast anytime in the foreseeable future as our focus is toy train/postwar display style. I could definitely see myself using this technique as a middle ground between full ballast and plain gray painted roadbed under tubular track. 

Keep up the good work!

Zak, Thank you very much!  I'm glad to have made some progress this past winter! 

I haven't had time to do any more since the last update.  I spent some time checking over 3 engines I sold that didn't quite fit in and shipped them off.  Then I went to York, where I picked up two sets at great prices.  I purchased a virtually new Premier ProtoSound  Western Maryland Fireball F3 A-B-A from a Forum member before York actually. 

Then I got an amazing deal on a NIB Premier WM Fireball FA-2 A-B-A with an add on B unit.

Mark Boyce posted:

Some folks ballast before putting in the rest of the scenery, and others leave the ballast go until after the scenery.  After trying both methods in HO, I found that I fit in the latter group.

 

I also am a big advocate of applying ballast after the basic scenery (trackside, at least) is in place. After all, that's what happens on the prototype.

Mark Boyce posted:

Dave,

Both of those ideas have merit.  No the grades aren't too steep.  The real Blackwater grade was 3.4% I believe, and I tested all my engines pulling about 6 cars up 6% I believe it was with no trouble.  It's back there on page 3 or 4 or 5 or somewhere.  (William and Rich may be on to something there)   Ah, who cares; I'm having fun!

Back to the plans.  The passing siding with the 'extension' for lack of a better word, looks like something one may see on a tight mountain railroad.  The real Blackwater had a turnout partway down at Lime Rock, but not a passing siding. I printed them both off.  Call me a relic, call me what you will; I can 'see' things better on paper than the computer screen.  

Here is what the yard at Thomas looked like once upon a time.  We were there in August, and it is just a grassy area with the bike trail running through it like it was back in '95 or '96 the last time we were there.

thomasvieweastthomasviewwest

Here is the switch at Lime Rock, partway down the grade.  

limerockviewwestmountainswitchvieweast

I'm looking for that photograph I sent Dave I scanned from a magazine of a large model railroad of two lines hugging a mountain slope, the lower one being at least two tracks.  I must have saved it elsewhere on my cloud drive.  Anyway, that would be the view looking through the big window connecting the laundry with the train room.  That vantage point is at the bottom of the drawings.  Anyway, when I find it, I'll post it, because it is pretty cool.

"Call me a relic, call me what you will?" Say you're old fashioned, say you're over the hill.

Hmmm, where did that come from?

Mike

Guitarmike posted:
Mark Boyce posted:

Dave,

Both of those ideas have merit.  No the grades aren't too steep.  The real Blackwater grade was 3.4% I believe, and I tested all my engines pulling about 6 cars up 6% I believe it was with no trouble.  It's back there on page 3 or 4 or 5 or somewhere.  (William and Rich may be on to something there)   Ah, who cares; I'm having fun!

Back to the plans.  The passing siding with the 'extension' for lack of a better word, looks like something one may see on a tight mountain railroad.  The real Blackwater had a turnout partway down at Lime Rock, but not a passing siding. I printed them both off.  Call me a relic, call me what you will; I can 'see' things better on paper than the computer screen.  

Here is what the yard at Thomas looked like once upon a time.  We were there in August, and it is just a grassy area with the bike trail running through it like it was back in '95 or '96 the last time we were there.

thomasvieweastthomasviewwest

Here is the switch at Lime Rock, partway down the grade.  

limerockviewwestmountainswitchvieweast

I'm looking for that photograph I sent Dave I scanned from a magazine of a large model railroad of two lines hugging a mountain slope, the lower one being at least two tracks.  I must have saved it elsewhere on my cloud drive.  Anyway, that would be the view looking through the big window connecting the laundry with the train room.  That vantage point is at the bottom of the drawings.  Anyway, when I find it, I'll post it, because it is pretty cool.

"Call me a relic, call me what you will?" Say you're old fashioned, say you're over the hill.

Hmmm, where did that come from?

Mike

We must both be old fashioned, but NOT over the hill!!

Now that the loop of track is fastened down to the table, I decided to bring my buildings down out of the attic, where I put them for safe keeping while heavy construction was going on.  I arranged some of them on the lower town site along with a few operating accessories I had in a bin in the garage.  I have more, and I will have an upper town.  This is just to start thinking again about what will go in each town and how it may fit.  The two sidings are not fastened down and can be moved to accommodate other building arrangements.  It was a happy time getting a start at visualizing what it may look like.  One thing I do know is that I want the operating accessories near the front so this little 61-year old boy can play with them, and the more realistic buildings and scenes in the background so the adult me can overlook the accessories and think he is up in the West Virginia mountains along the Western Maryland or Baltimore and Ohio back in the 1950s.

2018-04-29 20.02.312018-04-29 20.02.53

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Looking good, Mark. I love the blend of operating accessories and model structures. Keep up the good work! 

It is fun keeping up with the various projects posted on the forum, especially when my little layout is stored at the moment. It’s nice living vicariously through you and others until we have more time to get our table up and going. 

Keep posting, even the small victories, because it’s really enjoyable for me (and I’m sure others) who do not have any trains up and running at the moment.

Thank you, JD!  I too know the feeling of not having a layout, but enjoying watching others here on this Forum build and operate their layouts.  I had no layout when I joined this Forum 6 years ago, and actually hadn't had one for quite some time, but wanted another layout as I had when I wasn't so busy.  It is great encouragement for me that you appreciate just the little things I accomplish.  I appreciate the same of others.

STOP THE PRESSES!  STOP THE PRESSES!

Major development came up over the weekend!!  As we are cleaning out stuff left over from when our two daughters lived with us, my wife asked me if I wanted to build the layout in the family room adjacent to the "train room".  This encompasses the area the Ceiling Central Railroad is in plus a slightly larger space on the other side of the duct work bulkhead.  All along I wondered why we needed three sitting rooms, the living room, sun room directly above the train room and the front half of the family room; but I never once spoke up.  The furniture in the family room consists of a rocking love seat and single chair her parents discarded to us about 15 years ago, a small dresser with a television on it, and a folding table she uses for jigsaw puzzles.  She says it is too cold to sit down there in the winter, which is true.

So, I am waiting for it to be brought up again as we finish cleaning out, but as you may guess, it makes me think I will put a hold on layout construction; not that I have much time for it this time of year anyway.

The room is 12 feet wide at it's widest, the part farthest from the train room.  After 12 feet, it narrows to about 10 1/2 feet for the rest of the way.   It is 24 feet long.  Now, the one caveat is that I have to keep a walkway open all along that 10 1/2 feet wide section because here are four doors along it, two on the end.  So the workable width at the front is 12 feet, then it would be about 7 1/2 feet width until I get to the end, where the exterior door only leaves 5 feet.  This is a quick diagram of the room.  I still have a lot of measurements to do.  I still want the same theme.  I'll need to rewrite an updated list of features wanted, but basically it will still be a loop to loop design with a town at each end and a long steady climb up the mountain.

 Blackwater Line New Room

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Mark Boyce posted:

So, I am waiting for it to be brought up again as we finish cleaning out, 

Mark my man. This is no time to be timid. Oportunity strikes but once. You should suggest that you take this room and the porch as well. It will make a nice staging area. Be firm but polite. Maybe after taking her out to dinner. No sense pushing too hard. 

LOL to all!  Brian, Richie, Pat, Steve, RTR12, I agree with all of you!

Brian, that track plan sure looks familiar!  LOL. That is a good start!  1, 2, 3!

The trouble with extending from the existing train room is that the only section the two rooms have in common is the narrow door between the exterior door and the laundry door.  It just won’t work.

But, I can leave the shelf I just built and make it into a workshop and storage room!  I would like that because my workshop now consists of a folding table in the train room and a bunch of tool boxes laying around!  

My wife was looking at what I already built and realized I won’t even have room to turn around in that room if we have grandchildren some day who will come to run Pap Pap’s trains!  LOL

Mark, if I understood what you said, I picture the new space looking something like this. I see I missed the door in the upper right though.

Anyway, the way I have it, it looks like a 90x252 space with a 54x108 add-on in the upper left. Is this close? I also added a set of tracks with O54 curves (not shown) to the file just to get an idea of what the space will hold.

Capture

 

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Mark Boyce posted:

STOP THE PRESSES!  STOP THE PRESSES!

Major development came up over the weekend!!  As we are cleaning out stuff left over from when our two daughters lived with us, my wife asked me if I wanted to build the layout in the family room adjacent to the "train room".  This encompasses the area the Ceiling Central Railroad is in plus a slightly larger space on the other side of the duct work bulkhead.  All along I wondered why we needed three sitting rooms, the living room, sun room directly above the train room and the front half of the family room; but I never once spoke up.  The furniture in the family room consists of a rocking love seat and single chair her parents discarded to us about 15 years ago, a small dresser with a television on it, and a folding table she uses for jigsaw puzzles.  She says it is too cold to sit down there in the winter, which is true.

So, I am waiting for it to be brought up again as we finish cleaning out, but as you may guess, it makes me think I will put a hold on layout construction; not that I have much time for it this time of year anyway.

The room is 12 feet wide at it's widest, the part farthest from the train room.  After 12 feet, it narrows to about 10 1/2 feet for the rest of the way.   It is 24 feet long.  Now, the one caveat is that I have to keep a walkway open all along that 10 1/2 feet wide section because here are four doors along it, two on the end.  So the workable width at the front is 12 feet, then it would be about 7 1/2 feet width until I get to the end, where the exterior door only leaves 5 feet.  This is a quick diagram of the room.  I still have a lot of measurements to do.  I still want the same theme.  I'll need to rewrite an updated list of features wanted, but basically it will still be a loop to loop design with a town at each end and a long steady climb up the mountain.

 Blackwater Line New Room

CONGRATULATIONS Mark!  Sounds like you are back to square 1 with all the additional space.  I'm very glad for you.  Instead of going round and round consider a point to point setup.  You can have a "continuous option" on each "end" if you want to let one run hands free occasionally.  SUPER great of your wife to recognize your passion and allow you more area.  :-)  

DoubleDAZ posted:

Mark, if I understood what you said, I picture the new space looking something like this. I see I missed the door in the upper right though.

Anyway, the way I have it, it looks like a 90x252 space with a 54x108 add-on in the upper left. Is this close? I also added a set of tracks with O54 curves (not shown) to the file just to get an idea of what the space will hold.

Capture

 

Dave, That was close.  Actually, I can use the lower 5 feet that you have labeled 36" Walkway.  Like this.

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John C. posted:
Mark Boyce posted:

STOP THE PRESSES!  STOP THE PRESSES!

Major development came up over the weekend!!  As we are cleaning out stuff left over from when our two daughters lived with us, my wife asked me if I wanted to build the layout in the family room adjacent to the "train room".  This encompasses the area the Ceiling Central Railroad is in plus a slightly larger space on the other side of the duct work bulkhead.  All along I wondered why we needed three sitting rooms, the living room, sun room directly above the train room and the front half of the family room; but I never once spoke up.  The furniture in the family room consists of a rocking love seat and single chair her parents discarded to us about 15 years ago, a small dresser with a television on it, and a folding table she uses for jigsaw puzzles.  She says it is too cold to sit down there in the winter, which is true.

So, I am waiting for it to be brought up again as we finish cleaning out, but as you may guess, it makes me think I will put a hold on layout construction; not that I have much time for it this time of year anyway.

The room is 12 feet wide at it's widest, the part farthest from the train room.  After 12 feet, it narrows to about 10 1/2 feet for the rest of the way.   It is 24 feet long.  Now, the one caveat is that I have to keep a walkway open all along that 10 1/2 feet wide section because here are four doors along it, two on the end.  So the workable width at the front is 12 feet, then it would be about 7 1/2 feet width until I get to the end, where the exterior door only leaves 5 feet.  This is a quick diagram of the room.  I still have a lot of measurements to do.  I still want the same theme.  I'll need to rewrite an updated list of features wanted, but basically it will still be a loop to loop design with a town at each end and a long steady climb up the mountain.

 Blackwater Line New Room

CONGRATULATIONS Mark!  Sounds like you are back to square 1 with all the additional space.  I'm very glad for you.  Instead of going round and round consider a point to point setup.  You can have a "continuous option" on each "end" if you want to let one run hands free occasionally.  SUPER great of your wife to recognize your passion and allow you more area.  :-)  

John, Thank you!!  I am going to consider just what you said.  Maybe I could fit in a wye at each end for turning engines and then have the continuous option as well.  

My wife of 33 years has always supported my hobby.  She likes to help by finding scenic items to add, sometimes funny ones, and sometimes ones I wouldn't pick, but I never discourage her.

I like the idea of a Wye.  But, those do eat up much more space quickly than you would expect.  I wanted to put one in a visible area on the Glacier Line and realized quickly that even to turn a small snowplow it would stick out in the aisle about four feet.  That's when I opted to build my scratch-built small turntable.

I'm still trying to envision your space.  I see the door to the train room.  I was thinking you might be able to maximize your space by "stacking" both "ends" of your line in your original space which would become a "hidden" area; complete with staging for both ends of the line.  The main could follow along the walls in the "new" area at no more than 30 inch depth and be a very long grade...your have a much longer run!

I'm still trying to envision/understand the space.

Mike, Dave, and John, thank you!!!  I just took some photographs of the room to show the space.  This is the door at the upper left, the main door from the staircase and the closet where I have all my engine and rolling stock boxes stashed.  First is entering the room and then exiting the room.  You can see in the upper left of the first photograph the bulkhead that covers the I beam and return duct that makes for a problem connecting the Ceiling Central RR between sides of the room as Brian asked about.

2018-05-14 19.15.412018-05-14 19.16.40

Next is standing near the middle of the room facing the front of the house, the opposite direction from the current train room.  We hardly use any of that area.  Actually the built in book case, which is 15" deep can come in handy.  The top of the book case is 42" off the floor.  The window sills are 54" off the floor.  Quite workable, I think.  The door from the first two photographs is just visible on the far right next to the light switch.

2018-05-14 19.16.00

Next is turning around and stepping back a few feet looking towards the back of the house.  The piano, sewing machine table, and some boxes belong to our older daughter.  We plan to get the piano etc moved out this summer.  In the back to the right of the piano is the door to the train room with the blue walls.  In the middle is the door to the patio.  The five feet I can use that I mentioned is the corner where the desk and filing cabinet are.  Now you can see the Ceiling Central RR.

2018-05-14 19.16.13

Here is the bugaboo corner with the three doors, the corner between the piano and the desk.  See how thick the door jam is to the train room.  This was the addition my in-laws put on that was not very well thought out.  The door opening is only 21" wide, and the wall is concrete block with brick on the train room side.  A few pages back we discarded every idea to go through the wall, through the laundry, or the door.  The only possibility was to have the Ceiling Central RR dip down so trains could go through the top corner of the door where I have the new wire I just pulled in Friday with the intent of connecting DCS to both the CCRR and the shelf on the far side of the blue room.  I really need to keep this area open, or I may blow the whole project since that is where traffic goes from the laundry, stationary tub, the rest of the house and the back door. 

2018-05-14 19.16.28

Both John and Dave are on similar tracks.  Stack the two end loops.  The upper town which is Thomas on the real Blackwater Canyon Line can be in the yellow as in the current plan.  The lower town which represents Parsons (the one I started building can be in the back by the back door, and the line continues on towards Elkins which would be the lower stacked loop.  I do agree with John, I want to figure how to do this with no duckunders or pop ups and no stretching, climbing.  The doc says he wants to wait to replace my left knee after I retire in 3 years.  The last few months the right one is acting up too.  I also have a rotator cuff injury that is non reparable, just more PT,  that acts up when I stretch too far or lift.  Like a former coworker who got all his injuries riding motocross told me, "Mark, you never get any of injuries having fun, yours are all from work!!"    Mine are all from crawling on the floor too many years at work before I got my engineering degree and got a desk job at age 51, falling on ice, and falling running to catch my ride up the mountain to work.    

Dave, I just saw the post you made about the wye.  Yes, I agree, that would just be a mess.  Thank you and John on pointing out how much room that takes.

Well that gives some reference of what I have here.  Thank you everyone for all your input!!

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Richie that is a good observation!  It could be done, but we are not in a financial position to do it.  The time to have done it was when my in-laws built the sunroom with the current train room underneath.  When my wife’s grandparents had the house built in 1968, they had a sliding glass door off the dining area upstairs with a small deck.  By the time my wife’s parents moved in, the deck was in bad shape, so they decided to build a sunroom in place of it where my ill father-in-law could sit, watch television, read a book, and watch the birds and squirrels in the trees.  The first proposal was to just build a room with pillars holding it up.  Instead, the builder built a regular slab with an unfinished room on the basement level.  The exterior dimensions are 12 x 12, probably all they could afford for the project.  They ended up putting the sliding glass door in the lower room (the current train room) which came into effect when designing the original Blackwater Canyon Line in the lower room. 

It would have been so much better to make the room a little wider, putting a decent regular interior door into the new room, and then have the exit off that.  That wasn’t their purpose at the time.  They never used the back door.  Long story short, we are stuck with it the way it is now.  As is, I’m buying a little at a time to build even the small layout and using up any used lumber I can get my hands on to build this.  We do what we can with the resources available.  Thank you very much for throwing out the idea.  All ideas are worthy of discussion!!  Certainly many Forum members build additions or whole buildings for layouts, just like Mike G is building onto his garage right now.

I have some other thoughts on what we covered last evening I’ll put in a separate post.

I'm back.  The stacked decks for the turnback loops in the upper left corner should work, a rise of 8", maybe 7" of space between them is good.  The benchwork for that section is the same size and shape as the section in the old plan for the higher town of Thomas.  The benchwork for the lower town that I already built is a mirror image of what is needed here.  Mounting it or casters and having it but up against the stationary shelf is working nicely.  Of course I have not put in any wiring yet, but that will be no problem to have a disconnect cable.  Locking the casters has worked well for construction, but I'll find a way to latch it to the stationary part at some time.  It is really easy to roll away from the wall to work behind, so a section 5 feet across is no problem when rolled out.

I like the yard on the flat in front of the canyon downgrade.  I am seeing that I am able to concentrate on either the front or back when running trains, so I don't notice the other, spoiling the mountain view.  The big curve at the right with the lower town of Parsons is where I would put it.  That will take some thinking.  I am thinking of leaving a narrower walkway for access along the 5 feet of wall from the door to the long wall.  Even so, seven feet at it's widest is a lot.  Too much to even have a narrow walkway behind it on the long wall.  It is too big to do the roll out thing, but I would like to utilize the space.  Maybe a lift up bridge allowing access into the center would work.  I'll draw something up later when I have a chance.

Thank you everyone!!

Hey Mark- Just saw your post and got caught up. That's great news! A least you haven't gotten too far on the build in the back room yet. Your wife is very special to be thinking of you and your obsess....umm... I mean hobby . She must have looked at what you built so far and realized that it is a tight space for o gauge.

I like the plans that Dave and John have sketched up for you too.

Bob

Thank you, Bob!  Yes, it is a rather tight space.  I have to be careful I don't bump anything when I am moving anything around!    I had a nice B&O switcher on the track just for a test run with temporary wiring, then set it aside.  The next time I picked it up, I saw some scratch marks on the cab roof.  I do not remember bumping it, but must have; the dog is too short to jump up at all and has bad knees just like Mum and me!    

I see this plan is now big enough that I need to buy the SCARM package to do anything.  The small room plan was right on the edge.  If I left any track sections unused on the plan, it would bark at me.  That's okay, it is well worth it.  Only good for one PC.  I'll put it on the home desktop right by the door in the photograph above.

I dug up some more photographs that are buried in the preceding 14 pages.  Here is the door to the outside from the "new" long room and the sliding glass door is in the "old" blue room, and another from the inside in January 2017.

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Here is the rolling 5 foot wide section being built last winter.  This is what I said I need a mirror image of for the loops in the upper left.

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Here it is rolled away from the wall.  Even with more weight on it now, it is Easy Peasy!!

2018-02-16 12.04.38

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I made some more exact measurements and some adjustments.  The doorway at the top is actually 96" from the left hand wall.  I think we can live with the curves out in the 36" walkway.  I made adjustments in the lower left, getting rid of the S curves, and making a walkway next to the wall.  I can now reach that town by both sides, so it can be stationary.  The green yard does protrude out from the wall far enough that I wouldn't be able to reach the far tracks at the bottom.  Maybe removing a track from the yard would help.  I have an overlap of the track in the lower right, I haven't figured out how to cut and fit yet, nor adjusting the track heights.  Also, I lost the Capture feature, so here is a cut and paste and post this for comment.  I did include the new SCARM file. Thank you.

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Would there be room enough to move the yard out more to the middle of the room and maybe have access to both sides of it as well as the tracks in back of the yard?  Maybe even having the yard angled toward the upper right corner somewhat if need be? Leaving enough room to still be able to access everything else, of course. Just a thought, I'm not much of a track designer...

Last edited by rtr12

Mark, given your comments, I made some changes:
-- I relocated and slightly reduced the size of the upper loop so it doesn't stick out into the walkway.
-- I moved the blue tracks so they are 4.5" from the purple tracks.
-- I then moved the green yard and removed 1 spur so it's 36" from the wall and 4.5" from the passing siding. With the purple track on an incline, you might be able to reach that track. If necessary, another spur can be removed from the yard. Only you know how far you can reach and if you're willing to use a stool if needed.
-- I fixed the elevation of the new spurs in the lower right. As a result of adding those, the grade for the purple track went up to 2.7%.
-- I changed those spurs slightly and added an O42 setup as an alternative. The way the #4 was configured, there wasn't enough room on the upper spur to hold a full car, so I removed the 6.2" straight. There wasn't any room to put something between the spurs anyway, so they might as well be close together to give you more room above them (where the O42 setup is).
-- I also exploded the room boarders a bit so the baseboard for the actual layout is more visible.

I have to say I hadn't planned on this being a viable design, I was just trying to show the space. However, I really like the extended run from loop-to-loop with both a town and a yard in between. I can also envision pulling a train counterclockwise through the upper loop through the tunnel, backing some empties onto the holding track, picking up the full cars from the mine, moving the empties to the mine and then heading back to town.

Anyway, see what you think.

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rtr12 posted:

Would there be room enough to move the yard out more to the middle of the room and maybe have access to both sides of it as well as the tracks in back of the yard?  Maybe even having the yard angled toward the upper right corner somewhat if need be? Leaving enough room to still be able to access everything else, of course. Just a thought, I'm not much of a track designer...

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Edit: Change the yard a little.

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Last edited by DoubleDAZ

RTR12, I just happened to have been working on Mark's design, so it only took  a minute to throw that together. It can probably go down a little more, but I thought I'd see what Mark says before trying to optimize it. It is a good solution to the reach problem.

Edit: Changed it a little and replaced the earlier photo.

Last edited by DoubleDAZ

RTR12, Thank you very much for the idea of putting the yard out on a peninsula!  It's an excellent solution to the reach problem!!  I had originally thought of a peninsula for the mainline, but then thought the curves out and back probably wouldn't fit and keep the wide aisle.  We need the 36" for moving things in and out the back door to the stairs and garage door on occasion.  I hadn't thought of putting the yard out on a peninsula, but you see folks doing it all the time.  I can be pretty dense at times.  Maybe that is why they are slowly putting me out to pasture at work!    BTW, I know from experience that when Dave has been working on a plan, he can whip up some changes in no time flat!!

The peninsula can make it so the mainline out and back tracks can be separated some more for some scenic effect!  I know what the prototype was(is) like, and I want to give the feel of it, knowing I can't even come close to replicating any part of it in this space in O gauge.  Trouble is, I look at a blank sheet of paper, oh excuse me, computer screen nowadays, and my mind is blank too! 

Dave, you are right about the lower right hand corner using the other switches.  Also, moving the upper right loops back works nicely.  I think the yard lead coming from more of the center like RTR suggested would be good.   Yes, I agree, you just threw it out there as a starting point, but I think you had a good feel for where I am coming from as we worked on this last year.  You know I'm not a guy who wants a bunch of concentric loops or a serpentine twisted upon itself.  I want to get in a bunch of those buildings, mountains, bridges, and the two branches of the Cheat River.

Oh, one more thing, I am thinking that there could be some grade from the top of the lower right loop where you started it before to a little before the new sidings, then pick it up again where you started it.  Of course, the prototype had a grade of 3.4% I believe it was, and I proved all my engines can pull plenty of cars up that grade.  Oh, I got a new FA-2 set and an almost NIB Protosound F3 set.  They look to be good pullers too.

Mark Boyce posted:

Dave, Yes, that is exactly it!!!  I looked up the elevation feature this afternoon, but didn't get it to work yet. 

As you can see, it's easier for me to color-code the track I want to elevate. There are 2 elevation features. One is the Height Shift in the Toolbox and the other is changing the beginning/ending track heights using the Track Heights and Numeric Heights Input buttons to create a grade/incline. If you get stuck on either one let me know and I'll try to help.

Thanks Mark! I am glad you liked the idea. I don't often have any ideas for track plans, but sometimes just get lucky...even a blind hog gets a piece of corn once in a while! You are in good (and speedy) hands with Dave manning the track planning station! And he likes doing it too!!  Good luck with your planning and layout. 

I have been fiddling with an expansion for my layout for a few years now and have nothing to show for it that I like. I hate that part of it, I would rather figure out wiring and stuff like that, which most folks seem to hate. I need to get on the ball, define a definite space, and then offer Dave a suitable bribe for some assistance on an interesting plan. 

rtr12 posted:

I need to get on the ball, define a definite space, and then offer Dave a suitable bribe for some assistance on an interesting plan. 

No bribe needed, but it does start with defining a space and I know that can be easier said than done too. I've gone through 6 iterations of different spaces in 3 different rooms myself, so I know it's not easy and things often change right in the middle, like it has for me and Mark.

I think I nailed down the area to use.  My wife would like to have an area for her sewing, that includes the shelf units along the brick wall.  I'm fine with that.  I made some basic changes that don't make much difference to the plan we last looked at.  It is still quite a bit more room than the 11' 6" x 11' 4" room with the big glass door.

She even brought up the idea that several of you have; could I run a train from the existing room into this bigger room?  Again, I would have to do it at about 73" high so I don't bump my head going through the doors.    Unless, I put in a lift out section about 6 feet long.    

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