@romiller49 posted:GRJ, why not just use a separate brick mounted under the yard to power it. Since the lift is part of the main line with hinges, power to that is supplied with a wire or wires from the main attached to it.
How would I get the power feed from the TIU so that DCS stuff runs over there? The object of the exercise is to be able to run TMCC/Legacy and DCS in the yard.
John,
How about something like this? Solder a lead to the straight side and drill a mounting hole. Then edge mount on both the lift bridge and the yard. Hide them under the tracks. Set one facing up and the mate facing down. You would need 40 of them. I found them in Digi-Key. Not certain of their size.
Chris
LVHR
Actually, I plan on switching power to the main yard independently of the leads, so I don't want them powered across the bridge 1:1. Also, 40 of them would be a PITA to install and keep maintained, I'm going for something much simpler! 
@gunrunnerjohn posted:How would I get the power feed from the TIU so that DCS stuff runs over there? The object of the exercise is to be able to run TMCC/Legacy and DCS in the yard.
I forgot about you running DCS.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Actually, I plan on switching power to the main yard independently of the leads, so I don't want them powered across the bridge 1:1. Also, 40 of them would be a PITA to install and keep maintained, I'm going for something much simpler!
I like simple!!
Use a second TIU and run in super mode. You will have to run one wire for legacy. I have a 3 room layout each having its own TIU and it runs well.
Running in super mode for the yard just complicates things, no need to do that.
Got my PoGo contacts in and installed the connections on the freight yard bridge. I repurposed some contacts from MTH engines for the bridge section.
The PoGo contacts are on the fixed freight yard side, they go down through the wood and the gap and wires are soldered below the layer to feed the freight yard. I had to relieve spots for the solder connections and screws as these two sections go right together with minimal space between them, less than .05".
The PoGo pins are spring loaded contacts for testing, they work well to make the connections. Each contact is rated at 5 amps, and I'll have two in parallel for power and ground, should be more than enough capacity for a freight yard!
This looks really nice. If I understood your post correctly, the image could be more easily understood rotated like this? I was confused by the perspective (and still might be) haha.
Yes, it makes sense to rotate the image, I just didn't think of it. 
That was such a good idea that I fixed the original image. 
Baby steps. Finished powering the bridge and feeding the main yard power through the bridge to the yard. Just have to wire the yard tracks power when my switch panel comes in. The yard is almost ready to use.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Baby steps. Finished powering the bridge and feeding the main yard power through the bridge to the yard. Just have to wire the yard tracks power when my switch panel comes in. The yard is almost ready to use.
Great work John,..... wow....
Took a few minutes but I finally did grasp the setup.
John,
Looks fantastic! I am starting on a new layout and was considering the DZ2500 switches and was wondering if you resolved the issues that you were having?
@GP Ogauger posted:John,
Looks fantastic! I am starting on a new layout and was considering the DZ2500 switches and was wondering if you resolved the issues that you were having?
Thanks. I have resolved the issues with the DZ-2500's. at least for now. Most of the issues revolve around springs as it turns out. The one issue with the serial data was figured out, and I'm currently using the Z-Stuff Data Driver until I do the fix for the CSM2 power sequencing.
If I had it to do over again, I'd go with the Tortoise switch machines, bulletproof and a once and done deal. However, they're a lot more work to install initially. My lazy streak went with the DZ-2500 because they were command and they were easy to install.
Thanks. Tortoise was my other thought as well. I may change my order with Ross and just go that way.
Gunrunner John,
Always teaching us new tricks of the trade. thanks
You may want to consider manual throws where possible. You could even want to use the DZ1000 that has a manual throw on the switch motor then wire it later if needed.
@amtrack5899 posted:You may want to consider manual throws where possible. You could even want to use the DZ1000 that has a manual throw on the switch motor then wire it later if needed.
My whole yard is manual throws. As far as the mainline, I have a route set up that I can clear the entire mainline and set all the switches right with two buttons, I'm not ready to give that up. Also, many switches are out of reach anyway.
I'm not changing at this stage, I was just saying if I knew then what I know now, I'd have given the Tortoise switch motors more thought.
The yard is done! 
Time for a party! Got my switch panel installed, wired all the tracks, and tested all the routes and switching.
One little glitch surfaced that I overlooked when laying track. The Ross #202 yard switches that I used I "thought" I ordered pre-wired, but in looking at my invoice, I got the plain bare switch. So, power was not carried through the switch. In truth, that was probably a good thing in retrospect, I got to decide how the crossover to the next track was powered. However, I conveniently forgot about power until I was testing and noticed that the power stopped as the switches! 
That little oversight was corrected and now all is well.
I embedded a little lighted push-button toggle panel into the yard to power each track individually. Given my track record with switches lately, I added connectors at the panel so I can remove it if necessary to replace a switch! 
The lighted switch panel is a nice touch - a change of pace from the typical switches and probably easier to wire.
Are you using bumpers at the ends of the yard tracks ?
I'm going to just put a "bumper" on the wall at the end, no sense in losing a couple inches of yard for a bumper. I want to find a piece of black rubber that I'll just stick on the wall. Above it, I'm putting track numbers so you can see what track you're dealing with.
I don't know about easier to wire for the lighted switches, but they were easier to fit into that panel.
I found that panel on Amazon, it's actually a desk bezel for passing wiring through. I took the trapdoor and brush assembly out and tossed them. There was a convenient slot near the top to slide in my fiberglass panel with the switches mounted, job done.
Awesome yard & control panel! I wish I had room for half of that.
You may have thought of adding a photo backdrop, but if you haven't, I created a very quick possible example. It would be a fairly easy, inexpensive addition. See attached. Of course you may have something else in mind or nothing at all.
BTW, is there a purpose for this little section?
@ironman1 posted:Awesome yard & control panel! I wish I had room for half of that.
You may have thought of adding a photo backdrop, but if you haven't, I created a very quick possible example. It would be a fairly easy, inexpensive addition. See attached. Of course you may have something else in mind or nothing at all.
Nice background, looks like it belongs! I'm having trouble breathing just looking at it.
Tom
Yeah, I sure hope that kind of air pollution doesn't exist anymore. Of course any type of background could be substituted. Something less harsh. Maybe just a hazy sky. I know Background Warehouse has plenty to choose from. Or maybe something like this.
Thanks for the commpliment
Hey Tom, I actually slapped it together in photoshop, from 2 images on the internet forcing the perspective. I drastically altered & combined the images so as not to step on any copyright toes.
The air pollution is period. Authentic.
Hi Tom,
If you search the internet for "train yard pics" & "industrial landscape", you'll find the original images I combined.
Thanks for the interest,
Joe
P.S. The scary background is something I created from a 1936 animated movie, "Max Fleischer's Play Safe". It was a favorite of mine as a kid. Back in the 60's it would play once in a while during Saturday early morning cartoons.
I shared the movie with my grandson when he was about a year old & it became a favorite of his. So I did a bunch of screen grabs while playing the movie. Then created it in Photoshop. It's now a background on my layout.
Ahh - I thought maybe it came as one unit.
For a wall bumper, depending on how wide and thick you want it, look at garage wall guards, automotive weather stripping/molding or window/door weather stripping/molding.
I love using photo backgrounds to add depth, when space for actual scenery or buildings is limited.
@ironman1 posted:Awesome yard & control panel! I wish I had room for half of that.
You may have thought of adding a photo backdrop, but if you haven't, I created a very quick possible example. It would be a fairly easy, inexpensive addition. See attached. Of course you may have something else in mind or nothing at all.
Cool background, I love it. I'm considering whether to have a background or more shelves above the yard. Where did you get that background? I'd need one 12 feet long.
I see you made it, care to make two?
@ironman1 posted:BTW, is there a purpose for this little section?
It's for "future" expansion. By plopping an O72 switch in the last track, you can run out to move platform. I'm not using it right now.
@ironman1 posted:Hi Tom,
If you search the internet for "train yard pics" & "industrial landscape", you'll find the original images I combined.
Thanks for the interest,
Joe
Joe,
I did something similar on a lower tech scale (images off the internet, too) than you (and not as nice as yours!) a few years ago to test how it would look.
Tom
Here is a photo of part of my layout, another screen grab from a movie. The background image is a photo of the Palisades across the Hudson River. I combined portions to create something that fit my needs. It's all about illusion.
John's finished yard inspired me. I'm sorry if I hijacked this thread off into another direction.
John, great idea on that lighted switch indicator, regarding backdrop or shelves, at the back area I would think shelves, with the long side backdrop. Very nice area on your layout.
Like the yard, if you have a lot of trains, shelving is never a bad idea! I see only one issue with shelving, it's a bit of a reach to the wall for easy access.
Even if you do shelving, it'll probably start 12 to 18 inches above the yard. You could still run an interesting background with lighting under the first shelf. If you aren't a traditional toy train guy, it's all about the illusion of reality or even fantasy.
John, For a self stick wall bumper, check out an RV supply, The seals that fit behind the slide outs are very pliable, thick walls about 1/2 to 3/4 inch wide depending on the manufacturer. The adhesive is made for all weather so peel and stick. Usually comes in black, white or tan.
Love the control panel John, if you get a chance I sure would like to learn more about it.
Ironman1, I am with John, you willing to make one for sale?
@mike g. posted:Love the control panel John, if you get a chance I sure would like to learn more about it.
Not much to tell, I just mounted the switches and wired them with a resistor for each LED. The switches have an LED with separate leads, so you just wire them like you would separate LED's. Obviously, the center rail for each track comes to one switch.
In order to make the panel removable, I added connectors to the panel.
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