Newbie Railroader

also I can still use all my straight pieces that I got with my starter set if I do decide to go with a wider curve radius, correct

so guys the best thing I should do is stay with union pacific since that is what my starter kit is. later on if I wanna buy another engine I should consider this one here since it is a UP engine a Hudson  

http://www.lionelstore.com/Uni...-4-Hudson-674-681303

any reviews on this engine

To answer your transformer question - you can run a small layout with your 80 watt transformer. If you're planning on doing a large layout, I would recommend investing in either a MTH z4000 or a Lionel ZW. The MTH z4000 is cheaper than they ZW, but both are excellent transformers that will power just about anything. 

Yes, you can use your straights with wider radius Fastrack. 

As for road names, it's up to you. Some people like to model anything they like, others stay road or area specific. Me, for instance, I'm from and live in Maryland. The Western Maryland is my favorite railroad and the one I primarily model. However, I also have some B&O locomotives, as the B&O was also in Maryland and often ran near the WM. For rolling stock, I mix and match what you would have seen on the WM and B&O. But, again, it's a matter of preference. It's what's great about this hobby - tons of selection for all different tastes. Enjoy! 

"Just about anything" means you're safe with curves 072; and the bigger, the better. Even with 060, you'll have some size limitations.

FasTrack is excellent for what we call "carpet central" layouts on the floor. When it comes to building a permanent layout layout, it has a well deserved reputation for being noisy. I had purchased every piece to build my permanent layout, only to sell it for $0.50 / $1.00 right before I laid the first piece.  

When it comes to permanent layouts, I would strongly urge you to take a long hard look at Ross Custom Switches. Hands-down they have the best selection of switches you'll find anywhere. Made in the USA, and when you call there's always the chance that the owner will pick up the phone. It just doesn't get better than that!

For straight sections, you can use Ross, or Gargraves. They both use the exact same track pins. The Gargraves flex track is super easy to use.

And yes, you can run your present locomotive and cars on any of these (and more) track systems. There is a lot of passion here when it comes to brands of track.

When it comes to road names, as mentioned earlier that is really up to you. HOWEVER there are several names that dominate the hobby. These include Union Pacific, Pennsylvania, & Santa Fe. You'll get the widest selection when you stay with the "Big Names". That said, I'm a N&W guy.

Welcome to the forum Justin!! A great website to visit is "Thor's Trains" Google it and there is a great amount of information. All O gauge, Explains the different sizes with pictures. Also has a variety of layouts to look at. Hope this helps!

Welcome Midnightrider Justin.

You should be able to get all your questions answered here.

.....

Dennis

Welcome!

I was in the same boat around 8 years ago. My first train set was an MTH starter set. It used MTH RealTrax (similar to Lionel Fastrack) and used O-31 curves. After A year or so I bought more straight tack sections, then sold all my O-31 curves and bought O54 curves. Then I started buying more fancy "premier" locomotives and cars that required the wider curves.

It's a process. Start small and work your way up!  I'm now thinking of buying O-72 curved track, because most scale-sized steam engines need to use very wide curves because they have more wheels. And yes, Lionel, MTH, Weaver, Williams, and Atlas are all compatible. It will be marked "2-Rail" on the box if it's 2-rail.  I made this mistake early on buying an  Atlas 2-Rail car. I didn't know what that meant at the time. When I got home, I was upset it didn't even hook up lol. Luckly I know a 2-rail modeler who I sold it to.  Just remember, O-72 curves and larger will run practically anything you buy. O-54 will only run O-54 and smaller, and O-31 will only run O-31 or smaller.

 You need a scale rail top profile to run truly scale equipment.

Fine scale wheels have short flanges, needing the rail top to be squared.

"Pizza cutters"(Lionel & other flanges) will run on the scale track if the code is right.(code=rail height from ties top up)

Otherwise your Lionel flanges will bump the ties.

Some tin flanges are even deeper.

(Most fat wheels can go straight through a turnout if the fat flange will only be on the long straight rails side. IE; one direction looping only. You cant choose which direction it will be clockwise or counter clockwise, not both; no using the turnout deviation; and all turnouts must either be on the left or on the right, not mixed. Again code is an issue for some tinplate, 0-27 more so. It is a shorter code, esp. in turnouts.).

I run tubular, and Super-O, but for nostalgia.

Gar Graves, Atlas, Ross, MTH. Look at those. They perform and look better for a scale model train.

 Similar in ways, but each unique. Those would be the companies that I would look at.

Note: solid vs tubular still hasn't "gone away" as a choice to be made at this point yet. Tubular can have a squared profile too. 

 My PW Super-O is one example. If you look you'll see similar.  

 Availability can be an issue. Over a few decades of time, Gar Graves has been pretty consistent on availability. 

 Other than a loop to keep you going, I would not buy a bunch of track yet. The good stuff is all pretty impressive, and its look is an individual & important decision.

 Curve size is limiting factor. If you must own a Jawn Henry, Big Boy etc someday. You better start to figure out how your going to do it now, before one engine makes you rip up all the hard work you've done. 

A Hudson is a fine choice size wise, some can pull off 0-27. But I don't have the one your considering to know its limits.

The transformers above are Cadillacs. 

There are a few others that shine at a lower price.

If with older power supplies, your options are even from pre-war too.

Here's a list of old stuff with watts listed right there.

 I always liked the KW, and American Flyer 18B, or30B or similar (AF has "deadman" handles, but no whistle control) . I think those all look like the control stand on an electric loco and are pretty powerful too.

 You can use them to power a command environment, but I think I remember reading some MTH control boards don't like one of the Lionel supplies(New?Old?).

And my AF is noisy in an electrical way. It trips new whistle boards randomly, but not PW Lionel. I need to try a cord filter or two some day

 I'm just pointing. If anything sounds good, some better research or specific questions are always suggest.

(I don't even own any MTH. That's my little brothers thing).   

Hi Justin, Welcome to the hobby. May you find many years of happiness as I have. Lots of good advice has been given in this thread. Adriatic beat me to the advice about going to shows and a local hobby shop. If you are lucky, you have at least one good hobby shop in your area. The train shows are great to find some good bargains and lots to choose from...hope you can find one that you can visit at least once or twice a year. Bring a friend or family member to help you on your "hunting!" 

Tom 

Welcome aboard, Justin!

many of the questions that you have can be answered by looking at the beginning of the Lionel 2015 Signature catalogue. The Lionel website or YouTube channel has many videos to help with operational aspects and product nuances.

You'll find that this hobby requires a working knowledge of many subjects.

Take what you know, then learn on the fly. When you bump into something, post the question or topic here.

Have fun!