O22 issue

First thing I see wrong is the constant power plug does not seem to be inserted correctly on the left hand switch. You need the insulated pins in the short rails of both the straight and curved rails exiting the switch.

Yes I noted that above. It’s powered down right now so I can use the other one. Insulating pins are in their proper position.

Here ya go. I hooked up the remote switch and plugged in the constant power. Obviously the lights aren’t on on the remote because it’s not getting juice. It has to be something with the orientation as if I remove it and rig it up by itself it works fine. The light is on, so it’s getting the other leg through the rail for the constant power to run the light but is it possible it’s not getting the other leg for the switch motor because of the insulating pin of the previous switch?

Is that left hand switch cut?

Ensure that your insulating pins are inserted in the rails noted below by the red dots.  After those pins are correct, you may still want to add a common/ground connection to the center binding post to ensure the outer rails have good common/ground continuity.

You may have a weak ground connection - run a wire jumper(white). This also shows the proper fiber pin locations.

If the switch keeps wanting to flip to the turn, the green rail is being shorted to ground, if it keeps wanting to flip to the straight, the blue rail is being shorted to ground. Remove the bulbs from the controller to narrow down the issue.

Rob this helps thanks! All fiber pins in proper position.

You have a control rail that is receiving outside-rail continuity. It could be caused by a metal pin where you think you have an insulated one, or the rail flanges are touching, or there is a sneak path through an adjoining track section, or you have a defective controller, or...

So, the step-by-step method is as follows:

1. Turn off all the power.

2. Remove all rolling equipment.

3. Unscrew all wires from each switch.

4. With your meter set to continuity (Ohms) test from a known, NON-insulated rail section (outside rail) to each of the supposed control rails on each switch, as shown by the previous guys' messages, one at a time.

5. When you see continuity, there's your problem rail.

6. If you don't find a problem rail, check the controllers for a jammed contact.

Since the problem is being caused by "too much" ground, adding more ground wires probably isn't going to help.

Thanks!!!

will check and report back