Paint Removal

I use Castrol SuperClean, full strength in a Spackling trough.  It is perfectly safe on plastic, and I typically strip Die Cast Postwar loco bodies.  When stripping Die Cast, it usually only takes 6-8 hours of soaking.  Scrubbed with an old toothbrush, and rinsed in warm soapy water.  Recommend using latex gloves, as it pulls the moisture out of your skin, but is otherwise safe.  I have used it exclusively for stripping, for last 5 years, with great results.

Generic Lectric Shave and Magic Erasers cut into 1" squares will do the trick.  Be sure to rinse the shell thoroughly afterwards.  

Mitch 

TeleDoc posted:

I use Castrol SuperClean, full strength in a Spackling trough.  It is perfectly safe on plastic, and I typically strip Die Cast Postwar loco bodies.  When stripping Die Cast, it usually only takes 6-8 hours of soaking.  Scrubbed with an old toothbrush, and rinsed in warm soapy water.  Recommend using latex gloves, as it pulls the moisture out of your skin, but is otherwise safe.  I have used it exclusively for stripping, for last 5 years, with great results.

When I did a Google search on Castrol Super Clean, I came up with the product described at the following link: https://www.walmart.com/ip/SuperClean-Tough-Task-Cleaner-Degreaser-1-gal/23752162?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=3481&adid=22222222227017227582&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=58368785808&wl4=pla-63481317305&wl5=9007926&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=23752162&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwoav_6eu5QIVTD0MCh3tDAMwEAYYASABEgJ4fPD_BwEhttps://www.walmart.com/ip/SuperClean-Tough-Task-Cleaner-Degreaser-1-gal/23752162?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=3481&adid=22222222227017227582&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=58368785808&wl4=pla-63481317305&wl5=9007926&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=23752162&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwoav_6eu5QIVTD0MCh3tDAMwEAYYASABEgJ4fPD_BwE

Is this degreasing product that to which you refer?

Thank you.

Randy, That is the Super Clean that I use also. It works well as described earlier and can go down the drain. Good luck.

Jeff

Jeff:

Thank you VERY much.Another person suggested using brake fluid, but, the proper disposal after use may be a bit of a nuisance.

Randy, you're welcome. I've used brake fluid on plasticville before. It works but not fast enough for me.

Jeff

Randy, Yes, that is what I use exclusively, on all my stripping. As I mentioned, I bought a cheap plastic Spackling trough, from Home Depot, also available at other home improvement stores.  I put the loco or rolling stock inside, and fill with SuperClean, so it is covered.  Most stripping I’ve done this way, take 6-8 hours of soaking, and scrubbed with old toothbrush.  After strip, I rinse it under warm soapy water, then let dry thoroughly.  When I am ready to paint, I use latex gloves, and wipe it down with isopropyl alcohol, immediately before painting.  Most items get primed, then your choice of color is sprayed, in light even coats.  My usual choice of paint is either Krylon, or automotive DupliColor, if the shade can match closely.  Others may recommend Rustoleum, but I have nothing but grief with Rustoleum.  It’s your choice on the paint, you use.

Thanks for all of the great information. I have a passenger coach that i painted and the paint cracked while drying looking like alligator hide.  I have to get it off and start over. Your advice is a GREAT help!

This is what 6 hours in powdered Tide and hot water did.

This car had its factory finish and a brushed on coat of paint on top. Works equally well on plastic. A lot less toxic that brake fluid or commercial paint strippers too.

Lionelski posted:

This is what 6 hours in powdered Tide and hot water did.

This car had its factory finish and a brushed on coat of paint on top. Works equally well on plastic. A lot less toxic that brake fluid or commercial paint strippers too.

What ratio of Tide to water is optimum? Also, does the car need to be scrubbed with a tooth brush at the end of the 6 hour soak?

Thank you.

Randy Harrison posted:

What ratio of Tide to water is optimum? Also, does the car need to be scrubbed with a tooth brush at the end of the 6 hour soak?

Nah, just airbrush on some fabric softener and you're good.  

Mitch

I use a product called LA's TOTALLY AWESOME it's available in dollar stores...use a high concentration with hot tap water...just did a PW Santa Fe shell,it took all of the paint off..down to the yellow plastic...let it sit over night,reapply if necessary.... 

Randy Harrison posted:

Lionelski posted:

This is what 6 hours in powdered Tide and hot water did.

This car had its factory finish and a brushed on coat of paint on top. Works equally well on plastic. A lot less toxic that brake fluid or commercial paint strippers too.

What ratio of Tide to water is optimum? Also, does the car need to be scrubbed with a tooth brush at the end of the 6 hour soak?

Thank you.

About a cup for 2-3 gallons of water, the hotter the better for metal, not too hot for plastic or it WILL warp.

Maybe just a little touch-up with a toothbrush in tight spaces

John:

Thanks for the proportions.

TeleDoc posted:

My usual choice of paint is either Krylon, or automotive DupliColor, if the shade can match closely.  Others may recommend Rustoleum, but I have nothing but grief with Rustoleum.  It’s your choice on the paint, you use.

Same experience here. I've found Krylon to be much better than Rustoleum - better nozzle, goes on smoother, dries much faster. I'll have to check out DupliColor.

I always used a paint stripper for removing paint from tinplate which was difficult and very messy (plus not that healthy).
Red some of the comments about a product called SuperClean which is about $9.00 for a gallon at Walmart.

I have a 253 in parts that needed a repaint with the paint being removed. Use a plastic shoe box, poured about a half gallon of the SuperClean into the plastic box and submerged the frame into the solution. The solution is a purple color. Had the frame in the solution for about 24 hours and when I opened the lid of the box the purple liquid turned black from the paint that was on the frame. This stuff really works. Used a floor brush and very hot water to remove the paint/solution residue from the frame. Dried the frame of and put the items on my furnace to completely dry, then will buff with "0000" steel wool and do a final wipe with alcohol or lacquer thinner.

Best part of this product is that there is hardly any smell and is environmentally safe.

Now my question, I am planning to remove the paint from the shell and I will try to use the old solution with some more added. Has anybody used this solution over and over again? Do you get the same results?

I will post some pictures of the frame after the stripping and will post som picture of the shell before and after the stripping process

Ron,

Superclean is great stuff. I have added to existing solutions, but feel that a fresh batch works better. I have used it primarily on plastic shells, It has blackened some aluminum parts for me like a horn that couldn't be removed from shell. I usually use it full strength with a small amount of very hot water. Your mileage may very. The aluminum horn that turned black was left in solution for a few days.. Hope this helps.

Jeff 

Postwarman posted:

Ron,

I have used it primarily on plastic shells, It has blackened some aluminum parts for me like a horn that couldn't be removed from shell. 

Jeff 

Hello Jeff, thanks for the information on Superclean. One question, what type of plastic did you remove the paint from? Post-war, Modern or both? Just want to be sure it will work on modern without harming the shell.

Thanks again

Charlie

Charlie,

    Both a postwar switcher shell, with the horn issue, I also stripped a MTH switcher shell that someone had painted with a brush, actually 99.9 % of all the original paint stayed on the MTH shell which is what I wanted, just wanted to strip the crappy paint job..But I kept checking it about every 20 min. and used a old toothbrush to brush the shell while rinsing  under hot water.They must use some tough paint. I've also used it to strip/clean older plasticville. I think you'll be OK, Just keep an eye on what you soak, I usually leave overnight and check the progress. I don't know if you noticed on the bottle, it says be sure not to let SuperClean dry on whatever your using it on. Shells tend to float so you have to get a deep enough pan. I used a drywall mud pan and always had the roof of the shell floating above the liquid. If I remember correct, I think I used a brush to weight the shell down and it left a mark on the shell, if your stripping tinplate you should be fine. 

Good luck,

Jeff

I used Easy Off oven cleaner on my boxcar and it was fine.

Also, I read someone using yes, -not tide- but they used dishwasher tablets. 3 or 4 in very hot water for 10 minutes. BUT this was on tinplate/metal.