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My father bought my 4 year old a Lionchief 2.0 ET44C loco for his birthday last month.  It is the "pride of the fleet" and he plays with it everyday.  The rear coupler is extremely hard to lock onto another car.  I physically have to move the coupler of both the rolling stock and locomotive while pressing together to get the locomotive coupler to lock.  I have tried several different cars, and our other lionchief locomotives have no issues.  Is this a simple fix?  We had to send another locomotive to Lionel and it took nearly 1.5 months to get back.  I would hate to do this for a simple fix.

Thanks for your time.

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@Perry Power posted:

Is this a simple fix?  .  I would hate to do this for a simple fix.



Sadly, I have the exact same engine and so know it very well. No, there are things you can try but in general a coupler is how a coupler is.

It's a mechanical thing. The diecast knuckle has a ramp and that pushes on a locking pin inside the coupler coil. The idea is, the coil can pull back on the pin and that releases the coupler knuckle to swing out. You latch the coupler when the little ramp molded into the knuckle fights the pin and spring and pushes them over the latch. Another factor is the shape of the knuckle compared to your rolling stock you are trying to couple to. They may not be pushing or fit well and thus it takes a lot of force. Again, the coupler knuckle has to close to a point where the latch can latch. That why wiggling and other force you apply manually makes it work but not just backing into a coupler it does not latch.

So, based on that, 99% sure if you sent it to Lionel, unless the coupler is truly bad, they might or might not replace it with just another identical coupler. Because this is mechanical fit and mating to your rolling stock, the new coupler would be just as likely to not work well either.

Basically, it's file the coupler to shape it to match and smooth out any casting flash. Lube it either with extra light oil or I've seen others say dry lube like graphite?

I know not the answer you wanted to hear, but again, just being up front and honest as I can knowing what is involved and what the process of an RMA might result in no actual change or fix.

This video shows details of how the coupler is constructed and if you removed the rivet holding the knuckle how to access the guts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fEl98ylyFkg

Again, unless the coupler is truly bad, replacing it with the exact part number is likely to yield the same fit and function or "lack thereof" with your mating cars.

https://ogrforum.com/...23#39722753426494723

Sadly, I have the exact same engine and so know it very well. No, there are things you can try but in general a coupler is how a coupler is.

It's a mechanical thing. The diecast knuckle has a ramp and that pushes on a locking pin inside the coupler coil. The idea is, the coil can pull back on the pin and that releases the coupler knuckle to swing out. You latch the coupler when the little ramp molded into the knuckle fights the pin and spring and pushes them over the latch. Another factor is the shape of the knuckle compared to your rolling stock you are trying to couple to. They may not be pushing or fit well and thus it takes a lot of force. Again, the coupler knuckle has to close to a point where the latch can latch. That why wiggling and other force you apply manually makes it work but not just backing into a coupler it does not latch.

So, based on that, 99% sure if you sent it to Lionel, unless the coupler is truly bad, they might or might not replace it with just another identical coupler. Because this is mechanical fit and mating to your rolling stock, the new coupler would be just as likely to not work well either.

Basically, it's file the coupler to shape it to match and smooth out any casting flash. Lube it either with extra light oil or I've seen others say dry lube like graphite?

I know not the answer you wanted to hear, but again, just being up front and honest as I can knowing what is involved and what the process of an RMA might result in no actual change or fix.

Veron, thanks for your time.  Given Lionel's turn around time, I will try to file it down.  A little youtube university has shown me the most likely culprit....   I am a little frustrated, we started with a LionChief Polar Express, that evolved into a 5x9 layout downstairs.  We have purchased 4 lionchief locomotives (ranging from Lionchief, to LC+, to LC 2.0, and have had issues with all locomotives except the Polar Express (that as of two days ago completely stopped working, wont pair, connect, or do anything).  The passenger cars of the polar express had wires that rubbed the axles and eventually shorted out, smoking the cars and frying the lighting internals.  That was within the first 6 months of use.  The other loco had a defective smoke unit, that was send to Lionel,  and took 1.5 months to get back.  They later said not to use the smoke unit for more than 30 minutes at a time, and to only put 5 drops of smoke fluid in as needed (completely contradictory of what the manual advises).  Our latest B&O GP-7 LC 2.0 arrived with literally zero lubrication on the gears and axles.  It made a squeaking noise as it went around turns.   Upon inspection every gear and axle was dry to the bone.  A little grease and oil fixed the problem, but non-the-less, it is frustrating.  My son loves his trains, and keeping them running seems to be a full time job, not something I was expecting, especially considering the locomotives were brand new.

To Lionel's credit, their customer service has been extremely helpful and responsive, and they have always proven to be easy to contact and quick to respond. I am just happy our layout can accommodate no more locomotives, and I have to keep running what we have.

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