The lobster pots have finally arrived from the UK.
I've done a bit more around the other side of the stone shed.
Back to working on the tug boat.
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The lobster pots have finally arrived from the UK.
I've done a bit more around the other side of the stone shed.
Back to working on the tug boat.
I can smell the salt air, Max! Interestingly shaped lobster pots compared to what we use in "Down East" Maine. The simulated brick on the shed is terrific. How did I miss that?
Tomlinson Run Railroad
Thanks, TR.
Maybe you have been slaving over your word processor?
EGGS-actly, Max. I hope to make up for it with an hour or two set aside this weekend for some model painting, research, and team track prep. (Links in your post on discovering those lobster pot/traps will come in handy someday!)
TRRR
I need three deck winches for the tugboat. I've managed to find kits for the trawl winch and the cargo winch. They needed a bit of help, but came out OK.
The cable is 10 lb nylon coated stainless steel fishing trace. It's very springy with a mind of its own!
With a bit of weathering, I think that they will pass.
The anchor winch will have to be scratch built.
Hi there Max, the winches turned out great! If you had not said anything I would have thought you bought them already assembled!
I like the winches Max. So is the cable just wound around the drums and held in place by tension from the eye splice through the rollers or did you have to fasten the cable some other way?
Thanks, guys.
Joe, the cable drum was drilled as an anchor (like the prototype ), and then the trace was wound on by hand (and unfortunate language), and secured with Araldite. Then after the drums were installed, the tails were pulled through and the talaurits were made from brass tube, crimped with pliers.
I'm glad it's over.
Only the anchor winch to go.
Yes I've tried winding Lionel cable reels with wire, just one turn all the way across on top of pipe insulation to make them look like full reels and just one turn resulted in unfortunate language so I can imagine winding the whole drum. I'm not familiar with Araldite. A glue or epoxy?
Hi Joe
I also cheated on the drums, and made them big enough that I only had to wind on one and a half layers.
Araldite is an epoxy two pack glue.
http://www.selleys.com.au/trad...dite-super-strength/
There is a 5 minute version also, but I didn't want to take any chances.
They also make a marvelous product called Knead It.
http://www.selleys.com.au/trad...ad-it-multi-purpose/
I use it to make the convex ends of brake air reservoirs and the like.
"If it's Selleys - it works." I have no connection to the product.
They look very convincing. I wonder if there are any good forums on RC scale ship construction. I'm a subscriber to a wonderful one for scale RC aircraft rcscalebuilders.com.
Thanks, Myles.
There are many forums on model ships and boats.
Google will take you there.
Cheers
I finished off the anchor winch and lined it up for comparison with the other two.
I think that I'll get away with it.
Nice work, Max. So the anchor winch is scratchbuilt? I'd be proud as can be to have this kind of work on my layout.
Joel
Thanks. Joel.
Yes. I wasn't able to get the anchor winch kit as they are out of production.
I appreciate your kind words.
Looks to me like those turned out just great!! More nice work!!
Thanks very much, RTR
I'm keeping an eye on things and what I see is great. Good stuff Max , very good.
Thanks for posting. Roo.
Thanks, Roo.
Hmmm.
uh-oh I think the wheels are turning on a new addition to the harbor
Max,
You are an incredible modeler. The work you do is truly amazing. I just could not resist, however. Seeing your OGR handle (yes, I know Oz refers to Australia), and your work on the deck . . . . . "The Wicked Winch ?"
Max, just fantastic!! If it had not been for the internet ,myself and the entire world would never have seen the excellent work "Southerners" like Neville and yourself turn out. The OGR forum has let us see excellent work from everywhere and essentially converse in real time.
IIRC it was at the home of a WWII US Marine neighbor where I first heard a record of Waltzing Matilda. He must have been with some Aussies on one of the islands. I was reminded of it seeing this. (They may even have performed Scotland The Brave too.) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7UFmwArST-I
Max:
Excellent work. The winches are fantastic.
Joe
Thanks for your kind words, Guys.
Here's a fun question for you . . . "What was the name of the jolly swagman in the song?
Answer: "Andy."
♪ ♫ "Andy sat and watched and waited 'till his billy boiled . . . " ♫ ♫
Deck furniture - fore deck, anchors and traditional bumper . . .
After deck . . .
Fixed with epoxy glue.
Such a kidder! The "deck furniture" looks great in place, Max. Although Ralph doesn't look likes he's gonna climb into one anytime soon! At least he seems to be weighing his options. I like the choice of black and white for the boat, with a touch of red (?). Lastly, those two photos really highlight your wave detailing nicely!
Tomlinson Run Railroad
Thanks, TR.
I've got some red and blue up my sleeve.
Ship looks great. I've got a real soft spot for RC ship models (or others for that matter). Check out my Facebook photo gallery for a complete collection of those that I built.
Thanks, Myles.
Is your Facebook gallery link in your profile?
I'll have a look for it.
I have to stick with my system on this part of the build.
The next step is to install the 33 LEDs inside the main superstructure.
They are pre-ballasted 12 Volt LEDs, which come in a roll and which can be separated into sets of three.
The device at the bottom is a resistor wheel. It's self explanatory, really. It's inserted in series and allows the operator to select a range of resistance between 5 Ohms and 1 Meg Ohm.
The LEDs in the bridge deck have been ballasted using the wheel to look "right" in terms of brightness, so now I bench ran the LEDs in the superstructure to match them.
It's a bit challenging to get all of the illumination right in the photo, but hopefully you can get the idea.
The additional ballast resistance required turned out to be 100 Ω; surprisingly the same amount as the bridge deck.
Funny about that.
Very well done, Max! the brightness is at a good level!
jp
Thanks, JP.
MaxSouthOz posted:I have to stick with my system on this part of the build.
The next step is to install the 33 LEDs inside the main superstructure.
They are pre-ballasted 12 Volt LEDs, which come in a roll and which can be separated into sets of three.
The device at the bottom is a resistor wheel. It's self explanatory, really. It's inserted in series and allows the operator to select a range of resistance between 5 Ohms and 1 Meg Ohm.
The LEDs in the bridge deck have been ballasted using the wheel to look "right" in terms of brightness, so now I bench ran the LEDs in the superstructure to match them.
It's a bit challenging to get all of the illumination right in the photo, but hopefully you can get the idea.
The additional ballast resistance required turned out to be 100 Ω; surprisingly the same amount as the bridge deck.
Funny about that.
Illuminating! Quite brilliant, in fact, in an LED kinda way. But seriously, Max, the color and intensity looks terrific and the oversll effect of the upper and lower lighting looks unusually warm (that's a good thing).
TRRR
Well Max, things are looking bright for you! LOL Really I like how things are turning out! someday down the road when the time is right I will ask you about the lighting, but not now, cause I am getting older and forgetting more!
Thanks, TR. LEDs come in warm and cool. The colours are created by the frequency. The higher the frequency, the bluer the light.
Thanks, Mike. Anytime you're ready.
As I said earlier, I bought this kit from someone who started it and gave up. That meant that I had to disassemble his work to that point. Some joints were set up out of square and some had come apart due to poor glue selection.
The funnels were no exception. I finally got them looking close to correct.
Today I installed them. I'm having to make a completely new aft flying bridge.
The deck has sagged over time, but the screw which goes in the tab will pull it back up.
Both front and rear tabs on the superstructure will have lockers which sit over them to hide the screw heads.
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