Hi guys, Dave that looks great and I like the idea of the lift out scenery section.
Dave Ripp, I plan on using the same setup I have right now for the bridge when I enter the room. I use an actuator like Mark, and it lifts that Atlas double bridge, a single-track girder bridge and a road bridge. If you haven't seen it or forgot here is a video of it.
@mike g. posted:Hi guys, Dave that looks great and I like the idea of the lift out scenery section.
Dave Ripp, I plan on using the same setup I have right now for the bridge when I enter the room. I use an actuator like Mark, and it lifts that Atlas double bridge, a single-track girder bridge and a road bridge. If you haven't seen it or forgot here is a video of it.
I like it, I just thought if you could lift it the walk into the pop out area it would be easier on your body.
Perfection in execution, Mike!!
All of us need something to make it easier on aging bodies, Dave!!
@Dave Ripp. posted:I like it, I just thought if you could lift it the walk into the pop out area it would be easier on your body.
Dave you are so correct! LOL
ok guys and gals, I just posted on another thread, I found something I missed and forgot about when planning the new layout. It is the opening going from inside the train room to the outside for the future runaround the back yard. I have to talk with Dave and see if there is some way, we can make it work! Here are a couple of photos. The first is of the outside and the second is where it is on the inside behind the power building.
I will have to break out the Lazer level to find out the exact height!
Mike, what kind of track will you be using outside? I always thought a outdoor ogauge layout would be really cool.
Jeff
@Jeffery Boat posted:Mike, what kind of track will you be using outside? I always thought a outdoor ogauge layout would be really cool.
Jeff
Hi Jeff, to be honest I am not sure yet, some folks say Atlas is the way to go and some say GarGraves. I just don't know yet. I am waiting till I get to that point. For me as I am on a fixed budget the $$ is going to be a big factor!
Hi everyone, just for a fallow up, I think I am going to have to cut a new hole and patch the old one as the height of the one now is at 44 1/2"!
Mike, the old design I have says the height is 46", but I don't know how far it is from the wall or if that's the latest file for your current layout. Copying a track from the old file and pasting it into the new file shows it's 2" from the wall, so there are 2 ways to connect. One is to use flex track, but that introduces something close to an O-80 S curve. The other is to move the tracks on the right closer to the wall and use a straight track from the added switch. Here's a version using the flex track with heights adjusted to 37" and 46".
Mike, I knew I shouldn’t have relied on the compass in your designs. Bith we’re pointing north, so that’s what I went with. 🤣 Either way, you got the idea, so that’s all that matters.
BTW, is that left side far enough away from the wall? If it is, then your overhangs must not be too all that much, which is good.
Hi Dave, I think it's the same as the old plan, I checked and its a little bit more room!
Mike, I have file "mike 6-08-21.scarm". I rotated it 180° and the track through the wall is closer to the left wall in that file than in the one you just posted. It only matters if you want to use the same hole and just lower the bottom of the opening. The center rail is 2" from the wall in my file, but it might not be the current file or distance.
Hi Dave, I think I am going to have to lower the hole as I don't see any way to gain 9" in less than 30" of track. As I posted earlier the hole with the track going out right now is at 44 1/2". That would be one heck of an incline! LOL
As far as the alinement goes, with having to move the hole I think that is no problem.
Mike - that turnout will be on an incline. Be careful with the lead ins and outs.
If you really want a reversing loop, looks like you could use a Ross double crossover. You probably would want to move the inner loop tracks together to mate with the Ross easier. There are a couple used ones out there for less than 4 switches and a crossover. Either way the option is not cheap. Maybe install the track so you could lay one in if you can get a deal on one. You could move it anywhere along the parallel track.
Hi Jeff, If you look at the last layout plan, I ran the train simulator, and I was able to turn the engine around to go back up the grade. But I just might have enough switches to do what your plan shows when I get everything taken down, I know I have a couple still under the table,
Well guys and girls, I spent a little time packing up autos and semi's, also all the people had to be sent on vacation! LOL! I have to get more boxes as I only saved the boxes for special engines and cars. It is going to be a long project!
Hi Mike- just read through your latest conundrum......
Looks like you are doing a major redesign. I think you are in good hands with Dave's track planning work. I hope you can get the rebuild completed sooner than later.
I'm making the popcorn and watching from 3000 miles away.
Bob
Hi Bob, thanks for checking in! I hope you have a lot of popcorn and drinks as it could be a long process! By the time I will probably running trains after my last run before I take it down this winter you will need a cold one! LOL
Ok, Mike, here's a version for your review. As you can see, I just added the left crossover because the placement for the one on the right lets a train go from the lower yellow track up to the next and then to the next. If you use or create a double-crossover together and move the single crossover to the right, you lose that option and the train will have to go all the way around to change tracks.
I added the Green track on the upper left corner to show where I think the current track through the wall is. I then put the switch flat and separated the grade into 2 sections. As you can see, the lower grade would be 2.6% and the upper grade 2.9% or 2.3% depending on where you locate the end.
And just to clarify, below is a version that shows one set of reversing loops in Blue with both ends on the main level. I believe that is how Mark dealt with a switch on a grade on his layout, so you can check with him to see how it turned out.
Below is another version that shows the current set of reversing loops in Blue and Green with the Blue end on the main level and the Green end on the upper level.
@DoubleDAZ Dave. Any way to get a yard worked in? Perhaps along the top wall with 3 or 4 tracks? Or maybe pinch the reversing loops closer together to fit in the extra track. A yard loaded with freight cars can be a point of interest in itself. I know Mike is trying to reduce visual track, but lack of a freight yard can be a real issue.
The extra turnouts to get the reversing loops look good. Especially the ability to jump tracks.
I might think about flipping the levels so I could get the yard at a lower level and out of visual sight. That would yield a lot of space - I would probably plunk a passenger station on the upper level with track below with the lower portion visible through a concrete valley. Chicago Union Station is at and above street level but the track is all below grade. Several approaches to the city are similarly built. I did something similar with TPRR when I realized I needed yard space. Visually it was interesting watching trains pull through that area.
Chicago rails Google earth example of below grade commuter rail -- Just west of the river are the commuter rails feeding Union Station.
Mike, just went through all of the posts. Glad you’re starting a separate build thread. It’s a good choice to stat near the grandkids. Always lots of fun and memories for you and them. Like in Mark’s case, it’s better to work this out on software first. It’s great that you’re able to make this big change to the layout, how it looks and operates. You’re in good hands with Dave and Jeff, that’s for sure. I’m with Bob, I’m cheering you on from Long Island. Take your time with these decisions they will pay off for you and the grandkids in the end. Great idea about the outdoor layout!
Andy
Jeff, I guess the short answer is I’ll have to defer to Mike. He already has some storage tracks in his current layout, but has elected to take them out in this new design. Obviously, they can be added, but something will have to give, mostly space for building, etc. If his goal is to entertain grandkids, then storage tracks don’t really do that, being able fir them to run trains does. Part of the problem with designing is no one takes the time the measure building footprints and add them to the design in the form of rectangles and polygons. It’s easy enough to add storage tracks, but I have no way of knowing what that means for other things Mike wants. Maybe if I get some time today I’ll see what I can come up. Bear in mind, I didn’t create this design, I’ve just helped Mike with a few SCARM related things.
Jeff, I had some time, so I played around a bit and think I was able to add some storage in 2 different places. I changed some of the colors to make the loops easier to keep separate. The upper set of storage tracks in green simply built on the 1 siding Mike already had there and adjusted some of the tracks a little to get enough clearance. I added the lower green tracks for a little added storage, but left the yellow filler tracks in the aisle in case Mike wants to use this file but not both sets of green tracks. I don't really know if you gain much with the 2nd set, but I threw it in anyway.
I've also changed my mind about having both crossovers because I can see the value of letting trains on the yellow line change directions when 2 trains are running on it and the blue line. Otherwise both trains just go in circles until they work their way to the upper reversing loop.
None of the changes look out of place and I think they add some play value.
Dave i am travelling again and cant get to the SCARM file. Designing a track plan is always an exercise in compromise.
For me, i want my passenger cars on tbe layout. I have too many to do that but at least 6 sets at any one time. I also have about 30 engines about 8 are of the size once on the layout i do not want to take them off hence engine storage. Then the grand kids and me like to see several trains running at the same time. And on and on. I need to buy a bigger house. Jeff
Jeff, we all need bigger houses, but they still won’t be big enough. 🤣 I don’t know if Mike is going to like the changes I made, but I was surprised how easy they were to make. There’s still not a lot of storage. The yellow tracks could be squeezed closer together to get more, but I think that would really be pushing Mike’s goals for landscaping.
Hi guys, some interesting thoughts, I will have to do some thinking on this. It kind of puts me back to what I have now, no room in the middle for buildings.
Sorry I haven't got back sooner; I have been busy taking things down and by the end of the night I am beat! I wish I know an easy way to get the cork back up! LOL
@mike g. posted:Hi guys, some interesting thoughts, I will have to do some thinking on this. It kind of puts me back to what I have now, no room in the middle for buildings.
Sorry I haven't got back sooner; I have been busy taking things down and by the end of the night I am beat! I wish I know an easy way to get the cork back up! LOL
Mike, an oscillating tool works great for removing glued down cork and ballast.
@Dave Ripp. posted:
Thanks Dave, I have one and will give it a try tomorrow!
Mike, I don’t advocate one way or the other, just thought you’d like to see Jeff’s idea before you decide. Buildings vs on-layout storage is always a problematic choice.
I use the poor man’s method. Slide a trowel under the cork; occasionally it needs a tap. It works on cork glued to Homasote or right to wood. Of course, I have never removed as much as you have, Mike! 😄
Hi guys been out taking up track again this morning, Oh what fun it is! LOL
@Dave Ripp. Dave, what kind of blade do you use?
@DoubleDAZ Dave, I have to check but the buildings that I want in the center I think are 10"-12". So, I don't know what that would leave me. Might be room for one siding for car storage.
@mike g. posted:Hi guys been out taking up track again this morning, Oh what fun it is! LOL
@Dave Ripp. Dave, what kind of blade do you use?
@DoubleDAZ Dave, I have to check but the buildings that I want in the center I think are 10"-12". So, I don't know what that would leave me. Might be room for one siding for car storage.
Similar to this one, my son buys contractor packs, so I never really paid attention. Anyone with a little step down 1.5 or 2 inches wide.
Hi guys, I hope your all having fun!
Today I took up some more track and cleaned it, used @Dave Ripp. Dave's method for removing the cork which works great! Heck a lot better than a putty knife! LOL Now I have to work on getting some of the glue up, was thinking of a belt sander, we will see!
I also was able to get the first section of elevated track area removed and hope to get the bridge removed tomorrow. At least that is the plan! LOL Here is a photo of that area.
@DoubleDAZ Dave, I check the width of the biggest building and it is 12" that I want to fit between tracks. I found 4 MTH #4 switches if that helps!
@mike g. posted:@DoubleDAZ Dave, I check the width of the biggest building and it is 12" that I want to fit between tracks. I found 4 MTH #4 switches if that helps!
I hope you realize that 12" means none of the designs so far will work because the yellow tracks are closer than 12". So, I've been working on this idea, but didn't tweak it until you've had a chance to look at it.
Mike you need to add space so Dave can get the buildings in. BTW - I think most of my buildings are no more than 7x9. Most of the WoodlandScenics fall into that range as well. Maybe this 12 incher is a special case??? Seems to me you can get a whole town into the space between the yellow and green track. If not then the green siding needs to go. This is where a yard on a lower level begins to make sense ... lack of space. Is the window on the right side of the proposed layout as I look at the layout photo?
Nice job Mike! You’re making great progress. It was once said “ it is easier to destroy than create.” You are smart to clean the track up as you go. Inch by inch…
Andy
OK GUYS....PROBLEM SOLVING IN FOUR WORDS....
LOWER LEVEL STORAGE TRACKS 👍
I haven't dug into the SCARM plan to see how it would work but the long back wall would be a good run for the grade. Think of Elliot's below grade yards.
I'm always ready for a cold one Mike. The fridge in my garage is always fully stocked.
Bob
Dave looks like you worked in over 16 inches between the track for Mike's buildings. 3.8 slope on the lower level feeder. maybe a little steep but not intended for running.
That's the one thing about HO Scale vs Scale 3-rail. You can get away with the 072 curves but still are limited by the height of the cars, so we need twice the run for the same grade.
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