Postwar motor issue

The usual problem with these is the lower bearing plate starts floating in the stamped aluminum motor side frames as the factory staking  works loose over the years. This will cause the armature to hop violently and the brushes to jump around in their holders. This typically makes it run much better in one direction, & sound like a coffee grinder in the other.

The old Lionel fix for this was to "dent" the side frames with a punch, some shops used cardstock jammed in to firm up the plate.

I have had good luck using tiny black anodized self-tapping screws into drilled pilot holes to hold the bearing in place.

For a non-destructive fix, which has held up very well for me for several years now, use CRC QD or any non-residue contact cleaner, clean ALL oil & residue from between the sideframes & the bearing, using the nozzle to spray into the crevice.  Dry it out well, several hours or overnight with a light airflow.

Now use the regular "thin"(not gel) CA adhesive("Super Glue", Eastman 910, etc.) and flow the cement into the crevice on both sides, letting it creep in by capillary action to fill the gap.

In about 10 minutes, the loco is ready to be lubed(grease on gears, oil on pivots & bearings/axles - don't forget to grease the lower armature bushing below the worm) and will run like new. 

Not all of these will run correctly with the bearing plate in the exact center. Thats why I use plastic shims with CA glue. 

Rob

ADCX Rob posted:

For a non-destructive fix, which has held up very well for me for several years now, use CRC QD or any non-residue contact cleaner, clean ALL oil & residue from between the sideframes & the bearing, using the nozzle to spray into the crevice.  Dry it out well, several hours or overnight with a light airflow.

Now use the regular "thin"(not gel) CA adhesive("Super Glue", Eastman 910, etc.) and flow the cement into the crevice on both sides, letting it creep in by capillary action to fill the gap.

In about 10 minutes, the loco is ready to be lubed(grease on gears, oil on pivots & bearings/axles - don't forget to grease the lower armature bushing below the worm) and will run like new. 

Thank you for your detailed information...I checked the bearing plate and it was definitely loose and needs attention.  

I currently only have CRAZY glue regular no-run gel "in-house".  I assume that is not going to do the trick.  The only thing I found on-line is Bob Smith Ind Glue IC-2000 on Amazon.  Can you tell me if that would be an appropriate substitute or give me some makes and ordering numbers to look up?

Happy New Year!

Greg

oldrob posted:

Not all of these will run correctly with the bearing plate in the exact center. Thats why I use plastic shims with CA glue. 

Rob

Thanks for your comment.  This motor may be one of those kinds because I manaually shifted the bearing plate to one side and it ran like a charm (until it shifted back lol).

Can you tell me what kind of "shims" you use and where your purchase them and/or how you make them?

Happy New Year!

Greg

Gregcz1 posted:

 Can you tell me if that would be an appropriate substitute or give me some makes and ordering numbers to look up?

Happy New Year!

Greg

Any super glues of the water-thin variety like these will work. It needs to be thin for the capillary action. I usually get the inexpensive multi-packs at Harbor Freight - it seems to be a very fast seller and as such is always very fresh.