Prewar paint cross list from original Lionel to rust-Oleun/Krylon rattle cans.

Looking for a Rustoleum or Krylon match for the madison cars from the legends of Lionel series released a few years ago ( like the one pictured). Is this Tuscan-brown, tuscan-red, plain tuscan? 

 I have repainted many locomotives and cars in my collection and a few for friends. I have a very cooperative auto supply source in my hometown and I can take the color I am trying to duplicate and they will scan it with their machine and make me a spray can of professional spray paint. The ease of application and the quality of the finished job far exceeds any of the across the counter shake and rattle cans. Yes, it’s a little more expensive however leftover paint lasts a long time.  I have some cans that are seven years old and still very usable.

My theory is that the ease and quality of the job is worth the extra money for the paint.

Jim

I just used Ace Rust Stop Gloss John Deere Green, item number 17136 for the roof of a Dorfan 610 Derrick car. I assume it would work for other Dorfan cars as well. It goes on in a fine spray and dries quickly and very hard.

I used Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch 2X UltraCover Gloss Real Orange, item # 249095 for Lionel Orange for use on prewar accessories.

For a Lionel 2814r cream / blue car I used:

• Krylon Dual Superbond Ivory - Gloss, item # 8809, and
• Rustoleum Protective Enamel Gloss Royal Blue, item # 7727 (This is a 32 oz non-spray can. I used an airbrush with this.)

George

New reply to old post from someone who hasn't posted in years. I am restoring some prewar 012 switches and 110 bridge spans. So I went looking to see what might be available in pea green. Not optimistic since others had posted here that there was no close color in Rustoleum or Krylon. Well there is now a line of colors from Martha Stewart in my local Michael's and they have a color that is not far off- Green Olive. So I ended up priming with a little Rustoleum Eden in satin and then top coating with the Martha Stewart Green Olive.

@RonH are you still compiling the Lionel paint cross reference spreadsheet? Is the 2015 link above the latest? I’ve been searching and have not had much luck finding any other listings. Thanks

I have the list and I can not get to it right now as it is on my work computer and the remote access to it is not working now. Once I get the remote access working I can look and make sure the list is updated with all the latest info and repost it again. I live in Northern NJ and this virus thing is terriable.

Steamer posted:

years ago, one of the mags did a chart on Prewar paint and modern paints. I THINK it was either Walt Hulsweder or Dr Tinker. 

Someone on here recommended Rust-oleum Metallic Charcoal 244228 for Gunmetal. I used it on the home made tender for my 225E, and it looks pretty close to me.

That article appeared in the March 2001 issue of Classic Toy Trains. The author listed a few comparable paints from Ace, Krylon, Rustoleum and Tru-Value.

You guys having any luck storing Krylon or Rustoleum?  Cans I have bought in the last ten years will clog after the first couple uses, and cannot be resurrected.  What a waste!

I have Duplicolor cans from way back - they always work to the last drop.  No hazardous waste problem.  They did change their yellows three years ago, and now Schoolbus Yellow is an ugly pastel color.  I stockpiled the older cans, since they match my aircraft.

bob2 posted:

You guys having any luck storing Krylon or Rustoleum?  Cans I have bought in the last ten years will clog after the first couple uses, and cannot be resurrected.  What a waste!

I have Duplicolor cans from way back - they always work to the last drop.  No hazardous waste problem.  They did change their yellows three years ago, and now Schoolbus Yellow is an ugly pastel color.  I stockpiled the older cans, since they match my aircraft.

Sometimes I can just swap out the nozzle from another can that works since the paint is good.

I always take the tops off empty cans and put them aside and if there is a vlog just grab another 

 Sherwin Williams  can match paint and put it in a rattle can for you. But you need a picture or sample of what you want matched.

bob2 posted:

You guys having any luck storing Krylon or Rustoleum?  Cans I have bought in the last ten years will clog after the first couple uses, and cannot be resurrected.  What a waste!

If you suspect the nozzle is clogged, try calling the company number, ask for customer assistance. 

I did so with Rustoleum a couple years ago.  I explained that I've never had any success with their method of inverting the can while depressing the nozzle to clear it.  Besides, it's a waste of paint.  The technician asked which paint(s) were clogged (to identify the nozzle type), took my address, apologized for my troubles.

About a week later I received a padded envelope with more than a dozen replacement nozzles!  No charge whatsoever.  I yet have more than half of these, and it salvaged a couple cans of camo color for me.

Most of these rattle-can manufacturers I imagine would do the same....if asked.

Besides, it's just a phone call.

FWIW, of course....

KD

NJCJOE posted:

Steamer posted:

years ago, one of the mags did a chart on Prewar paint and modern paints. I THINK it was either Walt Hulsweder or Dr Tinker.

That article appeared in the March issue of Classic Toy Trains. The author listed a few comparable paints from Ace, Krylon, Rustoleum and Tru-Value.

Yo, Joe!?....

Which March issue?  IOW, what year?  (Not a subscriber....need to know what I'm searching for.)

Thanks!

KD

BTW.....GREAT THREAD!!  Glad it's being updated....LOTS of great info here.   

I wipe the nozzle off with a dry paper towel after each use. I stopped inverting the cans. That only helped marginally. Black seems to clog more often for me. Be careful removing the nozzle, so you don't spray yourself. You can take the nozzle off and soak it in a dixie cup of thinner, but wiping it is usually sufficient. I've only had a few cans fail over the last few years and I have 20 on my shelf.

George

I have twenty year old cans that spray. Invert the can until air sprays, clean the nozzle, store cool and dark, pick-up and shake one when getting another too.   Clearing the tubes are less of a waste than a clogged can. 

A drop or two of thinner in a can outlet and repeated presses once nozzle is on will sometimes unclog a can seal or nozzle. So will an increase in can temp. (pressure rises) and sometimes rigging the nozzle down/open allows can solvent to weaken/dissolve the set paint.

bob2 posted:

You guys having any luck storing Krylon or Rustoleum?  Cans I have bought in the last ten years will clog after the first couple uses, and cannot be resurrected.  What a waste!

I have Duplicolor cans from way back - they always work to the last drop.  No hazardous waste problem.  They did change their yellows three years ago, and now Schoolbus Yellow is an ugly pastel color.  I stockpiled the older cans, since they match my aircraft.

I use a lot of RustOLeum X2 paints. Unlike the earlier designs, you can't do the ol' flip em and clear em' routine, but I do wipe down the nozzle right after each use with alcolol or lacquer thinner and that seems to help. And as another member said, in many cases, replacing the nozzle on top with rescue the rest of the paint. There is a limit, a one year old partial can might not spray any more, but for $4, I'll go get another one.

Jim

dkdkrd posted:

NJCJOE posted:

Steamer posted:

years ago, one of the mags did a chart on Prewar paint and modern paints. I THINK it was either Walt Hulsweder or Dr Tinker.

That article appeared in the March issue of Classic Toy Trains. The author listed a few comparable paints from Ace, Krylon, Rustoleum and Tru-Value.

Yo, Joe!?....

Which March issue?  IOW, what year?  (Not a subscriber....need to know what I'm searching for.)

Thanks!

KD

BTW.....GREAT THREAD!!  Glad it's being updated....LOTS of great info here.   

Sorry about that. It's in the March 2001 issue.

NJCJOE posted:

Steamer posted:

years ago, one of the mags did a chart on Prewar paint and modern paints. I THINK it was either Walt Hulsweder or Dr Tinker. 

Someone on here recommended Rust-oleum Metallic Charcoal 244228 for Gunmetal. I used it on the home made tender for my 225E, and it looks pretty close to me.

That article appeared in the March issue of Classic Toy Trains. The author listed a few comparable paints from Ace, Krylon, Rustoleum and Tru-Value.

NJCJoe what year was that March issue?

my NAPA store sells Martin-Senour (Sherwin Williams) and they can match an original color with their light analyzer and come up with a formula to match, but the sample that is needed has to be large enough to get an accurate reading. They suggest auto gas door-sized but have matched smaller samples with decreasing accuracy. Once they establish the formula, they can mix in basecoat/clearcoat or one stage enamel, I believe a 1/2 pint is the smallest they can accurately mix. Some stores can also cram it into an aerosol can, but not many. 

I save the spray nozzles from the various spay cans and clean them out with a thin pin and lacquer thinner if necessary to have spares for clogged nozzles. 

If you have a hard to find paint spay can that clogs up on the inside or the gas is gone and paint is good inside you can puncture the can on the top with a small nail covered by a rag in case some gas is still pressure.  Then pour out the paint into a jar and save for use in an air brush to paint with.

Charlie

Great idea Charlie!

Blow them out with a compressor after use.

Steve

Jim O'C posted:

my NAPA store sells Martin-Senour (Sherwin Williams) and they can match an original color with their light analyzer and come up with a formula to match, but the sample that is needed has to be large enough to get an accurate reading. They suggest auto gas door-sized but have matched smaller samples with decreasing accuracy. Once they establish the formula, they can mix in basecoat/clearcoat or one stage enamel, I believe a 1/2 pint is the smallest they can accurately mix. Some stores can also cram it into an aerosol can, but not many. 

I attempted to do that at an auto paint store, wanted to match colors on an MTH Milwaukee State car in standard gauge. Was not a large enough area to get either the orange or maroon colors, so a color swatch book came out. Each swatch had a hole in the middle that you could put on top of the color in question. I am amazed at how many orange shades there are, probably went through 300 to find one close enough. But in the end it worked pretty well, they will make up a spray can that you actuate when you are ready with a plunger in the bottom of the can. Not cheap, but matched, and I had 10 standard gauge cars to paint.

Jim