Problem addressing DZ-2500 switches via Legacy

I am no expert but I use them also. My experience is that sometimes they get confused. Try just slowing down.  First check the wiring to be sure the switch works be pressing the button on top of the switch. To enter programming mode it takes longer than the two seconds mentioned. If I remember right you want to get to where they are alternating flashes very quickly. 

I second what mike mike said, iirc you have to hold them longer than the instructions state. Than on the Cab2 you hit switch, than number for that switch, than aux 1 than set and the blinking slows or stops to show that it accepted the command. To test it hit the switch button and number for that switch than the thru or out button and the switch should throw.

Hey guys, thanks for the thoughts. The switch does function manually. As I press and hold to move the switch into the 'set' mode it blinks back-and-forth at a slow pace and then speeds up the back-and-forth blinking. I let go at that point, assuming that the switch is ready to accept an address. The command base and the 2001 do blink when I attempt to send out the address. I have been going over this for about a week and figure when the problem becomes apparent it will be something really silly that I have done wrong. In the meantime.... it is really frustrating!!!

Mike

How are you sending the address?

Do the switches work as SW #1 as is before assigning an address?  If not then your probably not even communicating to the switch thus it isn't accepting the command.

Also is your data driver one of those that is compatible with Legacy or the earlier version which required modification?  I have the mod info some where, but Dennis at Z-Stuff would be best to contact if you need the mod.

Jim

Answering both quesations -

Sending the address (according to the instructions) sw-#-thru, where number is the number I am choosing.

I actually have been in communication with Dennis and through that communication realized that my previous 2001 was not blinking when I hit the thru button so I sent the thing back for him to look at. In the meantime I bought another unit (I'm impatient) from McCormack hardware and have been trying to get my set-up running with that one for the past few days.... and Jim, really thanks for that info! I did not know that the switches are set to a default address of 1. I will try a different switch without programming it at all. and see what happens.

Thanks for all of the questions.

Mike

I tried just addressing a new switch as switch 1 (not assigning that address but using it as the default address)  and asking the switch to move to the opposite position and although the LEDs on the base and the 2001 light up nothing happens on the switch I connected up. I would assume that means that even though everything looks like it is working the command base is not talking to the switch. Anyone care to comment on that?

Mike

Do you have anything else connected to the Legacy Base DB9 port?

How are the switches powered? Are they using the same supply as the DZ-2001?

If you have anything else connected to the Legacy serial port, see if the switches work with only the DZ-2001 attached to the port.

(and I have to ask, you do have a data wire going to the switches?)

Nothing else connected to the db9 port.

The switches are powered from the same main transformer but a different side. The MRC dual has two variable outputs and one constant output.I have tried to control the switch with the track not powered - '0' volts. And yes... considering my level of expertise in this no question would offend me. The data wire is connected.

As an exercise I cued up a different 2500 that says it has an address assigned on power up. I manually went through switches 1-99 and nothing happened. Each time the 2001 and base lit up for the movement request. I also connected the manual button which does throw the switch.

Mike

The switches would need to share a common with the data wire driver - are the commons  of the MRC transformer internally connected? 

I actually have the common binding posts for all three sections tied together. I would assume that should satisfy the common ground requirement. That said, since there does not appear to be communication, and since the track is powered at the same voltage as the switches I will try wiring the switches to the same buss that I have the track power wired into and see if that helps.

Thanks

Mike

Darn - I was hoping it was a common ground issue.

At this point I would try the most minimal test:  power the data wire driver and a single dz-2500 from the 14v port of your MRC transformer.  Don't connect the accessory post or the dz-2500 to anything else, and don't have the data wire connected to anything but the test switch.

If that doesn't work, there is clearly something wrong with the driver or the switch machine.

I'm not quite sure what you are saying here. What about the command base? At the moment I have a 2500 wired to one side and set to 16V with nothing else connected there and no other switches connected other than the one I am attempting to work out. The track is to the other side at 18V and the grounds common. I believe what you are saying is just shut down the track voltage, which leaves the common from the base connected or just disconnect the grounds and run the base and the switch and dataline from the single port?

Mike

The command base common connection shouldn't matter - you are not using the radio transmission function unless you command trains or wireless accessories.  The ground for the Legacy serial port is the third prong of the Legacy wall wart.

I'd just try the simplest possible setup:  DZ-2500 and DZ-2001 powered from the 14v port (or one side of the transformer set to 14v and not powering anything else), DZ-2001 plugged into the command base, command base plugged into the wall.

You could disconnect the command base's connection to the track outside rail to see if it made any difference, but it shouldn't matter.

OK. I got it. Command base, transformer, switch and data line. I will disconnect the track. I'll let you know what happens.

Mike

Make sure white wire from Z2001 is connected to blue wire on Z2500.

Woody

Well I got my first 2001 back from Dennis and installed it today and everything works now. I guess it was that low power thing that he fixes. Maybe I should buy that power booster device that I have heard about just in case. Anyway... thanks for all the questions and comments.

Mike

Are there markings on the z2001 that works which distinguish it from the version that does not work? Or is it just, if it doesn't work send it back for replacement?

ralph

There is a surface mount resistor next to the label X2 on the ckt board. It is stamped on it's top 110 on the older DZ-2001. That resistor has been changed to a 330 or a 390. This was done to lessen the load on the new Legacy base DB9 signals. It's about as light a load on the Legacy base that can be achieved while still providing enough current to drive the opto-isolator which drives the data line.

I would recommend the Booster amp that Dale M. provides to Forumites at a very reasonable cost. It's especially required if you are trying to drive anything besides the DZ-2001 and you don't need to modify the DZ-2001 if you have Dale's booster amp. Just search for Dale Manquen

Thanks CJACK

I just wanted to know what I have. I do have the booster hooked in to the wiring. I haven't gotten to the z-2500 problems yet, that is another of Salome's veils yet to drop. 

In other posts, I have been trying to determine why my CAB1/CAB2 are having difficulty addressing the "boxes" configured off of my bases. This is just another piece of info for me to have when I ask for help

Appreciate your quick response.

Rallph

2 things I overlooked from the beginning that caused me alot of wasted time, now everyone of my 50 z-2500Cs have worked perfectly for over a year.

1- Both the driver pcb and the switch motors  must share the same ground.

2- when you originally buy them some may be programmed for DCS and some TMCC

you must initially program them for TMCC,

Just  a tip, in case that was overlooked

Just to second the notion... the resistor on the board that came back to me from Dennis is 333 ohms and the one on the board I still possess is 111 ohms. I'll probably upgrade the one that is not working myself. Dennis will do it for free though if you contact him. I find it interesting that the stores sell units that are not right.

Also for Ralph... if you search one of the forums there are comments on the correct way to wire in the power booster unit. If you do it wrong you might have issues.

Finally for Patrick, or someone else... I find the procedures on the z-stuff instruction set to be a bit disjointed. For instance, I think that setting the switch for TMCC or DCC mode should come first. Dennis actually comments on that last. Would any of the more experienced users care to list the procedure that properly places the switches into TMCC mode?

Great bunch of comments on this post!

Mike here you go.

1) Press the button to put the machine in the out position with the red led on.

2) Press the button a second time and hold the button until the light start alternately flashing, continue to hold the button until the green led is on and the red is flashing ( about 2 to 4 seconds) then release the button.

That will put the machine into DCS mode or take it out if it's in DCS mode.

To check to see if it's in DCS mode you can take 12volts AC and put the common to the black and the hot to the red and touch the blue or white wire to the black. The machine should respond. Blue should be through and the white should be out.

Ron

Thanks Mike

I found a thread from 2012 that describes the wiring in great detail. I will check mine today and verify what I have done. 

Appreciate it.

Ralph