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I have a MTH PS 2 Hudson that was running fine ealier today when it suddenly began accelerating.  I got it stopped, shut it down and then restarted.  Everything comes up as it should: smoke, lights, sounds all working as they should.  However, when I start forward, the smoke stops, no chuff, and the engine begins accelerating on its own.  I tried the factory reset, re-added the engine and still no luck.  I also checked the under side of the tender to be sure the switches were in the proper position.   I am using DCS wifi with the latest version.  Has anyone else experienced this?  Any ideas on how to restore to normal operation?

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I agree with Clem.  The tach attached to the motor in the boiler sends the "speed" signal to the PS2 board in the tender.  If the tether has a compromised pin or wire in the harness for the tach, the tach signal will be lost and you will lose chuff, smoke and control of speed. If run in conventional, the loco will speed at the set track voltage, then slow down and cycle between the two. It is either a broken solder connection at the socket in the locomotive (from repeated installing/removing the harness) or a broken wire in the tether from repeated flexing.

Last edited by Jon G

Thanks guys for the replies. This model has the wireless drawbar. The screw holding the drawbar to the engine did in fact come loose while I was running it, so I think you are on to something. I had a kit with shorter drawbars so I replaced the original, but no change. Therefore it must be a pin or wire inside the engine harness plug as stated. I’ll check it over again but it sounds like a trip to my MTH service repair guy. Thanks again for the replies!

Thanks Bruce for the input.  I was able to use a tender from another PS2 engine, and the engine operated as it should, with the tender sounds and chuff working properly.  So, the problem appears to be isolated to the tender.  Visually, there does not appear to be any issues w/ wires to the socket, and all are secure.  I don't know that the wire harness to the drawbar is readily available as a replacement part, so I'm afraid it still looks like a trip to the repair guy.

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