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Recently I purchased a few, let's call them "new old stock" items.  One of these I purchased from a dealer and the other was purchased from a random person.  The only important detail here was they were two completely unrelated people.  Technically the items weren't "new", maybe "unused" is a better word.  Both were F3/7 B-units and had very similar failures - made years apart.  Unit 1 is TMCC equipped from the 2007 catalog and showed zero signs of use.  Box was in the outer shipper, I'd say easily P9, the shell and outward appearance of the locomotive was C9 or C10.  No marks or our outwardly evident issues.  Unit 2 has Legacy, and is from the 2017 catalog.  This one, sold as a customer return with one described issue was also in near new shape.  Box P9+ with shipper and shell was C8 - only because part of the shell which is glued on from the factory (the part of the shell that has the roof fans on it).  In older versions of this, it was a snap in part, but in later versions it's glued.  I include the ratings/descriptions mainly to say that neither of these looked to have been messed with by the users.  Screw heads were black, no evidence of tampering etc.

Upon putting each locomotive on the tracks, they made a weird noise. It sounded like a grinding or slipping gear.  Needless to say after testing each I opened them up.  Both of them had the rear motor (the one without the tach) dangling by it's power wires.  One had both screws loose and floating in the shell (hint check the roof magnets if you get a unit like this) and the other had one screw out and one hanging on by probably two threads.  In both cases, it seems that the screws had stripped from the motor plate.

These weren't the only issues however.  Both units also had some of the porthole windows hanging on by a blob of glue about the size of a pinhead and others completely loose in the shell.  I would blame the users who handled these items for this failure, but other windows were completely intact with sufficient glue around the window flange.

The unit that came from the dealer (2017 era) also had the following issues...  The electro-coupler was loose and the spring was bent and out of the channel that it usually sits in.  Nearly every screw on the unit was not properly torqued down, and several had wiggled out to the point that it was visible upon inspection.  And probably most distressingly, the heat shrink tubing around some of the high current wires was not "shrunk".  It floated back and forth along the wire with no effort.

I bought both of these for very good prices from the auction website that shall remain nameless, and I got very good deals so I'm not complaining that I got "ripped off".  The one from the dealer was a little more surprising because it was described to have only one issue - however it had many more (as detailed above).  In their defense they did offer to refund my money, but I really just wanted the item for some of the parts for a project I was working on, and I rightly or wrongly I felt that since I made what I thought was a low-ball offer on an item that was returned (and he took it) that returning it might just result in someone else getting duped.  Again, I only wanted some of the parts from it, which individually would have cost me more directly from Lionel.

Anyway, I wanted to point out the failures I found, specifically the loose screws, unshrunk heat-shrink, and the motor mount issues.  I think the motor mount has either an insufficient amount of threads or is made of a metal that is too soft to support the motors weight.  It's entirely possible that both of these items were mucked with by the previous owners, but they both failed in a very similar way.  Additionally, the loose screws could be exacerbating that issue if the motor is loose from the start, it could just wiggle loose in shipping or after some use. 

Maybe both of these were just made on a Friday at 4:59PM.

Last edited by rplst8
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No way to know for sure, but with 3 and 13 year old items of largely unknown provenance, entropy and, most likely rough handling might be more likely explanations than manufacturing or design QC.  Many of the QC problems reported on the internet are due to shipping and handling damage is my guess. 

Folks make statements to the effect that the outer and inner box looked fine as proof that nothing happened.  That's unfortunately completely incorrect.   I've seen any number of individuals with fatal head injuries/devastating damage to the brain who had absolutely no evidence of serious external skull trauma as an example of why rapid acceleration and/or deceleration can be more important to contents than actual external contact injuries.  Similar deceleration injury to a locomotive or other train item could occur by simply dropping a box from 5 feet off the ground. If it lands flat, there will be little or no evidence of the trauma on the boxes.  Just sayin' and hoping not to hear comments that don't incorporate a knowledge of physics and engineering .

Last edited by Landsteiner
@Landsteiner posted:

No way to know for sure, but with 3 and 13 year old items of largely unknown provenance, entropy and, most likely rough handling might be more likely explanations than manufacturing or design QC.  Many of the QC problems reported on the internet are due to shipping and handling damage is my guess. 

Folks make statements to the effect that the outer and inner box looked fine as proof that nothing happened.  That's unfortunately completely incorrect.   I've seen any number of individuals with fatal head injuries/devastating damage to the brain who had absolutely no evidence of serious external skull trauma as an example of why rapid acceleration and/or deceleration can be more important to contents than actual external contact injuries.  Similar deceleration injury to a locomotive or other train item could occur by simply dropping a box from 5 feet off the ground. If it lands flat, there will be little or no evidence of the trauma on the boxes.  Just sayin' and hoping not to hear comments that don't incorporate a knowledge of physics and engineering .

I agree that maybe some rough handling or a drop could have loosened the motors. However I don’t think it could’ve loosened every screw on the frame nor un-shrunk the heat shrink tubing. Had the tubing moved and exposed the high current solder joints, it could have caused a lot of damage or worse.

Sometimes people lie.  And to be more kind, sometimes a person gets an item in a box, and never removes it BECAUSE it looks like it was never opened, knowing that an item "new in an unopened box" will sell faster, if not faster and for more money.  You might contact the seller(s) and ask for a partial refund.

I had a "new in box" early 2000's Legacy diesel, and it would take off at full speed the minute you addressed it and turned the throttle.  I took off the shell, and the flywheel with the tach reading rotor (term?) fell off.  It could only be that it was never tightened at the factory.  Easy fix other than it used an Allen wrench the size of an ant- but CA took care of it.

Unless you are willing to pay for new, under warranty at full price, you will have to fix these problems occasionally.  

I think these "toys" are so complicated that it is difficult to get perfection.   And/or to get perfection from a worker paid $500 a month.  And remember- Lionel, MTH, Atlas and others are importers, not manufacturers, and maybe participate in the design- but their employees are not the ones who assemble the product.  And the O gauge train business is not big enough to support an employee in China.  I have had about a 50% defective rate of brand-new ones, bought through the LHS, and that had to be sent back for service.  If it is minor- I fix it myself. 

Hint: always check the screws- don't overtighten, but check!

 

"However I don’t think it could’ve loosened every screw on the frame nor un-shrunk the heat shrink tubing."

Probably not, but serious vibration during transportation could loosen screws too with no external evidence.  In my imagination a truck with a bad suspension or on a road in bad condition could create a great deal of vibration.  Hard to imagine how that could affect heat shrink tubing, I grant you.

Of course, some dufus at the factory being too lazy or hungover to do things properly is equally if not more likely .

Last edited by Landsteiner

These replies have gotten way off course.

Remember, one of the units I purchased wasn’t used per se, but a customer return.  Additionally, I purchased it from an authorized Lionel dealer who is located about 2 hours from me.  I did make the purchase online, but it was a local hobby shop.  

I’m just trying to provide a little information to Lionel if they care to listen. Two separately purchased items, made years apart, both with the exact same motor mounts and identical failures.

And this is why we can never has a good discussion about anything to do with modern/ recent releases....these threads become so muddy, so murky, they ain’t worth a hoot to read.......you want to make a point about Postwar trains & RC cars??......that’s cool, and it’ll make an interesting thread, but this ain’t the thread to do it on.......it doesn’t take a rocket scientist to see even the OP says his own thread is so far off course!......

Pat

Gunrunner John,

Were you able to get that screw out?   The reason I ask, is that if it is a metal screw, you can use a small reverse tap, bolt removal kit.  But, if it is a plastic screw, I am not sure what anybody does to get one of those out.  Seems like you would have to drill a whole plastic screw out, ruining the hole threads, and then I don't see how anybody can rethread a plastic hole with taps.

Mannyrock

@Mannyrock posted:

Seems like you would have to drill a whole plastic screw out, ruining the hole threads, and then I don't see how anybody can rethread a plastic hole with taps.

I usually use a bit that is much smaller than the screw and try to drill straight down the center.  Then I pick out the remaining bits with a crochet hook.  

If the treads are ruined after that I fill it with epoxy and then after it cures drill a small pilot hole and then use a self tapping screw or a coarse threaded screw that is sharp enough to cut threads into the epoxy.  You could obviously tap it too if you have the a tap and die set.

@rplst8 posted:

I usually use a bit that is much smaller than the screw and try to drill straight down the center.  Then I pick out the remaining bits with a crochet hook.  

If the treads are ruined after that I fill it with epoxy and then after it cures drill a small pilot hole and then use a self tapping screw or a coarse threaded screw that is sharp enough to cut threads into the epoxy.  You could obviously tap it too if you have the a tap and die set.

Also, reverse drill bits work here too, most of the time, the reversing action,for me catches the screw just right, and spins it right out of the hole,...in any case, if it doesnt, I have tiny easy outs that will grip the hole made by the reverse bit....I’ll do whatever I can to make an undetectable repair...

Pat

Last edited by harmonyards

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