Question about DCS set up with Atlas track

just follow Barry's instructions in the O Gauge Companion?

Yes.

If you're concerned about Atlas rail joiners, solder all of the track joins.

I have three loops of Atlas track with DCS and used home run wiring - used Atlas joiners OK.

After testing - if you get a bad joint or two, just replace the joiners.

I wired my first layout before Barry's book came out.  I put a drop every 6 to 8 feet of track using the Atlas pre-wired rail joiners and had no issues on my two-level 5x14x9 layout.   

Bottom line, for best results follow Barry's instructions but if you can't for some reason other ways will work.

--Greg

Make sure you screw the track down. Rail joiners should the dimpled kind and should be tight enough that you need to wear gloves to push the pieces together. If I have a loose joiner I squeeze it from the sides until it collapses then pry back apart with a small flat head screw driver to get the gap right. With the track screwed down and tight rail joiners then track drops every 6 feet or so should be fine. For switches I solder a 16 gauge drop to each joiner on each rail of the switch (9 total). There are other options but that's what I prefer. Working with the Atlas switches and switch machines is a subject in itself but not a problem if you get good advice.

My layout is small with a whole bunch of switches and blocks and mostly bus wired. DCS works flawlessly. Signals are all 9-10 even at the switches. If sound quality is important to you then you'll really like Atlas track.

Luvtrains,

   If you decide to run Atlas, and you break your FasTrack layout down, let me know at Pine-Creek@live.com

I am always in the market for more FT CC switches that are in good shape.  Might take some track off your hands also.

PCRR/Dave

Use the dimpled rail joiners only, you will have no problems. I used a method devised by forum member Ingeniero No1 to connect power to the track, it works perfectly. It's from his build thread and the post dated May 1, 2011 9:06 AM. I was very happy I found and tried that before starting a permanent layout. Follow Barry's instructions for wiring your layout for DCS. I have had excellent results using these methods. I used OGR wire, #14 from TIU to MTH terminal blocks and #16 OGR wire from terminal block to track block. I have had no problems with any new switches. I have had some problems with used switches. Most problems were repaired with parts from Atlas and new switch machines. I have all modern diesels only, from 2011 or newer, mostly scale with a few Railking Imperials.

I was planning on using the Atlas #6924 non-derail boards, but have not needed them so far. From reading here I thought I was going to need special wiring to the switches, as mentioned above, when I started out. I ended up using no special wiring to any of my switches. The switch tracks are powered from what ever block they are attached to. This may have more to do with the type and size of engines you have than the switches or possibly even switch size? I have mostly O-54 switches with four O-72's. I am not really sure on that as all mine work well so far. I wired for DCS and added Legacy later, a simple one wire connection. Everything works very well so far, even better than the 2 or 3 small temporary layouts I had previously. DCS signal is almost always 10's all around both loops of track.

I also used Mianne bench work and have been very pleased with that as well. It was very easy, went together quickly and made a very nice table. I am planning an addition to it, hopefully in the next year or so. I also started out wanting to use Fastrack, I really like it, but the noise scared me off. I think I might consider keeping some for a temporary layout, if I had any. I have some RealTrax for that if needed, but I think I would rather have Fastrack. I am really very pleased with everything I have so far.

My layout uses atlas track consisting of 3 loops of 81", 72", and 63". The straights are 2 -40" straights. I used the atlas connectors and made sure all of the contacts were tight. I have 2 drops in between the 40" straights but am only using 1 set of the drops for now and do not have any power issues. Using a z1000 on 1 of the loops and have 3 lionel 180 watt bricks for the other 3 inputs.

Thank you all for your very, very helpful information to help me decide. Pine creek if I decide to go with the Atlas track I will contact you on selling my fastrack. Don't have CC fastrack switches..only remote.